[robert wisdom]

The only time I had any twinkles was when I put too big of a heatsink over the processor and when I closed it up, the back cover pushed up against the heatsink and caused some artifacts to display.

You could try reinstalling windows.

[robert wisdom]

As far as routers go, this guy’s my hero http://forgotfun.org/2016/03/NAND-Programmer.html

Nand programming is so cool.  He’s also doing some ram modifications with routers, swapping out sizes 128 to 256 and types and modifying the nand to properly accept the ram, with modified cfe and firmware, of course.  It’s the same principle with these tablets.  I have done very limited nand programming as an engineer with xyratex international.  Done some cmos/bios flashing and programming too.  I’ve used a programming tool that flashes cmos/bios chips with light, very cool, interesting concept, you put the chip in there, hop on the computer, select the file, hit enter, and in the blink of an eye a beam of light programs the chip, any size chip.  I don’t really understand it.  The engineers who designed that method of flashing are way beyond by intellectual capacity. lol.  Its actually quite similar in concept to the nand programming tool that these guys from forgotfun are using.

I’m limited to design and engineering of rack-mountable, enterprise-class, 2, 3 and 4u sans, nas and various other fiber-channel and sas storage arrays.  I’m forced to have my electronic gadget fun elsewhere and the data storage units are boring.  There are some with 4 – 8 core xeons (cpus, lol) and 16, 16gb fb-dd4 ecc ram modules, 48 1tb ssd, configurable in any raid array you’d like to choose, with 2 16x pci-e raid controllers (do the math, lol), leaving you with 32 processor cores (64 with hyperthreading) with symmetrical multi-processing, 256gb of ram and 48tb of disk space on 16gb fiber channel (controller cards distribute via backplane) or sas, and 10gb ethernet (whoa man, that’s highly frickin’ available dude), also has 2 hot-swappable 1200 watt psus.  Thing does pretty well, as far as energy consumption, you should have seen it when it had conventional hard-drives and socket 604 xeons, what an energy pig.  I actually have a couple dual quad core xeons with 12 – 2 tb drives and 64 gb ddr3 ram.  They run pretty good, fairly fast, and there’s room to put a 16x graphics card, but not practical unless you have a rack.

Sorry admin, way off topic.

[robert wisdom]

Here is the guide to using gparted on the x98 pro and resizing the partitions AFTER ANDROID AND WINDOWS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED: http://bbs.teclast.com/thread-520084-1-1.html .  Its really easy, and I’m not the only one who has done it, psss…..there’s a guide.  Just playing man, it is very easy, I would suggest resizing after android is installed and before windows is installed, but now that there’s a modified gpt.bin, you can play around with resizing without the need for gparted.  It does come in handy after you’ve already installed both operating systems, and you go, DOH!, I want to change the sizes without jacking everything up.  It does work, and it will give you better idea of how all the partitions are made up and where they are placed and where the windows partitions are installed….. and how to make or modify your own windows installation script, with whatever version you choose, the drivers and all the software you want, pre-installed, all in the available freespace, without destroying android, and also, leaving addtitional free space, for, say, a third operating system…NO WAYYYY!!!!, that’s too crazy dude (please notice that “too” is spelled correctly, this may be an indication that you are conversing with someone who has eclipsed the majority of modern society, and in all earnestness, put forth the fourth grade education, (from which I learned when to properly use, “too” and “to”, and went further ((than most are able to comprehend and retain)) by actually remembering any of my education before high school, lol) , ARE YOU SERIOUS!!!!   Seriously, its just a computer, believe it or not, you can put any operating system you choose on it, including, android x86_64 (even 6.0.1, if you wanted to), cyanogenmod 12.1 (I’m having issues with cm 13’s drivers, it does load though, but the kernel and the drivers aren’t getting along….yet, MIUI, ubuntu, mint, ximer…. I mean remix (jk, did you catch that), phoenixOS, as long as the uefi (which ever you choose) is correctly setup, the sky is the limit, and the 64gb of space, lol, but, don’t forget about the elusive thumb drive.

