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I had that for about 8 hours. The tablet just shut off, windows said it had 40% battery left. I plugged it in, and tried to boot into android, it just hung there, saying android over and over, never went into the OS. Then I tried to go into windows, bluescreen, acpi bios error, over and over, I tried to recover, would get part way, then blue screen. I tried to re-image the android side, didn’t help, still boot looped. Thought the tablet was f***ed up for good. The I read in these forums about a guy who got into windows recovery, selected command prompt in the advanced options, made a usb bootable windows 10 drive. went into the windows 10 drive in the command prompt and wrote setup.exe and the windows installation starts. So that is what I did, took about 5 times booting up into windows repair. I formatted the entire drive in windows setup, all the partitions, and re-installed windows 10….
Everything works awesome now, I have the highest score on the performance test out of any teclast.
Here is what I did, its from the first forum posting at the very top, on page 3, the guy only had one post – pm was his name- and it saved my booty:
I have successfully re-imaged my X98 Pro several times and here’s some things I ran into:
I first downloaded the latest Win10 version 1511 from Microsoft via the “media creation tool” from here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 (note you don’t pick a version anymore – it’s just “Windows 10” and the OS automatically loads the “Home” version with no key needed)
This was important as Microsoft automatically layers the new version over the old via Update – and that’s bad.
I then used the “Win 7 DVD creator” tool from here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/windows-usb-dvd-download-tool
to create a bootable USB image.
Ensure the device is fully charged.
Connecting a USB hub with a mouse, keyboard, and the USB image (note the drive letter before continuing) I used Advanced Recovery options to boot to Command Line Recovery (from the factory image – /All Settings / Update and Security/ Recovery / Advanced Recovery / (auto restart) /Troubleshoot / Command Line)
Change directories back to X:\ then type in D:\setup.exe (if your USB is “D”) – this boots into full setup (though you may need a magnifying glass)
I tried install several different ways, and the Command Line method is the only one that worked flawlessly for me.
Set up via “Custom” install. When you get to the partition options, if you want to keep Android, Windows is on the 3 partitions at the bottom of the list just above “Recovery” (on mine – should be the same for all). There is also another 100mb “System” partition further up that one can delete – but make sure you know what folders Windows creates on a new install so you don’t delete the wrong one. I deleted the four Windows related partitions, created a new one with setup (primary and 3 system) and installed fresh with no problems. You can also just install over the 23 GB “primary” partition without deleting or formatting anything, but I always like to let a new operating system create its own partitions (primarily for the system and MSR partitions content).
I then decided I didn’t want Android so I re-did the above steps, deleted all partitions, and created new Windows only partitions with setup. This also worked no problem, and is functioning very well. I always do installations offline.
Install the drivers before connecting or updating – I first ran the “.bat” file from the Teclast pack (copied onto a different USB drive inserted into the hub after Windows install finished). Note: I found the Teclast Driver Pack does not contain the driver for the camera sensor ov5648. It is only in the “Driver Double” pack. I just unzipped that and added the ov5648 driver folder to the Teclast pack and installed via driver update from the Device Manager. One could also utilize Driver Double initially, though there are other content differences. You also need to go to the “camera fix” post and get that to ensure the cameras function properly.
After ensuring all drivers were present (no “unknown devices”) I manually updated the Display Adapter first (online, “Automatically Search” through Device Manager) as there is a new version (20) that Windows Update will not load. Then I ran Windows Update. I always reboot after SW changes even if not prompted. I do still get the dual-boot menu – the BIOS is not “remembering” my “boot directly to windows” selection, but hopefully that will change as the post above indicated.
Optionally, I then ran Driver Booster to check my driver versions, and almost all needed updating. Windows does not do this automatically via update (properly anyway).
Then tutto bene!
I don’t know how it relates to general performance for others (my evidence is anecdotal), but I always “customize settings” during the Windows installation (not using “Express), and turn off everything. I then extensively configure / uninstall my apps and options to minimize what is running. I don’t use any of the “Metro” apps. I like the “Autoruns” program from Microsoft Sysinternals to minimize what starts automatically – but you need to understand what you’re doing with that. I also configure the Firewall settings to block connectivity to Windows apps I don’t use or have uninstalled. It is valuable to go through all the Settings, and also through everything on the Control Panel to get things “right”. I find myself using the old-style interfaces to configure events (ie right-click menu, choose System, click on “change advanced settings” and do things for that there). There are some events in Win 10 that are just not available (or impossible to find) in the new All Settings interface.
I re-image all my devices as I’ve never been happy with any initial configuration (Android or Windows), and the above is gleaned from a lot of trial and error and research. I hope the info is helpful. I am amazed by how awesome my X98 Pro is now – makes my 1yr old Onda v102 seem like the stone-age
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