fan mod for a fanless ultrabook

fan mod for a fanless ultrabook

TechTablets Forums Jumper Discussion EZBook series fan mod for a fanless ultrabook

This topic contains 17 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  Chupa 8 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #144810

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    My Jumper 3s just gets too hot in the summer with surrounding temps near 30ºC.
    It sits now on a cooling plate on my lap but I want the compact size without the cooling pad in hot surrounding temps.

    So I plan do do a fan mod.

    Ordered
    6mm thick 5v aluminum fan
    50ºC temp switch
    2mm thick m.2 pure copper heat sink with vent grooves

    the m.2 heat sink will be shortened and glued (tape) direct on the processor
    the temp switch will be connected to the copper heat sink and switch on the fan if 50ºC are reached.

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    1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

    #144824

    Sx C
    Participant
    • Posts: 113

    i really doubt that you will have any room to mount the fan.

    anyway considering that the ezbook doesnt really overheats much i guess what you meant that it heats up too much at the one point on your lap?

    if that is so there are a couple of ways to go about it, the easiest is to just strips of clear tape on the part where you lap will be, the cpu will probably rise a few degree but should still be in acceptable range. The other way is to line copper foil on the inside of the bottom shell so that the heat will be dispersed slightly before reaching the outer shell.

    #144850

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    there is more than ample space in the 3s

    Then i did all he heat improvement mods possible but it is a closed system what can only radiate heat through the shell

    the problem is in a 28ºC =82F environment you have not enough heat radiation to keep the ultrabook reasonable cool when running around 10 watt power usage.

    As I measure the bottom of my Jumper 3s it is at 47ºC =116F and that on skin is just getting quite too warm fast.

    so for now a cooling pad does the trick, but I will install a fan for summertime and high power 10-15W usage.

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    1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

    #145156

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    Already got my fan and started the mod work
    power comes from the usb2 port
    Bottom plate closes properly without pressure on the fan
    Fan fits perfect and the air is directed exactly at the hot spots (processor  memory etc.

    Sadly I got a defect fan but I do now what will work and how the setup will be.
    Oh and I discovered the 3S has a hidden on/off tip switch what does the same as the power button does on the keyboard. It sits next to the SD reader.
    So my Jumper will get a correct on / off button and the keyboard one will be disabled.

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    1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

    #145171

    Chris G
    Keymaster
    • Posts: 2646

    Looks good, shame the fan is faulty after all of that.

    So you will mod in a slide switch to the turn it on and off instead of the button on the keyboard?

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    #145172

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    no it is a tip switch, just need to make a hole and insert a little plastic stent as an extender.
    The power button, what is disabled by default, will get  piece of plastic inserted to prevent pressing down, then the power button function will be re-enabled.
    I might replace the whole keyboard with a bluetoot, but in exact the same space the old was. Will involve some case work.
    My only concern was loosing the power button since a bluetooth kb does not have one. But hat problem is now solved.
    (I just hate looking at the kb stickers, it looks crappy.)
    The BT KB is 3mm thick when the BT electronic and battery hump is removed
    the BT electronic fits inside the Jumper and the 3V can be grabbed from the 5V line and reduced.

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    1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

    #145235

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    The most micro fans have a thickness from at least 7mm to 10mm.
    The one I have chosen is below 5mm at the frame and 6.4 mm on the motor hub.
    Was advertised with 4.8mm plus 1mm for the hub. So it would have been below 6mm.
    Sadly it included a very old 0.3mm sticky tape where the removable plastic strip had fused with the sticky tape.
    It took 10 minutes to remove this crap only later to find out the fan was dead anyway – well played Murphy.
    As it turns out even with the sticky tape in place the bottom plate of the Jumper 3S would close without touching the fan.
    I tried to mount the fan in the Thompson also, and if fit in dimensions…
    BUT the Thomson has a too flat bottom plate and it could not close properly without modification, also the Thomson has 2 USB3 ports and there is is not enough space between the soldering points for me to make a connection. So I would have to find another 5V access point.

    But there is hope in form of a just 3mm thin 17×17 mm tiny fan. The other fan is 35×35 mm.
    Since it can run from 3.3V-5.5V and uses only 0.03A -0.06A (0.1W- 0.33W) it can be even connected directly to a battery cell (3.5-4.3V with 0.2W and below)
    Here is a picture of this little marvel.

    With just a bit of a modification of removing 1.5mm (the dark marked area) you have a 3mm thin 90 degree directional fan.
    It should fit nicely where the old bottom speakers were located in the EZBook 3 before they moved back to the lid.
    In the Thompson I can mount it directly as shown in the 3S picture above.
    Search for fan UF5H5-503 if you are interested.
    It is around 7.50 Euro shipping included.

