TechTablets › Forums › Cube Forums › iwork8 Ultimate / iwork8 Air Discussion › new cube iwork8 dual boot flashing and language setting walkthrough
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December 19, 2016 at 10:28 am #58930
new cube iwork8 dual boot flashing and language setting walkthrough
I flashed this cube iwork8 ult i1-t with the newest dualboot firmware I found on the site. I’m using two usb drives, the OTG adapter that came with the cube, and optionally a USB hub and keyboard if we _don’t_ modify our scripts. this can be done with only one thumb drive, but two is quicker and nice if you want to try something again later. maybe silly, but I wanted to show how to change the language so how cool the thing is in case anybody might have missed it.
decompressed we have three directories, one for bios, one for windows 10 and one for android-ia — the translated guide document is quite right. there are a few catches tho
the bios can be upgraded independantly but has to run from windows — there are included efi programs but we’re not going there — and if you flash an incorrect bios, say i1-tc, don’t be suprised if it does flash but things are broke, like no graphics and strange digitizer coordinates. then it’d be time to find a micro-hdmi cable and a usb keyboard to boot and reflash
flashing android will remove any knowledge of windows — this is okay because I wanted to flash android to the latest available release for my device, and we shouldn’t have to worry about having to flash android very often now should we?
I did try to flash from micro sd so I could have the charging cable plugged in the cube. it didn’t work and I’m not playing in the bios for too much longer. also, let’s be mindful of battery charge (between obvious sections)
the usb can be setup from tablet, but I downloaded the new firmware to my computer. with usb in, winkey > type ‘cmd’ > right click > run as admin and confirm. we’re in an elevated windows command prompt — time to partition and format the drives to spec and copy our install files (later, we could do some dragging-and-dropping, but I’d rather not)
there are a few optional but easy mods to the installation scripts — if we don’t want to use an external keyboard, and therefore usb hub to also read our udisk, we’re going to need to modify a script used in installing windows 10. (note, usb hub wasn’t easy — a cable that was micro on one end and standard usb-a on the other would not transfer information between hub and tablet. I had to use a usb-a to usb-a cable and the cube-included otg adapter. either something about micro usb I never noticed or maybe the cube using usb3 chip mode for even usb2 transfers, so therefore the quality of cable)
mod follows-
cubefirmwaredirectory\win10\scripts\main.cmd (the longer named main??cmd script next to it is not used during installation .. try manufacturing/testing)
one command on it’s own line — “pause”. (after the line “call diskpart /s x:\Android_Partition_Hidden_LHH.txt”, so line 126 for me. if anyone cares for a similar model, check for others). this command stops execution of script and asks user to press a key before continuing
either delete the line out, or change it to “rem pause”.
that’s it. the firmware provided windows install interface does not respond to touch screen, so it’s that or a hub and keyboard and cable issues. to making our udisks..
assuming our system drive is c, firmware file is unzipped to a directory (say c:\cubefw, with it’s three subdirs and a doc file), and we’ve renamed main directories in foreign symbols in file explorer (giant archive downloaded might be, and the android directory inside it most likely is.. rename it say, androidia). let’s do this:
cd \cubefw
diskpart
list disk
select disk <#>(replace angle brackets and # with the number of the drive that represents your USB drive, the size listed is the hint .. for me, disk 1, system is 0)
clean
convert gpt
create partition primary
format fs=fat32 label=ANDROIDIA quick
list volumes (see the drive letter that is now assigned to our new file system, I’m saying G)
exit
back at the command prompt now, let’s copy the android fimware over:
xcopy /e/h c:\cubefw\androidia g:\
let that run, takes a while .. when done, go to system tray and safely remove the hardware.
next, make the windows 10 udisk, very similar:
diskpart
list disk
select disk 1
clean
convert gpt
create partition primary
format fs=ntfs label=WINPE quick (**this one uses ntfs filesystem and the label is per the firmware instructions)
list volumes (might say H this time)
exit
at command prompt:
xcopy /e/h c:\cubefw\win10 h:\
and let that run — safely remove.
