[GarethRossUK]

I don’t think it would support such a thing it maybe possible but it isn’t worth the bother with six month battery life and AAAA batteries are easily found on eBay or Amazon for very low prices.

If it were recharchable it would be sold like this out of the box.

[GarethRossUK]

joegillian wrote:

hi !
i do Heatsink Mod but its still around 75C to 80C for any kind of crazy game like gta, dragon ball fighterZ and many more.
but its sepcaly hot when i touch the back side of the laptop…. its really burn my hands lol
Tf its the same for you so i think it’s normal….

for the batteriy life you got 8 hour? really ????? me it’s no more than 5h in normal use.
if i play game it’s around 3h30.

did you do something in Bios ? or you used something for improve your battery life ?

thanks again ! ?

Which heatsink mod did you perform? If the thermal pad is touching the underside of the metal case then this will move a lot of the heat to the underside and will get very hot as it acts as extension to heatsink. It is to be expected that if you did only a thermal pad mod for temperatures to be 10C less maybe in some cases only 5C less.

Check Intel XTU do you still hit thermal throttling ?

You will see many reviews on youtube also confirming 8 hour battery life is possible with lowered screen brightness. This is with web, email and other light usage.
i haven’t changed anything in bios or used anything special just a lower screen brightness and when operating from battery choosing better performance mode not best performance.

Have you got the latest drivers for intel wireless and Bluetooth chips and latest intel hd graphics driver? intel driver support assistant download that and make sure you have latest drivers.

please let me know which thermal mod you performed and did you remove or cut down the black sheet that is on the underside of the case at the bottom?

[GarethRossUK]

left side also gets very hot for me i have not tried the back as i use a cooling stand with high air flow fan.
without knowing what games you play i cant say how well that compares to my peak temperatures.
Ive only tried really demanding games such as gta5, ryse son of rome, gta4, overwatch, halo online, sea of thieves.

battery life if 5 hours for gaming is great and far better than you’d expect.
i get 8 hours with normal browsing and 70?% brightness.

[GarethRossUK]

it only uses AAAA battery with 6 month life.

[GarethRossUK]

This sounds more of a preference. I’m happy the way it is but you could try some software that may swap the keys around or complete auto function key lock.

[GarethRossUK]

I’m glad I have helped to find the cause, now where is this power setting located that’s the key.
I can suggest an extreme solution for myself to backup the complete registry and someone apply this, but I’m concerned that this may contain other data that must not be shared such as software registered keys.

[GarethRossUK]

Loirt wrote:

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check this as soon as I’m home. I remember there is also an issue with the popping sound. That is also causes by the power state. I will check if I can apply that fix for this issue as well. Hopefully I have the answer today, so I don’t have to restore a clone. Maybe someone else can check it in the meanwhile.

I couldn’t get the regedit file when applied to fix the sound only changing the values manually fix this but I will upload this data too I’ve done a cleaner fix on the install now.

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e96c-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0007\PowerSettings]
"ConservationIdleTime"=hex:1e,00,00,00
"PerformanceIdleTime"=hex:ff,ff,ff,ff
"IdlePowerState"=hex:ff,ff,ff,ff

Changing those values for the realtek speaker driver will fix the sound pop i think before i changed more values than were required.

[GarethRossUK]

https://www.sendspace.com/file/qbba23

Check you share the same driver key if you do then double click this or open within regedit it will overwrite the values. Restart and check the power data for the driver in device manager.

If this has worked and values did contain power data then you will find the base as well as the screen are identical power values of D0 and you will have it working!

[GarethRossUK]

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{5175d334-c371-4806-b3ba-71fd53c9258d}]
"Class"="Sensor"
"ClassDesc"="@%SystemRoot%\\system32\\SensorsCpl.dll,-10000"
"IconPath"=hex(7):25,00,53,00,79,00,73,00,74,00,65,00,6d,00,52,00,6f,00,6f,00,\
  74,00,25,00,5c,00,73,00,79,00,73,00,74,00,65,00,6d,00,33,00,32,00,5c,00,53,\
  00,65,00,6e,00,73,00,6f,00,72,00,73,00,43,00,70,00,6c,00,2e,00,64,00,6c,00,\
  6c,00,2c,00,2d,00,31,00,00,00,00,00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{5175d334-c371-4806-b3ba-71fd53c9258d}\0000]
"DriverDesc"="Kionix KXCJ9 3-axis accelerometer Display"
"ProviderName"="Kionix"
"DriverDateData"=hex:00,40,ff,f0,30,8e,d2,01
"DriverDate"="2-24-2017"
"DriverVersion"="1.0.0.26"
"InfPath"="oem29.inf"
"InfSection"="MyDevice_Install.NT"
"MatchingDeviceId"="ACPI\\KIOX010A"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{5175d334-c371-4806-b3ba-71fd53c9258d}\0000\kxjhinge]

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{5175d334-c371-4806-b3ba-71fd53c9258d}\0001]
"DriverDesc"="Kionix KXCJ9 3-axis accelerometer Base"
"ProviderName"="Kionix"
"DriverDateData"=hex:00,40,ff,f0,30,8e,d2,01
"DriverDate"="2-24-2017"
"DriverVersion"="1.0.0.26"
"InfPath"="oem29.inf"
"InfSection"="MyDevice_Install.NT"
"MatchingDeviceId"="ACPI\\KIOX020A"

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{5175d334-c371-4806-b3ba-71fd53c9258d}\0001\kxjhinge]

[GarethRossUK]

I can now confirm what goes wrong!

