Goodix GT9110 or GT9110P?

[Ghee]

Chris G wrote:

None of my stylus pens seem to work on it. (Active ones) Dell pen and Teclast.

@Chris

Does your system properties show “Pen and Touch input with 10 touch points” or “Limited Touch Support with 10 touch points”

As confirmed by banggood your model chuwi hi12 first batch might have a different mainboard and touch digitizer and does not support pen input.

The one that I recently ordered which is the April batch shows my system properties as “Pen and Touch input with 10 touch points. I suspect that only the second batch of hi12 that are using the goodix GT9110P is supported by the teclast active pens.

[Chris G]

@worshishen Mine states: Touch Support with 10 touch points

@hustoles Yes I have this exact pen, I will test it on my Dual OS Hi12 when it arrives

 

 

Chris | Admin
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Ordered and waiting for my: BMAX S15 & Teclast F6 Plus
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[Rene]

I opened up mine to solve my unstable wifi, (windows 10 version) and had a peek at the touch hardware; it was covered with a kaptop tape with a large X, when taking of the kapton tape, it revealed the GT9110.
This confirms the change in hardware. I didn’t had a camera at hand, so you must take my word for it.

 

I opened up mine to solve my unstable wifi, (windows 10 version) and had a peek at the touch hardware; it was covered with a kaptop tape with a large X, when taking of the kapton tape, it revealed the GT9110.
This confirms the change in hardware. I didn’t had a camera at hand, so you must take my word for it.

WiFi is doing fine now; There where a few things wrong;  the wire was hard-pressed on a capacitor on the mainboard, damaging the isolation, and the antenna itself was damaged by a notch from  a clamping mechanism on the shell (acting like a scissor, biting two pieces from the antenna) I soldered them together again and routed the cable correctly, covering it with kapton tpe. Since a long cable is used for wifi, i also took some isolation from the  outer core, and hooked it up to the GND using conducive tape. (the back of the LCD is GND)

Result! First I didn’t get anything above 15mbit/sec and upstairs it was as low as 2mbit/s, it’s now showing a 30-40mbit/sec and a decent 8-15mbit/sec upstairs. I notice no difference with bluetooth enabled or disabled.
I’m using a router with DD-WRT firmware, so I can monitor the quality of the signal; there is no drop in quality when BT is enabled.

Sorry for the lack of picture. Getting the ‘creak’ out of the shell is easy too, just use some thin double-sided tape or thin foam (i used the latter) Just put it on some strategic points. It feels way better/more solid when it’s not creaking.. 🙂
Opening the tablet; T4 torx, and I used a guitar pick-like (the thick blue ones with a thin edge)
when holding the tablet in landscape position, like you would normally use it, start in the right upper part., work your way to the upper left, then through the left, (where the mainboard is located) to about the half of it. Now start to open the right side to the bottom. lift the right side gently from the rear, the left bottom side will now unhook and you can just take it apart. (no wires)
When assembling it, be careful with the bottom docking plug. It protrudes the shell, so it needs to be put in place first. And be careful with the volume rocker/on-off button on top. it just snaps back together.
Result! First I didn’t get anything above 15mbit/sec and upstairs it was as low as 2mbit/s, it’s now showing a 30-40mbit/sec and a decent 8-15mbit/sec upstairs. I notice no difference with bluetooth enabled or disabled.

I’m using a router with DD-WRT firmware, so I can monitor the quality of the signal; there is no drop in quality when BT is enabled.

Sorry for the lack of picture. Getting the ‘creak’ out of the shell is easy too, just use some thin double-sided tape or thin foam (i used the latter) Just put it on some strategic points. It feels way better/more solid when it’s not creaking.. 🙂

Opening the tablet; T4 torx, and I used a guitar pick-like (the thick blue ones with a thin edge)

when holding the tablet in landscape possition, like you would normally use it, start in the right upper part., work your way to the upper left, then through the left, (where the mainboard is located) to about the half of it. Now start to open the right side to the bottom. lift the right side gently from the rear, the left bottom side will now unhook and you can just take it apart. (no wires)
When assembling it, be carefull with the bottom docking plug. It protrudes the shell, so it needs to be put in place first. And be carefull with the volume rocker/on-off button on top. it just snaps back together.

 

[Marc]

To be honest, it’s almost a crime that you hid your post in this chip-asking thread.

It’s worth at least 2 threads, one about fixing wifi problems and onother about opening the case and fixing creaks.

Hope you appreciate this clumsy compliment ‘;-)

 

[Anonymous]

Thank you very much Rene! I think it’s clear now that chuwi (probably) changed from the GT9110 to the GT9110P.
Seems chuwi has some serious quality issues. Chinese have always been very bad at quality control. (they just produce at high speed most of the time)

I think I’ll be returning my tablet to swap it for the newer dual boot version. I am still very annoyed by the high frequency sound at 0-25% brightness….
Since only a few also have this issue, I think it’s a small batch problem with the motherboards components.

[Rene]

LOL! Too funny Marc. Perhaps you are right, but since I didn’t shoot any pics I think it’s pretty worthless to the most of us. Perhaps I’m obliged to open it up again and shoot some pics.

About the sound; mine is suffering from it as well. I think it depends on the temperature of the motherboard/hardware; sometimes it’s silent at 25% and sometimes I hear it. Mine suffers from it too. I switched it on, with the back off; it’s a tiny coil that’s reproducing the sound from my observation. (must be the switchin frequency that’s audible through a resonance of that coil) I ran a simple RTA measurement on my (i)phone (the nowadays used mics are pretty good in terms of linearity) It shows the frequency is about 14/15khz (not too accurate, I’m using an Audio Technica app that’s freeware with a relative course 30band representation of the audio-spektrum) I could do a better measurement, but it’s obvious it’s there. It’s producing roughly 17db of that annoying sound. (with a fully assembled enclosure) (noise floor I pick up on the phone is about 15db on that particular frequency), so it shows a 32db. (not calibrated in any way)

Since it’s (most likely) that coil (hard to determine the location of the sound, even with the back off) it might help to get a drop of thin CA glue on it and use some accelerator to shut it up for good.

The bad thing is; during the day I like it to run at 50%, with relative more noise. At night, I tend to run it at 0-9% (most quite time of the day) and I hear that beep.. It’s like watching a CRT monitor with a high level of white in the image. Brings me back a few years in history.

[Anonymous]

The thing is that I have a very good reason now to return the tablet so they can swap it for a dual boot with stylus support. (or at least I hope they will)
And opening up the tablet will void the warranty. :/

With my spectrum analyser the frequency was 12kHz(exact) and I haven’t seen the sound change with temperature. (haven’t tested it in such a way)
It’s just very, very annoying as I use it a lot at 0% when watching series in the dark.

It’s a coil (without a doubt) that’s producing this noise. Glue could solve the problem, but I think the problem will always be there, just a little less when the glue is added for noise absorption. The probably have forgotten some capacitor or have the wrong value so it doesn’t filter the noise. And it’s actually very stupid to use 12kHz on a motherboard, 24Khz should also not be a problem. It could also be a resistor that “selects” the frequency.(part of a resonator circuit)

[Author]

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