those are your two udisk thumb drives. it’s important these drives are partitioned with a gpt partition table. it’s not typical to want to do this, in fact sd cards are bought as and suggested to later be formatted standard mbr, and filesystem fat32 — and that way, most devices will see them and it’s also easier on the devices.
again, this can be done with one drive. you’d install android first, then make and install windows udisk — works just fine, you’ll see
there’s another optional thing we can do to our install media that we might ought to — if you browse the windows udisk (or the orginal directory before making the udisk) and go to scripts\recovery\oem and delete the two directories “lnk” (ell, short for link) and “video”. they’re little branded intro videos in chinese I guess that take up about a half a gig. they’d also reappear if you ever tell windows to reset itself. scripts will pass over the non-existent copies.
now if you’ve backed up any information it’s time to head towards flashing
I’ll refer to the system setup with it’s blue menus as bios — to get this cube to bios, hold volume up while turned off and press power for a few moments to start turning on, and then release power. once you’re in bios you can release volume up
there _is_ touch sense and navigation is possible but no typing without a keyboard attached. on bottom right area there is a list of keys to press for advanced navigation — the main one is exit, and it’s the last word, exit, and it’s big e that matters — when we’re in a config submenu we need exit to go back one
surely haven’t messed with your bios settings, but the restore defaults does restore defaults to your specific model’s defaults
of top row menus, we want advanced > system component > os image id. we’re going to manually change this when we want to boot something specific early off. the system changes this when it needs to and this is really the only thing you’ll ever need to mess with
now, with android udisk in otg adapter and connected to charged tablet, get in to bios and change os image id to the android option. exit to most main menu and then over to the top “save and exit” tab. hit save .. and really activate it not just select it, it offers confirmation box. on that same menu the bottom options are to bypass any boot preferences for devices and boot managers.
we’re going to select boot to uefi shell — and make sure it goes, cause when it does it will just go — if it doesn’t, exit bios and enter again, check image that id is still android and now the boot to eufi shell option should work fine
shell runs, don’t interrupt the short timeout to bypass startup.nsh, and the android firmware will start flashing. from now on it will not boot to shell and will start using it’s new android installation and boot manager. in fact the android upgrade should reboot twice, pausing at our dual boot menu with a one android option, which you can hurry, before getting our android is unpacking himself animation
another boot through dual choice and a high tech oriental logo and some behind the scenes action before .. welcome to android. quick notes:
wake past welcome screen, bottom right blue OK box to assert you know how to launch apps, and then to change the language …
apps > settings > globe > first option (language and input) > language and dialect (english, here)
(in keyboard and input methods you’ll see the spell checker and keyboard. they’re called ‘google aosp’. android open source project, pretty much an “older” stock version of those softwares included in firmware that will not be upgraded by play store, so actually go download google keyboard.)
maybe I was in a hurry, but the language change stopped my device. so after 3 or so minutes I hard powered down by holding power button for 10 or so seconds. next boot up was quick as can be and in english. symbols are complicated and I dono if chinese is right to left, but I’m so happy with the android flash. done.
next up, windows. again, deciding between the simple script mod or usb hub/keyboard combo, we’ll boot to bios, change os image id to windows 10, insert udisk, and THEN save and exit.
windows takes a while longer than android, but rebooted itself and continued the installation from internal storage. setting up drivers and such, I left the udisk connected because windows might have it open read/write and I don’t want to corrupt the data in case I need to flash again.
admittedly I stepped away for several minutes and there might have been a reboot here but I came back to the windows desktop. flash instructions say to wait for an oobe menu box to appear and to click ok with default option having selected “oobe-reboot”. windows will ask questions for primary user/administrator
windows is very busy its first time up and also could use a gentle reboot before you start really messing with it (you’ll notice the settings app might be reluctant at first). so give it several minutes and if the oobe option never appears it will on the next boot or two
which brings us to some navigation — sliding in from right edge shows quick access menus, and the first quick-settings option at the bottom is ‘tablet-mode’ — I usually have it off. also, a longpress on the start menu button shows some useful options. second from the bottom is shutdown/signout. expand that and the have the shortcuts U-shutdown, R-restart.
