Andre

Andre

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Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • #29718
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    Help, anyone? How did you manage to reduce the voltage to 1.8V?

    #28393
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    I have resurected my bricked teclast x98 air II HG9M, make sure you use diod or voltage stabilizer from 3.3v to 1.8v on 8pin as our winbond chip operates on that voltage, some are lucky to restore bios with 3.3v voltage, but you need to do it fast, in my case 3.3v voltage just erased FW and I was unable to upload correctly it again, so used voltage stabilizer on 8pin wire between eeprom flasher and clip to chip, photos later ?

    I didnt manage to resurrect my bricked device. I used the USB bios chip reprogrammer, it succeded, but I still cannot boot my device. If you have any ideas about this, please post!

    How exactly did you manage to reduce the voltage to 1.8V? I need help with this; I’m even afraid I already fried the chip by trying once because I can’t get it to detect (though this could be because of the clip). Thanks a lot!!

    #28388
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    How exactly did you manage to reduce the voltage to 1.8V?

    #28251
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    Can anyone confirm if it’s fine to flash at 3.3v? Because I intend to flash with a raspberry pi, which had pins that output at 3.3v or 5v. Some user on xda says it’s fine. What do you think?

    It can be done, but it comes with a risk as it’s not the intended voltage. When I fixed one of these I wanted to play it safe as I’m good with the software side of things, but I’d hate to have to replace the chip on a tablet.

    How did you end up down converting to 1.8v, if you don’t mind me asking?

    #27628
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    I had the very same problem. I’m flashing with flashrom through Raspberry Pi, instead of buying a CH341A. But I can’t get it to detect the BIOS. I can see two problems:

    1. I haven’t desoldered the battery wire. I read you had to do this, is it true?
    2. Also, the Raspberry Pi works at 3.3V like the CH341A. Is this a problem? (Have I burned my BIOS by flashing at 3.3V? :S)

    Or is it another thing? Please help, I really need my tablet back… 🙁

     

    #26689
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    Can anyone confirm if it’s fine to flash at 3.3v? Because I intend to flash with a raspberry pi, which had pins that output at 3.3v or 5v. Some user on xda says it’s fine. What do you think?

    #22755
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    I’ve finally solved this myself: the CUSTOM_CONFIG.INI files were not being copied by the TTT bat. I’ve manually copied them to C:\Program Files\Intel\MFT and now it works.

    #22751
    Andre
    Participant
    • Posts: 10

    I had that exact same screen coming up on mine when I tried to flash Mirek’s v6.1 rom (air ii version) to my Air III. After trying five times and getting the same thing on the screen, I realised downloaded TechKnight’s version of the MFG and it worked. TechKnight had a slightly different PID (or SID… one of them) to the ones that were written in the official Teclast tutorial in Chinese. Once that PID (or SID) changed, it worked and flashed successfully.

    Can you tell me what PID and SID you used?

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

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