I can get my surface pro3, surface 3 and my venue to boot off of the micro sd card (sp3 and venue both are i5), but I have yet to get grub or clover to properly address the micro sd card (internal, obviously).  I think if I modified the bootup script to mount the sd card, then let it pause to check the volume and initialize the file system, that it might be able to boot from it. Its perplexing though, that the surfaces and the venue don’t have any issues whatsoever booting from the sd card.  But I am only running remix on those 3 devices.  I have monkeyed around with android x86 and a cyanogenmod modified version, but they are not as refined as remix, because, everything, I mean everything works on remix.  accelerometer,  bluetooth, wifi (2.4 and 5), external keyboard and touchpad, brightness, surface’s and venue’s pens, the windows buttons next to the screen, vibration, the cameras, the battery meter, the volume buttons, the ambient light sensors, sleep, sleep on closing the screen, 10 point multi-touch, (in the case of the surfaces) pressure sensitive touch with the pens.  I think nfc works on them too, but I haven’t tried it.

Sorry, didn’t mean to go off on a tangent.  I spend the majority of my time on chinese forums, as they have more to offer in terms of development.  I really like this site, and I’ve found some excellent posts, but there is so much more nonsensical, obliviously incoherent absurdities within some of the posts, that it makes it difficult to find posts that contain intellectually stimulating and objective development and education, with a small amount of conjecture without needless obligatory remarks.

It’s nice though, when you find a piece of software, (even if its in chinese), that allows you to load all the operating systems, the software within them, the proper bootup procedure and efi loaders, and just about does everything automatically, that no english-speaking person has probably ever used, that works so perfectly and runs through all its scripts so concisely and methodically, that is leaves you feeling as if you’re cheating and starts to leave you with a slight feeling of boredom, as if you’re obsessive nature, to load as many pieces of completely differing software and operating systems as you can, and have them all work, results in a feeling of euphoria, and then suddenly and without any warning, becomes so unbearably boring that you set the device aside, buy another one, and procede to do almost the exact same thing, with a completly different device, and set that one down, get another, and repeat.  Thus you end up with close to 20 desktops, all quad to octo-core, 14 or 15 laptops, most core i5 or i7, and, I think 15 or so tablets, probably less than 18 months old, all of which, you take down that same road, benchmark the crap out of them and tweak them all, until you just about have the top score with that particular device and you’ve loaded it up with so many different oses and software, everyone thought impossible, and then you set it down, forget about it and move on to the next….story of my life.:)  After about 2 years, it has to go though. too old, too slow, difficult to even turn on at that point.  Most of the devices I’ve bought were broken in one way or another, and I’ve repaired them…all.  Routers too.  I think I’ve only got 12 though…. 90% of them have koolshare’s firmware on them.  Its a modified asus ac88u firmware that has been stuffed with so many features its mind-boggling.  They have modified it to run on just about any newer router, I’ve got linksys, netgear and asus routers, all fairly new, all bought broken, non-functioning, all repaired, jtag or cfe emergency firmware loaded, or tftp forcibly firmware loaded and working as good (way better with this firmware) as new.

[robert wisdom]

You may be better informed if you went to the manufacturer’s forums, here is the link to the cherry trail forum: http://bbs.teclast.com/forum-107-5.html  You will discover that there are lots of other tools available, and they all work, I even have tools to load different versions of windows 10, before and after the android installation and a tool that loads both windows and android without user intervention.  I have other tools that will load whatever you choose by embedding the operating systems you choose within the various scripts.  The world is a very bid place and I think you have a lot more to discover.  This is a chinese table and being so, you’ll find way more development on chinese websites.  I do like this site very much though, I’m not taking anything away from it.  I could put the link that shows how to bootup gparted and modify the partitions to increase or decrease android’s available space and increase or decrease window’s space, if you would like.  It is on teclast’s manufacturer’s forums.  There is a wealth of information and tools available on that site, but most, if not all the tools are in chinese, so there may be a learning curve there too, the site is in chinese (obviously).  But google translate does a fairly good job.