we see a different startup, says it’s “cleaning up”. first is language choice (windows display language, more in a few), legal, skip network setup, I customize the ‘get going’ > turn off personalize speech and typing and send data for typing (for now at least). next, I turned off page-prediciton and both wireless auto-connects and send error information.
next reboot asks for a user name, though the user’s home _directory_ already has a name, jkt or something — don’t be scared (you could create a new admin user, switch to it, delete the first, and then your home-dir would match your user name)
now at real desktop..
we want to finish setting our language (I like english again) and we ought to know this procedure because my last windows 10 switched back to chinese after the large feature update 1607
(**first part is if we’re all in chinese)
longpress start
P-control panel
green title next to Globe with A and foreign symbol (clock, language, and region)
again, hit the green title next to the Globe with A and foreign symbol (language)
left side here has links, but not yet — on right two-thirds, grey bar with one good option and three greyed-out
hit that black option (to add language)
scroll down to english (from chinese, it’s way towards the bottom).
first bottom right button is OK, second is Cancel. OK
now choose your dialect, OK
we’re now back to the language selector. choose our new language, it’s selected, now hit it’s Options.
the first option, first button will activate english if from chinese. it will log out and log back in with a new windows display language
(**following should be done if already mostly set to english OR if all is chinese, from control panel language settings:)
select Advanced options on left side menu
under Override, find and hit blue link to “apply language settings to welcome screen”, etc
new menu .. tab over one to Location — find your location and select. Apply. don’t be a foreign traveler
tab back over to Admin
Copy Settings
check both boxes at bottom — welcome screen/system accounts and user accounts.
Ok and restart
lastly, get your settings good and get on the net. things to be weary of so not in any hurry are a few updates that will come in as well as windows store defaulting to auto-update apps. what we really want to do tho is to login your desktop user to your microsoft account and activate the device as yours. in settings > accounts, and settings > activation
and of course feature update 1607 which will require some more storage and there are ways we should lighten our current storage some anyways. after windows has run all it’s other updates and you feel good about things, run Disk Cleanup from Start > Admin Tools. choose System Cleanup option and it will rescan the system drive. check a lot of the stuff
for added storage, I used a micro sd card .. pop it in and format it from file manager or the autoplay box
I got this tablet to replace my other android tablet and it’s dual boot at that. at first, as this thing gets going, some things might be delayed or pause. that’s not abnormal when first setting up the device but it’s actually pretty dang neat. also like to say that this kind of stuff is fun every once in a while, but I don’t suggest doing anything off the wall with it like flashing an alternative operating system or messing with much else unless you really think you know what you’re doing. I actually call that a good beginner setup guide in some way, shape or fashion, leaving a solid bios, solid android (hopefully never gets so misused it can’t be factory reset from settings), and windows quite usable.
thanks
December 23, 2016 at 9:51 pm #59155After I installed windows only on my tablet I got locked out of my account and cannot enter pass the login scree. I have tried loading a usb made with rufus which gets to the start installation screen but not further cause I need to use a mouse to select the options and cannot because the port is used by the usb. I also re-made the usb through your method and does not work. Starts loading but then stops. And I have tried different usb pens as well. Nothing works. Help please.
