[OptoMan]

been a while, hope you’re okay — I don’t remember exactally what android-only flashes they have but I think only one or two that happen to be for all the devices.  (android and windows get information from bios different or not at all.  as in some of the hardware stuff android detects by itself and windows might take bios’ word for it, or vise versa.  and there’s stuff for each available in bios) — so, if you can’t see one, see what android-only’s there are and consider trying one .. doing half of the dual flash leaves half the storage unused

the proper way is to get the firmware and prepare a usb disk for each OS .. they call them ‘udisks’ .. for android it’s clear and format a thumb drive with gpt partition table, one fat32 filesytem and copy all the files in the firmware directory to it.  then in tablet bios, make sure advanced>system component>system id is ‘android’ and go to last ‘main’ tab (boot) and select to run efi shell from external device, should run by itself.

there are some pretty broken instructions posted on forums

oh and make sure to get any OTA updates .. if you type in your google account and get google services going with a non-updated android you might not see the OTAs .. happened to me.  show’s what problems were going on in the background.

[OptoMan]

a month old hope you’re good — I would double check you’re pairing the devices properly with Android.

I can’t be the only one that has noticed that if you have a bluetooth device paired with an android, and then, turn off bt device or tablet(or let sleep), and power on .. they say paired but half the time they’re not.  drop down android controls and turn off bluetooth and turn back on, does a full pair.  see in bt settings information about paired devices and see what you can and can’t allow, media, phone, contacts, whatever kb/mouse have, might not make it the way they were after a re-pair .. anyone?

[OptoMan]

I’m not convinced it was able to do that before the flash, from what I see, windows might let you use usb and charge at the same time but android won’t.  has to do with USB spec limiting USB paired with power to 0.5Amp and the required code is not in [this] Android.

[OptoMan]

assuming you haven’t changed anything yourself to cause this be it an incorrect bios flash or non-official android install, or changed bios settings actually, it does leave android as the problem area. when did the problem start, or after anything in particular? if it’s just random, don’t forget the touchscreen sensor calibration in android settings, clear caches and lose bad apps, and consider the next part which would involve a reset — carefully

if you reset your current android or flashed factory to start seeing the problem soon after, approach carefully, but you should be okay. the i1-T was shipped in chinese and has three OTA updates waiting. I needed all three to see problems fixed in hanging and networking (including bluetooth). when I first got the thing a switch to english would hang it, so patiently wait a few minutes, give up and hard reset the thing (long-press power button to force shutdown and boot back up again) ..

to hurry the OTA process, don’t sign on with a google account (and so remove your google account if there is one) and remove the chines apps you won’t use, and check for OTA with the built in utility.

don’t forget touch calibration =)

[OptoMan]

for the most part, if the sd card has a single partition formatted fat32, android will do it’s best to move acceptable apps to it.

if it doesn’t then, it kinda means that the tablet android firmware considers the entire space that’s _shared between_ system and user partitions as the first sd card.  some android devices are like that, so it sees no reason to move stuff to it.

also, many android apps will not move — it was a choice be the makers of each app themselves and it’s for security reasons.  when an app has permission to read sd card contents, it might read stuff in other app’s sd card directories.

there’s also a hard time getting gpm to move music to external sd.  some peolple are lucky enough for it to work on their android devices.

[OptoMan]

no and yes and no — the bios is actually uefi and it’s 64 bit.  it will only boot uefi mode to 64 bit operating systems.  windows can only recognize GPT partition tables when using windows uefi boot mode.  our flash device has so many partitions it cannot use classic mbr partitions which allow for 4 primaries, one of those can be extended which allows a tonne of logical partitions inside.  our android uses gpt and for solid reasons.

there is such thing as a custom hybrid-mbr-gpt where there’s an mbr table with mbr partitions in the middle somewhere of a gpt disk.  flakily marked to not be tampered with, and custom set up with bios windows boot loader.  the bios booted windows will not be able to see other partitions.  and that’s IF fast-boot allow csm to boot bios operating systems and you want to spend 12 hours installing windows.

what I’m saying is that yes, 64 bit windows requires more ram — however, windows 10 is way better at managing memory than previous version .. task manager memory usage might not look like it, but that’s how good it is.

64 bit processors show obvious improvement with audio, video, cryptography, compression/decompression and all gaming.

 

[OptoMan]

saw you’re a gamer — so making some judgements on what apps you run — heavy on the cpu, gpu, ram, and might forget to tone down apps/settings you can live without.  if you do that, you can safely change a bios setting, DVMT (dynamic video memory technology) and set it higher, a constant 256 or something.

what I’m seeing is a loaded android system doing what it thinks it should, and you running a couple heavy apps (could be just GPM, chrome and google search with bells and whistles) — when you throw a large app at the cpu if you’re low on ram we have an OOM (out of memory), or even when approaching oom, say 70-85% .. time to put apps to sleep, save where they were and cache to slow internal storage.  while pretending it quickly doing what you wanted to do.   same story, let’s also send stuff to gpu, and want MORE system ram for video memory.

hope that makes sense .. same for windows .. all is well

[OptoMan]

immediate options are reflash android the proper way .. if you want all space for android, grab an offical Cube flash that is android only.  if you want to uninstall windows and claim the flash space you’re going to have to root to format/mount the new space.

