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Hello everyone!
It is now approximately a week since I have the Chuwi Hi8 Pro. I bought it in a Spanish store (powerplanetonline) and it arrive at my home December 31st. I been using it for some days before posting and I am quite happy with it.I can’t compare with other tablets as this is my first one with windows, but the impressions are positive. I’ve not being able to test it thoroughly (as I don’t have a type-c to usb adaptor to test the port or connect a mouse), but so far, so good.- The screen looks gorgeous, it’s perfect for videos and comics for example.
- The micro-sd is up to 64 Gb (tested) as it says in the small manual in the box, I don’t know if it will recognize 128 Gb cards.
- The wifi seems to works fine.
- 20 Gb (approx) of free space in the hard drive at first boot.
- I need some more time to test the battery, but seems OK.
- When you have been using it for a while it feels a little bit warm, I think nothing out of the usual.
- The HDMI is a micro-HDMI and works fine.
- Some electronic noise using the headphones, not important but increased when using cellphone headphones with microphone built-in.
- The tablet doesn’t seems to have a microphone, or at least is not detected by windows.
Use at your own risk. I’m not responsible for any damage this method may do to your tablet.
Pre upgrade
1. Check your hardware version. If you have Broadcom WiFi you have V200 version. Realtek = V300
2. Backup your data. After BIOS update 32bit Windows won’t boot.
3. Charge battery
4. Download BIOS and Windows files from https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7UJF0mw6LjJaExLQl9wRG9WVHM&usp=sharing
Mega.nz mirror: https://mega.nz/#F!r8N2EAJL!obFGbr7l7C_Mj8Q3_QVcfg
– V200_32bit_to_64bit_bios.zip – BIOS 603 + autoflash script
– C106.CHUWI.S.10.TH2.ZH&US&HK&RU&ES&KR.1215.X64.V200.part1.rar – 64bit Windows p1
– C106.CHUWI.S.10.TH2.ZH&US&HK&RU&ES&KR.1215.X64.V200.part2.rar – 64bit Windows p2
5. Unpack files
6. Prepare two USB drives (one minimum 8GB and one minimum 512MB)BIOS
1. Format USB Drive (Fat32)
2. Copy content of V200_32bit_to_64bit_bios directory to root of your USB Drive
3. Connect keyboard and power on tablet
4. Press F7 and select your USB drive
5. Wait for finish
6. Tablet should reboot at end (Sometimes it may turn off)
7. If everything goes correctly you have 64-bit BIOS.WINDOWS
1. Format smaller USB Drive (FAT32). Copy content of USB1 directory to root of drive and change drive label to Winpe
2. Format second USB Drive (NTFS). Copy content of USB2 directory to root of drive and change drive label to Winpe
Tip from @kurai “You can also (if drive is large enough) have the contents of both on a single NTFS thumbdrive and it works fine.”
3. Insert USB drives and power on tablet
4. Winpe will start and script will do rest. At the end tablet shuts down.
Tips: If winpe won’t boot swap USB Drives (ports). You can also change boot order or press F7 and select proper drive.I’m sorry that the tutorial isn’t very detailed. Maybe someone will describe it better 🙂
Many thanks to @Alvaro and @fbrozovic for filesEdit:
“P02-C106_B101UAN_607_RealTek_wifi_20151224.zip” – BIOS 607 for V300 hardware (Realtek) – Tested by @1asbak1
“C106 V300.part1.rar” & “C106 V300.part2.rar” – contains “C106.CHUWI.S.10.TH2.ZH&US&HK&RU&ES.1226.X64.V300.zip” and “P02-C106_B101UAN_607_RealTek_wifi_20151224.zip” – Not testedBeen in the hunt for appropriate sub-notebook/2in1/whats the proper name/ low spec asus t100/surface type device for primary school students (10 & 12 yo).
NSW (.au) education dept. require 5mhz wifi which can be overcome (fingers crossed) by;
Dual band wifi (2.4mhz & 5mhz) std size usb receiver/sender nodules can be bought & delivered for $15au! – I am of course assuming they have decent range etc. They appear to do the full gamut of current and draft 802.11 wifi standards, which means a whole range of cheaper 2in1 are good to use in schools across australia (which predominently only have 5mhz wifi, so parents had to buy more expensive t100 etc).
So, if you had to buy a “value” netbook(?) for students aged 10 -13yo, with touchscreen/decent keyboard & touchpad(?)>mouse thing & at least 1 full size usb 2.0 port(for the 5mhz wifi adapter above)& one micro usb/charge port, w8.1 or w10, say min 9.7″, with speaker(s) & mic & preferably basic front & back cameras, robust, 2/32 with memory card slot, hdmi out nice luxury & decent (say min.) 1366? x 768? or 1280?x800 (ips nice) which of the current crop would be best suited?
say under $200US ($280au). I think ergonomic (ie screen angle not fixed position) also important. Build quality (longevity), warranty & customer service should also be considerations.