December 24, 2016 at 1:32 am #59163After I installed windows only on my tablet I got locked out of my account and cannot enter pass the login scree. I have tried loading a usb made with rufus which gets to the start installation screen but not further cause I need to use a mouse to select the options and cannot because the port is used by the usb. I also re-made the usb through your method and does not work. Starts loading but then stops. And I have tried different usb pens as well. Nothing works. Help please.
so had a succesful windows only install — was it from Cube supplied win10-only firmware for your device? or some other method like a clean custom install? and locked out by ‘incorrect’ credentials or because you can’t touch/type anything on the screen?
don’t feel compelled to go buy a usb keyboard any time soon, but if you’ve got one on a desktop computer and have an otg adapter they can be handy for doing things.
bit of mess here, but this helps prevent other messes later on — I used to use rufus to make boot drives, usually for specialty boot drives, be it linux distros or for somer obscure utility from a hardware manufacturer, or sometimes windows tho I used to prefer optical discs cause I thought they were faster and wouldn’t have to make another like it — rufus is hard to get right even tho it’s supposed to be user friendly and all “right there”. it’s not predictable how to make a usb drive bootable for a system (as a HDD, floppy, mbr, or single raw fat partition — last one is interesting) and what if any boot sector to record on there — and now a problem that creeps in is whether the boot disk is created in BIOS mode or UEFI mode, as windows will install as if that’s how you want to boot the new windows.
you’ll notice that the cube supplied firmware is not the standard windows installer — it’s not a hack or anything, but realize that both the MS installer and the cube firmware installer do not respond to touch because they don’t have the required drivers built in. cube’s stuff is set to run by itself, and *my* device’s main script has a single ill-placed command in it that asks user to press a key.
using what I described to install the supplied firmware was for the dual-boot variety for my iwork8. dual-boot is key, because flashing the android first clears and sets up all the partitions for dual boot, as in the main partition table, boot managers/loaders, all the android stuff and room for windows. the first part is what’s important. how you installed windows by itself really matters here as the cube script mess with some partitons — was your tablet ever dualboot?
it IS possible to install windows 10 clean on your tablet I’m sure alone or otherwise — on my device, I ran the bios update, android update, and did my own install of windows 10 with drivers I extracted (which wasn’t as easy as people think and does practically need a keyboard, but I’m glad I did it .. the default language is not chinese, and in fact the chinese isn’t there — recovery and such used to be chinese).
so how did the win10 only get there and what’s broken with your login?
December 24, 2016 at 1:42 am #59165the cube install script for their win10 update does hide the existing android “system” partition before installing windows — if it’s an old android and only redoing windows it won’t matter, but if it’s a new android it didn’t hide itself, and windows is gone so it can’t care yet, but the partition has to be hidden so windows will make its own system partition. that’s where the windows bootmanager and bootloader go —
how your “bios” gets you to your login screen says the same as how windows was installed and next to what
<hr />
had to stand back for a minute to see — rufus made requires mouse, sounds like windows10 install media, usb ‘my method’ (ack) stopped — if windows 10 install media you’re going to need a hub with a keyboard and have your drivers near (which you should *actually* pull from a working, fresh install of the Cube supplied windows 10 image, a whole different flash before), my way to make media is the simple way to make media for Cube suplied windows which should be for your device — (that’s also how I make windows media, again, need some sort of keyboard input)
December 24, 2016 at 2:20 am #59166where this gets interesting is with the dual-boot setups, if an iwork8 or similar, here’s why — I do not know if they sell windows only or android only models. the bios that can be flashed to my iwork8 can recognize and boot to an android or a windows 10 operating system. in fact it has to pass these phrases letter by letter for the OS to want to boot, and the OSs and the [later mentioned] efi manager can change this.
a boot manager let’s you choose what to boot
a boot loader starts an operating system
windows has it’s own boot manager, let’s you select advanced boot up options like recovery, ssafe mdoe or even multiple windows operating systems.
and windows’s boot manager points to a a windows boot loader — which starts that operating system. windows recovery is a different operating system and is many times found on another drive.
android is similar, has a boot loader that let’s you boot normal, sometimes safe mode (no thirdpart software), recovery/reset mode, fastboot, clear data or cache etc .. and
the android boot loader starts the android operating system.