Here is the guide to using gparted on the x98 pro and resizing the partitions AFTER ANDROID AND WINDOWS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED: http://bbs.teclast.com/thread-520084-1-1.html

When I first used gparted on this tablet, I resized the stock rom to a much smaller data partiton, I installed the stock rom, resized it to around 15gb, then I used a custom script to load windows 10 x64 enterprise (Its better to resize android before installing windows, because it may (or may not, never happened to me) run check disk at startup after resizing both android and windows (obviously after their installation).  After I had both operating systems installed and the size I wanted, I installed mireks rom over the stock rom, worked great (this was months ago).  Now, I am light years beyond this, but I don’t want to divulge all my secrets, lol (you can use a third party uefi bootloader on the “windows” side, it effectively allows you to boot into multiple operating systems, after the android/windows selection is made ((which I have disabled to speed up booting))).

[robert wisdom]

I’m sorry, you’re wrong, I’m using gparted live, from a usb drive, connected with a otg adapter.  Works perfect, no problems at all, actually works with the other 14 tablets I have also.  It is not done within windows, it is independent, and works great, it is a linux distro.  I’ve modified my tablets, many, many, many times.

[robert wisdom]

Mirek, you are totally awesome.  Bravo!  You have once again, outdone yourself.  Your commitment and dedication to constantly providing new and updated firmware is simply amazing.  Each time you release another revision, it has most issues fixed and has a ton of improvement packed in as well.  You must spend a lot of time testing, flashing, modifying, repeat.  If I had any money at all, I would donate to you.  Your rom is far superior to the stock rom or any other roms I have encountered.  I have yet to run into any issues with the latest rom, and, as usual, they just keep getting better and better with each revision.

Thanks again, and if there’s anything I can do to help with testing or whatever, let me know, I’m triple booting right now (with miui), and messing around with remix off a otg usb drive (effectively quad booting).

As far as the guy who wants android only, yes, you can do that fairly easily.  Install mirek’s rom.  Then put bootable gparted on a thumb drive, boot into it.  Be sure to have a keyboard and mouse hooked up too.  Then wipe out all windows partitions and windows bootloader (efi).  Now move the 3 partitions that separate the newly created free space with the android data partition.  Be careful, one of them is going to say that it isn’t movable (the persistent partition).  You need to change the partition type to “clear” and apply, then move it (and the other 2 that are movable without this step) to the right side of the free space, so that the free space and the data partition are next to each other.  Now you can extend the data partition using the free space, and your tablet will now use the entire 64gb for android.  You will notice though, that when going into android and looking at the storage, it still says the same amount as before.  But you will find that it does indeed, use the entire disk.  If you are expanding mirek’s and not the stock rom, you could run mirek’s installer again, and it will say the correct amount of space in storage after that, because mirek’s doesn’t flash the partition table, like the stock rom does.

I’ve done it, I’ve flashed so many roms, and put windows back on so many times, a dual, and triple, and quad booted, and wiped everything and started over, many, many times (for fun, lol).  If you go 100% android, you can go back to dual boot again, don’t worry, its no big deal. Just run the stock android installation and it will partition everything up for you and leave space for the windows installation too:)

In order to triple or quad boot, you will need clover, or grub2 or whatever other uefi bootloader you choose, installed, configured and pointing to the proper partitions to load the operating systems from whichever partitions you have the different operating systems installed, (I use gparted live) from the windows “side”.  It seems to work best that way for me, but I don’t have much experience with the “flashing procedure” of the partition table on the android side, or I’m sure it could be done that way too, and possibly also booted from the microsd card (as booting from a otg with usb flash drive obviously works).