Power states, that’s what I said 10 days ago!

Changing the driver won’t do it, the power state is within the registry. I did search the driver key in registry for manual changes of the power state to force D0 but this setting isn’t to be found.

As I stated before D3 is what you will find in the base after clean install and as suspected this should be D0 like the screen which is correctly D0. I feel Teclast need to release a fix for all customers and I’m unsure what needs to be changed to enforce D0 state.

See power data in device manager > sensors > base > details > power data if you have D3 then this is certainly the cause it is switched off and should always be D0 to be on. This requires either me to clone the registry for the driver in the hope that the settings restore even though power states are not seen in the registry for this device. Or if someone shows me how to find Intel(R) Serial IO I2C Host Controller – 9D60 in the registry I will clone this data.

 

I did request back on the 27th for anyone with this working to check power data but I didn’t get a response to this but this does seem the simplest solution.

 

You will find it interesting to note also the hxjhinge values, this is certainly the correct driver to be located in regedit. To confirm this yourself you’ll need the driver key value and find within regedit not everyone may have the same driver key though I believe they are identical I wont take responsibility for any damage if you don’t check the values.

 

 

[GarethRossUK]

Anonymous wrote:

Dear all, thanks for all your efforts you’ve already spent with this issue! I’ve experiencing exactly the same thing: Did a fresh install and everything (including screen rotation) works properly except for the automatic hinge position detection for switch to tablet mode and deactivate touchpad and keyboard. I’ve played around a lot with all the different ideas you’ll find when searching the net for such issues, however nothing worked yet. My personal guess is either there is a specific additional driver required which is not downloaded by Windows automatically and also not included in the driver package here, or there is a problem with driver configuration (probably via Registry). I thought it would be a an option at first place to check if the hinge sensor is present at all. This could be done via the Microsoft Sensor Diagnostic Tool (https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/sensors/the-sensor-diagnostic-tool) which is included in the WDK (https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/download-the-wdk). Unfortuately I can’t get this tool running as it doesn’t start at the F6. I’d appreciate if I could possibly together with you contribute in investigating the real issue to finally get it fixed somehow, even on a fresh install. Thanks and best, Tom

 

That just reminded me of the findings I made before creating an out of the factory ssd clone I noted something interesting in the power state and I have just possibly found the cause. I’ll try to see if I can pull this information now and release a one step fix today.

No drivers are missing if it is driver related it is in the registry.

[GarethRossUK]

pipolitoto wrote:

In fact the clone of the system must make at the start of the tablet whith a perfect system. My process is:

That’s exactly what I have uploaded. It’s from out of the factory, as you say the start of the life of the notebook / tablet.

[GarethRossUK]

I’ve got a clone of the factory Windows 10 image that Teclast provided it’s undergoing testing with credit to Loirt for trialing this clone of the Win 10 out of factory SSD image.

The loose of tablet functionality with keyboard and touchpad turning off only appears to be an issue if you don’t clone the original SSD installation.

If you do a clean install without original installation being used you will always loose tablet functionality. Unless you have found something that restores tablet function even after a clean install?

Creating an image after the functionality is lost wont bring it back, you’d need an out of the factory cloned image of the SSD or just after installation but at this point a clean install becomes invalid so an out of the factory clone like the one I’ve created is the only sure way to keep this.

A repair disc may possibly hold this information but again you’d need to create this before doing a clean installation before you loose again tablet functionality.

Unless you know something different on how to recover this function of the tablet with keyboard and touchpad disabled when keyboard is folded?

[GarethRossUK]

Loirt wrote:

GarethRoss, one question. I downloaded the image. Can I simply place this image on a usb? Or do I need to create an image out of these files first? I already created a Clonezilla USB. So can I copy the files to another USB and start restoring that image?

From what I understand the files just need to be in a folder ideally with the same name as the ZIP files were in just without the part number and the .zip These files should be ready to use when extracted.

If you have problems extracting use 7zip.

[GarethRossUK]

Loirt wrote:

I have received the message. I will download the files today and try to get it to work this weekend. Hopefully everything will work in a few days! If I have some questions, I will come back to you ;). Thanks for the image and all the work you have done! I will let you know in a few days if I get everything to work!

What ever happens don’t worry I will if this one fails to work a working clone will be uploaded. I’ve got everything I need to keep trying to get a shared clone available. It’s important for everyone with the F6 Pro to have a copy of this so if you ever have a failed SSD or need to start from scratch with the SSD without the clone we would it seems loose our tablet functionality.

[Author]

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