May 20, 2016 at 10:08 am #38015
I may have bricked my Hi12 trying the BIOS update. I put the usb I created in the usb2 port and turned tablet on, it started accessing the usb but the screen remained black. After a couple of minutes I panicked and held down the power button. Now when I try to power on nothing happens and no charging light when I plug in charger. The blue number lock on the keypad sometimes flashes briefly when I’m trying to power on. Any ideas to try welcome, otherwise looks like I’m back to using my Ramos tablet.May 20, 2016 at 10:18 am #38016
my tab just bricked also after “successfully” flashing the bios through the windows utility included in the software… I, too, am looking for options. A search through the Chuwi forums shows a long history of tablets failing through the bios and users unable to recover them.
It’s 6:15pm on Friday in China too, so we won’t be seeing any immediate help from ChuwiMay 20, 2016 at 3:38 pm #38034
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I successfully flashed it by booting the usb containing the files by pressing f7 during boot up.May 20, 2016 at 6:26 pm #38044
I successfully flashed it by booting the usb containing the files by pressing f7 during boot up.
That’s what I was trying to do but it went straight to usb so didn’t give me a chance to access the boot menu.
When you did it did you get any on screen GUI? My screen just remained black.May 20, 2016 at 8:22 pm #38054
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You need to flash it gaint with an usb programmer and a clip.May 20, 2016 at 8:47 pm #38056
You need to flash it gaint with an usb programmer and a clip.
Thanks for the suggestion, I’ve never done that before but I’m not afraid to open this brick up at this point. I know hardware can vary based on manufacturer, but are usb programmer and clips universal, and is there a particular tutorial online that you would recommend I follow?May 21, 2016 at 6:50 am #38083
I’ve ordered usb programmer and clip mentioned in this thread: http://techtablets.com/forum/topic/dual-os-version-announced/page/2/#post-27702
Will give it a go in a few weeks when I’ve got it.May 21, 2016 at 7:10 am #38086
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the flashing process will be very obvious. lines of scripts will appear and you will be given 5 seconds to proceed or to abort.
Ohkis wrote a tutorial in the pinned discussion up at the top of the forum. Go have a lookMay 21, 2016 at 9:51 am #38104
Yes, that was the procedure I used but didn’t see any messages on the screen just a lot of usb activity. I probably didn’t wait long enough and force powered it off so now the BIOS is gone and can’t boot anything. Hopefully can be resurrected with a usb programmer.May 21, 2016 at 10:54 pm #38195
I’ve ordered a USB programmer and clip from Amazon, will be delivered tomorrow 5/22 so I’ll let you know if it worksMay 22, 2016 at 2:15 am #38208
good luck, take your time and don’t rush it. You might need access to an older PC or laptop as I don’t think Win 10 is supported by the flash program.May 22, 2016 at 11:19 pm #38282
well I was able to flash and verify the new bios successfully (according to the program), but like the best laid plans, I soldered the power wires back on and tested it and I got no response from the system at all, not even the USB power that it had before.
Good luck with yoursMay 23, 2016 at 9:34 am #38335
I’m sorry to hear that. Were you able to check if the battery had any voltage left? Mine had the same symptom of sign of usb power on the first day I lost the BIOS but by the next day nothing so I think it may have been continuing to drain the battery after I thought I’d powered off.May 23, 2016 at 2:18 pm #38358
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I had the same problem. No sign of life and the battery at 3.1v – fully discharged. (at 3.1v stops the pmic – axp288c)
First of all: the BIOS Chip is a Winbond FW Type. That means: 1.8V. Most programmers (the ch341 for example) are only for 3.2v eeprom types. so you have to use a level converter from 3.2v to 1.8v. If you didn’t do that, you have inserted 3.2v on the motherboard where only 1.8v were expected……
I had to desolder my bios chip and change it to a new one. the old chip was possible to program and verify but it doesn’t work. a new one was able to start my tablet with the same bin file. it seems that my old bios chip has problems at normal working frequencies (20mhz).
After changing the chip and charging the lipo with an external lipo charger my chuwi works well since a couple of weeks.May 23, 2016 at 2:29 pm #38360
- Posts: 13
When I am reading posts about changing bios chip in the motherboard, I am fking scary. Are you everybody working as a repair person in any factory? Or changing the bios chip is very easy and every gsm service is able to change it?
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