Appreciate all genuine opinions (ie no vested interests please!)
cheers
Adrian
Hello guys, I’ve a coupon for this tablet and I was wondering if I should actually buy it.
Some photos:
Specs:
Operating system: Windows10 OS
Display: 8 Inch IPS 1280*800, 10 Points Capacitive touch screen
CPU: Intel Cherry Trail X5 Z8300 Quad Core 1.84GHz CPU
Storage: 2GB DDR3 RAM + 32GB eMMC ROM, T-Flash 64GB max
Dual cameras: Front 2.0MP + Rear 2.0MP
Functions: Support Bluetooth 4.0/OTG/HDMI/WiFi/Type-CHere’s a review: http://geekbuyingen.blogspot.it/2015/12/chuwi-vi8-plus-unboxing-performance.html
and unboxing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpyYm3cfBi0I really like this tablet because it’s cheap and it has a USB type-C port, but I’d like your opinion before I go ahead.
BTW if you’re interested like me, the coupon code is CHUWIVI8 on geekbuying, everybody can use it.
Thanks in advance.
The Teclast X2 Pro is an extraordinary platform for modification. The most popular mods are:
- Adding a 4G modem (! Yes, the X2 Pro is fully configured with (i) an M.2 2242 socket for a Huawei ME906x 4G modem and (ii) regular size SIM socket, both of which are concealed by the backplate), and
- Replacing the M.2 2242 64GB SSD with a 512GB SSD (Transcend or ZTC).
To mod, you need to get the backplate off, and the the usual disclaimer applies… all this is at your own risk, no warranties (and please don’t use metal spudgers near the batteries, the skin of the LiPo cells is surprising soft). After the section on backplate removal, the thermal, modem, SSD, wifi, and other mods will be explained.
HOW TO REMOVE THE BACKPLATE OF AN X2 PRO
The original production run of the X2 Pro, through approximately 01 Nov. 2015, used plastic tabs to secure the backplate, and no adhesive. The “all tabs and no adhesive” method was replaced by “no tabs and all adhesive” around that date. If you have a “gen 1” model, you don’t need a heat gun, and can follow along with the heat gun method below understanding that heating the backplate is optional (it will soften the plastic tabs and reduce the chance of fracturing a tab).
You will need a hairdryer, or better, a heat gun. There are no plastic tabs used on the current “gen 2” X2 Pro, but there IS ALOT OF ADHESIVE applied around the edge of the backplate. The backplate is does not cover the top and bottom 2cm of the back. That 2 cm, T and B, is plastic. The backplate is like a flattened “U” that wraps the edges. The adhesive is only applied around the margin of the backplate, not in the middle. The thinnest strand is along the side with the USB, SIM (hidden), SD, HDMI, and HP ports.
DO NOT START FROM THE VOLUME/POWER BUTTON SIDE. Heat all along the side with the USB, SIM (hidden), SD, HDMI, and HP ports and back about 6 cm from the edge along the top and bottom. I used a heatgun at 1150F, high blower, 5cm away, for about 15 seconds. Insert a spudger between the inboard USB port and the SD port… that is the area of least adhesive… and work the back plate up. The backplate is aluminum, it will flex easily once the adhesive melts a bit. Work from the middle of the “ports edge” out to the sides and then back along the T and B edges in the area that you heated. If the aluminum does not lift up easily, STOP, and apply more heat. When the adhesive is soft, the backplate lifts up EASILY. Only lift the backplate up about 5 mm, then put placeholder spudgers in (or guitar picks). Heat up the middle T and B edges of the backplate, and put placeholders in, then heat up the edge with the volume control and power button, and lift off the backplate. The volume and power buttons stay attached internally (now you know why you started from the “ports” side.).
You’ll probably need thin metal spudgers to get started in the USB to SD port area, but move to plastic spudgers as soon as you can get plastic spudgers in. You do NOT want to use metal spudgers in the battery area.
The hot adhesive has a pleasant smell… if you can smell it, it’s past the temperature that it is soft enough to pull off the backplate.
Do not attempt to pull off the backplate without heat… you WILL bend the aluminum.
The thermal mod should really improve cooling. In my unit, the CPU and eMMC are covered by a screwed down copper plate with a thermal pad on top of the copper plate. It is clear to see on my unit that only a small part of the thermal pad was in contact with the backplate.
Also, the backplate includes an RF shield in the 4G modem area, even though the modem socket is empty. Thanks, Teclast.