[robert wisdom]

I’ve had that happen too.  I just rebooted to command prompt when windows rebooted into a “recovery mode”.  Then I inserted my usb drive with just a standard windows installation on it.  At the command prompt, I changed the drive letter to “d”.  I then ran setup.exe and installed windows from the command prompt and during the installation, I wiped out the hard drive (don’t do this if you want to save android though, you need to go with the stock installation script contained within the files downloaded from onda, you can do this if you keep getting stuck at 64% though and it will format the drive and install windows, you will need to load all the drivers though, or after the windows installation restarts ((after having formatted the drive)), start the android installation, let it complete, then run the onda windows installation.)))

worked for me (done it like 15 times)

[robert wisdom]

Yes, its possible, is it a baytrail-t soc?  I’ve flashed most flavors of android and put various versions of windows 10 on mine, even flashed ones that were designed for different versions of the tablet.  I haven’t run into any issues yet.  I would update your bios to the latest version though.  You could also try remix, but its a little harder to setup on these baytrails.  I would try to stock approach first.

[robert wisdom]

hey all, this is a safe method for everyone to update to dual os.

[robert wisdom]

Here is a backup of the bios I had (I made the backup with the aptio v efi bios tool) https://mega.nz/#!49FiFQII!Jv-FjkCdVSO9pcZqvOCQ3SqMqAoGSULIWTutLKx4AIg . It the one dated 12/31. It works fine. You will have to flash it through the efi shell. Here is intel’s 32 bit efi bios update tool fpt.efi https://mega.nz/#!JoURWSZJ!S3-PsC7PljwIsb-v9jxSV6kkLqrOkG7IFPwqfMcMYWw . Or you can use amibios’ aptio V version of the efi flashing tool available here: https://ami.com/download-license-agreement/?DownloadFile=AMIBIOS_and_Aptio_AMI_Firmware_Update_Utility.zip
I don’t recommend the dos or windows aptio v bios flashing tools, they’re prone to crash. I also don’t recommend the alpha bios released by chuwi, as its 64 bit (and the 12/31 version is 32 bit) and its very likely your tablet will become a paperweight after an attempt at flashing it. Put the files (unzipped, of course) on a flash drive (in the root of the flash drive, preferably), plug in your usb c otg or micro otg with usb c adapter (in my case) and enter the bios by hitting “del” at bootup. I turn quiet boot off, in the boot options and set the boot up to 3 second delay, for future use. Then go to the very right menu and select load efi shell from a usb drive (or something like that), it will load the efi shell, hit “esc” after a few seconds (when it says to hit “esc”), or it will reboot. Mount the usb drive by typing “fs3:”. Then type “fpt.efi -f backup.rom” (to flash via the intel method, provided the files are on the root of the usb, if not, just type ls and it will give you a directory list) or “afuefi.efi backup.rom” (to flash with amibios’ tool). After it completes (with both amibios and intel methods) it should reset, but if not, type “reset”, it will go into the bios and do the actual flashing at that point. I would recommend you backup your current bios with the amibios tool, by typing “afuefi.efi /O”, that’s an oh, not a zero, as I don’t want to be responsible if things do go well. It will backup the current rom to the root of the usb, or whatever folder you are currently in. In fact, I am not responsible, and this is done at your own risk and I would also highly recommend the battery be completely charged. I would also recommend the intel method of flashing the bios through the efi shell, as that is what the folks at chuwi do. Please backup the current bios and charge the battery first though.
Hope this helps somebody. Also, if your tablet is already borked, you can try, just putting the backup of the bios on a thumb drive, in the root of the drive and name it amiboot.rom . might work, might not, sometimes the naming of the rom differs, you will have to run Andy P’s SLIC tool from My Digital Life to be certain the name is correct. Most bios manufacturers have a secure boot portion of the bios that is protected and in instances of “total annihilation” of your bios, you can still recover because this secure boot portion of the bios will be “looking” for the rom on the primary usb port upon powering on.