EFI (our expanded) bios has a boot manager that [in our case] let’s you choose a whole nother external drive to try to boot or one of the known OS boot managers (which each have a predefined default target unless it somehow knows otherwise — ie, boot to advance boot options/recover for windows, triggered last time you were in windows)
seems the EFI boot manager is on a partition of the android type and has a little program with boot options, robot or window — that will disappear if you clear the partition OR …
bypass the EFI boot manger while your in the bios, it’s the first ‘boot option’ and you could instead choose to go to a known OS [‘s boot manager] but the chosen OS Image has to match!
do something like that, and you can get away with clearing the very first partiton — but if back to dual boot you have to reflash android by cube.
in reality there are boot mangers and boot loaders — in common vernacular boot-loader would be the choice between operating systems, and we’d call each os’s boot loader an OS-loader — all this extra hubbub is called chain-loading. windows boot loader only loads microsoft loaders, and the new security capabilities of UEFI have a secure way of booting to a recognized operating system — less popular operating systems won’t get the ‘security’ support from the BIOS — it actually does make sense tho. secure boot keeps viruses away like no other.
I haven’t looked on the system partitions since I first got the thing, but it’s interesting the initial android/windows choice partition has to set some entries and then perhaps reboot.
December 24, 2016 at 5:59 am #59170After I installed windows only on my tablet I got locked out of my account and cannot enter pass the login scree. I have tried loading a usb made with rufus which gets to the start installation screen but not further cause I need to use a mouse to select the options and cannot because the port is used by the usb. I also re-made the usb through your method and does not work. Starts loading but then stops. And I have tried different usb pens as well. Nothing works. Help please.
so had a succesful windows only install — was it from Cube supplied win10-only firmware for your device? or some other method like a clean custom install? and locked out by ‘incorrect’ credentials or because you can’t touch/type anything on the screen? don’t feel compelled to go buy a usb keyboard any time soon, but if you’ve got one on a desktop computer and have an otg adapter they can be handy for doing things. bit of mess here, but this helps prevent other messes later on — I used to use rufus to make boot drives, usually for specialty boot drives, be it linux distros or for somer obscure utility from a hardware manufacturer, or sometimes windows tho I used to prefer optical discs cause I thought they were faster and wouldn’t have to make another like it — rufus is hard to get right even tho it’s supposed to be user friendly and all “right there”. it’s not predictable how to make a usb drive bootable for a system (as a HDD, floppy, mbr, or single raw fat partition — last one is interesting) and what if any boot sector to record on there — and now a problem that creeps in is whether the boot disk is created in BIOS mode or UEFI mode, as windows will install as if that’s how you want to boot the new windows. you’ll notice that the cube supplied firmware is not the standard windows installer — it’s not a hack or anything, but realize that both the MS installer and the cube firmware installer do not respond to touch because they don’t have the required drivers built in. cube’s stuff is set to run by itself, and *my* device’s main script has a single ill-placed command in it that asks user to press a key. using what I described to install the supplied firmware was for the dual-boot variety for my iwork8. dual-boot is key, because flashing the android first clears and sets up all the partitions for dual boot, as in the main partition table, boot managers/loaders, all the android stuff and room for windows. the first part is what’s important. how you installed windows by itself really matters here as the cube script mess with some partitons — was your tablet ever dualboot? it IS possible to install windows 10 clean on your tablet I’m sure alone or otherwise — on my device, I ran the bios update, android update, and did my own install of windows 10 with drivers I extracted (which wasn’t as easy as people think and does practically need a keyboard, but I’m glad I did it .. the default language is not chinese, and in fact the chinese isn’t there — recovery and such used to be chinese). so how did the win10 only get there and what’s broken with your login?
Actually i used your method and the provided Windows install from Cube…got it working, had all set up and then accidentally clicked on the Systray menu that pops up…that thing changed everything back to Chinese and locked me out of the account. I tried every single way to reset the pass but did not make it. Now I will buy a usb hub and tr to click restart from the login menu and hold Shift and see if it takes me to the troubleshoot menu. If it happens I am good. I can reset the pass.
