Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[Riccardo Majewski]

And, as far as I’ve seen, the wifi of this tablet need more speed, not power/range…

I’m looking towards a small external usb dongle … we have 2 usb… let’s just use one…

[Hualalai]

I received my X2 Pro today.  Ordered from Banggood 9 days ago with free shipping.  After being immersed in this thread for a week or so … no surprises.  After an hour of charging, I booted and found 40% battery level.  My X2 Pro/X16 Pro pen (N-Trig) was instantly recognized, made wifi passwords easy to enter.  I updated Win 10 Home so that I have a good M.2 boot drive, then put in the ZTE 512GB, AC600 wifi nano-dongle, USB 3.0 to RJ-45 dongle, and Huawei modem, and install Win 10 Pro.  BTW, my understading is that all Win 10 Home product keys are the same.  MS identifies each computer with a digital fingerprint.  That’s the reason that magicaljellybean or key-finder may come back with a blank, and one reason you cannot prevent a Win 10 Home device from talking to MS.

During the update to Win 10H ‘586, the CPU area of the backplate was at 32C and the AC adapter was at 38C.  The CPU was loaded, but not the GPU, and the AC adapter was maxed.  I think the additional 50C of CPU heat during gaming is coming from the integral GPU.

The stock wifi sucks.  I quickly discovered that being 12″ from the hotspot is MUCH faster than being 12 ft. from the hotspot.   I should have plugged in my USB 3.0 to RJ45 adapter immediately and run in Airplane Mode during the update.  Backed up drivers and the INF file, then opened the back.

HERE’S HOW TO REMOVE THE BACKPLATE OF AN X2 PRO

You will need a hairdryer, or better, a heat gun.  There are no plastic tabs used on the current X2 Pro, but there IS ALOT OF ADHESIVE applied around the edge of the backplate.  The backplate is does not cover the top and bottom 2cm of the back.  That 2 cm, T and B, is plastic.  The backplate is like a flattened “U” that wraps the edges.  The adhesive is only applied around the margin of the backplate, not in the middle.  The thinnest strand is along the side with the USB, SIM (hidden), SD, HDMI, and HP ports.

DO NOT START FROM THE VOLUME/POWER BUTTON SIDE. Heat all along the side with the USB, SIM (hidden), SD, HDMI, and HP ports and back about 6 cm from the edge along the top and bottom.  I used a heatgun at 1150F, high blower, 5cm away, for about 15 seconds.  Insert a spudger between the inboard USB port and the SD port… that is the area of least adhesive… and work the back plate up.  The backplate is aluminum, it will flex easily once the adhesive melts a bit.  Work from the middle of the “ports edge” out to the sides and then back along the T and B edges in the area that you heated.  If the aluminum does not lift up easily, STOP, and apply more heat.  When the adhesive is soft, the backplate lifts up EASILY.  Only lift the backplate up about 5 mm, then put placeholder spudgers in (or guitar picks).  Heat up the middle T and B edges of the backplate, and put placeholders in, then heat up the edge with the volume control and power button, and lift off the backplate.  The volume and power buttons stay attached internally (now you know why you started from the “ports” side.).

You’ll probably need thin metal spudgers to get started in the USB to SD port area, but move to plastic spudgers as soon as you can get plastic spudgers it.  You do NOT want to use metal spudgers in the battery area.

The hot adhesive has a pleasant smell… if you can smell it, it’s past the temperature that it is soft enough to pull off the backplate.

Do not attempt to pull off the backplate without heat… you WILL bend the aluminum.

The thermal mod should really improve cooling.  In my unit, the CPU and eMMC are covered by a screwed down copper plate with a thermal pad on top of the copper plate.  It is clear to see on my unit that the thermal pad is barely contacting the backplate, and then only on about 20% of the area of the copper plate/thermal pad.  The thermal pad is slightly smaller than the copper plate.  I will replace the thin metallized mylar on the backplate (that isn’t making good contact with the thermal pad) with a large copper sheet adhered to the backplate.  If the copper-to-pad contact is still not 100%, I’ll use a thicker thermal pad.

Also, the backplate includes an RF shield in the 4G modem area, even though the modem socket is empty.  Thanks, Teclast.

Chris, I suggest the “how to remove the backplate of an X2 Pro” as a sticky.

