TechTablets › Forums › Chuwi Forums › Chuwi HiBook Discussion › Re-Review Hibook 10.1
- This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 11 months ago by
Tmon.
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July 20, 2016 at 10:01 pm #44037
Yes, you’re right about implementation at least. My HiBook has NONE of those problems, but with these cheap tabs, there’s a much higher “percentage error” or failure rate.
I normally don’t hesitate to do firmware updates, but with this thing I’m afraid I’ll start with a fully working tab and end up with problems (or a brick).
I’m pretty impressed for the money, but I gambled and was lucky. So I can’t really recommend one to anyone else.
Philippians 2:4 Let each of you look not only to his own interests, but also to the interests of others.
July 21, 2016 at 9:56 am #44068Hi Andy,
thanks for replying. I removed the back panel to find the ribbon cable from the mainboard to the LCD was partially disconnected.
The specifications on the ribbon cable is about 2mm too short. Any movement in transit and shipping is dislodging these (as you might have pointed out months ago)
We’re there now and the tablet is working again. Thanks
Warren
July 21, 2016 at 11:57 am #44083Hi Warren my Hibook arrived damaged, tablet bent on left side. When you dismantle it is the rear casing seperate from the mainboard/screen or is the mainboard sat in the rear casing? Seller is offering compensation so am thinking of keeping it and trying to bend back as tablet seems to function ok. Is it difficult to dismantle/put back together?
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You must be logged in to view attached files.July 22, 2016 at 2:25 am #44157Hi,
Looks as if your tablet is not 100% new and the seller might have used it as a display model.
That particular damage on the docking hole is caused by removal from the keyboard. The magnets holding the keyboard to the tablet are very powerful, if the tablet is not pulled out exactly perpendicular the keyboard stub catches the tablet and bends the frame.
To answer your question; the rear metal casing ‘snaps’ on to the front frame. The front frame holds the LCD, mainboard, and battery.
You will need to remove the 4 x Torx screws. You can then use a plastic tool to pry open the case near the headphone socket and work the whole way around. The power & volume button is one piece of plastic and will fall out. There are 4 magnets that will also fall out as they are only affixed with very light glue. When reassembling, make sure the magnets are back in the same orientation, and don’t forget the buttons!
%Warning% unless the tablet is faulty I would not open it. They are easy to open, but reassembly can sometimes cause the digitizer to crack or split when ‘snapping’ the case together.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Warren
July 22, 2016 at 11:12 am #44184Thanks for taking the time to explain how to open the tablet. Bit nerve wracking but bent it back successfully, few marks on the casing (used pliers) but it’s going in a case anyway. It’s quite a weak point where the keyboard joins, I can see what you mean about it getting bent easily.
Managed to trap a hair inbetween the digitizer and LCD near the top, any tips on removing it or best to leave it? Thanks for your help 🙂
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You must be logged in to view attached files.July 22, 2016 at 11:13 am #44186Hair near top of screen 🙁
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You must be logged in to view attached files.July 23, 2016 at 3:46 pm #44294Hi Warren I found your post about the LCD being glued to the frame and hard to get off so I won’t push my luck anymore with trying to do that! Good luck fixing your broken model 🙂
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