Finished my Mod but temp still odd

[Aleksandr]

Do you remove original thermal pad from CPU?
I make this: remove thermal pad, thermalpast, 20 mm copper, thermalglue, original aluminium heatsink, slice of thermalpad. I receive 68°C max(100% CPU, 2 hours testing).

[Benjiro]

Yes, the old thermal pad is gone. Its some cheap and not very efficient pad. There is a clear issue given your temp and mine. Its better then default because it does not hit over 90°C but clearly its not good.

Oeps … Now that you mention it…

CPU/GPU -> ThermalPast -> 15 mm Copper -> [ What is missing here?] -> Alu plate -> 7W ThermalPad ( double stack on the hole and some next to it ).

There is no thermal past between the copper & the alu. Totally forgot about it. Also going to try some other thermal past, i think the one i used is too old ( it was very sticky, difficult to spread out.

Going to try to add cheaper 3W thermal pad that covers the whole Alu plate, instead of just concentrated on the CPU/GPU area. Think this is also creating a issue.

Will try if i can open it up again. Really not great for the heart 🙂

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On a side note: Reinstalling Windows 10 Pro = works perfectly. I prefer a clean OS ( to be sure there is no spy soft ). The only issue was the wacom driver, the default in the driver pack from TechTablets did not work.

http://us.wacom.com/en/feeldriver/

This one works perfectly. A few components ( camera’s and some intel stuff ) needed extra drivers but for the rest the Windows 10 Pro Anniversary found everything.

[Benjiro]

Yesterday opened up my Book and only one of the thermal pads was making contact with the back side ( so only around 25x25mm ). So that explains the drop in temperature but the lack of large temp drops.

My plan has changed to make the following mod:

Going to install liquid metal for the contact past: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Wärmeleitpaste
And also ordered 20mm copper plate because the 15mm really leaves 2mm on the sides not exposed.

So my build will be:

1. CPU/GPU
2. Liquid metal ( with thermal pads around the cpu/gpu cores to prevent overflow until its burned in )
3. 20mm x 20mm copper / 1mm
4. Maybe some past ( not metal liquid, forgot that burns Alu *lol* ).
5. Aluminium Plate
6. 15mm copper inside the depression ( if possible ).
7. Big 3W thermal pad over the whole Alu plate + 7W on the center. More equal divided this time so less pressure and better contract.

Think that will do it. 😉

[Benjiro]

Finished up the reworked mod as described above. Temperatures get at max 78°C with burn in tests ( and a warmer room then the previous 90°C tests ). Temperature is much more spread out over the backplate. So the results are very good.

The bad news … cracked the glass when putting the back plate on. Yay! Small 5cm crack running near the front camera area, down. Seems to be on the “glass”, not the actual screen / digitizer. So yea… I hate how the back plate is hard to remove / deal with. This mod needed to have been done out of factory, not by end users. But yea… its a 250€ tablet. Not end of the world, only makes reselling in the future a issue.

[Author]

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