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November 7, 2016 at 2:10 pm #56552
You can install Windows 10 in whatever language you want after erasing all data on the SSD and it will activate automatically as soon as you connect to the Internet.
P.s. it works like that for any PC that has a regular Windows 10 license.
November 6, 2016 at 11:25 am #56464Just create a USB Windows 10 installation media with the official utility from Microsoft, and when the installation is done manually install the drivers that you downloaded from techtablets.
It will work like a charm, I’ve done it.
October 15, 2016 at 9:35 pm #54986Ok, thanks for the feedback, did you also have the chance to try a smaller hard drive?
Ok, thanks for the feedback, did you also have the chance to try with a smaller hard drive?
October 10, 2016 at 2:46 pm #54596A question for the owners: are the two USB 2.0 ports capable of powering a large (2 TB or more) 2,5″ external hard drive?
September 6, 2016 at 3:51 pm #49035Sorry, I accessed with my Google account and replied with a different nick by mistake. The admin may remove this message.
The bad news: I noticed that the battery discarging rate that the tablet provides is not accurate at all, it seems to be only about 82% of the real discharging rate! For example, during the video test with brightness set at 25%, BatteryBar told that the battery was discharging at about -4.600 mW, but the real discharging rate was -5.600 mW. In fact, if you divide the battery capacity (about 41 Wh) for 5.600, you get about 7, that is the number of hours you can squeeze from the battery in that scenario. And it also seems that Windows 10 calculates its estimation of the battery runtime by using the average discharging rate, so if your battery is going to last 7 hours, it will tell you that you have about 10 hours left! That’s pretty annoying, I don’t know if it can be fixed by software (maybe with a BIOS update) or if it is an hardware issue.
Good observation but wrong conclusion. Actually the capacity of the battery is nowhere near 41 Wh (reality: 4200 mAh * 7.6V = 32 Wh). Use the correct capacity in the equation, and now you see that the discharge rate of 4600 mW matches closely with your observed runtime of about 7 hours. It would be very surprising if the discharge rate were incorrect, since that is actually *measured*. BatteryBar should eventually recalibrate the capacity based on actual power released and replace that ridiculous 41 Wh estimate by the real value. (For those who care — a Li-ion cell ranges from about 4.3V at full charge to 3.6V at about 2% charge remaining, with two batteries in series the voltage is twice that. The voltage also doesn’t decrease linearly with energy remaining, which results in the “average” voltage being a somewhat below the midpoint between 3.6 and 4.3V.)
Thanks for the clarification, in fact I also tought that the wrong capacity could have been the issue, but I forgot to mention it.
BatteryBar does not recalibrate the capacity, it still shows 42-43 Wh after about 10 charging cycles, but it still gives a correct estimation because it calculates (at least this is my conclusion) the average discharging rate by dividing the capacity (wrong) by the capacity drop rate (wrong, it is faster than it should be with a 41 mW battery and the given discharging rate), and not the total capacity (wrong) by the average discharging rate (correct), like Windows does.
So: Wrong/wrong = correct. 🙂
It is not a big deal, but I am wondering if it can be solved.
August 29, 2016 at 2:58 pm #48391Hi! Yes, I tweaked the tablet a little bit and tested it again, I have some good and bad news to share.
The good ones are that the BIOS, as everyone has noticed :-), has plenty of options, if you go into the CPU configuration section you can, for example, extend the available C-states to C10 (the default setting was C8, I don’t know why). That should extend the battery life while the CPU is idle (useful for web browsing, for example).
And you can also make an “hard” undervolt of the CPU, because there is also an overclocking section. I haven’t found an overclocking section dedicated to the GPU, unfortunately. I set an offset of -80 mV for my CPU, and it seems stable, also while gaming. Apart from this, all the other settings are set as recommended by the OP.
I didn’t run a full runtime test because I needed to use the tablet, but I estimated the battery duration by watching a 1080p HEVC movie for 30 minutes with the default Windows 10 video player, wifi off and wired earphones, and I’ve got slightly less then 7 hours with brightness set at 25% and six hours with brightness set at 50% (that’s a better setting if you really want to enjoy a movie, IMO). The estimation I made goes from 100% to 0%, so you have less useful time obviously.
The bad news: I noticed that the battery discarging rate that the tablet provides is not accurate at all, it seems to be only about 82% of the real discharging rate!
For example, during the video test with brightness set at 25%, BatteryBar told that the battery was discharging at about -4.600 mW, but the real discharging rate was -5.600 mW. In fact, if you divide the battery capacity (about 41 Wh) for 5.600, you get about 7, that is the number of hours you can squeeze from the battery in that scenario.
And it also seems that Windows 10 calculates its estimation of the battery runtime by using the average discharging rate, so if your battery is going to last 7 hours, it will tell you that you have about 10 hours left!
That’s pretty annoying, I don’t know if it can be fixed by software (maybe with a BIOS update) or if it is an hardware issue.
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