[Warren]

As per my previous post on this thread

* The LCD is glued around the edges to the digitzer and frame.

I know, I’ve disassembled a Hibook 10 (non-pro), it is possible to separate the LCD from the frame and digitizer, but it’s very very difficult and not advised.

 

 

[Warren]

I took some time to test this for you. I used a regular USB OTG connector and a Trendnet usb to ethernet adapter (it’s only 100Mb) but it worked just fine.

 

[Warren]

so it’s not booting?

 

[Warren]

Thank you so much for posting that link. Unfortunately the page now says “Sorry, this item is no longer available!”

Hopefully they’ll restock soon.

[Warren]

Hi,

Looks as if your tablet is not 100% new and the seller might have used it as a display model.

That particular damage on the docking hole is caused by removal from the keyboard. The magnets holding the keyboard to the tablet are very powerful, if the tablet is not pulled out exactly perpendicular the keyboard stub catches the tablet and bends the frame.

To answer your question; the rear metal casing ‘snaps’ on to the front frame. The front frame holds the LCD, mainboard, and battery.

You will need to remove the 4 x Torx screws. You can then use a plastic tool to pry open the case near the headphone socket and work the whole way around. The power & volume button is one piece of plastic and will fall out. There are 4 magnets that will also fall out as they are only affixed with very light glue. When reassembling, make sure the magnets are back in the same orientation, and don’t forget the buttons!

%Warning% unless the tablet is faulty I would not open it. They are easy to open, but reassembly can sometimes cause the digitizer to crack or split when ‘snapping’ the case together.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Warren

 

[Warren]

Hi Andy,

thanks for replying. I removed the back panel to find the ribbon cable from the mainboard to the LCD was partially disconnected.

The specifications on the ribbon cable is about 2mm too short. Any movement in transit and shipping is dislodging these (as you might have pointed out months ago)

We’re there now and the tablet is working again.  Thanks

Warren

[Warren]

Ok, so I fully discharged the device by connecting a USB hub via OTG with a few devices attached.

Fully charged the device (the orange light has stopped blinking and is now solid)

Press the power button for 15 seconds. Device boots, only works via HDMI. LCD is not powering up.

Any help appreciated.

 

[Warren]

Thanks, after trying 3 different HDMI adapter (they all work on a Samsung tab and a Teclast Tablet) only 1 of them works on the HIBOOK.

Thanks for your time.

Warren

[Warren]

*WARNING*

* The LCD is glued around the edges to the digitzer and frame.

* The battery is (heavy duty) glued to the back of the LCD. Believe me, you will find it very difficult to replace the batteries in the future. Or you’ll crack the LCD from the flexing.
It would seem these units are not so easy to repair. I am sure it can be achieved, but you need to be extremely careful.

 

[Warren]

Hiya,

just a quick note, the seller confirms this digitizer is for a Hi10 *only* – they have labeled the item incorrectly.

For those also looking to replace the digitizer and frame on a Hibook,  FYI the plastic frame has a marking ‘C-109’ and the digitizer controller chip on ribbon cable is a “Silead GSL3680” chip

[Warren]

Hi Andy,

I’m not 100% that this will work on a Hibook, it gives the impression it’s for a Hi10. I’m not sure they’re compatible with each other.

Thoughts?

 

[Warren]

2. Regarding chargers, the original charger is 5V 3Amps. Although the tablet does charge with a 5V 2.5Amp charger, it just takes longer.
I’m presuming any quality 5V 3Amp power supply will operate just fine.

 

[Warren]

Hi Andy,

resetting the cable didn’t fix the issue. The cables are neat and tidy by the way, battery pack is firmly held in place.

However, I unplugged the battery from the main board and left it out for about a 30 seconds. Plugged it back in, and the machine boots. However, while attempting to ‘snap’ the cover back on the digitizer cracked. I was pretty careful, it seemed to break very easily. However, I also own a Teclast x98 Air III and the digitizer on that cracked when I was inserting it into the protective case specifically made for it. So unless I’m being very rough, or these more affordable tablets are somewhat flimsy. I obviously need to be extremely gentle. Now… where to find a Hibook digitizer… *Sigh*

[Author]

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