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    1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

    #145251

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    got my 2mm copper heat sink.
    first thing I did was file down a corner to verify it is 100% copper.
    it is.
    Here you have an idea how the fan works with the heat sink together in the Jumper, but I doubt I get them both so close together.
    But it is a very good fit from the size of the air stream canal and the heat sink dimension.

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    #145816

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    Oh the fun never ends…
    I ordered another 7mm flush fan and it turns out it has also the fan hub sticking out.
    So instead of the 7mm what would be a tight but manageable fit i have a 7.8 mm fan what can not flush mounted.
    I put some 1.2mm  plastic around so the spindle would not touch anything but now the jumper will not close anymore.
    I will go directly to dispute to get my money back.

    Looking further for something to fit into the flat Thomson (same dimensions as jumper 3 pro), I discovered a 3 to 4 mm flat sideways blowing fan.
    I think it is 3 mm thick, just the little bar over the axis adds another 1 mm

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    #145916

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    OK, got the right fan and started working on it.
    plan was to suck the air from behind the fan and blow it to the front directly over the processor.

    To make a long story short, one and a half day later I found out pretty much what all you can do wrong if you try it yourself.

    – tested the slim fan out of the Jumper and it was kind of quiet
    – the moment I tried to put the lid (bottom plate) on (lid still half a hand wide open) the fan noise changed from near quiet to a dentist turbine
    – lifting the lid a bit more and it gets quieter again
    – closing the lid and it whines like a dentist turbine drill again
    – WTF???
    – testing the temp under load and no dropping in temperature visible.
    – Now you think: Stupid the hot air has to have an exit, and you are right. But what you could not know I already modified the bottom with 5 air vent slits and had the whole back (the area behind the lid already perforated with big 10 big holes. I did this a couple months ago to improve air flow in the closed case, but the air liked it better inside….
    – Ok this does not work, so I drilled 2 hole circles in the bottom where the fan sits, now it can suck air from outside the computer and blow it over the processor…
    – meh, the dentist drill noise gets more acceptable but still irritating. But now it should cool better, YES?
    – NOPE! OK I remove the thin copper cooling plate and replace it with the grooved copper heat sink. Jumper gets even hotter. Now I had to cut of some of the 2mm grooved full copper heat sink so it fit on the processor and was no sitting on anything higher in the surrounding motherboard.
    – I put the grooved copper heat sink and the copper cooling plate on the scale and I could have sworn the 2 mm grooved copper is heavier than the plate, but I was mistaken. 15 g for the full grooved copper, 9 g for the cut of bit and 26 g for the plate.
    – back to the plate, removed the 0.5 mm copper shimmy and repasted the plate direct on the processor. It gets too hot
    – ARGH!
    – I finally throw in the towel with the dentist turbine like fan and try the taller fan. Since there is no way to close the lid because of the blade axle sticking out 0.8mm and I already have holes in my bottom plate, I make one big hole. Try if the lid can close and it does, BUT not only the axle tricks out the fan blades also are a tiny fraction above the case and make unpleasant noise when I try to close the lid.
    – OK drill the opening from 26 to 29 mm not a problem since I got myself a cone shaped drill from 6 to 32 mm. Move the fan a bit around to fit exactly the hole and turn on. ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff is the soft sound I hear. The noise is noticeable but more than OK to tolerate.
    – How is the cooling going? Still shitty
    – Well then we need to fix the air output so it has to pass the processor to escape. Glue gun seals the bottom lid slits and the 10 bottom rear holes. The side where the air should escape and the power plug sits gets 3 3mm holes as air vents. Testing and warm air is blown out of the new vents, but cooling still sucks.
    – wait, I also have 10 rear holes in the top part where all is mounted. And since air is like water and always uses the easiest route, I need to close the 10 top vents also. I do that with window seal foam tape. Still not good. warm air gets blown out with enough force to blow out a lighter but still not the expected cooling.
    – Screw that, I pack the 2 mm grooved copper cooler on top of the copper plate directly over the processor. It has a sticky tape and bonds well as it did when I placed it directly on the processor.
    – Yay this seems to work but still not what I want. I remove the copper plate and clean the paste then put the original soft pad on the processor. Why you ask? Well a plate, no matter how exactly manufactured can never be 100% level to the processor and the soft pad can fill slight angles and other imperfection better than paste in my case. I try again and been proven right. Better cooling.
    – But still it should work better, so I also add the second cut off grooved copper piece on top of the copper plate.
    – This actually works well without a fan. But remember we have still 27 to 29 degrees inside and the Jumper still gets warm when youtubeing in 720p. So I switch on the fan to cool it down and the temp does not go down but warmer air is blown out through the vents.
    This makes no sense to me.
    – Back to the drawing board. How can we improve the air flow that it goes just where I want it. We need a closed air duct. Well I have some foam strips left and try out a couple different designs. I end up with a totally closed system even with double high stripes behind the fan. Also I increase the 3 3mm holes to 5 3mm holes and the foam barrier ends directly after the holes.
    – Works better but still no where I want to be. Hmmm what is still wrong? Well why should the air flow through the grooved 2mm  copper when it had a way to pass by left and right. OK fair enough. The glue from the grooved copper is really good bonding but I pry it loose after a while and arrange that the grooved copper blocks now the entire air path and the air is now forced through the copper cooler.
    – Success, one and a half day to figure out to do a proper air cooling. It woks now so well that for the most parts the Jumper is OK and when the bottom gets a bit warm it is cooled to normal in less than a minute.
    – An old fly swatter is cut down to have a temporary vent cover.
    – For now I had enough with the tinkering, so the automatic temp switch stays in the closet to be added later.

