TechTablets › Forums › Jumper Discussion › EZBook series › EzBook 3 Plus heatsink mod
Tagged: ezbook 3 plus
- This topic has 25 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 11 months ago by
Francesco.
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June 26, 2018 at 11:47 am #144184
Sooo…
How did it go with just connecting the lid with the cooper sink?
Am intrested in doing just thatJune 26, 2018 at 8:51 pm #144191Holy shit, did I have a lot of fun with this.
Basically, either it was my fault or the standard 20x20x1 sized shim doesn’t work with the heatsink shroud on this laptop. Whenever I used one of those, the laptop just flat out refused to boot. I then tried several different sizes over the course of a few weeks. 20x20x0.5 and 15x15x1 worked but both caused occasional cold boots. Eventually I installed a 20x20x0.8 and that seems to do the job beautifully.
Unfortunately they’re a slightly harder size to come by so you may need to wait several weeks for delivery from a Chinese seller or cut one to size yourself. Personally I’d recommend the former, simpler yet slower option. They’re cheap though. I think I paid around $1.50 for 10.
June 27, 2018 at 8:32 pm #144207Damn that’s enough to scare me out. Anyway I was just thinking how much does it help to put a thermal pad between the heatsink and the bottom of the laptop and for some details if anyone has done that
June 27, 2018 at 9:37 pm #144210Not a great deal tbh. I tried that and it didn’t do much at all. Changing the thermal paste to something better than the standard stuff would help more but if you’re going to do that then you might as well just go ahead and copper mod it.
Honestly it’s not that dangerous especially since I just told you exactly which size of copper shim to go for. This would do the job perfectly.
July 6, 2018 at 12:52 am #144368Anyway I was just thinking how much does it help to put a thermal pad between the heatsink and the bottom of the laptop and for some details if anyone has done that
I’ve put a small piece of a 1.5 mm thick thermal pad into the grove of the heatsink (the place it contacts CPU) and it lowered the temps by 10-15 degrees under the stress load. I’m using the mprime app to do stress tests.
Before the upgrade it was rocketing to 100 degrees almost immediately and then started to throttle and decrease temp to 60-65 degrees. After the mod it only goes up to ~85 degrees (90 degrees if repeat tests within a short period of time), but then, slightly later than before the mod, again starts to throttle.
85 degrees is better than 100, but I still unhappy about this. I’m thinking about replacing a thin thermalpad between the CPU and the heatsink with thermalpaste and using 2mm thermalpad between the sink and the bottom instead of a 1.5mm one, because it feels that the pressure and contact is not strong enough.
July 7, 2018 at 3:37 pm #144389Sorry for the late reply.
In the end i added a new high quality thermal pad between the coreM and the heatsink and another one to connect the heatsink to the backplate.
I saw really nice gains, and now it stabilizes at around 75-80C while gaming with the standard 7W power limit.
Sadly for gaming the stock 7w power limit makes the (power limit) throttling kick in rather often; raising it to 10W solves the issue, i’ve registered no additional gains by going over 10W. Sadly at 10W the laptop will slowly climb to 85+ temperatures so i’ve bough a cheap cooling pad, which keeps temps at around 70C even with the most intensive tasks
July 7, 2018 at 3:41 pm #144390<p style=”text-align: left;”>Can you please give us the link for that cooling pad? It sounds very good</p>
July 7, 2018 at 5:55 pm #144395In the end i added a new high quality thermal pad between the coreM and the heatsink and another one to connect the heatsink to the backplate.
How thick they are?
BTW, I have a crazy idea: get rid of the heatsink and put a thick thermal pad directly between the CPU and the back cover. The only thing which is worrying me is that the heatsink has isolation. But I don’t think it is possible to short something by a back cover.
July 7, 2018 at 8:32 pm #144398With the copper shim mine maxes out at around 60 degrees.
I wouldn’t recommend running the laptop without the heatsink shield as that is what enables the chipset to be sufficiently passively cooled and, as you say, electrically isolated. It also helps to keep static and dust away from the board.
July 12, 2018 at 1:03 pm #144480<p style=”text-align: left;”>Can you please give us the link for that cooling pad? It sounds very good</p>
In the end i added a new high quality thermal pad between the coreM and the heatsink and another one to connect the heatsink to the backplate.
How thick they are? BTW, I have a crazy idea: get rid of the heatsink and put a thick thermal pad directly between the CPU and the back cover. The only thing which is worrying me is that the heatsink has isolation. But I don’t think it is possible to short something by a back cover.
1mm. Thermal pads actually insulate quite a bit, it’s not worth putting a really thick layer
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