Ezbook 3 – A diary with some hints how to get the most out of your Jumpers

[Chupa]

Giovanni, there is no need to quote a post what what just before your reply post – it just looks ugly (in my eyes and clutters a forum) – but I think you wanted to click on reply.

Here is the answer to your confusion:
If you compare our screenshots, what do you notice?
-you just have 3 choices AND
-you did not choose an Operating System

why would they make 2 choice boxes when all the links would be on the main page?

So choose win 7 or 8 and you shall see.

… and Giovanni, I had no idea

please dismiss the 2 mugs above the picture below is the right one

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Giovanni]

If I choose Windows 7 64bit I get this driver.

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27360/Graphics-Intel-Graphics-Driver-for-Windows-15-45-?v=t

EZbook 3 Pro BIOS modder - find my work here
If you want to tag me, my username is thegiolly

[Chupa]

Yes, now try to install it…
and if you look below for the HD500 you see it is missing.

<section class=”products blade”><header>
<h2>This download is valid for the product(s) listed below.</h2>
</header>

• Intel® HD Graphics 510
• Intel® HD Graphics 515
• Intel® HD Graphics 520
• Intel® HD Graphics 530
• Intel® HD Graphics for 6th Generation Intel® Processors
• Intel® HD Graphics P530
• Intel® Iris™ Graphics 540
• Intel® Iris™ Graphics 550
• Intel® Iris™ Pro Graphics 580
• Intel® Iris™ Pro Graphics P580

</section>

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

one has 2×2, the other 2×3+1 and one has 2×3+3
Not so easy to solve?
The Atom x5- 8350 (TBAO 15.6″) has 2 power and 2 ground cables from the battery to the mainboard
The  Jumper 3 pro has 3 power and 3 ground cables plus 1 data cable from the battery to the mainboard
The  Jumper 3S has 3 power and 3 ground cables plus 3 data cables from the battery to the mainboard

Maybe that is the reason you do not hear of Jumper 3S battery failures?
Just something I noticed comparing.

Also compare the build quality in T-BAO TBOOK R8 early model  and the later flash sale for 128 Euro from GearBest

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

Here is a list what games the N3450 can play and how

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

My Jumper 3s is now 6 months old.
Battery wear shows 5.8%, so that is steady but slowly climbing.
6% in 6 months is quite good, but then it is a 14″ 3S with a 50.000 mWh battery.
The case shows signs of wear since it is just painted on a white shell.
There is already one slight rub off point at the lower right corner, but I had this effect on 2 silver DELL and another silver laptop over the years.
So so far this is “standard” for heavy use.
For some reason the screen rubber bumpers are micro size so that the screen touches the keyboard space bar and palm rest area when closed.
It leaves smudges on the screen what are visible under a certain angle, but can be wiped off. Just need to stick a couple black soft bumpers around the screen to solve this.

I measured the screen brightness via a galaxy s5 and some software.
The max brightness is 300 lux what is perfect visible in a bright environment compared to a matte IPS and a matte TN screen, which both showed 180 lux max.
In a bright environment this reflective TN screen works better than the both matte screens.
So I made my peace with the Jumper screen.
Once a while my wifi is just turning off but is always fixed by a reboot except one time when I needed a rollback to a restore point.
I do not think it is even the wifi card I think windows is just having fun with me. I will figure it out when it bugs me too much.
I am still on 1703 and will stay there, all my effort to hinder windows from calling home and messing with my poor home edition payed off.
Fore some reason something changed and I no longer have the audio equalizer boost function.
My 2 oldest programs I am working with are from last millennium: ACDSEE 3.1 ( still the fastest image viewer around since over 20 years)
and Micrografx Picture Publisher 10 – I never bothered with Photoshop.
And the other day one of my front micro case screws decided to wander off.
I am not a big fan how the keyboard looks with the stickers, from some angle it looks OK from other angles it looks crappy (dirty).

Now since summer has come to Valencia the Jumper sits often on bare knees and you sure feel when the processor is above 55ºC.
Turning to Power saver in the power options helps a lot but also the performance suffers.
Will have to work on the cooling system to keep the bottom plate cool.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

After 5 months I finally finished my thermal mod.
I replaced the thermal pad with a 0.5 mm copper shimmy
I replaced the tin plate with an 0.5 mm pure aluminum plate
I replaced the thermal paste between the original copper plate and the tin plate with a 0.1mm double sided sticky thermal tape
and I put a 1 mm silicone thermal pad on top to create a pressure point directly over the processor for optimal thermal heat transfer.
I also removed the part of the blue insulating plastic touching the battery to optimize the heat transfer from battery to aluminum plate.

The I run prime 95 with max heat and max power setting for a while and watched the temperatures.
Compare with the test from 5 months ago we have a 7ºC higher room temperature, since it is summer now.
The room temperature was above 26ºC /79F
So when you compare with the first “quick and dirty” thermal mod count in the 7ºC increase.
It looks like I lowered it another 10ºC  with this mod.

