[bill]

Hi Jeep,

I’m a newb at modding myself, hence the reading i did before i tried it. As for the moving around the shim I may be wrong there, I’ve read that is not good and read other people recommend it!

There is supposed to be a break in period for the paste to kick in, hopefully it is that.

The only other thoughts are; Did you clean the copper shim and the heat sink with the same alcohol cleaning solution before you applied them? If not, that could be the problem, see here;

“A hair, piece of lint, and even dead skin cells
can significantly affect the thermal interface’s performance. Oils from you fingers
can adversely affect the performance by preventing the micronized silver or
ceramic fill from directly contacting the metal surfaces. (Fingerprints can be as
thick as 0.005”)  My thoughts are if the shim wasn’t cleaned those elements could compromise the heat transfer from the paste to the shim. I’d clean the heat sink as well.

Also you used a few thermal pads on top of the heatsink? But Chris had good results with one?Maybe that is to many, and something is going wrong there? My first step before removing the paste would be to open it up, and just try one pad and see if it improves.

Good luck mate, hope you have good results and can get back to gaming, you dont want 92 degrees! 😉

 

 

 

 

[bill]

• Applied pressure, moved it around and checked if everything was spread well. It was.

Did you take it off to check it spread well and then put it back on? If so from what I read, (research for changing paste on my laptop), that is a bad idea, as you introduce air pockets by taking it off and reapplying it again, messing up the conductivity from processor to shim.

[bill]

I had an issue like this. I left the tablet on  until it ran out of battery, and it would not power back on after recharging. Well it did, but the screen was totally blank (off), the hdmi out didn’t work but i heard windows sounds, so the OS was running.

 

How I got it working again.

I left it alone to run the battery to zero. I then charged it for 24 hours or so not touching it.  I took it off the charger and then (my memory is a bit hazy, it was a while ago) pressed reset for about 5 seconds and either it came on, or i pressed the power after the reset and it came on.

 

Give this a go, it worked for me.

[bill]

Apparently the way you attach the end piece, changes the polarity, positive or negative. I had no idea (or what a polarity is) and just put it on. I’m pretty sure i just fucked my i9 because i didnt read a plug’s instructions.

If anyone has any ideas, or how to test the issue i’d appreciate it. Or even if i have fried the motherboard, how to test the other components, or what may be salvageable to try and use elsewhere (screen, ssd, ram, proc).  (Or buy and replace MB, even if i fail (likely), i’ll learn as i go. I’ve built my own pc from components, so even though this is way above that im willing to play around.

I’m assuming my warranty, is a) not that great, chinese tablet (b doesn’t cover the owner being a total dickhead.

Any help appreciated. Or just post to point and laugh, I don’t blame ya!

 

[bill]

Argh, I triedd the Argos charger and my i9 switched off and won’t come back on. The red charging light doesn’t come on when I try to charge via USB c. I’m sure I’ve fried something.

 

Doea

Does anybody have an idea????????

 

[bill]

Thanks everyone for your responses, I appreciate it.

[bill]

Hi @kurpter thanks for the Argos link that looks ideal. I’ve got one to pick up, brilliant.

I’ve got the ivoler hub, but feel better knowing i’ve got a normal charger too. Especially as i bought a usb c cable that started to lose connection over time. If my usb c failed, i’d have no way to charge it. Luckilly it wasnt the usb c port, or the ivoler, just the cable.

[bill]

Thanks for your response Laurent, iv’e got the iVoler on order. I thought it may be a bit slow to charge, but glad to hear it works fine. I’d also like to get a traditional charger as back up. But, I don’t want to blow up the tablet plugging in one with the wrongs amps or volts or whatever 🙂

[bill]

jasieek wrote:

Have you resolved the problem? I’m having the same, although the menu pops up almost only when I’m holding the tablet in my hands. It’s annoying to say the least.

If you read my posts, I ended up using the update tool with the only file that was available, in the downloaded zip file. Briefly after, the phantom touches still persisted. But they have completely gone now. The update tool completely fixed it, hope yours is good.

[bill]

It wasn’t a Linux machine I formatted it in. It was an android OS, like your phone or a tablet. Just mount it in there, take it out and reinsert it in your i9. It worked for me.

[bill]

I don’t have your card. But I had a 128gb card that didn’t work in this device. I formatted it in an android device (mount). And re-inserted it back into the i9, and it worked. Apparently android forces it to format into exfat I think. Hope this helps.

[bill]

I tried the fix using the only available file. It was okay for a while, but the bloody start menu keeps popping up. I’m getting pretty pissed off with this sadly. Had no luck with the Microsoft fix that turns off the windows button, it was for the keyboard, not the tablet button.

I also tried switching off Human Interface Devices in the device manager. But none I tried seem to be for the windows button.

If anyone could help, i’d really appreciate it.

[bill]

Has anyone got an answer for what I’ve posted above?

A link to the download that includes the actual file?

I’ll wait a little longer in the hope someone can help. But i’m going to get a Microsoft fix that disables the button, hopefully that fixes it, I can live without the button fine. But the menu keep popping up, is doing my head in!

[bill]

J.el wrote:

Just wanted to provide an active link to the fix that socube is giving anyone with the phantom Windows key “ghost” touching. Thankfully, it wasn’t a hardware issue for me. https://mega.nz/#!gIIGSR5b!YTQXLlFGtr-PLQby9goqu9yv3hm2d-RtEMGL5ojsbU8 The problem is outlined in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldgwMbysjUY It worked for me, but unfortunately, the dude in the vid had lots of problems.

Hi, thanks for the link. Upon reading the attached word file, I followed the steps, until I had to select the file the update tool needed to progress.  The guy said to choose the file ‘FT5926_FW_app.bin’

The problem is that file isn’t there. the only file in the ic firmware folder is named ‘yidao_i9_v0x21_201160127_app.bin’.

Did you choose this file? Any help is appreciated as the win menu keeps popping up, and it’s a pain.

[bill]

Well my SanDisk is holding up fine so far (touch wood). Every card up to 64gb worked okay. Just the larger ones not being recognized. So from what BillChristiansen says, it’s the exfat format that is the issue, and formatting in fat32 that is the fix. Seems like many don’t have the issue at all.

Did you try this on the cards that didn’t work for you Chris?

Btw, thanks for all the reviews and info, your doing gods work ☺

 

[Author]

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