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Paolo wrote:

I don’t know the reason are the 2.4 or 5 ghz band. But where I tried there are 2 connections 2.4 and one 5ghz. With the last drivers I could barely connect to those at 2.4 with a speed less than 0,5 Mbps and continuos disconnections. With old drivers I can see the 5ghz wifi and connect. So, the wifi range has been extended with old drivers. I’ve just read somewhere, maybe in one thread of this forum, that there is an issue between a WIN update and the newest drivers for the wifi adapter of these pcs. Then, maybe this is the biggest problem: imcompatibility of the drivers with newest versions of WIN10.

5ghz has better range strength, so that’s probably it/probably the issue I mentioned. But I would be very keen to hear any more info or updates about this supposed Win10 compatibility issue you mentioned. Let’s keep each other posted.

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Just tried it, and not sure it’s any faster – but it might have a better range signal, which I didn’t test.

However, before I uninstalled the Pro drivers, I looked in the settings and noticed it was connecting on 2.4ghz, whereas in the Intel Pro Settings there is an option to force it to connect on 5ghz. Doing this instantly increased my connection speed from 150mbps to 300mbps, so maybe that’s the reason – as I noticed with the default windows drivers, it was connecting at 5ghz by default.

I mean really, I can’t think of any other reason that NEWER drivers would be worse (and don’t let Chupa see this comment as we all know what he’ll say about that()

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Paolo wrote:

Yes, I’m 100% sure. I was nearly purchasing an external wifi antenna for the frustration I was in. To roll back first uninstall the pro-set wireless software, then go to device manager, go to the Intel dual band wireless AC-3165, select driver and click on “uninstall device”. Finally, Win will install the first driver.

I was in a room poorly reached by the wifi signal, and the rollback gave me a boost on the connection. I’ve also used my Android phone as an external wifi antenna via USB and it worked great wen the last driver 20.06 was installed. But now I don’t need it anymore.

Just to confirm, you let windows install a driver? You didn’t use the driver from the DoubleDriver dump

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Paolo wrote:

I have installed ALL the WIN10 updates and the pc works perfectly.

One thing has to be said: DO NOT UPDATE MANUALLY THE DRIVERS FOR THE WIFI ADAPTER! I’ve tried 3 versions of the dirver and the one which actually works great is the one already installed, number 19.51.12.3 of 12/03/2018. I’ve tried the 19.6something and the 20.06 (the last I found in the Intel download pages) and the signal got weaker and weaker under the same connection on the same conditions, from nearly 20 Mbps, to 10 Mbps reaching less than 1 Mbps with the last driver. So I disinstalled the Intel pro-set wireless and the driver for the wifi adapter, and windows installed the first driver found in the pc and everything now is fine.

Wow, are you sure? Because I ran the Intel driver utility thing and also had it install those Intel Pro-set wifi drivers, but mine seems ok (admittedly I am very close to my router though). so you think I should revert to the driver that came with the PC? Or what? Let windows install it’s own drivers???

If possible please respond by tomorow, as i’m going travleling and would love to get this sorted before then.

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This will drain battery faster though, right? Seeing as the CPU is working harder.

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Chupa wrote:

you have to figure that out for your model version and windows version
there are over 8 3 pro versions and as much windows 10 versions and the different behavior from 10 10 pro 10 enterprise 10 edu 10 ltb (next to no updates) etc

It became impossible to predict what model with what version behaves in which way.

It is a huge mess and grows bigger with every new versions. Now some pcs can not be updated and crash permanently until rolled back.

I locked my versions with 1703 and block all driver and windows updates on all win 10 laptops

Paranoia. If you don’t update then you don’t evolve. Windows 1803 works fine on most PCs, including these Jumpers.

Also I was asking you about how to turn off the power-drain e.g wake on lan, usb charging while off – but those settings are not dependant on the windows version. What are you actually talking about?

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Chupa wrote:

so 9V 2A works fine but don’t charge battery?

amazing

and, yes, I explained the slow discharge and how to stop it.

Sorry but you didn’t respond in that actual thread with exact details of how to do it, you just said it was possible.

Please enlighten us, uncle chupa! We are but retards.

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jose wrote:

I bought a charger 9v 2a and it works fine. maybe with this charger the battery does not degrade

Yes, me too, although I think it might still be losing some charge while power is off.

Soembody said you can turn off the ‘USB charging’ option and it will reduce this?

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Chupa wrote:

BUT you can activate charging through the usb port when the pc is off and then power is used and drained even if nothing is connected.
same is for wake up on lan or wifi

If what you’re saying is actually correct, then this might explain the power drain issues that we are having while it’s turned off.

What are all the settings that affect this, and where can we turn them off? Is it just the 3 things you mentioned? I believe the usb charging thing is in Windows somewhere, and the wake on lan/wake on wifi things are in the bios? No? Where are they?

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So you need a soldering iron to do this job??

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euplio wrote:

Cardoso wrote:

Today I’ve decided to take out the battery of my 3 pro and to no surprise one of the batteries is completely flat (see photo). The notebook’s working without the battery. Advise for a compatible battery would be appreciated. Thanks

I bought 2 of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/L552-3-7V-6000mAH-4212078-PLIB-Polymer-lithium-ion-Li-ion-battery-LG-cell-for/32531318879.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.72184c4dxm2CGP

Size is right and capacity is better than oem

I think you might be the first person here to sucessfully do this. I think you need to make a detailed write-up about how you did it, what tools you used, the process etc. Please.

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Hang on, I was under the impression that in the newer EZBook Pro 3’s, that a permanent change was no longer possible?

It sounds like if we use that file/run that command, you can effectively permanently increase the limit? Does the bios need to be flashed for that?

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Sascha wrote:

lations wrote:

I had success with it.

Just got my Samsung and installed it, restored Bios defaults … but it isn’t recognized.

When trying to boot from Win 10 USB Media, setup fails. With unplugged SSD setup is working.
When booting Linux Mint from USB, SSD is visible and can be partitioned, Installation of Linux Mint fails.

Do you have any additional settings in bios?

Thanks
Sush

I flashed/unlocked the bios first, but I honestly don’t think that made a difference as I don’t think I changed anything significant in the bios settings.

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Kantakye wrote:

I’ve opened my laptop Lithium polymer battery model:3282122-2S Nominal voltage: 7.6 V Charge limit voltage: 8.7 V Rated capacity: 4500mAh 32.4 Wh Manufacturer: Dongguan Nuowei Energy Co., Ltd Based in my electronics background theoretically we can use a charger that can provide 9Volts output and 2000mA. For sure internally there are some voltage converters that convert 12V to lower DC like 7,2 or 7.6 (nominal voltage). This means the laptop will charge around in 2h20m from 0 to 100%.

 

You’d want to be absolutely certain before doing that, in case you someone damage it.

Besides, it already charges reasonably fast with the stock charger.

 

One question, does your laptop lose charge while turned off?

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I had success with it.

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