[Riccardo Majewski]

(long post, sorry guys, too much enthusiasm… XD )

@Jakob

I highly suggest a fresh install of W10 on this tablet. (tought my license was not automatically activated after my method, I had to use “another way” to activate it)

I’ll write a list of things I did…. maybe not strictly necessary, but hey… (someone correct me if some step is questionable)

– with DoubleDriver software do a backup of all drivers in the tablet, a backup outside of the tablet, obviously

– do a backup copy of C:\Windows\INF\TouchSetting.gt file (needed for the capacitive win key), again outside the tablet

– make a bootable UEFI USB drive with the windows 10 .iso

– connect the bootable usb drive + a mouse-keyboard combo in the 2 usb slots

– turn on the tablet and “spam” delete and forward delete buttons to enter the bios

– on the last tab of the bios select manually the usb drive (override) and launch W10 installation

– after w10 is installed do what you need to activate your copy of windows

– connect to the internet trought wifi, do all updates (do multiple reboots, and multiple check for updates)

– when finished with updates do a reboot and go to device manager (right click on windows logo at bottom left)

– for all unistalled hardware, do manual install and select a folder where to search the drivers, select the backup folder you did with DoubleDriver

– copy back again the TouchSettings.gt file into C:\Windows\INF for the capacitive win key

I’ve done like this and everything seems pretty good.

 

Good news!

My pen arrived! Works great!

(ok not comparable with surface or iPad pro pens, but great for 15$!)

It’s active, with an AAAA battery, it has very less input lag compared to normal touchscreen, good thing.

When you touch the screen with the pen, normal touchscreen will be disabled, to re-enable the normal touchscreen you will have to remove the pen AND the hand(s) from the screen, this is indeed correct, good again.

Microsoft Paint doesn’t read pressure levels on my tablet, but Autodesk Sketchbook DO (it’s a simple app from the store, I’ll search for something better now), this means everything is ok for now.

405$ at GearBest for tablet, keyboard, pen and 64GB microSD + 80$ for shipment duty

80$ for KingSpec 256GB M.2 2242 SSD + 30$ of shipment duty

15$ for glass protector

Total of 610$ for now, and everything seems pretty good! Overall I’m very happy for now.

Cons of the tablet:

– small SSD, 64GB is few for Windows, keep in mind another expense for a bigger one

– 16:9 display, somehow ugly form factor for a tablet, 11.6 inch “seems” a lot, but in reality it’s not much bigger compared an 9.8 inch ipad, it’s just wider with larger borders… meh… we can’t have everything…

– Sharp borders + Heavy (930g) , not really practical as most of other tablets

– Wifi somehow slow

– Runs hot when cpu under medim/high use (people says it’s normal for the cpu it has), copper plates mod required

– Battery is mediocre… maybe

 

[Robert]

For at home I have this LAN connection:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZOJX7W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687502&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00LM07HG2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JMNNSFQARSS4HPE5V0K

Inside WiFi ist very bad…:(

My new project is on the old SSD with USB a Linux Debian … 🙂

Merry Christmas

[Hualalai]

I use ZTC enclosures that accommodate any 22mm wide M.2 card.

http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-G/dp/B00OYIS5RY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41L%2BYL7jKdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0FWNG8PZ3JYJXEYAP5A9

I use Acronis to clone.  What do you use?

Also, please inspect your main board for solder tags -, +, D-, and D+… which indicate an unused USB port.  See. http://techtablets.com/forum/topic/add-a-full-size-usb-port-on-x98-pro/  My guess is that the X2 Pro has all USB ports fully configured, but it would be great to drop the guts of a 5GHz ac wifi  dongle inside the case.

Also on the mod list is a LiPo battery with higher power density… but that’s not urgent.

 

[kurai]

{Copy of a post I made on XDA a short while ago, which also covers some of the questions asked here}

 

I finally received my Hi10 + dock keyboard yesterday (22/12/2015).

There was a bit of a delay (2.5 weeks or so) with shipping from the AliExpress seller as a lot of the initial manufacturing run had been returned to factory to sort out the screen flicker & overheating problems etc.

On the plus side :
Mine shows no sign of the flicker issue and seems to stay at reasonable temperature without noticable performance throttling.
Comes with plastic screen protector fitted, and a spare in the box.
The docking keyboard is solidly built (and *heavy* – presumably to stop the thing toppling over backwards), the hinge/latch seems robust and holds the tablet firmly without wobbling & the trackpad works well.
The lower (or left, depending how you look at it) tablet USB port is definitely USB 3 even though it’s not blue. It achieved peak 140/60 MB/s R/W on a USB 3 thumbdrive, whereas the other ports maxxed at 40/22 MB/s R/W on the same device.