December 24, 2016 at 6:29 am #59171where this gets interesting is with the dual-boot setups, if an iwork8 or similar, here’s why — I do not know if they sell windows only or android only models. the bios that can be flashed to my iwork8 can recognize and boot to an android or a windows 10 operating system. in fact it has to pass these phrases letter by letter for the OS to want to boot, and the OSs and the [later mentioned] efi manager can change this. a boot manager let’s you choose what to boot a boot loader starts an operating system windows has it’s own boot manager, let’s you select advanced boot up options like recovery, ssafe mdoe or even multiple windows operating systems. and windows’s boot manager points to a a windows boot loader — which starts that operating system. windows recovery is a different operating system and is many times found on another drive. android is similar, has a boot loader that let’s you boot normal, sometimes safe mode (no thirdpart software), recovery/reset mode, fastboot, clear data or cache etc .. and the android boot loader starts the android operating system. EFI (our expanded) bios has a boot manager that [in our case] let’s you choose a whole nother external drive to try to boot or one of the known OS boot managers (which each have a predefined default target unless it somehow knows otherwise — ie, boot to advance boot options/recover for windows, triggered last time you were in windows) seems the EFI boot manager is on a partition of the android type and has a little program with boot options, robot or window — that will disappear if you clear the partition OR … bypass the EFI boot manger while your in the bios, it’s the first ‘boot option’ and you could instead choose to go to a known OS [‘s boot manager] but the chosen OS Image has to match! do something like that, and you can get away with clearing the very first partiton — but if back to dual boot you have to reflash android by cube. in reality there are boot mangers and boot loaders — in common vernacular boot-loader would be the choice between operating systems, and we’d call each os’s boot loader an OS-loader — all this extra hubbub is called chain-loading. windows boot loader only loads microsoft loaders, and the new security capabilities of UEFI have a secure way of booting to a recognized operating system — less popular operating systems won’t get the ‘security’ support from the BIOS — it actually does make sense tho. secure boot keeps viruses away like no other. I haven’t looked on the system partitions since I first got the thing, but it’s interesting the initial android/windows choice partition has to set some entries and then perhaps reboot.
And Iam able to boot up a Windows 10 version I made by myself with rufus and gets me to the initial setup screen but I did not have a hub to plug in a keyboard and a mouse. I will buy one today and see if it works. Otherwise I will just reinstall Android and then windows and then clear Android out of the system.
December 24, 2016 at 6:50 am #59174hey very cool — you’re actually not far off — I know windows 10 pretty well, I’m not sure what you clicked in the systray to lock you out .. but I would definately say first things after installing factory win10 is to switch langauge and go through all the windows 10 settings and then a few of the control panel items if you’re daring. keyboard and tablet settings should be visited, I like offer ‘standard’ keyboard .. has arrows, shift, ctrl, numbers row, etc.
rufus is actually extra making the usb drive — you can use diskpart same as the cube win10 .. you’d mount your real win10 iso on your computer’s file manager to a drive letter and xcopy the whole thing to your gpt/ntfs prepped usb —
what rufus can do that is worthwhile is make a bootable thumbdrive that isn’t a windows filesystem (fat or ntfs) — you’d take the iso of what you’re trying to boot (ie, linux or dos even) and it would clear the usb and apply the iso bit for bit and make sure that if there’s a bootsector in the iso it goes, and if not try to get one on there (an efi system doesn’t use boot sectors however) — the OTHER option is to _copy_ the iso to the usb and use one of rufus’s favorite bootloaders (isolinux perhaps) that sits on a windows fs (fat or ntfs) but will let you startup a linux operating system by extracting the whole iso to ram if you have enough, which is called a ramdrive.
ya so a clean install you’ll need a keyboard _and_ the drivers to get everything working from power/thermal control to touchpad and sound and wlan bluetooth etc. I’ll look at the driver dump I downloaded from here again, but it’s way fewer drivers than I pulled from the factory image myself. also know how to navigate windows w/ a keyboard.
out of curiosity which model number do you have and which firmware did you download?
oh and you could hook up a mouse, but I have limits ysee
December 24, 2016 at 6:58 am #59175be back in a while — if you install clean from windows install media, when you hit custom install and see a partition editor, you can delete every partition, and even shift+f10 to get to dos prompt and then diskpart delete ANY and all partitions (clean) on your system drive — windows will make it’s single solitary system partition for efi to find and you’d be good.
