Tagged: Cube i7 book charge
September 19, 2016 at 1:33 pm #50179
I’ve had an i7 book for about 3 weeks and have overall been pretty happy about it, more so since the keyboard finally arrived!
However I’ve hit a snag with charging – despite little to no wear (it hasn’t even left my house yet!) the power jack no longer makes a proper connection – if I push the cable towards the back of the screen it will charge properly, otherwise the light remains off
Is this something I can fix myself internally? I’m pretty certain it’s the socket and not the cable that’s at fault.
In the meantime, I bought an iVoler 75w usb c charger with power delivery as it was recommended on here, and an ivoler cable that claims to achieve 5v/3a just like the charger. It arrived today, but doesn’t appear to be charging the device, with no red light and no change to the battery icon in Windows. My phone (standard mini usb) charges fine – and fast. There is a slight buzz when touching part of the case while the USB C cable is attached, so something is definitely being delivered..
I’ve ordered a second usb c cable,from Anker which specifically says Power Delivery on it which might cure my woes – but I was wondering if anybody had any clever ideas on what I can do in the meantime? I don’t really want to return the device to China after such a long wait, but I’m concerned the ports might all be a bit dodgy. Any thoughts?September 19, 2016 at 7:22 pm #50192LikoumParticipant
- Posts: 68
it is normal that the device does not charge on 5V, it will only charge through the USB-C port @12V wich a mini USB cannot deliver. So you will have to wait for a USB-C to USB-C cable to charge your device (I do not recommend you to open your device to fix your power plug)September 19, 2016 at 7:33 pm #50193
Thanks, but it is actually a USB C – USB C cable, not a mini usb, connected to the 75w iVoler charger recommended on this forum. The mini usb was to my phone just to check the iVoler was giving a charge.
I actually misread it – the side of the charger states it will provide 5V 3A, 9V 3A, 15V 3A and 20V 3A through the Type C plug – not sure why it doesn’t say 12v.September 20, 2016 at 12:25 pm #50246
So the Anker cable and Ivoler charger work well – just don’t buy an ivoler cable!
Unfortunately on my device there must be an alignment issue between the case and the board as the usb C socket is also temperamental, though much better than the 12v jack. It’ll be ok for now but I expect i’ll need to open it at some point if it continues to be a problem. A shame to pack so much kit in a small package at a nice price, but to be let down by something so fundamental as a power connection!September 25, 2016 at 5:27 pm #50569Andrew WParticipant
- Posts: 95
12v is not a part of the USB PD spec. sooo it’s possible it’s charging at 9V or msybe 15. Powerelectronicsblog on Youtube made the point snd tested the previous model the original core M 5y i7 now he tested the minimum charging voltsge… it was a little under 9V… Which made sense ie 2x 4.2 V lithium packs =8.4v
Anyway do you have a multimeter to check the output voltage of your charger?September 30, 2016 at 8:25 am #52117Kassandra KaplanParticipant
- Posts: 2
I am having the exact issues right now. If I would push the 12 volt barrel connector backwards, it would charge. At least for a while, eventually it would not charge at all. I tried two different 12 volt supplies, the stock charger and another, both deliver a bit over 12 volts without a load and my supply I had recently tested at 5 amp, rated to 6.
I removed the case to look the pins on the jack. It seems on has broken loose. It is the pin next to screen printed “1”. I attached a photo*. I have not tried make a repair yet, but pushing the pin against the joint didn’t seem to help. Also have not tried bypassing the jack with a bench top supply either.
It maybe be that voltage is not the only factor the charge protection circuit is preventing the battery charging even if it detects a plug. It may not like any noise or other factors. Also if putting a plug in a jack connecting just 2 ground pins or 2 positive that could complete a sense circuit, but not having all the sense circuit triggered would tell the computer it’s not safe to charge.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.October 6, 2016 at 1:27 am #53013Kassandra KaplanParticipant
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Update for those that are interested. I soldered the sheared pin. This fixed the problem for a short time. The way the jack stands so proud of the jack allows a good amount of leverage on the back to pins. A soldering job alone didn’t solve the problem, the solder joint broke testing the connection.
I ended up adding a bit of epoxy to reinforce the connection between the PCB and the jack. I also added a small bit between the jack and the case. My thinking being to lock down movement around the jack. Epoxies have a high operating temperature and are pretty solid without being brittle. I took care not to cover anything that would be conducting electricity so that they could dissipate heat. I attached a modified image version of my last image to give a better idea of what I did. This repair has been working well for several days with a bit of rough handling to test it out.
A bit of reinforcement at the jack might be a good idea if you want to rely on the DC jack and you are doing the thermal mod or have the case open anyway. Otherwise, you might want to consider a 90 degree barrel adapter or something that doesn’t stick out so much. Particularly, if it gets any abuse at all. If you need to push your cable back to get it to register it is a sign that one of the DC jack pins has come loose or has entirely broken free.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.October 6, 2016 at 7:53 am #53058
Thanks, that will come in useful if I need to open it up!
For my part USB-C has more or less solved the issue, though I still intermittently have times where it refuses to charge despite everything being plugged in. I know USB-C plugs should be fine either way in, but I swear it charges more often one way round than the other. For now, unplugging each link (charger to wall, charger to cable, cable to laptop) and reinserting seems to fix it, but it is frustrating when you realise it hasn’t been charging, you’re now on 5% power and unplugging + replugging it in doesn’t seem to make a difference.April 20, 2017 at 12:16 am #65714RafaelParticipant
- Posts: 17
The conectors in the left side of the tablet are all a little too long in distance to connect, so I slice half milimeter of the plastic protecting the metalic end of the cable and it plugs much better.April 20, 2017 at 9:30 am #65729KatagiriParticipant
- Posts: 273
Mine charges only if I plug the USB C cable on the charger first and on it after.May 5, 2017 at 6:46 am #66538JayParticipant
- Posts: 14
… I soldered the sheared pin. This fixed the problem for a short time. The way the jack stands so proud of the jack allows a good amount of leverage on the back to pins. A soldering job alone didn’t solve the problem, the solder joint broke testing the connection. I ended up adding a bit of epoxy to reinforce the connection between the PCB and the jack. I also added a small bit between the jack and the case. …
Thanks, that worked! Soldering-only got me the same results, which had me very unhappy considering the TINY connectors that had me struggling to get the solder to stick, but with some patience and fiddling I managed to get it done (I suggest a flat-head tip for the soldering pen). ?
I did however skip the epoxy between the case and plug in case I ever need to reopen it again (which considering this was already the 4th time, is probable)…
And now to see if I can get the touchscreen fixed (only works with pen atm). ?May 23, 2017 at 6:45 am #67345natiParticipant
- Posts: 2
iv’e had the same problem, with the same “1” pin. my friend helped me soldering that pin and charging works now…
i think i’ll buy a type-c pd charger, just in case it would happen again…May 23, 2017 at 11:29 pm #67370KatagiriParticipant
- Posts: 273
iv’e had the same problem, with the same “1” pin. my friend helped me soldering that pin and charging works now… i think i’ll buy a type-c pd charger, just in case it would happen again…
I bought a 5 port Anker and it works pretty well.February 21, 2019 at 9:01 pm #150552DamianParticipant
- Posts: 1
Hi, I soldered the pin and it fixed the issue, also I got a YOLOCK 60w PD wich worked for 5 or 6 days, Now it does not charge the tablet anymore, tomorow will test if there is an issue with the usb-c, because the charger still works on others devices.
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