THERMAL MOD
The Core M 5Y10c CPU is rated at 15 W TDP, and has more processing power than most Atom CPUs (4.5 W TDP), and is close to the M3 6Y30 (and even surpasses the 6Y30 in handling video). There’s a reason the backplate on an X2 Pro is thick aluminum… heat dissipation, most of which is from the GPU in the Core M. There are many approaches to building a better connection from the CPU to the backplate, but most approaches involve layers of thermal pad, thermal paste, and/or copper sheets. The preferred brand of pad and paste is Artic Silver (make sure to use “thermally conductive, electrically non-conductive” paste). The pads come in 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5 mm thicknesses. Copper sheets come in various X and Y dimensions, but are usually the same thickness, 1mm (much heavier than a thermal pad). eBay, Amazon, etc., sell pads, paste, and copper sheets. Unlike many tablets, the X2 Pro has a copper plate (49mm x 52mm) screwed in place against the CPU. The stock thermal pad is 47mm square, 1mm thick. I replaced the stock thermal pad with a 1.5mm thick, 49mm x 52mm, Artic Silver thermal pad lightly adhered to the copper plate (the stock thermal pad is not very adhesive, and is easily peeled off), and adhered an 0.5mm Artic Silver (55mm x 55mm) thermal pad to the backplate. The “adjustment” mechanism is one or more thermal pad layers. You can build up the pad in 0.5mm layers until you get a full area of thermal pad contact on the copper sheet. From the factory, my X2 Pro only had about 20% of the thermal pad in contact with the backplate. I tried a 1mm thermal pad on the stock mobo plate and 1mm thick copper sheet adhered to the backplate, but decided the second copper plate added too much weight.
ADDING A MODEM AND SIM CARD
The X2 Pro is in many ways a shrunken X1 Pro (12.2″ to 11.6″, reduced PPI, and about USD 300 less expensive): same CPU, SSD, …. and SIM slot and M.2 modem socket, only Teclast covered up access to the SIM slot in the X2 Pro. The reason the SIM slot is covered and the modem socket is empty is probably because drivers for the Huawei ME906x (2242 form factor) used in the X1 Pro (a Win 8.1 device) don’t work in Win 10. The ME906x, where “x” is a regional suffix, “V” for the Americas, “J” for Japan, and “E” for Europe and most of the remainder of the world, needs a firmware update for Win 10. There is a firmware update for the E version, and some members have reported successful 4G mods using the the E version and Huawei’s Global Partner comm manager. The usual sellers in Shenzen sell the ME906E model, with a pair of antennae. One antenna is GPS, the other is 4G/3G. Like all M.2 sockets, the modem socket is keyed. In the X2 Pro, the modem socket is keyed B. The popular Intel 7265 modem is A+E keyed, and will not fit in the X2 Pro. So, with the backplate off, attach the antennae to the modem card, slide the modem under the plastic lip of the case, and seat the modem in the M.2 socket. Route the antennae around the edge of the mobo and batteries, and tape in place. So… if you live in an E region, buy an ME906E modem from a vendor that has the latest USB driver and firmware update, update the modem firmware, install the Huawei USB driver (the modem is a USB 2.0 device), install Global Partner, and see if you can get it to work (it will take some work in Device Manager). TMK, Huawei has not published a firmware update for the V and J versions, and may not do so, since the ME906x has been superseded.
To access the SIM socket, you have two choices: do nothing, or get your Dremel tool out. Unless you cut out an access hole in the backplate for the SIM socket (between the inboard USB 3.0 socket and the uSD socket), you’ll have to remove the backplate to change the SIM card.
SSD REPLACEMENT
This is the easiest of all… physically. Cloning is the hard part, discussed in depth elsewhere. Use an SSD maker’s cloning tool, Clonezilla Live, or a zillion other cloning tools, clone your boot drive on a larger capacity M.2, 2242 format, SSD, keyed B+M. Once cloned, swap the SSDs. Popular 2242 SSDs are Transcend and ZTC, both have models up to 512GB.
At this point, you’ve saved at least USD 1,000 compared to buying a new Miix 700 with 4G (if you could buy one, 4G versions are not yet available, and storage maxes out at 256GB). 4G isn’t an option on the SP4 (the cheapest SP4 with 512GB is USD 1700, and no 4G). Most used SP3 tablets with 4G I’ve seen only have 64GB of storage; an SP3 with 512GB of storage is USD 1900, and no 4G.
BETTER WIFI
The bundled N wifi on the Pro X2 sucks. USD 20 buys AC happiness.
USB 3.0 POWERED HUB
I find I have zero stutter with USB 3.0 peripherals when I use a USB 3.0 powered hub (USD 17). With a passive hub, I’ve seen stutters.
GLASS SCREEN PROTECTOR
The plastic screen protector bundled with the X2 Pro feels sticky… esp. when navigating with a finger. A glass screen protector greatly improves your tactile experience.
DUAL BOOT
A direct execution of Android, not a virtual Android machine: boot from pendrive loaded with Android “without installation”. It takes longer to load than the Android emulator that Teclast provides, but it runs much better and without the size limitations the emulator has. Just remember to select “run without installation” when the pendrive boots. You can make an uSD card bootable and go through UEFI (hold F7 during power-on, go to Setup … unless you know EFI scripting and can use the EFI script option) when you want to use Android.
OR … dual boot Win 10/Android (Win partition shrunk, new volume for Android created from freed-up space, Android installed). Haven’t tried this.
This thread is a distillation of the successful mods reported in the main X2 Pro thread by myself and other members.
Search Results for 'usb wifi'
Search Results for 'usb wifi'
