Video of recommended thermal mod

[Giuseppe]

Alright man, let me know if you can. I’m waiting for the i7 book in the mail 🙂

[Giuseppe]

The i7 Book arrived and it’s lovely!

 

But – it really gets way too hot, even without super taxing uses (video playback, general browsing). So I’m definitely looking on the thermal mod.  I’ll try to find a suitable thermal pad to apply on top of the stock metal cooler and see if I manage to have improvements. I don’t hold the tablet with my hands so I suppose it’s not a big deal if it gets hot on the back.

[mrobi]

How about just using thermal paste between original cooler plate and cpu/gpu, or does it make proper contact?

[Wylver]

As far as I understood there is a 1mm thick thermal pad sitting between the DIE and the aluminum heatspreader, therefore you should only change it for something equal in size.

[mrobi]

Wylver wrote:

As far as I understood there is a 1mm thick thermal pad sitting between the DIE and the aluminum heatspreader, therefore you should only change it for something equal in size.

Ok. I ordered:

• Thermal Conductive Plaster Viscous Adhesive Glue
• Copper shims 20x20x1mm
• 0.5mm thermal pad

I try to make “light” cooling mod with original aluminium cooler. I have no intents to overclock this tablet, just make it run cooler with stock settings or slightly less turbo boost without burns in my hand.

[Papa Yoyo]

I’ve ordered the opposite… 1mm thermal pad and 0.5mm shim

hope i haven’t made a mistake!

[mrobi]

Sorry my previous post had typo, mailman dropped 20×20 0,5mm copper shims, Silicone heatsink paster and 0,5mm cooling pads today, just before christmas ^_^

1. Removed stock cooler and removed thermal pad
2. “Attached” copper shim on cpu with silver paste, ajusted so that it doesnt touch anything (because its bigger than CPU)
3. Put some thermal glue on stock cooler bumb
4. Screwed stock cooler back in place, waited the glue to dry out (~15mins)
5. Removed stock cooler, checked that copper shim came with it. Yes, it was glued properly and positioned properly
6. Cut and attached cooling pad to stock cooler
7. Screwed cooler back in and assembled tablet

I managed to break side of battery connector. One of the pins is exposed but it seems to stay in securely enouhg. Hope that black wire is ground, though there is no loose stuff inside anyways.

I attached screenshot of XTU showings during 3D Mark 11 performance test before and after mod. It seems that my mod was successfull, there is 19C difference with peak temps. Its not long and torough test though.

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[Jason Dessenberg]

So is a 0.5mm shim and a 1.0mm thermal pad the way to go?

My plan was to remove the aluminum plate and install the 0.5mm copper shim onto the heat sink.  Re-install the aluminum plate.  Use a 1.0mm non-conductive thermal pad on top of the aluminum plate.  Does the thermal pad need to be glued?  I just want to make sure everything is going to still fit together.  I don’t want to make a huge project out of this either.  I am going to replace the ssd at the sametime.  So I want to do this all in one shot.

[Jerome]

I’d say a 1mm shim and 0.5mm thermal pad is the way to go. Apparently the thermal pad that’s in between the core and the aluminum headspreader is +/- 1mm, so you replace it with an equally sized shim. Then a 0.5mm thermal pad on top of the aluminum plate seems not to cause any pressure on the screen whatsoever. I’ve read that several people only put a 0.5mm thermal pad on the aluminum plate without any other mods.

[Jerome]

mrobi wrote:

Sorry my previous post had typo, mailman dropped 20×20 0,5mm copper shims, Silicone heatsink paster and 0,5mm cooling pads today, just before christmas ^_^

1. Removed stock cooler and removed thermal pad
2. “Attached” copper shim on cpu with silver paste, ajusted so that it doesnt touch anything (because its bigger than CPU)
3. Put some thermal glue on stock cooler bumb
4. Screwed stock cooler back in place, waited the glue to dry out (~15mins)
5. Removed stock cooler, checked that copper shim came with it. Yes, it was glued properly and positioned properly
6. Cut and attached cooling pad to stock cooler
7. Screwed cooler back in and assembled tablet

I managed to break side of battery connector. One of the pins is exposed but it seems to stay in securely enouhg. Hope that black wire is ground, though there is no loose stuff inside anyways. I attached screenshot of XTU showings during 3D Mark 11 performance test before and after mod. It seems that my mod was successfull, there is 19C difference with peak temps. Its not long and torough test though.

After the mod, how does the casing of the tablet feel when doing things like surfing, watching video’s etc? Since I won’t be benchmarking 24/7, I don’t care about high casing temperature during that, but I would like to be able to hold the tablet without burning my hands when doing regular things.

[Jason Dessenberg]

Jerome wrote:

mrobi wrote:

Sorry my previous post had typo, mailman dropped 20×20 0,5mm copper shims, Silicone heatsink paster and 0,5mm cooling pads today, just before christmas ^_^

1. Removed stock cooler and removed thermal pad
2. “Attached” copper shim on cpu with silver paste, ajusted so that it doesnt touch anything (because its bigger than CPU)
3. Put some thermal glue on stock cooler bumb
4. Screwed stock cooler back in place, waited the glue to dry out (~15mins)
5. Removed stock cooler, checked that copper shim came with it. Yes, it was glued properly and positioned properly
6. Cut and attached cooling pad to stock cooler
7. Screwed cooler back in and assembled tablet

I managed to break side of battery connector. One of the pins is exposed but it seems to stay in securely enouhg. Hope that black wire is ground, though there is no loose stuff inside anyways. I attached screenshot of XTU showings during 3D Mark 11 performance test before and after mod. It seems that my mod was successfull, there is 19C difference with peak te mps. Its not long and torough test though.

After the mod, how does the casing of the tablet feel when doing things like surfing, watching video’s etc? Since I won’t be benchmarking 24/7, I don’t care about high casing temperature during that, but I would like to be able to hold the tablet without burning my hands when doing regular things.

I purchased both 1mm & 0.5mm shims not knowing.  I will see what it looks like tomorrow when I crack mine open.  I wasn’t quite sure the manufacture used for a heatsink/shield on the processor.

[fris]

I don´r understand your point number 6. Where do you attach cooper pad to stock cooler??? Can you post a photo or explain better??? Your mod it´s in my opinion the best…

[Bouke]

I have already purchased a 20x20x1mm copper shim and 100x100x1mm thermal pad in order to do this mod, but I cannot return them anymore. How much ‘danger’ will it cause to my Cube if I use these instead of the recommended 0.5mm shim or pad? As I’m a student I would not like to spend too much on it, but having to ‘push the screen back’, as Chris called it does not seem like a very good situation for the tablet.

Bouke

[Rima Lisaw]

Hi Guys,

 

I need some advice with regards to the thermal mod and hope anyone can help me out.

I intent on using a Kaptop Polyimide tape to insulate the copper sheet (replacing the aluminium sheet) on the side that is facing the circuit board. Below is the link to tape. Is it the suitable for use in this case?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/35mm-x-30m-Polyimide-Gold-Tape-High-Temperature-260-300-Heat-Resistant-/291554540601

Thank you.

[Papa Yoyo]

Jason Dessenberg wrote:

I purchased both 1mm & 0.5mm shims not knowing. I will see what it looks like tomorrow when I crack mine open. I wasn’t quite sure the manufacture used for a heatsink/shield on the processor.

Any update on which shim was better? I’d like to know if the 0.5mm shim I got is ok.

[Author]

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