<hr />
driver pack is missing:
advsensorclassdriver – inf and dlls for sensors
dptf_pch – dynamic platform thermal framework, chipset attachment
gc2235 – camera sensor
intcdaud – intel display audio driver (hdmi assume)
ish – integrated sensor solution helper
ish_busdriver – integ sensor hub top of bus
monzax – rfid, remote locate/kill etc
rtii2sac – realtec r2s audio codec
nuvoton software from root dir in cube firmware, needed for sound besides the driverswhat’s not funny is the there’s nothing wrong with the cube provided win10 at all except the chinese and the intro videos — infact I think it’s a little _smaller_ than a custom clean install.
December 24, 2016 at 1:48 pm #59183be back in a while — if you install clean from windows install media, when you hit custom install and see a partition editor, you can delete every partition, and even shift+f10 to get to dos prompt and then diskpart delete ANY and all partitions (clean) on your system drive — windows will make it’s single solitary system partition for efi to find and you’d be good. <hr /> driver pack is missing: advsensorclassdriver – inf and dlls for sensors dptf_pch – dynamic platform thermal framework, chipset attachment gc2235 – camera sensor intcdaud – intel display audio driver (hdmi assume) ish – integrated sensor solution helper ish_busdriver – integ sensor hub top of bus monzax – rfid, remote locate/kill etc rtii2sac – realtec r2s audio codec nuvoton software from root dir in cube firmware, needed for sound besides the drivers what’s not funny is the there’s nothing wrong with the cube provided win10 at all except the chinese and the intro videos — infact I think it’s a little _smaller_ than a custom clean install.
All done…performed a clean install through a usb pen drive made with rufus..booted through bios and started it up…took about 20 mins..installed drivers and I am good to go..downloading windows updates as we speak..camera is giving me an error but I think there is a fix for that too
December 24, 2016 at 2:44 pm #59185Any chance you can extract the camera driver from your windows installation?
December 24, 2016 at 5:09 pm #59190yes — what I’ve got to work with are the latest dual boot firmwares from cube — one for the i1-T series and one for the [more specifically] i1-TC series .. the serial number on the back of your device. I’m taking that they put some different chips in different model numbers (probably more supply than choice), so they’ll need different drivers or at least different INFs if the drivers are the same. I can grab another firmware or two — what model?
I had to doubly check my camera also, sound and wireless.
December 25, 2016 at 2:58 am #59216yes — what I’ve got to work with are the latest dual boot firmwares from cube — one for the i1-T series and one for the [more specifically] i1-TC series .. the serial number on the back of your device. I’m taking that they put some different chips in different model numbers (probably more supply than choice), so they’ll need different drivers or at least different INFs if the drivers are the same. I can grab another firmware or two — what model? I had to doubly check my camera also, sound and wireless.
I got the ultimate version…2gb/32gb
December 25, 2016 at 11:14 pm #59253well, more specifically the serial number — the first several digits represent what exact model it is within the iwork8 ult — they made some different than others. different chips and different configuration among the chips. so drivers are different and bios settings are going to be different, the firmware available for your exact model is required. say, there’s like three iwork8 ults.
?? first four or five digits — like i1-T or i1-TC
December 26, 2016 at 11:59 am #59267All done now..managed to find the IPS camera driver and I got it working. A great software is Driver Easy ..helps a lot to see which drivers are in need of an update
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