Bad EZBook pro batteries – How to replace step by step

[airbites]

I suggest you change the browser to a less aggravating, for example, Opera, vivaldi, Centbrowser and the addition of ad blocking to the browser.

Windows 10 is not an economical system because it has a lot of telemetry and eavesdropping and you have to overwhelm them and see you on the dump with the task manager.

You live in Germany and the temperature is around 0 degrees outside, which also reduces battery performance. In my winter, the short tablet works than in the summer.

[Peter]

my battery duration is decreasing day by day. now it discharges by a rate of more -20.00 mWH with 25% brightness. And I am doing nothing with this computer. CPU load is around 1o percent. So I cannot see that here is something heavily affecting my battery in the background except firefox..? Seems this battery is just crap…

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[airbites]

Have you enabled wifi, bluetooth, uploading, etc.? Is it possible that the battery or a short-circuit?

[Paco]

Hello everyone, I am new here.

Today I replaced my EzB 3Pro batteries with two of these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/L463-3-7V-8100mAH-4812080-PLIB-polymer-lithium-ion-battery-for-tablet-pc-power-bank/32800900225.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4djQRltw

It was really easy, no previous soldering experience. (Hardest part for me was removing one of the battery screws, which I striped like the newbie I am):

They are 106 g each, whereas the original ones weigh only ~70 grams. They fit in the original frame; only a bit thicker. Provided the seller is as honest as he says, I should expect a substantial difference. Just the difference in mass is close to 50% more than the original ones. ~25€ and ~20 days to Spain.

Will it be too much to hope to reach the advertised ~7h of light use? I was getting less than 3 hours before the replacement.

I will comment once I find out.

In the meantime, I will be happy to hear if you have any advice to give, those of you with more experience.

I attach some pictures.

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[max]

Paco wrote:

Hello everyone, I am new here. Today I replaced my EzB 3Pro batteries with two of these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/L463-3-7V-8100mAH-4812080-PLIB-polymer-lithium-ion-battery-for-tablet-pc-power-bank/32800900225.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4djQRltw ……….

let us know how they go.

if you do not use old batteries I would be interested in buying them, I am Italian.

ezbook 3pro rulez

[Peter]

now my battery is almost dead. after beeing fully charged, it loses 20% within minutes and then the computer switches off. This message I received today from geekbuying afersales service:

Dear…,<br clear=”none” />Sorry for the inconvenience<br clear=”none” />Actually, the battery issue is a common issue<br clear=”none” />How about we apply 25EUR refund to make up you and you keep it?<br clear=”none” />We wish you a nice day

[Paco]

max wrote:

Paco wrote:

Hello everyone, I am new here. Today I replaced my EzB 3Pro batteries with two of these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/L463-3-7V-8100mAH-4812080-PLIB-polymer-lithium-ion-battery-for-tablet-pc-power-bank/32800900225.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4djQRltw ……….

let us know how they go. if you do not use old batteries I would be interested in buying them, I am Italian.

You mean you want my old original batteries which last less than 3h? Wouldn’t it be better to you to order other ones?

At first I did not really understand, but now I am afraid I am beginning to see why.

First charge cycle, charged in 2h 5min, Discharge: on track to being faster than that. First 15% down in less than 15 minutes. While idle.

I know it is soon to tell, but this does not look good at all.

I call out to everyone reading this:

Has anyone actually done this with a clear satisfactory result? Is anyone getting anywhere near the advertised 7-8 hours of light use?

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Paco]

Mmm

Second charge cycle, 100 to 5% in just over 2 hours idling. Disastrous.

The thing is, It is hard for me to believe that the 200+grams batteries are bad. Seller seemed legit.

It must be that something else is wrong.

Battery bar always reported 48000 mWh, which is wrong from the beginning, which was obviously wrong. Perhaps the system is not treating the new batteries correctly.

Please, advice. I must have done something wrong or something.

I summon all of you battery masters, in my time of need.

 

Paco

[Greedo77]

Paco wrote:

Mmm Second charge cycle, 100 to 5% in just over 2 hours idling. Disastrous. The thing is, It is hard for me to believe that the 200+grams batteries are bad. Seller seemed legit. It must be that something else is wrong. Battery bar always reported 48000 mWh, which is wrong from the beginning, which was obviously wrong. Perhaps the system is not treating the new batteries correctly. Please, advice. I must have done something wrong or something. I summon all of you battery masters, in my time of need. Paco

Could be a connection or contact discharging against metal somewhere around the battery?

