Bad EZBook pro batteries – How to replace step by step

[Greedo77]

TheFabius68 wrote:

They told me that they can sell it to me. I already confirmed my order of two batterys and I am awaiting for their directions. Within 5/10 business day they will be ready, as they say…

Excellent news! Where abouts are you, how much for shipping? I’ve just sent them a msg via their contact us page.

My Jumper is shutting off when it goes below 50%. And I’ve just noticed the top right corner of the track pad is raised, so guessing one of the battery cells underneath has swollen up which is not a good sign.

UPDATE:

Received a response and there are a few batteries that are the same spec (for different laptops). The guys at the site below can order and supply these.

 

http://www.cdrtd.com/products.php?product=Laptop-Battery-For-ONDA-xiaoma-31-7.6V-CLTD%252d3487265

http://www.cdrtd.com/products.php?product=Laptop-Battery-For-ONDA-xiaoma-31-7.6V-4800mAh-36.48Wh-

http://www.cdrtd.com/products.php?product=Laptop-Battery-For-Jumper-3282122%252d2S-7.6V-4500Mah-32.4Wh

http://www.cdrtd.com/products.php?product=Laptop-Battery-For-Jumper-EZBook-3-Pro-LB10-P313R-HW%252d3487265-7.6V-4800mAh-36.48Wh-

[Chupa]

well that is good news, let us know how it turns out.

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Greedo77]

Yeah, would be good to get the issue resolved.  Based on the below response I don’t know whether we are able to select a specific battery or they receive them at random. As it may be better to get a xiaoma one if theyve not had similar issues?

becasue we have  Four kinds of products are sent at random. These four products are produced by four manufacturers. The printing may not be the same, but the products can be used universally. We have already restored the inventory. After you order, we contact the manufacturer and stock the goods.

[Rac4]

I bought my ezbook 3 back in February. The battery problem started this week. The battery cannot hold its charge more than 5 minutes, even when 100% is reached. (I made no hardware or software modification.) I’m looking for support with gearbest and considering changing the battery with Chupa’s technique.

But, before doing that, I’m wondering… Why would the 7.6v 4800mAh battery be charged by a 12v 3000mA power supply? I mean… Isn’t there where the problem is? Maybe it’s getting overcharge by a way too high voltage and this cause the battery to fail. I always had the impression, even at the few first weeks (when there was no apparent battery problem) that the battery was getting charged up to 100% quite rapidly. I’m thinking and wondering if anybody have an expertise on that? (I’m obvisouly not an expert at all).

I don’t think the power supply is the problem but maybe the inside battery management system is? If so, it could means that the battery change is very temporary before it breaks again… I don’t even know if the battery management system is build by Jumper or is it managed by the OS (which I honestly doubt). Any clues about that?

Thanks for the previous replies, I hope we all find the long-term solution to this problem.

[Greedo77]

Good shout, also started to think about this earlier. As the replacement battery with shipping works out at about $58/£45 and so made me think, what if it happens again? If its a hardware fault between the battery and motherboard or the charger itself is to blame as you suggest. If the solution was also to use a lower power charger, then I’d buy one if it meant actually getting 2-3yrs use without any major failure.

[Rac4]

Instead of buying a new charger (a low voltage one), it might be possible to simply add a buck converter (voltage reducer) to the current laptop charger. It says on the battery that its max voltage is 8.7V. So, adjusting the buck converter to send 8.6V might be a safe bet. I’m only supposing, of course.

This could be a good occasion to add a longer wire to the charger (since it’s so short).

I’m still curious about: Will the computer accept a lower voltage charge? Could it helps the battery on long term?

If anybody had any opinion about this, I’d love to read it.

 

Another note about this issue. I’m guessing we mostly have the exact same one.