On the minus side :
It’s got 32bit Win10 installed. Some users at Techtablets.com have received 64bit versions in the last day or two, so I must have one from “batch 1.5” and they got “batch 2.0″ 🙂 Guess I’ll have to wait for Chuwi to release the 64bit upgrade UEFI/BIOS/OS update as various people say they’ve promised to in the next month or two.
The additional full-size USB port on the side of the keyboard is driven from the USB 2 hub/lane, not the USB 3 one.
The docking keyboard’s weight comes from a steel plate in the base, rather than a supplementary battery. Not that anyone ever claimed any different, but it’s pretty much impossible to find any definitive specs of the dock online and one has to be optimistic 😉

Talking of optimism – the product label on the side of the box has the Android side of the Windows <=> Android line unchecked (my device certainly isn’t dual bootable) but maybe this means that they are keeping it open as an option somewhere down the line, maybe with the Win10 64bit update.

While I think of it – Intel WiDi (Wireless Display casting) isn’t available/doesn’t work, even though the Atom Z8300 & Broadcom BCM4343 WiFi are supposedly capable of it and a Hi10 spec I saw on Chuwi’s site clearly states it as a feature. Again – maybe it’s something only available in 64bit (since the Intel WiDi switcher applet from their site only seems to come as 64bit) or Chuwi only shipped non WiDi enabled 32bit Intel drivers.

Edit: For sake of completeness I just tested the USB 3 thumbdrive in the micro-USB/charging port with an OTG adapter – that also maxxes out at USB 2 rates.

Attachments:

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[Marcin Kruszyński]

Hi,

I’ve received this tablet today with docking keyboard and some weird chinese gift (anyone knows what is it?).

The problem is I changed some settings in BIOS (enabled Fast Boot and something else) and It looks i can switch it on, because USB ports do the power on, but I can’t see anything on the screen. It doesn’t seem to connect to the WiFi neither.
I opened him up, but it doesn’t look like it has some “reset-BIOS-magic-button”. Has anyone know what can i do with that? Is there any solution? Is there any way to reset BIOS? I thought of disconnecting battery, but it’s soldered to mainboard and I don’t wanna do this without trying something else.

 

Thank you.

[Anonymous]

The modified firmware I created has been online for 4 months so I think it’s time to remove it from this forum. The main reason is that I no longer plan to monitor the download and I  don’t like having links that are orphaned or download files on my Google drive that serve no purpose. Besides I figured that with the new batch of Chinese tablets that are being released that everyone who needed to download the firmware has done so.  I use the V919-Core M as my daily driver and have had no problems with either Windows or this  modified version  Android.    Good luck to everyone.

V919 Core M – v13 – debloated – root – Google Services – No performance tweaks – Originally released Dec 19, 2015 – re-uploaded Dec 30, 2015

Dec 30, 2015 – Below I will list the order in which you should setup the new installed firmware.

Let me remind you that …. IF YOU AREN’T COMFORTABLE INSTALLING NON-STANDARD FIRMWARE …. THEN DON’T.

This firmware contains:

1- Default is English / Eastern Time Zone
2- Root
3- Google Services
4- Google location services is working
5- Strongly Debloated – Removed stock chinese programs including stock launcher (Replaced with Nova Launcher)

What is not working:

1- Stock VPN (Other VPN programs do work)
2- There are item that appear in the system logs. Use Logcat to see for yourself.
3- FIXED – I find the tablet is slow to come out of standby.

Weird stuff:

1- The Google standard camera is installed but the camera icon on the desktop pertains to the old camera so it doesn’t work.  You can just delete it.
2- When you first boot into Android it will take you through the setup process.  When it comes to asking you to setup the wifi I would suggest selecting “skip” and setting up the wifi in the settings section. If you don’t then the wifi setup window will keep asking you to select a wifi hotspot. Avoid the hassle and use the setting wifi setup.

This firmware is installed using the same method as the other released firmware. i.e. burning image to USB stick, etc. It takes a few minutes to install and the first boot takes a while so don’t panic. If ,for whatever reason, the install goes wrong you can just reinstall the official release.

If you plan on installing Windows you must have the the correct dual boot BIOS installed and then you need to install Android first.  Installing Android first will erase the Windows partition. Once Android is stalled you can fresh install Windows as you normally would  When installing select the largest partition space that is on your hard drive and install it there. If you see other partitions I would not delete them incase they affect the Android installation. After installation use the standard methods to switch back and forth between the two operating systems. I started with a completely blank hard drive and quickly setup Windows using this method and it worked. I was able to easily switch back and forth.

