[Jay]

As mine is whole and working with pen input – only touch is broken – and I’m a ham-fisted klutz, I’d prefer to not pull it apart before knowing what I’ll need to put it back together again… ?

How did you get the screen loose? Wedging it little by little + hair dryer to soften the glue (like someone mentioned before on the forum)?

And what glue should I use to stick it back?

Also, what’s the serial nr / version of the screen?

Thanks!

[Jay]

Kassandra Kaplan wrote:

… I soldered the sheared pin. This fixed the problem for a short time. The way the jack stands so proud of the jack allows a good amount of leverage on the back to pins. A soldering job alone didn’t solve the problem, the solder joint broke testing the connection. I ended up adding a bit of epoxy to reinforce the connection between the PCB and the jack. I also added a small bit between the jack and the case. …

Thanks, that worked! Soldering-only got me the same results, which had me very unhappy considering the TINY connectors that had me struggling to get the solder to stick, but with some patience and fiddling I managed to get it done (I suggest a flat-head tip for the soldering pen). ?

I did however skip the epoxy between the case and plug in case I ever need to reopen it again (which considering this was already the 4th time, is probable)…
And now to see if I can get the touchscreen fixed (only works with pen atm). ?

[Jay]

OK, so for some reason I can’t include links in my posts (it automatically removes the entire post).

So, basically, I bought the iVoler 75W but it’s not chanrging my i7 Book through the USB-C port.

I think it might be due to the cable I got – a 2m/6ft Aukey one – so was wondering if anyone could point me to a cable that is confirmed to work (preferably available in Europe / Spain / Amazon.es).

The 3 I’ve found are from Club3D, ICASEIT & MutecPower (all 3 specifically state that they support PD), but only the ICASEIT is 2m or more (which is what I’m looking for). Can anyone confirm any of these (or another one)?

Thanks!

 

[Jay]

I know there’s a SD support setting somewhere in the BIOS (been a whle so not sure exactly where) – maybe changing that might help?

[Jay]

I think it’s “expected device behaviour”, not a bug, that the screen doesn’t rotate with the keyboard docked. There’s, apparently, no distinction in HOW it’s docked (which is kind of weird considering everything still works, which means there must be some bit of SW somewhere that recognises the POGO pins are reversed) so basically it’s a laptop, and laptop screens don’t (afaik) rotate with orientation.

[Jay]

You can try this, see if it works:

– Navigate to the AutoRotation key under the location:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AutoRotation
– If SlateEnable is available, delete it

And restart your computer.

If that doesn’t work, create the entry again in your registry and instead you can use something like iRotate (google & duckduckgo are your friends here) which will allow you to change orientation using hotkeys (used to be an option in the Intel HD display drivers… I’ll never understand why they nerf things that work).

[Jay]

Well, not sure about other options, but you could try remapping the multimedia keys to FN keys (and vice-versa if you don’t want to lose the multimedia key functionality) using something like Autohotkey (aka AHK).

Been a while since I last did it, but there should be plenty of tutorials/etc. about how to do it. As the mutimedia keys aren’t “standard” keys, you might have to do some kind of key-capture (you should be able to do this with AHK too) to identify – and remap – them.

Note: this might not work and/or need some tweaking to work in games and the like.

Alternatively (and less work), you could try tools such as Sharpkey or Keytweak (easy to find with your friends google or duckduckgo) 😀

[Jay]

OK, so after some sniffing around I noticed that the connector cable for the touch screen is precisely in the upper left corner (where I focussed my erroneous efforts to separate the screen) – so I suspect I either loosened the connector and/or damaged it.

Assuming it was damaged, can anyone confirm whether or not the touchscreen for the i7 Stylus is the same as the i7 Book? Because I haven’t been able to find any i7 Book replacement screens and Banggood has a i7 Stylus replacement screen for 34€…

[Jay]

Yeah, the Tronsmart I mentioned was listed somewhere (reddit) as having PD, but confirmed it isn’t a few minutes after posting… :S

Either way, that one and the RAV are both waaaay too big for what I was thinking so exact same result: There is currently no compatible power bank small enough.

Hmmm… maybe it’d be worth trying to see if the PCB/controller for the RAV would work if attached to a (much smaller) battery… I’d be a bit afraid to charge it though (not sure if the capacity is detected “live” or pre-defined).

[Jay]

Wylver wrote:

Here’s an idea for you guys out there: Just tape the only available power bank, 2×2,5″ SSD’s and a raidcontroller beneath the keyboard and you have the ultimate device. Also throw in a usb-c hub with power delivery for good measure.

No thanks. 😉

I guess the powerbank you mention is the Tronsmart w/ 10.4K mAh (nevermind – just confirmed it’s not compatible with the i7 Book) the RAVPower 28K? I can see how that wouldn’t work. Pity… I was actually thinking more along the lines of a small one – even 3-4K mAh would mean an extra hour+ worth of battery life – which (after gutting it, with some creative (de-)soldering etc.) might be squeezable in there.

I haven’t opened up the keyboard yet (I’m waiting a month to check if everything is working fine before voiding any warranties/returns) so I don’t know what kind of space we’re talking about, but I had figured that on the sides of the touchpad or along the top by the USBs (looks like that part is filled from what I can see in nipaph’s pics) there might be some usable space.

What are those metal plates at the sides of the touchpad anyhow? They don’t look like anything necessary for the keyboard/touchpad to work… more dead weight?

But oh well… was worth considering. Maybe we get lucky with all the new USB-C phones/etc. coming out and someone makes a (compatible) small PB? 😀

[Jay]

I’ve been thinking of removing the metal from the keyboard and shoving a battery in there (e.g. open up a power bank and put that in there), and cannibalizing one of the USB ports to connect it to the tablet (I’m assuming there’s no option of doing it through the POGO pins). That is, of course, assuming it CAN be charged through the USB port(s) – the Type-C one probably?

At least this way the extra weight would be useful…

Any ideas on compatible power banks (and with batteries thin enough to fit)?

 

[Jay]

Currently (and the case since early October at least) both Gearbest & Banggood are out of stock of the Cube I7 Book (and no trustworthy confirmation of the restock date, as the one on both sites keeps shifting every couple of days). Same is the case for the Chuwi Hi12 (haven’t checked other tablets atm), so not exactly sure what’s going on there but there clearly seems to be some issue with their suppliers (at least for these two).

I tried getting some kind of _anything_ from them on the issue, but all they say is that the restock date is “date-shown-on-product-page” (which is total BS).

Also, fyi, the current price for them is +/- 275€ on both sites – so if you’re willing to risk waiting until Christmas before it’s shipped, it’s a good time to order one 😉

[Jay]

Did you try this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfNw5cKY6qI

I’m waiting for my I7 Book to arrive so haven’t been able to try it out (and my desktop is an ASUS mobo with a tool to do so in the BIOS directly) :/

[Author]

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