As said before : when the charger is plugged in and 100% is reached, if I disconnect it the computer will shut down after about 5 minutes. In order to turn it back on, it needs to be plugged in again. When I reach the desktop, the battery level is at about 95%. Which kinda makes sense… I’m thinking that a faulty battery that cannot hold its charge would normally show a very low %, like 10% or less. I wonder if my guess is right? Do you experience the same issue?

[Greedo77]

Nice idea, your knowledge is far more advanced than mine on this, but it sounds logical.

Yes my issue is very similar, I can charge to 100% ok, but the battery drains quite fast (for not very intensive use) in about 45mins if I’m lucky, to 50%. I plug the charger back in to continue using the laptop as once it goes below 50% it will just shut off without warning and not turn on without the charger being plugged in. There’s no doubt one of the batteries is faulty and is definitely swollen. It’s visible on the right side of the track pad, so if you flip the laptop over it would be the left hand one of the two batteries. I haven’t taken the back off yet but will do some evening to see how things look.

[Chupa]

did any of you bother to install battery bar and actually watch what happening while you charge?

you can easily see the charge rate and opening up to see the battery up close is also a good idea for the first step.

if she is not flat, she is dead.

 

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Greedo77]

Chupa wrote:

did any of you bother to install battery bar and actually watch what happening while you charge?

you can easily see the charge rate and opening up to see the battery up close is also a good idea for the first step.

if she is not flat, she is dead.

I opened up and took a few pics, also took one of battery bar while on charge.

 

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[Chupa]

Let it fully charge and discharge at least 3 times. You should have a more accurate reading of battery wear and capacity by then.

you are running win 10 I assume?

please check your device manager and see that not an intel or MS battery driver is missing

I do not understand pic IMG_20180530_204214.jpg

also your battery is rated 32.4Wh but you battery bar shows 48Wh, that is not correct reported.

I can not make it out from the photos which cell is damaged but the one next to the plug looks a bit more non flat from here.

Also check your power options and set like mine, critical action is set to hibernate

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Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Greedo77]

Chupa wrote:

Let it fully charge and discharge at least 3 times. You should have a more accurate reading of battery wear and capacity by then. you are running win 10 I assume? please check your device manager and see that not an intel or MS battery driver is missing I do not understand pic IMG_20180530_204214.jpg also your battery is rated 32.4Wh but you battery bar shows 48Wh, that is not correct reported. I can not make it out from the photos which cell is damaged but the one next to the plug looks a bit more non flat from here.

I cant let it fully discharge though, as it just shuts off after going below 50% charge.  Yep running Win 10, ive attached a screenshot of device manager battery section, everything looks ok i think.

Sorry, rubbish photo, but pic IMG_20180530_204214.jpg is just looking side on (bottom up, hinge edge down) to show the battery swell. And yes, left hand battery looks fatter than the right and is definitely pushing up the top right corner of the track pad up, its sitting just above the metal edge, whereas the rest of the track pad sits below the chamfered edge.

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[airbites]

You have one damaged and swollen target and that’s why you turn it off halfway. And the second cell is getting tired. Disconnect the battery from the laptop and use it without charging because it may cause an explosion.

 

[Greedo77]

Does the laptop run from the mains with the battery disconnected? This would be the safe option for now.

I’ve exchanged a few emails between the website mentioned above and they are charging $42 ($32 for batt and $10 shipping) , accepting PayPal via the below link. Does this seem ok or scammy? You have buyer protection via PayPal right?

http://PayPal.Me/cdrtd

[Chupa]

only one way to find out, it should, but hey who knows what the Jumpers did and did not do up and down the production line.
on a regular laptop, no problem.

paypal, read the fine print, also check the exact dimensions of the Jumper battery there are different models with different dimensions.

It cost you half just to replace the cells.

did you mention how old your jumper is and where you got it from?

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Greedo77]

Maybe test that later, hopefully it’s doesn’t fry.

I’ll double check the dimensions, took a note of them last nite as well.

I ordered mine back in January, received on 29th Jan, ordered from GeekBuying, German warehouse I think it was.

[Author]

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