Here is the order in which you should setup the new installed firmware. It is important you follow this order as to avoid any conflict with out of date programs. For example the Playservices installed is not actually correct so updating the file will install the correct Playservices version.

1) Install the firmware using usb stick that has the IMG file burned to it.
2) Once the install is done and you have booted for the first time you will see the setup wizard menu.  Setup what you can but skip the SIM and Wifi setup. You will do this in the settings section.
3) Once the setup wizard is done you will notice a Supersu popup window stating that a file needs to be updated.  Update the file using the normal process. Then reboot when done.
4) When you are back after the reboot go directly to the settings section and setup the WiFi and then to the accounts section and add your Google account.
5) Once your account is active then  exit the setup section and go to the app section and select the blue “G” icon.  This will launch and the program will state that there is an update available.  Install the update.  When the update is complete and other window will appear that tells you need to update Playservices.  Update this file.  Google Playstore is updating in the background so you may get an error message the first time you attempt to install the Playservices update.  You just have to try it again.
6) Once Playservice is installed,  open the actual Playstore and only update the files that have updates available.  Don’t install anything new, yet.  The reason is that I think I put files in the system/app directory that shouldn’t be “locked” away.  The updates will put the new files in the proper location.
7) Once this is all done then reboot.
8) Proceed installation as usual.

LINK REMOVED

Please feel free to modifiy to your hearts content. Let me know if you have any questions.

Mr Dasher

[Daniel]

Hualalai wrote:

@Robert. That dongle has good specs, but it’s alot to carry around. I like the nano-dongles that simple stay in the USB port. @Daniel. The antennas will work with that wifi modem, but the unknown element is whether the modem will work in the M.2 slot. Note that disclaimer “won’t work in Lenovo notebooks” in the modem specs. If the OEM wifi module in the X2 Pro is socketed, then the best solution is to replace module. If it’s SDM… SOL.

 

Ok, thats true, but look at this. This item says its compatible with many laptops, like dell, asus etc. But it says that it doesnt work with lenovo. Maybe there something special with lenovo laptops that just dont work with NGFF cards?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Broadcom-BCM94352Z-Wireless-AC-NGFF-802-11ac-867M-wifi-Bluetooth-BT-4-0-Card-/171977882001?hash=item280aae3991

[Hualalai]

@Robert.  That dongle has good specs, but it’s alot to carry around.  I like the nano-dongles that stay in the USB port.

@Daniel.  The antennas will work with that wifi modem, but the unknown element is whether the modem will work in the M.2 slot.  Note that disclaimer “won’t work in Lenovo notebooks” in the modem specs.

If the OEM wifi module in the X2 Pro is socketed, then the best solution is to replace that module.  If it’s SMD… SOL.

[Daniel]

Hualalai wrote:

@Daniel. You could buy a wifi module… but which module? There are hundreds. I use a USB 3 mini-wifi dongle (AC600). In the future we’ll see AC1200 and higher from dongles. http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Network-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B00WIHV4EO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450471683&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+3+wifi&psc=1

Robert wrote:

The built-in WiFi is not good, 4G is certainly a lot better in the connection.

 

I had this in mind:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC-7265-7265NGW-NGFF-Card-802-11ac-867m-2×2-Wifi-BT4-0-/301561369449?hash=item4636755369:g:lA4AAOSwNSxVAlqH

 

With these antennas, think the module will work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-pair-of-IPEX-MHF4-2-4-5G-wifi-antennas-for-Intel-7260-7265-NGFF-card-18-5cm-/261930799646?hash=item3cfc4ad21e:g:YH8AAOSw3xJVfo6X

 

[Hualalai]

@Daniel.  You could buy a wifi module… but which module?  There are hundreds.  I use a USB 3 mini-wifi dongle (AC600).  In the future we’ll see AC1200 and higher from dongles.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014PDRIRU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

[Julie Hine]

Saw a reply to this question on one of the sellers Q&A ( Gearbest.com, I think ).
It said that charging via the OTG hub/port is not supported whilst peripherals are connected. This would damage the Tablets battery due to overcharging so you have decide to either power and use the attached devices or charge the Tablet ( not both together ). Hence the little switch to switch between the 2 modes.
I also some found other ‘otg’ intelegent powered hubs ( apart from the one sold frequently with the Teclast tablet, with the 2,3 or 4 dangly leads and a mode switch ) dont work at all !

