[Tim]

When you lost your Android, the only way you could have repaired that (as you did) would be via recovery.  According to their instructions, recovery of Android will destroy W10 (not necessarily wiped, just messed up the MBR I guess).  You should be able to confirm that by only seeing one option in your dual boot, which is android.

The reinstall of W10 is straightforward (copy files to the usb, boot from it, and you will need a usb hub for a keyboard I think) albeit painfully slow.  Just remember it will failed to reboot the first time after installation complete…. try a couple of times.

[Tim]

Wrote a couple of replies that didn’t get accepted for some odd reason.  Anyway , see second post from page 11 of this thread.  Also see my thread on Anniversary Upgrade and Dual Boot.

[Tim]

Technically you can, and I did.  But every time I boot into W10A I would lose access to Android again.   I will post the instructions to upgrade W10 in the other thread, as I am still seeking advice there on whether this is worth repeating the installations as things stand.

Please read the other thread.

[Tim]

Had you not re-flashed Android, just use the fast boot combo (pwr + vol up + vol down), but do not connect to PC (that’s what the fast boot is for).  Turn it off instead and reboot (automatically into Android).

This is just a temp work around.  Read more on a new thread I started a couple days ago for more on my findings (and questions).

Since you have re-flashed Android (using recovery presumably) you have wiped your Windows.  You will have to download the win image from Teclast and reinstall W10-non-anniversary.

[Tim]

Just curious. How is the touch support on lubuntu? I tried Gnome on another 2-in-1 and felt that the effort wasn’t worthwhile.

[Tim]

ok, seem to have found a work around… I am really reluctant to reinstall OS/firmware. Spent too much time on installations already since I received this tablet on Wednesday.

Went like this:

1) volume+/- and pwr into fast boot mode

2) wait a few minutes and stuck on fast boot screen

3) turn it off and on again… voila – booted into android.

[Tim]

I am having the same boot problem after anniversary update and debating whether I really want to recover Android, as I have plenty of Android devices and who cares of 5.11 🙂

I bought this primarily for reading PDFs. On W10 I have my fav readers Sumatra and Xodo. Xodo is available on Android and the version is slightly ahead of W10…hence the dilemma.

Anyway, I am writing to share that I did manage to boot into Android once (and only once, no boot selection just straight into Android) after messing with the quiet boot/boot priority options in the BIOS… hell but it could just be a coincidence as I cannot reproduce it. And switching back to Windows is how I lost access to Android the second time. I seemed to recall having similar issues with dual boot win8 and linux long time ago. Could not remember how that was solved unfortunately.

PS. This is C2D6. Wifi was a bit buggy (disconnect, flight mode wifi both on simultaneously) prior to anniversary update (android seems to be fine), otherwise I did not experience range issue like some reviews said.

[Tim]

Hi Gal,

I suspect people are talking about two different things.

PWM – TLDR the link others provided. But I beleive that is pulse-width-modulation in this context? In that case, yes, the brightness would be controlled by digitally controlled pulses and the flicker, if any naked eye can detect, should be constant. But that should not be the flicker you noticed (which I noticed too); because PWM frequency should be higher than your eyes can discern, not unlike a florescent tube that is in *good working condition*. As for viewing through the mobile phone, yes you would catch them because of strobe effect. If you use a better cam corder with shutter control I bet you can eliminate that.

As for the flicker that most people notice (not constant), I also believe it is the Intel driver. I have eliminated that by turning off those two Intel optons as other pointed out. HOWEVER, incidentally, I also touched one of the PWM settings in the BIOS (something to do with ‘weight’… BIOS developers never bothers explain things for lay-persons 🙂 prior, so maybe the two (BIOS and driver) have to work together? I will report back next time I mess with the BIOS.

Somewhat related experience. My work W10 laptop can never detect my 2560 wide screen monitor at home (intel chipset with intel driver). One day I dual booted the sucker into Linux and it works out of the box.

[Author]

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