Dutchy

Dutchy

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Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • #75627
    Dutchy
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    • Posts: 13

    Thanks. I’ll try to find one.

    5 GHz is, BTW, often abbreviated to 5G. Technically incorrect but what can you do?  Soon enough 5G mobile internet will be adding to the confusion. I think we’ll survive, though… 😉 5GHz Wifi is usually AC, isn’t it? Nowadays at least… Just to complicate things…

    #72812
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    Haven’t checked if this is the same as was posted here earlier, but the Touchpad Helper app in this solution works for me! No more accidental minimizing of apps! Yes, it’s a resident program, but it’s worth it! Shame on chuwi for letting this exist in the first place.

    http://forum.chuwi.com/thread-3877-1-1.html

    Follow the link to the Hi10 thread. Works the same.

    #72808
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    Well, it’s working as well as expected after recalibration. Touch is accurate.

    However, sad to report I could find no such thing for Android, I’m afraid.

     

    Now for that touchpad. Very frustating that apps just disappear all the time because I am working to close to the top edge of the touchpad.

    #69491
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    I did! A repair shop was able to clean the contacts and bend one back that had bent the other way. After that the touch still didn’t work, but then I re-installed the driver and voila! It works!

    But just do it the right way, then you don’t have to go through all that.

    #69476
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    Tablet PC settings. WOW. I didn’t even think it could do that.

    I’ll see about Android later.

    This thing is getting better by the day.

     

    Sorry about yours, BTW, Christopher. Shitty thing about not getting support. I sort of calculated that in when I bought it. It is for a special purpose: controlling a Behringer digital mixer with touch capability. It doesn’t need to do much else, so I looked for a cheap solution that would fit the bill. This one is perfect for the job, except for the touch gestures minimizing the app. Will look at that next. But I knew beforehand that it could be a dud. Or broken. And that it would be hard to get it fixed. Up until now I’ve been lucky.

    There’s just one thing else… When replacing the screen one speck of dust got in. It is irritating the hell out of me… Getting it out could make things worse… But it is so irritating…

    #69338
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    Happy to report that a repair shop could clean and reposition the contacts in the connector.

    Digitizer still didn’t work, but re-installing the Goodix drivers did the trick! I now have a fully functioning hi12 again!

     

    #69336
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    My motherboard is slightly different than yours in layout. The component in mine at the same spot has the numbers 4061 – 1616. The component near the lower USB port, just visible on the upper right corner in your picture has the same number on my board, but is in a slightly different place. On your picture it is number 4061 – 1547.

    Good luck.

    #67329
    Dutchy
    Participant
    • Posts: 13

    Thanks for the offer, Chris, but I’d rather not buy one used. Mainly because shipping will probably exceed the part cost.

    Anyway, I ordered one from aliexpress. This one:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=502518695226508&productId=32797182268

    It looks the same as the original, has the same numbers, does not include the adhesive tape for sticking it in place, though, so I’m waiting on that to glue it in.

    But I am very fearful, because while disassembling I was very careful, yet still the flatcable had come loose.

    I had no idea how it was constructed, so I took the blowdryer to the thing to loosen the glass and pry it off first. That worked, but I couldn’t access the motherboard. Had to take out the chassis, four screws and unclick it all around to take out. I guess, as careful as I was, the flat cable still got stressed so far that it got pulled from the connector. The little black lever on the connector was flat, but it fell off as soon as I, again very carefully, flipped it open. So now it doesn’t hold on to the cable anymore. The lever hinges on the connector, it looks as if the lever is still intact, but where it hinges on connector is pulled out in towards the back. So not upwards. I can’t figure how I could have broken it. In this HI12 all but one flatcable connector have glue on the ends. I saw some gut shots of others that didn’t have that.

    I’ve inserted the flatcable and taped it in place, but the screen did not respond when I tried. Don’t know what to do. soldering a new connector is way outside my capabilities.

     

    I’m not new to electronics repair, opened up my iPad and several notebooks without problems. Even resoldered a surface mount resistor that had been knocked off of a graphics card.

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