Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[Ysrthgrathe]

Installed Win 11 last weekend.

Used program: Double Driver to backup existing win 10 drivers to micro sd card and to later restore them under 11.

Used a powered USB hub, usb-C adapter, USB keyboard/mouse and a sd multicard reader USB stick.

Used Ghost Spectre stripped down win 11 iso, you can find him on YouTube. (I Had a win 11 key – which you can add after installation)

Had iso added to a program Ventoy usb bootable.

Hit esc on boot for bios needs otherwise F7 to usb boot

Booted win 11 iso from Ventoy went into setup.

I was only making a windows tablet for my kitchen as this tablet is damaged and wasn’t impressed with the android implementation.

Thus I deleted every partition it had. Create new partition and sub windows partitions.

After a longer install time than expected over 15 min? It eventually booted into windows.

Basic computer style no touch or on board sd card reading.

Still using powered hub setup I used usb card reader,  double driver, and the backup to reinstall win 10 drivers. Drivers installed about as slowly as the windows installation itself.

After which I had touchscreen tablet functionality back.

I then set it up for youtube and recipe needs in my kitchen.

Unsolved issues with install:

1.Touch keyboard shows to enter pin at login. It’s missing in action on Taskbar search and web browser input.

Temp fix pinned onscreen keyboard button to Taskbar.

Could be the stripped down win 11 used or some setting outside of the usual keyboard settings?

2. I don’t have the stock ac adapter if it came with one, literally saved this from going to a dumpster.

Battery charges halfassedly if at all. I have seen it get up to 100% initially but it’s been hovering around 65% to 40% with my samsung fast charger.

Even charging while it’s off hasn’t made much difference.

Pretty sure I either need a new battery or the correct charger if someone can point me at one.

I very much doubt this being a software issue.

3. When it boots it still shows the Android/windows choice screen first and haven’t found a way to skip straight to windows without it.

 

Hope this helps someone or helps with my final 3 issues. It’s not a terrible tablet works pretty smoothly under 11 despite my above issues.

I might use a usb add on antenna for perhaps better wifi pickup since I mount in a stationary position off the wall.

 

 

 

 

[panda]

My Thinker i35 keeps turning into rainbow screen after just a bit of usage

I removed the installed M.2 SSD and booted from a USB Live Ubuntu thumb drive and the same thing happens

The same thing happens if I booted from a USB Live Android thumb drive

The exact point at which the rainbow screen appears may vary slightly from occasion to occasion

It almost always appears at the point when I connect to the wifi

I just don’t know whether it is a BIOS or UEFI virus or a hardware problem

I have connected the i35 to an external display.  When the laptop screen goes berserk, the external display goes blank at the same time.  So I think the LCD screen is fine

Is there anyway I can download the original BIOS and reflash it?

[AttilaB]

Please help me!

Hello. I formatted an Ezpad 6 and installing Windows 10 from USB. Unfortunately now audio, wifi, touch, video card and others no longer work. The problem is due to missing drivers, which I can no longer find. Unfortunately, I only read late afterwards that I should have used the double driver program. Would someone do something to save me all drivers? Thank you in advance for your help!

Double Driver

[AttilaB]

Please help me!

Hello. I formatted an Ezpad 6 and installing Windows 10 from USB. Unfortunately now audio, wifi, touch, video card and others no longer work. The problem is due to missing drivers, which I can no longer find. Unfortunately, I only read late afterwards that I should have used the double driver program. Would someone do something to save me all drivers? Thank you in advance for your help!

Double Driver

[Matteo]

Hi. I formatted an Ezpad 6 installing Windows 10 from usb. Unfortunately now audio, wifi, touch, video card no longer work. The problem is due to missing drivers, which I can no longer find. How could I solve the problem? Thanks in advance.

[Andrea]

I didn’t need windows anymore so I deleted it. I installed Bliss 11.11 in this way: Booted the chuwi hi12 from an USB key created from Rufus with Bliss 11.11 ISO file, erased all existent partitions in chuwi (windows and android). Made a second boot and selected “automatic install” option. That’s all. Anyway unfortunately I realised today that after a while wifi signal stops while using bluetooth speaker… May be any interference? Tried different BT earphones and speakers… Always the same problem.. wifi goes down and never come back alive until reboot or aero on/off mode. Tried also audio extractor from hdmi… Nothing.