[robert wisdom]

Hey all. Well, I ran into some issues when going into the bios and enabling all the options. I modified some of the graphics, cpu, power and a few other options, trying to up the performance. I changed the graphics to all to 512mb dedicated and I did a bunch of other setting like turning off the throttling and changing the ram to 1866mhz. Well after modifying enough stuff, my chuwi didn’t want to boot anymore. No more bios splash screen, no more nothing, except a kind of “lit” blackscreen. I did the hit the power button 3 times and then hold it and I hit a combination of the 2 buttons every way possible. I got it to boot up after about 30 minutes of messing around with it. I did flash the nvram with the amibios windows tool and rebooted, nada, still didn’t get any bios splash screen or windows. Tried the buttons for another 30 minutes, nothing. Then I grabbed my micro-hdmi to hdmi adapter and thought “why not, it probably won’t do anything, but I’ll try it”. I plugged it in, hit the power, my lcd lit up when I did, still no bios splash screen, but wham!, it booted right into windows. The tablet screen was not showing anything, but the external lcd was. Yippe! Now what do I do? Tried flashing the whole bios with the amibios tool, no go, crashes in windows. I had to change the bios back to defaults. I went to start-settings-updates-recovery, reboot to recovery, then I selected boot into uefi firmware settings, it rebooted, showed me the uefi bios first page for like 2 seconds and the external screen went black. WTF. I held down the power, then tapped it for about 2 seconds. After 15 to 20 seconds, I was back into windows on the external monitor. I said screw it, and I just rebooted from the logon screen, I kept hitting the del key and viola! I was in the bios on the external monitor with no hiccups. I hit optimized defaults and reset, saved, rebooted. Then I had the pleasure of seeing the bios screen on both the tablet and the external monitor, and the windows booting screen on both, then windows itself on both screens.

Moral of this story, it might not be dead, try it with a micro hdmi to hdmi adapter, who knows, maybe the bios got borked and maybe it will work again attached to an external monitor.
Just my .02

Also, it took forever for the tablet to fully charge, like the first 5 times. Now mine is running great. It takes a while to charge now, but not nearly as long, its like half as long now, unless I’m using the usb hub I have that also charges. I know its fully charged when the orange light is not blinking anymore when its plugged in. The orange light stays solid when its fully charged. Also, (just a side note) I have to hold the power button down for about 2 seconds for it to turn on.

BTW, the day I got mine, I took it out of the package, hit the power button (for 2 seconds or so) and it turned on, went into windows for about 30 seconds, just enough time for me to click on the battery and it said 32 percent, and then it spontaneously shut off. I hit the power again and nothing. I plugged it in and nothing, no orange light, nothing. I tried a “known good” adapter, and the orange light started blinking and the screen lit up and said 0% battery critically low (I guess that means “no boot into windows”). Because it wouldn’t boot into windows with the battery critically low. I had to wait until it was at like 7% before it would boot into windows. Then I fully charged it, fully discharged it, and did that a few times, just to make sure the stupid battery was calibrated properly. All seems well now, except for a few messups on my part. The new bios released by chuwi, is, in fact 64 bit and will allow you to install windows x64 as well as dual boot android 5.0. Its tricky to get the bios to flash as the current uefi bios is 32 bit, you can research some intel bioses, some have gone from 32bit to 64bit. I’m not going to tell anyone the steps it took, because there is a high probability of bricking the device. Unless you backup the device and have the ability to either jtag or eeprom or pic flash or any other means of using an external flashing device, I wouldn’t bother trying to flash the 64 bit bios over the 32 bit. You may notice that the 64 bit bios is exactly twice the size (giving you an indication that it is so, because it is 64 bit and 64 bit is twice 32 bit), and you may notice if you extract it, put it on the tablet, boot into the efi shell (when on a usb flash drive, from within the bios), then hit “esc” to exit the script (that will fail every time) and try to run “fpt64.efi bios.bin”, after, of course, you mount the usb drive from with the efi shell by typing “fs3:” (or if you have the usb partition or its physically after an sd card or something, using “fs4:), you may notice the efi shell complaining that, it is unable to run 64 bit commands from within an ia32 bit environment. It may dawn on you, suddenly, that flashing this 64 bit bios from within a 32 bit shell, without a proper 32 to 64 bit translation script, will be impossible, or could, possibly be done externally. There are other ways this can be done, through dos, for instance (if you can get it, or freedos to load), but definitely not through 32 bit windows. The actual flashing (if done through software means) is done through the bios, and you have to get through or rather disable, its “secure bios” protection, via a modification of the flashing script. There is a high probability of borking the tablet in any case, as this bios is basically alpha. There will be another non-alpha bios released within the next month or so, after the (now for sale) dual boot version of the hi8 pro has been out for a while and the “engineers” have had a chance to address the problems and issues that will definitely arise from its very recent release (3/25). I think they like to use their consumers as beta testers for most of their devices, judging by all the issues that have come up on all the forums I’ve visited. They seem to release a relatively stable bios for their products about 9 months to a year after it has been sold to the public, that has the majority of the issues resolved and the majority of complaints about it taken care of.