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    #145958

    Chris G
    Keymaster
    • Posts: 2646

    Thanks for the updates I’ve been following them. You certainly have moded it a lot. The battery wear is about normal if it’s been used a lot on the battery that is.

    Chris | Admin
    Please support us and help keep TechTablets online. Affiliate revenue is used to pay for the server, studio apartment (Techtablets HQ) and buy new tech to review. Without it, this site would be dead.
    Next up for review:
    Ordered and waiting for my: Teclast X6 Pro, X4 and UMIDIGI S3 Pro
    Currently testing: FIMI X8 SE 4k drone, Chuwi Lapbook Pro & 2 x Lenovo laptops 🙂

    #145967

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    Well if you do shitty work….

    Remember picture j2 from above, where I show you how I covered the soldered wires with shrinking tube for insulation?
    Well when I changed the slim fan to the taller fan it had little plugs on the end where i just inserted the wire from the power cables.
    Then I shrunk tubed it to make it secure and wrapped with tape. In the evening after covering the fan opening the trouble started.
    Sometimes the fan stopped working – GRRRRRRRRRR
    If I held the Jumper in another direction (tilting) the fan would  run again.
    Yes MURPHY’S LAW I know…

    In the night I got the idea how about making the fan even more quiet with a resistor in line.
    I already canibalized a led chain battery box to get the switch and there also was a resistor in the box for the led’s.
    This morning I tested with the resistor in line and it went from 220mA down to 150mA and the fan went from kind of quiet to quiet.
    Remember the case is open when I did this, so it will get louder when the case is closed.
    While the Jumper was open I drilled 2 more 3mm holes at the corner and directly next to the power plug led.
    Why? Because yesterday in bed I accidently covered my 4 main exhaust openings and with just 1 left on the corner area that cooling system is not working good.
    Closing the case and turning the fan on – AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH pure bliss. It should be around 22 to 25 dBa.
    Checking the power usage several times via Battery Bar there was a good 1 Watt increase with the fan switched on.
    With is power consumption and ultra low noise level I think it will be seldom switched off.

    I had a little niggle with the fan switch, what looked not too nice sticking out and also had some pointy corners.
    A heated over the gas flame 7mm glue stick got a round top and a 3mm drill made a hole deep enough for the entire switch.
    Look, feel and operation of the switch was satisfactory improved.

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    #145984

    Sx C
    Participant
    • Posts: 113

    you will probably get much better thermal performance with a proper centrifugal blower style fan, the fan you are using looks more like a axial fan that has been lightly adapted to work like a blower fan.

    The CFM and more importantly static pressure is nowhere near what you need it to be in a enclosed environment.

    #146108

    Chupa
    Participant
    • Posts: 885

    well if you find a 7mm or lower centrifugal fan what is not more than 35mmx35mm let me know.
    and with a fan sized intake hole and 7 3mm holes for heat exhaust it is not much different from all laptop cooling systems, except I save the heat pipe and bring the cold air directly over the added processor copper heat sink and then it is guided directly to the exhaust holes.

    With a slight gap in the foam barrier behind the m.2 I can even divert a little amount of outside air to blow over the m.2 what as a 512GB with 500/500 speed gets quite warm too when used for some time.

    Need Help?
    1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

    #146716

    Francesco
    Participant
    • Posts: 28

    This thread is really interesting, thumbs up @chupa for the quality content

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