[OptoMan]

what changed between touch screen working and touchscreen not working?  bios update? change bios settings?

if niether, question android .. settings, sensors, calibrate.  check for something like that, it’s not impossible or alarming if it’s not calibrated anymore.

[OptoMan]

we can’t know what you mean yet — you need a bios and the only way to add a bios if there is none is by putting clamps on the flash chip.

realize that optimal ordering is: 1) flash bios from working windows 2) flash android update, which clears all partition information and leaves room for windows 3) install windows.

where did it go wrong?  did you flash bios for iWork8 AIR i1-TF from working win10?

if you say tablet’s not dead — seems there is some bios, but no boot information for it to find, please describe what happened

 

 

 

[OptoMan]

 

probably not your battery yet —

power consumption is an important thing to question for smaller devices (and laptops too), so settings make all the difference .. I don’t have my iwork8 with me, but I do remember a win10 setting that was not set correctly .. it was set to stay connected to wifi when the devices was in ‘sleep’ mode.  sleep mode has set power states for different parts of the device .. screen, cpu, etc .. but the wireless radio doesn’t use the cpu and such to stay connected to your wifi network, and ‘staying connected’ isn’t as easy as one might think.   some receieving and some transmitting = power use.

It’s in the win10 settings — almost exact same for android devices — settings > wireless > top hidden options “Advanced” and choose for “keep wifi connected when:” — options are when screen is on, when connected to power, all the time.  first or second by not third.

big boost right there — now to further smart settings, uninstall apps you don’t use (or plan on trying more like it) cause they do stuff on their own, online or offline even (which would wake cpu and start using power) .. android folks call it ‘wakelock’.  and set some conservative settings elsewhere — syncronize everything to cloud services?  word choices for keyboard?  stock quotes?  all that email?

hardware wise, lithium batteries lifespan is rated in complete charge-discharge cycles, and conveniently (chemically), works out that a half discharge, recharge, half dischage counts as one discharge =)  several hundred at least.  discharging below 30% takes more toll however, but don’t worry yet — what I would do is charge it full, and discharge to ~30 and charge full again, use plugged in for extending times — put power settings to do something aroun 30%, notice when it happens and put tablet down or charge soon .. all is well!

also — screen brightness.  screen uses a looottttt of power. notice that when set to auto-adjust mode, the screen is bright in a bright room, and dimmer in a dark room.  how many people have that thing turned all the way up at night?

 

[OptoMan]

If you read back around there’s not a whole lot of posts in here, iWork8 — for the most part, if you flashed the wrong bios, your graphics and touch screen are messed up, right?

further, if you have the ACPI error, where that surely came from is a setting in your BIOS — under Advanced > System Component, “OS Image ID”.  manually set it to Windows 10.  windows will not boot unless it’s set to that .. if you can understand this, the main boot selector for android/windows will change that setting in the bios if you select what it’s not already at .. then the chosen operating system will read that from the bios and be satisfied.

so .. if graphics/touch screen broken, need micro-hdmi cable to see, and you might be okay touching the screen in different places, or might have to OTG a USB mouse to it .. fix acpi setting, boot to windows if it’s still there and flash bios.  if windows aint there, install it while using the hdmi/mouse! =)

 

[OptoMan]

no that’s great, but now I have a question =) — how’d you get to android recovery mode?

[OptoMan]

said you fixed it 17 minutes previous in the other thread — the android will hiccup after switching to english .. as far as I can tell china officially changed to left-to-right, I dono how or why.  but if that has  nothing to do with it, I’m seeing symbols and stuff.  android should run fine after a reboot (forced if needed) and in fact one of the fastest dang androids out there!!

this time, I waited a day or two before signing on to google, and android found an OTA (over-the-air) firmware update from cube — see it didn’t when I first got the thing, and the update isn’t too recent — so a manual check way down in android settings.

I would actually be sad if someone wanted to get rid of the android stuff, for me that’s one of the selling points — shoot, I’m replacing an older android tablet and saw this thing in my price range, boy is it fast.  if you actually decided to do that, the easy and effective way would be to simply change the boot order in the bios to skip the manager/option and just go to windows.  and from windows, go to disk management and delete all those partitions (use diskpart at cmd if you have any troubles with any protected or invisible partitions) and then create a new partition with windows even, d: or something.  the hard way isn’t too hard but time consuming with no real reason except for a pretty disk layout — sorry for that but people jump on things

[OptoMan]

so cool. hello over here again — pretty sure the only meaningful difference between T and TC bios is the lcd and digitizer specs, so as long as windows isn’t mangled you’ll be fine soon =) just to say, if windows is messed up, you could run the whole windows installation routine with the hdmi

uhh be the flash 64 bat file —

and I’m going to stand slighly corrected, looks like there’s some 64 efi utils in there! so cool, it actually is tho. I just want to say that helping someone navigate a command line is not cool. a walkthrough yes, but when things change and people don’t know what they’re looking at …

[Author]

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