The reason I ask is I replaced my faulty batteries and the new ones worked amazingly well, but recently they have been a bit less reliable. Sometimes after charging they will discharge quickly without doing anything other than the usual tasks. I have had a few runs where it’s normal again and I can use it and then power off or sleep and when I return to it even after a day or two the battery level has barely changed. However I’ve now found I can fully charge, use it and drainage is faster than usual and then when I return to it after it being powered off for a day or two, it has dropped from 80% to ~40%.

So I am going to take the back panel again to inspect and see if everything is insulated OK.

[Chupa]

@paco
set in power options /battery /critical level as low as it goes (4% with my Jumper)
let Jumper run out of power
while the Jumper is off connect a power usage meter between the outlet and the power plug.
something like in the pictures.
Reset and set to W/H total
now start charging until it is full (light near the plug should change) or wait 5 hours.
Check if the Watt/Hours are around the value your batteries should have 35 w/h or 0.035 Kw/h

If not, send picture to seller and demand an new set or full refund – check your time to declare doa (mostly a week or less)

@all
as I mentioned several times, the only way to get 8 hours out of a fully charged Jumper etc is:
brightness to minimum – do not use the stupid 0 25 50 75 100% setting , use something with a slider (I use <span class=”result__url__domain”>clickmonitorddc.bplaced.net</span>) and go down to 5 to max 10%
set power plan to power save
enable battery saver
disable all background tasks.
do some light browsing but mostly typing like writing in you blog, coding or just reading.
No youtube or other other web pages with videos.

monitor your batterybar discharge rate – it should stay always below -4.000 mW
If you do all that and you have a battery without any wear you can reach 8 hours

For any normal usage scenarios you have between 2.5 to 4 hours real life run time.

Also understand, even if you have a brand new fully charged battery with 35.000mw/h
you critical shutdown level is often set to 10%
So you already have 10% less run time!
Now you all want to have full power what is normally 6 watt for 40 seconds, then throttling sets in and you are around 4.5 watt processor usage.
With the right tools you can make the processor run with over 10 watt for ever (like my mods what even reach a spike from over 18 watt)

In that case and with full brightness you are in the 2.5 hour usage scenario, or like me – just keep it plugged in.
In full power usage mode with additional battery charging my 24watt rated power plug (12V 2A) draws 28 watts

Also I have a Jumper 14″ 3S what has a bigger battery than the 3pro.

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[—]

Hello there guys,

Having trouble with my battery too, I my case the cells look and work fine. However the controller seems to be defective as a light tap against the controller make the power cut out.

My battery is from a V1 and has more wires and a different controller. Have anybody got any idea if a replacement for the v3/v4 (As linked previously) would work. Or have you got any other suggestion what to do?

Best Regards
J_man

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Paco]

Hi,

Thanks all of you for the input, and sorry for the delay.

I opened the EzBook again to see if I could find something strange. Solder points seemed ok, and battery was sitting well there; didn’t seem too crammed inside, despite the extra thickness.

Then, (after having charged the battery) I decided to check with a voltmeter, and found that one of the batteries was giving a solid 4.1 V (to be expected when full) while the other on the left was giving around 3.8 V. Total voltage was 8V.

Is this normal?

I attach some pictures.

 

@chupa

Thanks for the good advice. I will do, but at the moment I don’t have one of those to test. I live in a somewhat remote location and it will take for me a few days to get one.

However, I still want to believe that the issue is other than the batteries being faked capacity. Weight checked properly, and seller seemed legit to me. Even then, they are labeled 8100 mAh each. For this kind of result, they would have to be like 2x 2000 mAh or something. Which would be too little for over 200grams, even for a Chinese scammer, I believe.

 

Maybe they aren’t being properly read or charged or something?

I am new to this; maybe I simply did something wrong.

Paco

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Paco]

Quick update:

Funnily enough, after putting everything back together, and turning the EzB back on, battery has dropped about 40%. I attach BatteryBar screenshot.

(53% now that I am writing this, less than 15 minutes after)

Paco

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Chupa]

your 3.8v is a defective unit

and if you measure the battery unplug the main cable first

´´

“I my case the cells look and work fine. However the controller seems to be defective as a light tap against the controller make the power cut out.”

then you have a broken solder spot on the controller. See if you can find it with a magnifying glass, if not just reheat all solder spots until it gets liquid and it should be ok.

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Paco]

I have an update:

I talked to the seller and he replied quickly.

He says I should unplug both batteries, charge them individually to 4.3V, and only then plug them together to the computer board.

Seemed reasonable to me.

I asked him how should I charge them individually, and he said I could use a regular 5V 2A charger.

I guess it is time for me to cut some wires.

Did any of you have to do something like this?

[Author]

Posts