[Miguel]

Hi everyone!

I was pretty happy with my BMAX Y13 but in the last weeks (since a W10 update) I’m experiencing different issues with WiFi, Bluetooth, speakers, Shut Down option and Restart option that makes my laptop completely useless.

I think it is a problem between W10 update and drivers (but I have all of them up to date) so after several tries of working with drivers and energy options I thought about W10 reset. It didn’t work. The next option: clean W10 install to get the original drivers which worked ok, the issue is that the BIOS of this computer doesn’t bring the option to boot from USB.

My last option, and I hope this works is to restore the Windows 10 1903 v2.0 available at https://www.bmaxit.com/en/Download/Laptops/ How can I restore this image? If anyone who had similar problems and solved them can help me I’ll be very grateful.

Thanks to all of you! 😉

[Thymidin]

Hi,

Some versions of the EZBook X1 (N4100) seems to be unable to make the WiFi and the touchscreen work on Linux (don’t try this on the Appolo Lake version of this machine, as far as I know, WiFi should work out of the box). It seems to be a BIOS (UEFI) related problem. So here is the solution I used to make everything work.

— DISCLAIMER —

The use of any provided information and presented BIOSes is completly at your OWN risk!
I do not take any responsibilities for your actions or damages caused by following the tutorial.

I figured out that the Teclast F5 3.06 BIOS works on this machine, however the internal speaker don’t work on Windows and on Linux after that.

So, here is how to make everything work (at your OWN risk) :

First part : Windows

1.1. Using AFUWINGUIx64.exe on Windows 10, save your current BIOS. You will need it if something go wrong.

1.2. Flash the Teclast F5 bios (attached at the end of this topic) the way you do it usually (AFUWINGUIx64 is not the safest way but you could still do it, I guess). Note that this will change the Jumper boot logo for the Teclast one.

1.3. Reboot on Windows, everything still works (as far as I know) except the internal speaker. To correct this, just paste the HDACfg.dat (attachement at the end of the topic) in Windows/system32/drivers and reboot. Now your internal speaker should be back to normal.

Second part: GNU/Linux

2.1 Install the Linux distro you want to use. The Wifi and Touchscreen should work (try it before with a liveUSB).

2.2 Open the terminal. And type:

sudo nano /lib/firmware/hda-jack-retask.fw

Then paste this

[codec]
0x10ec0282 0x10ec1194 0

[pincfg]
0x12 0x90a60140
0x14 0x90170120
0x17 0x40000000
0x18 0x411111f0
0x19 0x21ab9030
0x1a 0x411111f0
0x1b 0x411111f0
0x1d 0x40e8bb45
0x1e 0x411111f0
0x21 0x042b1010

2.3 Open the terminal. And type:

sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/hda-jack-retask.conf

Then paste this

options snd-hda-intel patch=hda-jack-retask.fw

2.4 Reboot. Everything should work.

 

Let me know if this worked for you and if you have some difficulties so I can improve this guide.

EDIT 12/06/2020 : Modified the Linux part to make it much simpler and compatible. Confirmed to work on latest Manjaro.

EDIT 14/06/2020 : I forgot to add the 2.3 last time. Fixed now.

Attachments:

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[mobby_6kl]

david wrote:

if it helps somebody I’m using the 20000mah powerbank from xiaomi ”mi powerbank 3 pro” 45w and works like a charm… it charges the cubemix very fast and no problem till now

Yeah, thanks! Many of the larger power banks (20Ah) seem to support >30W out over USB-PD which should definitely work great. I just didn’t want a huge brick to carry with me, the smaller ones are just about small enough that I can carry them in the bag or even in the pocket if I think I’ll need it.

 

Here’s a test I just ran.

Tablet set to TPD Down in BIOS, using live Debian system because I screwed around with power plans and XTU too much by now. Brightness at around 25%, connected to access point around 2m away and playing a 10 hours of underwater video from BBC.

So it lasted almost exactly 4 hours on the powerbank and then another 3:15 on the battery (which definitely needs to be calibrated). It’d be great to last 8 hours without the power bank but still, not too bad. I think this youtube test was pretty hard on it, as it had to run wifi and decoding all the time, it would probably last forever reading a book or typing stuff.