[robert wisdom]

Hi guys, I’m using this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-OTG-Charge-2-Ports-HUB-TF-SD-Card-Reader-Adapter-For-Smartphone-Tablet-/181818173639?hash=item2a553528c7:g:oSwAAOSwu4BVudD3
but with a usb c to micro adapter (the oneplus one on ebay for .99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/311532053483?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=610528650080&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT), that way I can just use a regular micro usb cable to charge it, in case I can’t find or didn’t bring the only usb c cable I have, which happen to come with this tablet. It charges and it has 2 ports for usb and 1 sd and one micro sd slots. I plug in my usb dongle for my keyboard and mouse (I also use an air mouse/keyboard combo with dongle), a thumb drive or another usb hub (powered) and I’ve had sd cards in both slots. It has a micro usb connector on the bottom, I plug a 2a 5v plug in (with the usb cable attached, of course). It shows charging in windows and when not booted into windows and the light blinks when charging and stays on when full. I have it on position 2 or 3, doesn’t seem to make a difference, but position 1 definitely does not charge as fast. There is one that has a usb c connector on the end also, but its like $2 more. I have had this one for a while and used it with my teclast x98 pro, onda v919 3g dual boot and many other tablets. Sometimes it doesn’t work right away, but after a I bootup and reboot, it has worked with every tablet so far. There is also another one that has 4 usb and no sd slots. They all look very similar. Mine came with a micro usb female to usb male also, so you can use it with a regular usb of a computer. It also came with a standard otg connector (I guess to have other options of powering it). I have used the micro usb female to usb male to power it, just for kicks and it does. It will get power from any of the usbs and charge the device and the other usbs will work too. It does not charge fast though, but then again, the stock plug I got from chuwi doesn’t either, takes like 5 hours with the tablet on, even longer with the hub. My venue 11 charger, its like 25w, charges it quickly, but both it and the tablet get really hot.

Hope this helps somebody, (I hate to recommend ebay, BTW (makes me cringe)), but they did have the lowest price and it did arrive from china in about 2 weeks or so.

[robert wisdom]

Hey guys, I have no problems with my hi8 pro.  It works great.  Its a little slower than I thought it would be.  I have 12 or so tablets, this being the slowest, up to a surface pro3. I have a teclast x98 pro, onda v919 3g dual os, dell venue 11 pro 7130, lenovo miix 2, surface 3 (non pro), 2 2013 nexus 7s, 1 2012 nexus 7, bestbuy unbranded ub-15ms10.  Bought most broken and fixed them.  They all work perfectly and I fine tune their performance and operating systems, most have 2 or more OSes.

Anyway, I’ve dealt with a lot of bioses and installation of operating systems.  This one is no different.  The files I downloaded from the chuwi forum contain the bios.  You don’t need to ship it to china, lol.  You do need an otg type c cable and a wired or wireless keyboard and mouse.  I use a wireless keyboard and mouse, I have tried several, they all work, they all have usb dongles.  I’ve tried a microsoft set, logitech, tronsmart air mouse/keyboard combo, cheap chinese touchpad/keyboard combo (about the size of my palm.  I haven’t tried a wired version.  OK, so you connect the otg, then I connect a usb 3.0 4 port powered hub (that actually charges the tablet too) to the otg cable, then the wirless dongle, then the usb flash drive you are going to create.  You are going to make a DOS bootable usb flash drive and put the files contained in the download that pertain to the bios and its installation.  Then you’ll run the command to initiate the bios flash from within dos.  You need to set the usb drive to boot in the bios as well.  You will be able to enter, and navigate in the bios with the keyboard.  After you upgrade the bios, you will install the intel flash tools and flash the android rom through the flash tool, selecting the json file provided (which will provide the necessary instructions for the intel flash tool to flash the android rom and write the partition table and flash the recovery, kernel, bootloader, etc.

