[Dhr. Jeep]

Months afte, any update on this?

[Dhr. Jeep]

Hi!

It’s been a while since your post but did you manage to fix it? I have the exact same issue: Windows Update..and it’s broken. Does not turn on anymore, nothing.

[Dhr. Jeep]

Technically it should work yes. It has PD and if it can charge a MacBook, it should be able to charge a tablet.

Maybe do try a different cable, otherwise it’s too bad and you should buy a different charger. Get the one from ROCK as mentioned above

[Dhr. Jeep]

Hi!

Sorry for my late response. I used Intels XTU and some BIOS changed.

You can use these files:
https://mega.nz/#!8RcUkYjB!18AFgmzZ–2EI0mhKcuNdyQB9pqZpvwQXW7iTshXYKE

use the older version of XTU to import the configuration file. Only after that you can update XTU. Otherwise the file won’t load.

Whole guide here:

(not mine)

Works pretty well. But make sure you do the heat sink mod first as I described here before.

[Dhr. Jeep]

OK, so if I download ‘fym901af.exe’, it automatically installs the latest driver? Or do we need to compile it for Mix Plus?

[Dhr. Jeep]

Actually, the heat mod can be done without losing warranty if you do it properly. It might be a bit scary for some people but it is actually pretty easy. If you ever want to go back the normal situation; open everything back up, remove the copper shim, clean the cooling paste off, replace the old cooling pad back and done.

I would recommend everyone to use good cooling paste on the processor. It really made a difference in my situation: I could clearly see a difference in temperature when I re-did the entire mod. 11 degrees cooler, no joke.

To answer someone’s other question: I am always putting in the USB-C charger while gaming on this device. Highest recorded temperature is 79, This is with the heat sink mod. I am sure this is safe. I even upped the voltages to keep the CPU/GPU boost for longer and override the voltage throttling.

[Dhr. Jeep]

Is this even with the heat sink mod? Also, did you try any performance enchantments before you installed Linux?

[Dhr. Jeep]

FUCKTECHTABLET wrote:

grab the source and compile it yourself

Thank you for letting us know about this. Would you be able to inform us here if there is any compiled version for the Mix Plus? I do not think there are many technical people here that can compile camera drivers.

[Dhr. Jeep]

Not required to login. If you click in the ‘download’ in the OP message, you’ll get to a Chinese Baidu site. Click the icon with the download arrow that also says ‘13.5M.’ If there is another field first: just fill in the password that is also in the OP: wh9h

[Dhr. Jeep]

That might be interesting. I downloaded it with a whooping 50kb/sec from their Baidu server (Are Google servers that slow in China?). During the download I saw the package was uploaded on 11th of May 2018 but the files were created on the 4th of May.

Inside the .rar file is a small tutorial with pictures on how to install the firmware. It’s fairly easy so no need for that one.

Leaves the firmware package! My guess it’s a SSD-controller update, mainly because the tutorial directly translates into that 😀
I will make a comparison of the speeds before and after installation, see if anything happens. Will do it later this week.

[Dhr. Jeep]

Update:

I decided to buy some new item and try it all again. With the 96% isopropyl alcohol, I cleaned the die (the CPU) and the entire heat-sink. I bought Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano because of all the effort they’ve put into that name. And also because it shows it’s thermal conductivity is 11 <span class=”a-list-item”>W/Mk </span>instead of the 4 to 6 most others have. It also got good reviews and was cheaper then most others here next door.

Used a new, cleaned, 1mm copper shim, put the gel on there too and then the heat sink, screwed it tightly.

On top of that the thermals pads, normal ones from Banggood.com

Now, gaming:
– League of Legends
– They Are Billions

No scientific research here but I want from 94 degrees to 73 max after one 40 minute game of LoL and the same result with TAB right after that (around 50 minutes), still 73.

YouTube, 1080p full-screen would give me 85 degrees after 20 minutes, now went to 63.

Amazing!

So what I did wrong the first time could be two things:
– old paste
– used thermal adhesive to get the copper shim stuck to the heat-sink

Old paste might have been too old and the thermal conductivity of the adhesive I can find nothing about, maybe it’s only ‘working under intense heat’ and not really meant to also conduct the heat, effectively isolating it and making things worse.

So, I tried it three times and the best method I can say is; no hassle, simply buy good new paste.

Also, for some people who are afraid the copper shim will move around: it really cannot go anywhere if you do not use too much paste (rice grain is the max, more is counter-productive) and you make the screws really tightly.

 

[Dhr. Jeep]

ROCK is a solid brand, I can recommend them. So, that is already two relatively cheap chargers with good quality that can be used.

[Dhr. Jeep]

So there is also paste between the copper shim and the thermal pad? Think that is also not really helping.
There fact that they removed the heat-sink is really weird. I am still looking for a new one, if you ever find it anywhere, please also let me know 😉

I changed my paste after I did not get any good temps in my first try. That actually worked for me.
So I would advice to buy better paste. Then:
– paste on CPU
– copper shim
– thermal pad

As Chris said, make sure the thermal pad touches the back-cover of the tablet so all the heat gets dispersed properly.
And let us know how it went plz 🙂

[Dhr. Jeep]

Of course but when the heat-sink is screwed unto it again, firmly, it should not be able to move. Using thermal adhesive can also be a good idea although I still wonder about the thermal conductivity of the material while with thermal paste it is well-known.

[Dhr. Jeep]

OK, can you all give us the link to your cases? 🙂

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