Another interesting thing is that the power bank is 37Wh while the standard Cube battery is (supposedly) 33Wh. I didn’t have a way to measure USB-C current but I tested the powerbank at 5V and 2A and it put out around 6500mAh, or 33Wh according to the USB tester. So that’s actually a higher efficiency than Blitzwolf is claiming (85%). And considering the Cube battery is around 2 years old, that result wasn’t too bad either, I thought i’d be shot by now.

[dmpasilva]

Note: This is just for research purposes. No results are guaranteed!

Hi everyone

So we all know this tablet has terrible WiFi connectivity.

There are people on the Internet that said that on Windows you could disable 802.11 n band to partially fix this issue. However, for Android no solution was provided until now.

After some research, I tried disabling the n band and thus try to achieve a “stable” WiFi connection (it is still terrible). I know this is a pretty old device and probably most of you aren’t using it (even I had it stored in a drawer), but here are the instructions for someone who may need to investigate any further.

Requirements:

• A computer
• Android Platform Tools (specifically adb)
• Root permissions (there is a tutorial here on how gain root access) *

Procedure (steps 10-15 are optional):

1. Connect your device via USB to your computer
2. Check if your device is recognized in adb

   adb devices

3. Connect to the device using adb shell

   adb shell

4. Mount system partition as read/write

   mount -o rw,remount /system

5. Edit /system/etc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf (I will be using vi, but you can use any other file editor):

   vi /system/etc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf

6. Navigate with your arrow keys until the end of the file
7. If you’re using vi, turn on edit mode by clicking the letter i on your keyboard
8. Add the following lines to the end of the file:

   disable_ht=1
   disable_ht40=1
   disable_vht=1

9. Save your changes (on vi: type ESC and then type :wq)
10. Optionally, edit /system/etc/wifi/hostapd.conf

    vi /system/etc/wifi/hostapd.conf

11. Find the string starting with ieee80211n (if you’re using vi as I am, write /ieee80211n with keyboard and then press ENTER):
12. There should be two instances, one starting with # and another without. We want to edit the second one.
13. Again, if you’re using vi, turn on edit mode by clicking the letter i on your keyboard
14. Edit the line by changing =1 to =0:

    ieee80211n=0

15. Save your changes (on vi: type ESC and then type :wq)
16. Remount the system partition as read again:

    mount -o rw,remount /system

17. Reboot your device

That’s it. This is the most we can do with Linux to disable 802.11n with this device.

Have I noticed any improvements? No, but I may be doing something wrong.

Here is the init script for wifi (/init.wifi.rc):

service p2p_supplicant /system/bin/wpa_supplicant \
-ip2p0 -Dnl80211 -c/data/misc/wifi/p2p_supplicant.conf -N \
-pforce_single_radio=1 \
-iwlan0 -Dnl80211 -c/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf \
-I/system/etc/wifi/wpa_supplicant_overlay.conf \
-O/data/misc/wifi/sockets -puse_p2p_group_interface=1,force_single_radio=1 \
-e/data/misc/wifi/entropy.bin -g@android:wpa_wlan0
class main
socket wpa_wlan0 dgram 660 wifi wifi
disabled
oneshot

on boot
insmod ${ro.modules.location}/cfg80211.ko
insmod ${ro.modules.location}/8723bs.ko

 

I have no idea where else to look for information. Feel free to contribute with whatever you may find relevant.

* Technically root may not be required as the adb shell runs as root by default (or at least mine did after a reinstall). However, because we’re changing the /system partition, Android may detect unauthorized changes and prevent the device from booting (maybe adb disable-verity is enough?).

