Video of recommended thermal mod

[mshayanh13]

Can someone post a video of the recommended thermal mod mentioned in one of the posts?

[Chris G]

The recommend one would be my Cube i9 mod (basically the same setup on the i7)

 

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[tornado]

Good morning. Can you tell me wehere can i buy this materials for thermal mode? Sorry for my english. I’m italian and i don’t understand very well what he says in the video. Can you write me the list of materials and seller’s link? Thank you.

[Sing Along]

Not sure if I am doing it correctly,

I have added a 1mm thermal pad, about half the size of the heat sink and now the tablet, at running w prime, still reaches up to 87 degree.

And the backcasing becomes so hot that holding it more than 2 sec will cause a burn on the fingers. Thinking if putting an egg on it will actually cook it.

It totally defeats the purpose of a tablet if it can’t be held. Any advice?

 

Thanks

[waspinator]

My Attempt at following Chris’ mod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0peXuoUsxAc

Cube i7 Book Heat sink

Temperatures went down from 99 to 74 degrees when pushed to 100% CPU.

I used an X-Carve to cut the holes out and get to shape. http://easel.inventables.com/projects/2R4h5PlSHmCBQE9aRDvVIw

The screw marked in red (bottom left) wouldn’t engage because a component was in the way. I would cut out a section of copper to fix it if I were to do it again, but the three screws seem to work well enough. It’s also pressed against the back of the case.

The copper plates were 1mm thick, and so was the thermal pad. I used Kapton tape to insulate the heat sink on the side touching the motherboard, and silicon thermal plaster to attach the smaller heat sink to the larger one.

The back of the tablet gets fairly hot, making it uncomfortable to hold, but I have the faux leather case which helps keep the temperatures less noticeable.

After the mod I can physically feel that the screen is uneven, raised in the area of the heat sink. So far it hasn’t been much of an issue, besides being annoying. It might be a good idea to try and use thinner pieces of copper and thermal pad, or cutting out all the stock holes to have it sit further down.

[Piotr]

One question
Do you use some thermal glue between heatsink and 20mm pad? or it same paste as for CPU ?

[tornadofca]

Thank you.

[tornado]

Thank you Waspinator for your post. Please can you tell me if this items are good for thermal mode? Unfortunately i don’t have an X-Carve. How can i cut the holes and get to the shape?

10x10x1mm Thermal Conductive Heatsink Cooling Insulation Silicon Pad (to insulate the heat sink on the side touching the motherboard)

Metal Plate 1 mm * 10mm * 10mm

Metal Plate 1 mm * 100mm * 100mm

100mm*100mm*1mm Thermal Conductive Heatsink Cooling Insulation Silicon Pad (to cover larger heat sink on the side touching motherboard)

100mm*100mm*2mm Thermal Conductive Heatsink Cooling Insulation Silicon Pad (to cover larger heat sink on the back side)

Pasta Termica Termoconduttiva Arctic Cooling MX-4 4g ORACO-MX40001-BL (to attach the smaller heat sink to the larger one)

[waspinator]

@piotr.

To connect the to copper heat sinks together I used thermal silicon plaster / glue. This is different from thermal paste, which I used between the heat sink and the actual CPU.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10g-HC-910-Thermal-Conductive-Adhesive-Glue-Tube-Heatsink-Plaster-Silicone-New-/121717331933?hash=item1c56eb17dd

@tornado

I would not use a silicon pad to protect the motherboard from short circuits, because they are too thick. Look into getting Kapton tape or a clone of it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311575483296?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

My thermal pad was 1mm, and it seemed to work okay. I’m not sure if a 2mm pad will fit, as I did not try it. You want to get “plaster” or “glue” to connect the two heat sinks. And “paste” to connect the heat sink to the CPU.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCS-1g-High-Performance-GD900-Heat-Sink-Thermal-Compound-Grease-Paste-SSY1/251428100859?_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38636%26meid%3D09bff3c3f05b43ab90364b28a1eebaa2%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172146116151

To cut it to shape you can try to find a band saw. Miter saw or table saw could work as well. To get the holes cut, try using a a drill press (or hand drill, but it might turn out worse) and two sized drill bits to cut the counterbored holes. Drill the smaller size first, all the way through, and the use the larger one to go about half way down. This part can be tricky with a hand drill. Best to do the holes before cutting the copper to shape, since if you make a mistake, you can use the other side of the plate to try drilling again. If you look at my easle link you can see what sizes they need to be and where. 1.5mm and 2.8mm diameters.

The rest of your parts seem okay.

[tornado]

Ok Waspinator. Sorry for my english but i don’t understand very well. So i need:

Kapton tape to insulate the heat sink on the side touching the motherboard

Metal Plate 1 mm * 10mm * 10mm

Metal Plate 1 mm * 100mm * 100mm

Thermal silicon plaster/glue to connect the copper heat sinks together

Heat Sink Thermal Compound Grease Paste to connect the heat sink to the CPU (beetwen kapton tape and the smaller heat sink)

100mm*100mm*1mm Thermal Conductive Heatsink Cooling Insulation Silicon Pad to cover the back side of the larger heat sink (no thermal pad in the side of matherboard)

Can you tell me the exact position where i make the holes? I don’t understand what are this two numbers 1.5mm and 2.8mm diameters. Thank you very much.

[waspinator]

You seem to be mostly on track. You just have to make sure to cut away the Kapton tape on the smaller 10x10mm heat sink.  Kapton tape is not a good thermal conductor, so your heatsink won’t work with Kapton tape on the part touching the CPU. Look at my pictures above.

Look at the attached drawings. You have to use Adobe Reader to open the 3D one.

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[Piotr]

Waspinator, you wrote:

The screw marked in red (bottom left) wouldn’t engage because a component was in the way. I would cut out a section of copper to fix it if I were to do it again, but the three screws seem to work well enough. It’s also pressed against the back of the case.

Can you tell us which element and why was problematic ? And why Chris was able to screw on all 4 screws?

[waspinator]

@piotr

I’m not sure why I couldn’t get it to work. Maybe if I started with that screw It would have worked. The part I would recommend removing is shown in the attachments above (heatsink_2d.pdf). I’m not sure if that’s the only part you have to remove, but I think that should do it.

You can also try to use a 1.2x10x10mm small plate instead of a 1.0mm think one to get more clearance. Then just drill down into the counterbore hole a tiny bit more, or get longer screws to fit.

[Piotr]

I did full copper mod, but at the end of day it causes “oil” spot… digitzer started touch screen.
I’m now on recommended termalmod, so using orginal heatsink, 20×20 coper plate and batter quality terompad. It looks to be sufficient.

[Piotr]

For anyone who think this mod is easy… it’s not 🙂 It’s hard to count how many times my Book has been open …
Biggest issue for me were oil spots on screens, and as it turned out they were present even using orginal heatsink with glued coper plate…

Result of my work is handmade copper heatsink with all holes in it. Now oil spot is almost gone but still a bit visible. Anyway I’m not going to open it again, never… ;).(

If you are thinking about light mod, and you are aware how hard it’s open Book at first time, just put additional thermal pad on orginal heatsink, it will improve it a lot an probably don’t cause any screen “pushing” issues.

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