I also re-encoded a movie in full HD 5.1 sound 10 bit h265  via the intel QSV codec.
This codec uses CPU and GPU together at maximum performance.
With sustained 25pfs encoding speed I got a bit throttled down after the package power reached 15 Watt and the Jumper was drawing close to 18 Watt from the battery. The throttling was not because of the heat but I reached the absolute max what the processor can give.
The throttle was from 2.1 to 1.9 GHz 4 cores at 100% usage and it never dropped below 14 Watt.
The overheating throttle sets in when the temp goes over 80ºC, what was not reached in any test.

Please somebody beat that with a 6W TDP Apollo Lake and show me.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

My Jumper 3S is now 8 months old, has lost 7% of it’s battery capacity, but the last month I left it mostly on the charger since it sits now on a laptop cooling pad and I am sitting right next to an outlet.
I am working to totally redo the internal cooling from a passive to a switchable active with a 6mm thick fan inside and I will completely remove the cooling plates and replace with only a 2 mm thick ssd m.2 pure copper cooler.
The fan will get a manual and also an automatic 50ºC switch.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

My Jumper 3S is now 9 months old, has lost 9.8% of it’s battery capacity, I noticed that the Battery Bar shows info for a 50Wh battery but my original battery shows a 36.5 Wh at 7.6V
That translates to a 41.76 Wh fully charged battery (4800 mAh x 8.7 V).
Battery Bar shows now 45Wh capacity left.
I am a bit confused.

Also I installed a fan into the fanless Jumper 3s and I redid the passive cooling for the umphts time

fan mod for a fanless ultrabook

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

watch youtube with the least resources, heat and longest battry run time

I already posted a comparison between edge, chrome, firefox and waterfox regarding using resources and generating heat while playing youtube 720p
edge won but is horrible because you can not block the adds and other crap.
Here are my newest findings on how to keep your computer cool and last longer while watching youtube.
USE the VLC player
CTRL N opens the network stream
just paste the full YT url and close the browser

why? see below
test done with jumper 3s

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[euplio]

I found best result with Chrome beta comparing to Edge and btw you can block ads with Edge 😉

[Chupa]

My Jumper 3S is now 10 months old and so far holds at 9.8% lost battery capacity from last months.

After doing all the work to install 2 different fans etc.
installed 5mm spacers between all bottom lid screws to try a different kind of ventilation system
and made a Swiss cheese first with over 100 3mm holes to get the ventilation going
than with 20 to 30mm holes
here are my findings:
The darn fan mode does not work as expected.
I have a hot air exhaust out of 7 – 3mm holes what is strong enough to bow out a flame.
So cool air gets sucked from the bottom blows only over the copper cooler and picks up enough heat to make the exhaust air over 10ºC warmer than the surrounding air.
But the processor temperature does not sink even 1 degree.
The bottom gets cooler, the air gets warmer but the processor stays the same.
This makes no sense  for me.

So I ripped everything out again, got myself a 1mm thick slim slotted aluminum sheet to cover all the holes, gotta keep the bugs out and my fingers from accidently touching some parts of the exposed motherboard.
Then I cut off a breakfast plate what has a cork bottom, used some velcro stickers for easy connection and disconnection. They have tha same position as on the cooling pad with the big fan.
The first test was good but still not optimal, so I disconnected the back velcro pads and did a foam extension, also with velcro stickers.
I have now a 3mm front gap and good 10mm rear air gap.
It can stay on the bed and the bottom is still very well ventilated, also the connection is so sturdy that I need a knife between the pads to separate the velcro.

With all the modification I added good 200 gram to the Jumper but it is now no problem to have it in a 30ºC environment on my uncovered knees.
While tinkering around I discovered that the screen backlit what sits at the bottom of the screen lid can get quite warm and if the Jumper front sits on the stomach the warm bottom lit touches the knees and creates discomfort.
This is why I mounted the plate standing over in the back. No matter how crazy the angle is, nothing warm of the Jumper is touching me.
So my Jumper is now ready for 3 climate scenarios.

Cool 18-22ºC – no bottom plate, the rubber feat extend the soft part of the velcro stickers
Warm 24-28ºC  – bottom plate
Ay Caliente over 30ºC – cooling plate with switchable big fan

h1 the 5mm spacer and the longer screws needed to connect top and bottom
h2  I went medival  on my Jumpers bottom
h3 1 copper shimmy between the processor and the copper plate, 4 shimmies between the copper and the aluminum plate and 4 shimmies on top of the aluminum plate for pressure from the bottom plate – all 0.5mm and with thermo paste
h4 the bottom with 3 velcro stickers in place, one needs repositioning
h5 thermo bottom plate mounted side view, you see where the old fan switch was and what I did to the case to get the sd card in and out without using my fingernails
h6 Jumper front view
h7 10mm extension bumper for the rear
h8 bottom view
h9a Jumper with bottom plate
h9b Jumper with cooling plate

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[euplio]

Chupa wrote:

My Jumper 3S is now 10 months old and so far holds at 9.8% lost battery capacity from last months. After doing all the work to install 2 different fans etc. installed 5mm spacers between all bottom lid screws to try a different kind of ventilation system and made a Swiss cheese first with over 100 3mm holes to get the ventilation going than with 20 to 30mm holes here are my findings: The darn fan mode does not work as expected. I have a hot air exhaust out of 7 – 3mm holes what is strong enough to bow out a flame. So cool air gets sucked from the bottom blows only over the copper cooler and picks up enough heat to make the exhaust air over 10ºC warmer than the surrounding air. But the processor temperature does not sink even 1 degree. The bottom gets cooler, the air gets warmer but the processor stays the same. This makes no sense for me. So I ripped everything out again, got myself a 1mm thick slim slotted aluminum sheet to cover all the holes, gotta keep the bugs out and my fingers from accidently touching some parts of the exposed motherboard. Then I cut off a breakfast plate what has a cork bottom, used some velcro stickers for easy connection and disconnection. They have tha same position as on the cooling pad with the big fan. The first test was good but still not optimal, so I disconnected the back velcro pads and did a foam extension, also with velcro stickers. I have now a 3mm front gap and good 10mm rear air gap. It can stay on the bed and the bottom is still very well ventilated, also the connection is so sturdy that I need a knife between the pads to separate the velcro. With all the modification I added good 200 gram to the Jumper but it is now no problem to have it in a 30ºC environment on my uncovered knees. While tinkering around I discovered that the screen backlit what sits at the bottom of the screen lid can get quite warm and if the Jumper front sits on the stomach the warm bottom lit touches the knees and creates discomfort. This is why I mounted the plate standing over in the back. No matter how crazy the angle is, nothing warm of the Jumper is touching me. So my Jumper is now ready for 3 climate scenarios. Cool 18-22ºC – no bottom plate, the rubber feat extend the soft part of the velcro stickers Warm 24-28ºC – bottom plate Ay Caliente over 30ºC – cooling plate with switchable big fan h1 the 5mm spacer and the longer screws needed to connect top and bottom h2 I went medival on my Jumpers bottom h3 1 copper shimmy between the processor and the copper plate, 4 shimmies between the copper and the aluminum plate and 4 shimmies on top of the aluminum plate for pressure from the bottom plate – all 0.5mm and with thermo paste h4 the bottom with 3 velcro stickers in place, one needs repositioning h5 thermo bottom plate mounted side view, you see where the old fan switch was and what I did to the case to get the sd card in and out without using my fingernails h6 Jumper front view h7 10mm extension bumper for the rear h8 bottom view h9a Jumper with bottom plate h9b Jumper with cooling plate

You are crazy! I like your style to do things. I bought a Lenovo i5-7200u so I decided to replace the 3pro instead I liked to make some new mod regarding thermal.

[Chupa]

Hello, my name is Jumper EZBook 3s and I am Chinese ultrabook.
I left my country 11 months ago for a strange country called SPAIN.
Since I arrived there I have been constantly probed, poked, had factory values altered many times, had my turbo limit from 30 seconds altered to infinity.
I have lost count how often my bottom placed was removed for modifications.
The easiest modification was to switch my factory installed 265GB to a 512GB SD. What went without any problem including a full copy.
Then the thermo modification horror began, with a big 0.5mm aluminum plate connected with  ton of heat transfer paste on top of my copper cooling plate.
This worked out quite well, I even could play GTA V with out stutter.
But I should be a race horse my owner decided, so around 15 different modifications were tried out on poor me.
One of the wildest were that a glass mirror was installed on top of my copper cooling plate to keep the heat from reaching the bottom plate while the fan was blowing – it did not work. I had 2 different fans installed and a bunch of cooling slits and fan intake holes cut into my bottom and rear. You see the Swiss cheese mutilation in pictures above and can read some of my modification horror stories what was done to me.
But I was a good sport, even when a full case size aluminum plate was so strong bonded with thermal clue stickers that nothing could be accessed and the full size plate was cut with a rotary tool while my battery was still connected AND  it was cut just 0.5mm above the battery cables AND I was full of fine micro aluminum metal dust, I was still working with out complaint after wards.
Things have settled down so much, that after the last modification (see above) my owner if finally happy with his angular breakfast plate installation. He is happy because no more heat can reach his precious legs and I am happy because I mostly stay in a slightly slanted angle what lifts the back nearly 10 mm and even when I am placed on the bed I can keep properly cool.

My battery lost in a months another 3% and is now down to 12.8% wear.
I still work around 8+ hours a day and some of my keys on the keyboard show a little aging in having to be pressed a bit harder or having to be smashed to destroy the little crumbs what find there way inside. My case shows wear on the paint but not much worse than the 2 silver painted dell what where used years ago.

So over all I hold up pretty well for a cheap Chinese ultrabook after 11 months of abuse and use.
See you next months when I celebrate my 1 year birthday.

3s

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[matsetech]

where did you plugged / connected the 5v fan? im planning this on my surbook..

[Author]

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