I would be interested if anyone knows of a way around this as its scuppered me using a powered USB directional Wifi aerial when abroad in the camper from downloading movies and TV as the Tablets battery wont last long enough to leave it overnight downloading.

[john]

My (no)progress is:

1 I uploaded W10 from W8.1 that the Chuwi brings. With the official tool of Windows. At this point everything works…usb wifi touch…

2 Put the settings of the BIOS like Frederic said.

3 Install the drivers called Genesis pack,

Result: Touch doesnt work… wifi usb ok.

 

Next step. Install W10 from Frederic`s images and see what happen. MyBIOS is J1D so its the good one.

[Crapton]

Hi everybody, I am new here and a recent owner of a X98 3G Air from Gearbest.com. All is fine, product looks nice and shipment went OK.

After a short while I decided to update Android to Mirek Lollipop V 6.0 ultralight flashed with Mirek batch tool. Unfortunately I did not check 3G connection in Android or Windows.

<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Android Mirek Lollipop V6.0 3G problem</span>

Phone works just no data whatever I do. I have a SIM from a local provider. X98 I switch off WIFI, immediately no data. I test SIM in my old Galaxy Tab2 with WIFI off and this works fine to email and open web pages in Firefox Android. Enough MB available, 3G connection HSPA is there etc, full 3G connectivity with Internet. So SIM and connection should be OK. Even called  provider APN is OK according provider and what I find on Internet. It is the same as on my Galaxy Tab2 on Kitkat 4.4.4. which has NO problem it works flawlessly so SIM or account are not locked.

Again same SIM in X98 with Mirek V6. I adjust all settings the same, APN etc. Switch off WIFI. Exclamation mark, no web page loading Firefox Android, my Whatsapp text and smileys however working almost instantaneously two ways. But high res pics both ways NOT working. Lo res pics I do see both directions up and download.

So almost like there is some filter cutting off anything larger than say 1024 bytes or so.  Also working in stock Android browser does not change anything, it does not even open google.com but is like stuck at 25% error name not resolved.

Is there a bug somewhere in the ROM? Or is this some setting I missed somewhere?  I tried a lot of things such as dialing *#*#4636#*#* etc, calling my provider, again putting the SIM in my old Galaxy Tab2, checking Android Status.
Data bundle, SIM, provider, APN, general settings all are OK. Status tells me network name, signal strenght -78 dBm, UMTS, In service, roaming (required by provider), network state = connected, IMEI is known. Phone works, Whatsapp works and small amounts of data are transferred. Just loading a web page does NOT work so there is some data block.

I also read a lot about some bug in Lollipop 5.0? Could that be in this Mirek ROM? Anyway there is a connection to the provider network, there just is NO data. Anyone have a clue and can help?

<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Windows 10 (stock) 3G problem</span>

In addition to above I was checking how to enable 3G data in Windows 10. I see NO indication of 3G networking next to WIFI in my X98. I received a new C5J6 model with Windows 10 preinstalled, I changed absolutely nothing to BIOS or Windows 10 and the same SIM as mentioned does NOT show up. Incredible.

I do not know what is going on but I am really getting a bit upset here, 3G was reason for buying X98. It is supposed to have 3G by default in Windows 10 default and it does not even see the 3G SIM. In Android I did upgrade to Mirek Lollipop V6 works fine and does see the SIM, I can even call, <u>but NO data</u>. How can I have problems in 2 operating systems?

Can this be wrong in the stock BIOS? How can I see what BIOS is installed?

 

<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Flashing problem</span>
Flashing MIrek Lollipop went smooth but for some reason the flasher does not see the X98 any more. Driver issue possibly. Installed various drivers multiple times using different methods as discussed here. Trying MFT and Mirek’s bat file to flash. X98 is in DnX mode for sure, I did switch on USB developer. Restarted PC and X98 several times. I guess this is some driver issue, but unclear why this is happening. I run Windows 10 on my desktop.

 

<span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>Battery problem</span>

Also today battery went down from 60% to 20% in like 30 mins, straight line. Not even using it. Before also several times now battery level drops off really steep at say 50-60% goes down to 20% in 30 min. Nowhere close to 8-10 hours running time, more like 3-4 which is really unacceptable. Did they change battery capacity (indicated something 4800 mAh instead 8500 mAh). I just read this may be fixed by improved Android flashing method.

 

As you can read several problems, but the most irritating is NO 3G data in Mirek Lollipop Android and NO 3G at all in stock Windows 10. I am a bit lost and hope someone can give me some suggestions. Thanks in advance!