[Anton]

Victor, check if there is a gap between plastic part of the cover and case near the display – on the lower and upper side of the screen.

In order to inserst palstic card inside like shown in this video.

youtube.com/watch?v=VQYx58LJBHk

[Anton]

Daniel wrote:

But do you have any arctic paste between the coppar-sheets?

No:) As I’ve written in post, which related to the mod:

“It consists of three copper plates soldered with tin on a gas stove (before that, do not forget to use sandpaper where you’ll solder and use rosin). Try not to overheat, and after switching off the gas tight squeeze with each other. Excess tin that is spilled on the plate – evenly smear on the hot soldering plate, so do not take useful space.”

Jakob Schmidt Rasmussen wrote:

Anton have you checked the weight,

Unfortunately no, because:

1. Because I have no accurate scales at home, except those, which weigh my ass 😀
2. Modded version of TPAD will definetely differ in weight with stock one.

[Anton]

Daniel wrote:

@anton I have a question about your heatsink. The middle layer copper sheet has small cut-outs. Why is that?

Because smallest plate is only 1 mm thick. It’s not enough, because “tall” elements on MB contact the middle plate of the tablet. That’s why they were cut-out on middle plate.

If you find 1,5 mm smallest plate for CPU contact – you won’t have such an issue. But there will be less space for middle and big plate, because you are limited by total 3 mm cooling system thickness (including thermal pad).

My cooling is not the optimal variant, I think, you may improvise 🙂

[Anton]

IMPORTANT info for everyone, who uses Huawei 906 or other wireless internal cards!

There are specials slots for antennas (marked on photos with “red” and “green”). One is near the SSD, the second is near the battery.

DON’T place the antenna near the SSD! It will disrupt work of your SSD!

I placed all the antennas in slot near the battery, but I had to break one little partition, which is marked “yellow” on the other photo. Pls also see where the latches of the antenna slot are located and how to pull them in order to open the slot (marked “green”).

I had a random freezes and crashes until I did everything as described.

Good Luck!

 

 

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Anton]

Here attached on Stock Voltage.

 

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Anton]

Jakob Schmidt Rasmussen wrote:

Anton@ The own video you linked ‘ actually shows it quite comprihensiv how the backplate on newer version only comes off in the middle and not the bottom or the top where the camera is, like your model and as the vid with the X2 pro (1gen) with the cute cat’ you posted… There is an huge difference..(check 3:12 in the vid you linked to some posts ago and wanted remove)

Ok, understood. Of course, our thread needs two videos of tablet dismantling now. For owners of the Gen 1 tablet and Gen 2.

This question occurred due to the incidents, when people having 1st Gen tablet with latches, used hairdryer to unglue aluminium cover 😀

Because there was only one video tutorial on youtube.

So, this problem is considered to be fixed now 🙂

On our CIS countries forum, by the way, noone has Gen 2 tablet w/o latches. Thus I was so skeptical about the original tutorial. My Teclast was bought on 10 November 2015 from banggood.

 

[Anton]

Can you show on photos edges and corners of new revison of Teclast x2 Pro?

[Anton]

[Anton]

[Anton]

Wa wrote:

Anton wrote:

Backcover is mounted with latches, which are designed to be openned many times. Mine was openned >20 times, nothing is broken.

Can you describe how should we open the backcover Who knows when you will find the time to make video

I’ll do it today 😉

[Anton]

Additional photos. Not able to attach all of them in one post…

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Anton]

Yesterday I’ve checked the contact of wifi antenna – it’s ok.

Also verified, that tablet crashes only with backcover. Tried to check short circuits on backcover – but nothing found(

BTW, here is my heat sink mod.

1. It consists of three copper plates soldered with tin on a gas stove (before that, do not forget to use sandpaper where you’ll solder and use rosin). Try not to overheat, and after switching off the gas tight squeeze with each other. Excess tin that is spilled on the plate – evenly smear on the hot soldering plate, so do not take useful space.
2. Biggest plate – 0.5 mm thick, the rest are 1 mm. Dimensions in mm are on photos attached.
3. Screw washers are 0.25 mm thick, glued on adhesive.
4. Thermal pad is 0.5 mm thick in size of plate.
5. On the backcover I had to cut back the “black” tape in order to align the height of the cover.

 

And advise for future modders of Teclast x2 Pro… Who gave that crappy idea to unglue backcover with heardrier???

Backcover is mounted with latches, which are designed to be openned many times. Mine was openned >20 times, nothing is broken.

So, the author of this video, if you are present on this forum.

youtube.com/watch?v=9kl6SEKhJFY

DELETE!!!! this.

I’ll share the right video this week.

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Anton]

You can reduce 5-7 degrees simply by lowering voltage by -75 mV on CPU trough Intel Extreme Overlooking utility. It also reduces TDP of processor from 4 to 3 watts. It helps to keep higher frequencies of CPU under load. You can also try to decrease voltage more, depending on the quality of the chip. In the worst case, you will have instability and reboot the tablet.

The same is for GPU. But actually, I cannot assess surplus in performance and temperature as a result of GPU voltage lowering by ~75 mV, because I have an extreme temperature throttling in 3D applications. Even with 14 cm fan placed on the back of the tablet. I will do the heat sink mod as soon as receive components for it.

BTW. Try NOT OVERHEAT tablet too often. After having run benchmarks for a while, I now have a little light spot 3×3 mm on the screen, in the area, where CPU is located. It’s seen on white background only.

 

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Anton]

My keyboard and Pen ordered on 11 Nov where finally shipped yesterday from Gearbest.

So if you are ready to wait 3-4 or more weeks but economize nearly 15 USD – Gearbest is the right way.

[Anton]

Limited offer of Teclast x2 Pro 64GB on Gearbest for 350 USD, Teclast x2 Pro 128GB on Gearbest for 461 USD (seems, it’s better to change SSD by yourself:))

http://www.gearbest.com/tablet-pcs/pp_252601.html

KB + Pen = 50 USD

But, according to my own experience of buying KB + Pen on Gearbest, the availability of stock on the website doesn’t represents the real readiness to dispatch the item to you (personally, mine is not shipped even after 2 weeks).

 

[Author]

Posts