Forum Replies Created
August 9, 2018 at 12:56 pm #145307
is there going to be a “global version” released soon? I was warned not to get the “global rom” version, since the sellers flash a custom version that can cause issues in the future.August 29, 2016 at 11:02 pm #48424
I got a Vtin USBC to HDMI adapter, but it wouldn’t work. I think the USBC port is too shallow. I can get a USB key to load, but it drops out constantly.
Also got a Samsung 64GB microSD and it wouldn’t recognize it either.August 27, 2016 at 6:10 pm #48191
Nice job @piotr. Cut outs look very clean. If I redo mine, I think I’ll try to make it as nice as yours. I have some screen pushing issues, but they haven’t bothered me enough to do something about it yet. I may consider using a 0.5mm copper plate, and a 0.5mm shim along with a 0.5mm thermal pad with all the right cutouts. The original heatsink is effectively 1mm thick, so that would only add 0.5mm extra.August 24, 2016 at 8:59 pm #47835
I’m not sure why I couldn’t get it to work. Maybe if I started with that screw It would have worked. The part I would recommend removing is shown in the attachments above (heatsink_2d.pdf). I’m not sure if that’s the only part you have to remove, but I think that should do it.
You can also try to use a 1.2x10x10mm small plate instead of a 1.0mm think one to get more clearance. Then just drill down into the counterbore hole a tiny bit more, or get longer screws to fit.August 24, 2016 at 7:05 pm #47824
You seem to be mostly on track. You just have to make sure to cut away the Kapton tape on the smaller 10x10mm heat sink. Kapton tape is not a good thermal conductor, so your heatsink won’t work with Kapton tape on the part touching the CPU. Look at my pictures above.
Look at the attached drawings. You have to use Adobe Reader to open the 3D one.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.August 24, 2016 at 2:38 pm #47808
To connect the to copper heat sinks together I used thermal silicon plaster / glue. This is different from thermal paste, which I used between the heat sink and the actual CPU.
I would not use a silicon pad to protect the motherboard from short circuits, because they are too thick. Look into getting Kapton tape or a clone of it.
My thermal pad was 1mm, and it seemed to work okay. I’m not sure if a 2mm pad will fit, as I did not try it. You want to get “plaster” or “glue” to connect the two heat sinks. And “paste” to connect the heat sink to the CPU.
To cut it to shape you can try to find a band saw. Miter saw or table saw could work as well. To get the holes cut, try using a a drill press (or hand drill, but it might turn out worse) and two sized drill bits to cut the counterbored holes. Drill the smaller size first, all the way through, and the use the larger one to go about half way down. This part can be tricky with a hand drill. Best to do the holes before cutting the copper to shape, since if you make a mistake, you can use the other side of the plate to try drilling again. If you look at my easle link you can see what sizes they need to be and where. 1.5mm and 2.8mm diameters.
The rest of your parts seem okay.August 22, 2016 at 1:28 am #47598
I use mine as a note taking tablet with a stylus, and it’s working okay so far. I had to do the copper heat sink mod to keep the temperatures low though. Syncing dropbox would get it up to 99 degrees, before I turned dropbox off.August 21, 2016 at 10:32 pm #47584
My Attempt at following Chris’ mod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0peXuoUsxAc
Temperatures went down from 99 to 74 degrees when pushed to 100% CPU.
I used an X-Carve to cut the holes out and get to shape. http://easel.inventables.com/projects/2R4h5PlSHmCBQE9aRDvVIw
The screw marked in red (bottom left) wouldn’t engage because a component was in the way. I would cut out a section of copper to fix it if I were to do it again, but the three screws seem to work well enough. It’s also pressed against the back of the case.
The copper plates were 1mm thick, and so was the thermal pad. I used Kapton tape to insulate the heat sink on the side touching the motherboard, and silicon thermal plaster to attach the smaller heat sink to the larger one.
The back of the tablet gets fairly hot, making it uncomfortable to hold, but I have the faux leather case which helps keep the temperatures less noticeable.
After the mod I can physically feel that the screen is uneven, raised in the area of the heat sink. So far it hasn’t been much of an issue, besides being annoying. It might be a good idea to try and use thinner pieces of copper and thermal pad, or cutting out all the stock holes to have it sit further down.August 10, 2016 at 1:55 pm #46340
I got mine from Shenzhen Ele Technology Limited. Good price, and fast shipping. If you want to avoid brokerage fees at the border ship with slow option. (not DHL)August 10, 2016 at 12:56 am #46293
Without going to the effort of posting a video I can answer your questions to a degree.
August 6, 2016 at 5:55 pm #45914
- It works as expected
- Stylus button works as right click and can be used to lasso text in OneNote
- Flicks work as expected. I turn them off because they’re annoying when drawing quickly
- Unfortunately you need to hold the power button for ~5 seconds to turn it on from hibernation or a shutdown state.
- You only need to click it momentarily, although it takes about 3 seconds to wake the screen up
Doesn’t seem to work on Windows 10 / the Cube. I guess rotating it is fine for now.August 6, 2016 at 2:33 pm #45891
My included screen protector has some air bubbles underneath it, so if that bothers you a lot you might want to get one to replace it.August 6, 2016 at 1:58 pm #45889
I just tested mine, and I don’t have the issues you describe. It seems you have a hardware issue.August 4, 2016 at 12:59 am #45536
@Chris, did you find the perceived to-the-touch temperature got any better with your mod, or was it only internal temperatures that dropped? Also, which software did you use to read the temperature? openhardwaremonitor doesn’t seem to work… just shows SSD temperatures.August 4, 2016 at 12:44 am #45535
I just tried charging using a Nexus 6P USB C charger, and it doesn’t work. Windows says “Not charging” next to the battery percentage. Works with the included barrel charger. The Charger is has an output of 5V at 3A.