October 6, 2016 at 11:30 am #53234
Got my i7 Book last week and finally upgraded the SSD to 256GB.
At the same time did a thermal mod: ( thermalpast ) + 15mm copper / Alu Cover / and some 7W thermal pad. When doing benches with XTU the CPU alone pushes the temp to 90°C. While the back cover is hot and clearly heat spreading better then before, i am amazed that its still hitting 90°C for the CPU test and 88°C for the GPU test. Normal room temp, the temp is 40°C ( 20°C room temp ). Its a far cry from some of the other mod’s.
Think i need to open up and redo the mod it because the difference is way too high compared to other people there results.
Extra Note: Slightly damaged my screen when removing the cover. That ding was close to impossible to open. The glass came slightly loos near where the power buttons are. You can feel that the glass is like 0.5mm edging out of the corner ( or my mod is putting pressure on the glass ).October 6, 2016 at 11:36 am #53239AleksandrParticipant
- Posts: 11
Do you remove original thermal pad from CPU?
I make this: remove thermal pad, thermalpast, 20 mm copper, thermalglue, original aluminium heatsink, slice of thermalpad. I receive 68°C max(100% CPU, 2 hours testing).October 6, 2016 at 11:50 am #53248
Yes, the old thermal pad is gone. Its some cheap and not very efficient pad. There is a clear issue given your temp and mine. Its better then default because it does not hit over 90°C but clearly its not good.
Oeps … Now that you mention it…
CPU/GPU -> ThermalPast -> 15 mm Copper -> [ What is missing here?] -> Alu plate -> 7W ThermalPad ( double stack on the hole and some next to it ).
There is no thermal past between the copper & the alu. Totally forgot about it. Also going to try some other thermal past, i think the one i used is too old ( it was very sticky, difficult to spread out.
Going to try to add cheaper 3W thermal pad that covers the whole Alu plate, instead of just concentrated on the CPU/GPU area. Think this is also creating a issue.
Will try if i can open it up again. Really not great for the heart 🙂
On a side note: Reinstalling Windows 10 Pro = works perfectly. I prefer a clean OS ( to be sure there is no spy soft ). The only issue was the wacom driver, the default in the driver pack from TechTablets did not work.
This one works perfectly. A few components ( camera’s and some intel stuff ) needed extra drivers but for the rest the Windows 10 Pro Anniversary found everything.October 7, 2016 at 12:46 pm #54416
Yesterday opened up my Book and only one of the thermal pads was making contact with the back side ( so only around 25x25mm ). So that explains the drop in temperature but the lack of large temp drops.
My plan has changed to make the following mod:
Going to install liquid metal for the contact past: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Wärmeleitpaste
And also ordered 20mm copper plate because the 15mm really leaves 2mm on the sides not exposed.
So my build will be:
- Liquid metal ( with thermal pads around the cpu/gpu cores to prevent overflow until its burned in )
- 20mm x 20mm copper / 1mm
- Maybe some past ( not metal liquid, forgot that burns Alu *lol* ).
- Aluminium Plate
- 15mm copper inside the depression ( if possible ).
- Big 3W thermal pad over the whole Alu plate + 7W on the center. More equal divided this time so less pressure and better contract.
Think that will do it. 😉October 11, 2016 at 9:59 pm #54690
Finished up the reworked mod as described above. Temperatures get at max 78°C with burn in tests ( and a warmer room then the previous 90°C tests ). Temperature is much more spread out over the backplate. So the results are very good.
The bad news … cracked the glass when putting the back plate on. Yay! Small 5cm crack running near the front camera area, down. Seems to be on the “glass”, not the actual screen / digitizer. So yea… I hate how the back plate is hard to remove / deal with. This mod needed to have been done out of factory, not by end users. But yea… its a 250€ tablet. Not end of the world, only makes reselling in the future a issue.
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