Beware, you are going to loose all data that is currently on the tablet when you convert over to dual boot.  After you successfully flash the android rom (which has to be flashed first, because its efi loader isn’t recognized by windows, i.e., if you flash windows first, then android, the android flashing will just wipe windows out) you will install windows with the provided image in the file.  Basically its windows pe, with a windows wim contained within.  The windows pe installation basically has a script contained within it that essentially gives the windows installation instruction to NOT format or overwrite the android partitions contained at the (virtual) beginning of the disk.  After that, you’re done.  There is a tool in both android and windows that will allow you to boot into the other OS.  You will also have the option after the initial bios screen to select the os you want to boot into.

Any question, let me know.  Its pretty self-explanatory.  I’ve help a lot of others within other forums for installation and configuration of the other various devices I have.  I have to admin one thing though, the surface 3 pro, dual booted with the march 1, 2016 release of remix OS is amazing!  Its super fast, everything works, rotation, touch, wifi 2.4 and 5.0, the correct resolution, the keyboard and mouse, the battery meter (acpi), the video drivers, sound, bluetooth, the frickin stylus, the windows button on the display, the sd card slot, display turns off when I close the cover.  I have root, the playstore, select-able OS at boot and the installation was a breeze, just download the file in windows and run it, the executable does everything after you select a couple of options.  I’m getting close to 170k on antutu without any tuning of the kernel or drives or even a swap.  Its blazingly fast!  Kodi on it is virtually instantaneous when selecting items and launching movies or tv shows or whatever.  I do have 150 mb connection though and can easily attain maximum throughput with the 5.0 ac band.

This particular tablet was obtained to geekbuying.com.  They had a 1 week sale a few weeks ago and I bought it for 78.99.  I thought it was a good deal, and being that I have other cherry trail tablets, I thought it must be much faster than its baytrail-t counterpart.  Well, I’ve pretty much squeezed every mhz out of it and its barely 5% faster than the previous baytrail gen in the cpu department.  The gpu is, well, much faster, about 40-45% faster than the baytrail version, but I’m really looking for cpu performance because I don’t play games on devices with integrated gpus, or laptops in general.  I have 15 or so desktops, all very fast, and I prefer to game on them on my 12 foot projector screen with multiple monitors on either side of the screen.  I went for the 5th gen intel i7 5820k as opposed to the 6th gen because, well, it blows it out of the water.  I can easily set my base cores (all 6, 12 if you include hyperthreading) at 4.2ghz on water cooling, of course, with turbo set at 4.6ghz.  Minor voltage adjustment, just for stability and I run 16gb 2400 mhz ddr4 on a gigabyte ud4 x99. I edge out a non-overclocked I7 5960X (8core/16thread) cpu on all benchmarks (at least all the ones that are less than 6 years old or so) and I simply smoke a i7-6700k cpu by a long shot, like 50% faster on the majority of benchmarks.  I did the research before buying and found that the 6th gen intel i7 were simply inferior to the 5th gen.  Kinda funny, but that happens sometimes in the cpu world.  I’m running 3 r9 radeons, (with this cpu I only get 2 16 lane pci express and 1 8 lane pci express channels, but oh well,  the 5930k and 5960X both get 3 16 lane pci-express channels (on the same motherboard, or any motherboard for that matter), but honestly, the performance difference isn’t noticeable, even gaming at 4k resolutions with all the detail setting maxed on any current game and, the 5820k has the highest overclock head-room of the 3 by far.  I’m easily 1ghz over stock and its running perfectly, with absolutely zero glitching, artifacts, blue-screens or memory corruption.  Its completely solid as if it were running at stock frequencies.  I’ve pushed up a few 100 mhz higher, but I don’t feel comfortable when gaming when a cpu reaches 80 degrees centigrade.  I barely reach 70 degrees (even when really pushing it with either gaming or high def video editing/encoding) with the settings i’m currently running, and its super duper fast.  I put remix on it too, but its just not the same without a touch screen, but it does run blazingly fast.