[Brad]

Have a look here and post about the problem there. This guy Jeremy is a Linux WiFi expert, same guy posts on the Ubuntu and LinuxMint forums helping people fix their networking issues.  The first thing I would do is try booting with Live-USB burned with the latest distro of Lubuntu and/or LinuxMint Mate.  Also search the manjaro forum if you really must use that distro.

more about me here

[David]

Actually any distro with the v5.3 kernel can be made working including Lubuntu v19.10 and also Manjaro. It’s also not that difficult after you know how:

1. Prepare your favorite distro on a USB stick and boot from it.
2. Once the live environment has finished loading activate the touchpad by opening a terminal (press ctrl+alt+T) and type
   

   sudo modprobe -r hid_multitouch

3. Now you can install your distro with the GUI and reboot to it.
4. Again activate the touchpad like in step 2.
5. To make this permanent you have to blacklist hid_multitouch either in the GUI by adding the following line to /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist.conf (create it if it doesn’t exist)
   

   blacklist hid_multitouch

   or in terminal:

   sudo -s
   echo ‘blacklist hid_multitouch‘ >> /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist.conf
   exit

6. To make wifi work just rename brcmfmac43430a0-sdio.jumper-ezpad-mini3.txt to brcmfmac43430a0-sdio.txt in /lib/firmware/brcm/ and reboot OR restart the driver with
   

   sudo modprobe -r brcmfmac
   sudo modprobe brcmfmac

 

Many thanks to Martin and his post from the previous page. I would not have figured it out without it.

[Man]

Has anyone tried copying files via SMB with their EZPad Pro 6? I am experiencing issues with file copy slowing down until it is stuck at 0 bytes/s for quite a while (can be several minutes). File transfer then resumes briefly before it gets stuck at 0 bytes/s again. This cycle is repeated until hours later, the file transfer is complete.

The issue does not appear to be the internal Realtek 8723 wifi adapter, as I have tried several external USB wifi adapters. I have changed USB settings, turned off auto tuning, disable Remote Differential Compression, enabled write-caching of the eMMC drive but all to no avail. I have this issue on another device (Trekstor Surftab) which I was not able to resolve. I am totally baffled.

Anyone have any such issues?

Thanks in anticipation!

[gilaxone]

I’ve just testing with the live mode from an usb key plugged with an usb-c adapter.
Wifi ok
Bluetooth to headphones, ok
Touchscreen, ok
Rotation sensor detected, ok
Brightness control, ok
External usb keyboard, ok
Bluetooth keyboard, ok
HDMI external display, ok

Battery discharge seems a little bit heavy

It’s worth a try!

[barry]

Hi everyone, Sorry for not responding. I have successfully been able to create a hotspot on my Xiaomi Redmi Note 5 phone. I followed the following two url’s in the order they appear below:-
1. This url shows how to download and install a program called ‘adb’. adb is a small file sized program that runs in Windows and other operating systems. It’s free. It’s best to follow this url that contains the detail on installing the program. To run adb in Windows it’s important to follow the directions on being in the correct folder. adb does NOT root you phone.

How to Install ADB on Windows, macOS, and Linux

2. Then follow this url that explains the how you use the program adb on your Windows 10 computer to change setting on your Xiaomi Note 5 phone. The computer is connected to the phone’s micro usb port using a cable that is capable of transferring data [ie not a cable that is only capable of charging the phone].
https://forum.xda-developers.com/mi-a1/help/internet-hotspot-8-1-update-t3833265
The steps shown in this url are listed here:-

1 – Put your phone in debugging mode
Under Setting -> system -> about phone, tap repeatedly on Build Number, until the prompt asks if you want to enable developer mode

2 – Enable USB debugging on your phone
Under Setting -> system -> Developer options turn on USB Debugging

3 – plug your phone into USB, there may be a popup to allow remote debugging, allow this.

4 – Open a command window, and browse to the folder where you have adb.

5 – Type the following and press the [Enter] key

adb shell
This starts the Android shell (terminal where commands can be typed), which can work on your phone.

Once in the shell, type this:

settings put global tether_dun_required 0

Press return. To confirm it worked, type this and press return:

settings get global tether_dun_required

3. After making the changes as set out above, reboot the phone.
4. Then on the phone have the WiFi turned OFF — have the data from you phone Telstra/Telco turned ON — then turn your phone hotspot ON — then go to another device [phone/laptop/desktop/tablet] that has WiFi capability – on this other device go to the WiFi and look at the list of WiFi ‘available networks’ and find the phone’s network and ‘connect’ — then go to Google or some internet service and open it — the internet should be coming up ok — That’s it – now your Note 5 is the perfect phone.