Anyway, sorry for boring everybody, take care, and don’t look too deep into this tablet, its inexpensive, fairly well constructed and runs at a respectable performance level.  I have on that is over 4000, as far as the last 4 digits of the serial.  The documentation states that you shouldn’t flash this particular bios on a tablet label 2000 or under.  I have read of a few guys who did it anyway and only 1 had an unfortunate result (bricked).  BTW, backup your bios embedded windows key (if you care and don’t kms) as the bios flash wipes it out.  I, on the other hand, replaced the version of windows contained in the provided windows PE installation with the version I prefer to run (can’t stand home edition, its missing too many essential components), and modified the script accordingly with a valid installation key.  Its pretty easy to do.

I apologize, (obviously, not in advance, lol) for talking your ears off (if there is more than one of you who actually read this, lol ((again))) and potentially, and inadvertently coercing your inner synapses to, most probably, slow to a state in which your boredom level either leads to anger or frustration, but hey, maybe you learned something, or maybe I need to, but at any rate, you can flash this tablet yourself, and you can modify it to dual boot windows and android.  I have, and would highly recommend it.  You and, btw, (this is it, I swear) boot into the 32 bit version of gparted, resize the main android partion, take the remaining available free space and combine it with the other free space contained at the end of the disk to reduce the size of the android os.  You will have to mark the “persistent” partition as empty in gparted in order to move it to the opposite side of the newly created free space, because in its current state it is immovable.  Once moved to the correct side of the newly created free space, and after the other movable ext4 partitions are on the correct side of the free space and the 2 free spaces are now one contiguous free space, you can then mark the “persistent” partition back to ext 4 (which it is anyway, but gparted doesn’t recognize it as such) and you will now have however much more free space you decided to amputate from the android side, to install a “larger” sized windows 10, uh, installation (for lack of a better word).  This is getting into a little bit more complexity, but with a 32gb drive, 16gb just isn’t a whole lot of room to install windows, and I don’t do much with android other that say, “hey look, I got this one to run both OSes too”.

OK, I’m done.  Take care and may the force and a bit of luck (with a side of an effective serotonin re-uptake inhibitor), be with you (I really have to seek professional help with my addiction and obsessively compulsive overuse of the parenthesis, ((last lol, I promise:))).   My novel is complete, thanks for reading.

[robert wisdom]

hi neo, are YOU on stock or Mireks?  either way this is what you should do. take the twrp.img, rename it to recovery.img. extract either mirek or the stock rom. copy the recovery.img into the extracted mirek or stock rom, replacing the original recovery.img. then install mireks or the stock rom. it will install the twrp recovery instead of the stock one, ive done it a million times. if you need to zip it back up, always use 7zip, it works perfectly for android roms, winrar does not. ive even used 7zip to create tar balls out of zips to install various pieces (modems, hlos, pits, bootloaders, efs, recoveries, sf, preloaders, systems, cache and dalvik,  and full roms) through odin and heimdal.

this way will work through intel’s phone flasher and mirek’s command prompt script flasher.

[robert wisdom]

hi there, the beastie. have you tried mirek’s installer? use all the parts of the original stock android rom (bootloader, recovery, etc) except the data and system partitions. copy and paste the files from your rom into mireks but leave data and system alone. boot into fastboot, launch his installer, see if it works. it should, the hardware is very similar. if there are some hardware differences that dont work, first make a backup with twrp, then extract the system folder, get the blobs, replace them into the etc folder and see if that works. it should as long as your original rom is lollipop too.

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