[George G]

Let the battery run down, then recharge it. When restarting, boot into the BIOS first, then exit. When this is successful, make sure all of your drivers are the latest version and that Win10 is up to date. This is what I did and I haven’t had a problem since.

[George G]

Just a couple comments, the higher radio frequencies don’t travel as far because they are more easily reflected, so a 2.4 GHz WiFi frequency will have better range through obstacles than 5 GHz does, but 5 is less susceptible to radio interference and can have more throughput/speed when close to the router. Incidentally, my Jumper EZBook 3 Pro v4 works perfectly on both bands with the very latest Intel WiFi drivers from the Intel Driver and Support Assistant and the very latest build of Win10 from Windows Update. However, I will say that I am very choosy about picking the best transmission channels and bandwidth settings on my reliable and highly functional dual band router. I’m not sure how any of this is related to the original subject of SSD installation.

 

[George G]

The tiny charging light (LED) on the right side of the laptop is orange, not blue.

Have you tried holding the power button down for five seconds? That should result in a hard reset and power off.

Wait another five seconds and press the power button again to reboot.  I hope this helps.

[George G]

Hi nils

You can also go here and follow the directions:

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/26924/Intel-PROSet-Wireless-Software-and-Drivers-for-Windows-10

Note that the download is valid for the products listed at the bottom of the page. The AC 3165 is listed there.

[George G]

One more suggestion: Download and install WiFi Analyzer. You can use it to check wifi signal strengths before and after SSD installation, and what effect the home-made shield might have.

[George G]

Ok, let’s try the RF (radio frequency) interference theory. Take some tin foil and coat it completely on both sides with electrical tape. You will have to experiment with the size and position of your home-made shield. This insulated metal shield will be used to block any possible interfering radio waves generated by the SSD that are reaching the antenna or the wifi card.

Second suggestion: try changing the channel (broadcast frequency) on your router. The best N band channels are 1, 6, and 11. Changing the broadcast channel could possibly decrease the interference. The greater the change, the better. For example, if you are using channel 1 switch to channel 11.

You may have received a defective SSD that is creating lots of RF interference. If you decide to try any of these suggestions, please keep us posted.

[George G]

A few questions, when you installed the NT-128, did you clone the eMMC over and then boot from the SSD, then discover the wifi died?

Or did you just plug in the SSD and immediately discovered that the wifi died before you did any disk cloning or reinstallation of Windows?

Which did you do, cloning or Windows reinstallation on the SSD?

Does Bluetooth work with the SSD installed? Does it make any difference when you turn it on or off?

Is this too many questions ? 🙂

 

[George G]

There’s a BIOS setting that affects sound, and I used it when I had problems with my audio driver. It was not a SSD or wifi related problem however.

As far as I know and remember, there is no setting in the BIOS that needs to be changed to fix wifi or any post in this forum where someone had a similar wifi problem when they installed their new SSD.

Three obvious suggestions:

1)  Reboot your router after the SSD installation and laptop reboot. Verify that you are connected.

2) Verify that the new SSD is functional and shows in Windows disk manager.

3) Make sure the antenna plugs are fully snapped on to the wifi card.  You might even try rotating the plugs or putting a small piece of electrical tape over the plugs to make sure they are not loose or shorting out.

Please let us know if and when you solve the problem.

 

 

 

[George G]

Thanks. A horribly slow eMMC. I assume that you pulled the Foresee 64 GB SSD out and then substituted the faster 256 GB KingSpec and you are booting from that?

Just wondering, why did you buy the 128GB version of the EZBook 3 Pro if you were going to replace the SSD anyhow?

[George G]

@VietChi

I will make the assumption that it boots Windows from the (slower) eMMC.  If so, to increase performance, you could potentially set it up so that it boots from the SSD instead. I believe that is what most of us are doing.

Would you be willing to post both of your actual disk benchmark results, preferably in CrystalDiskMark format?

[George G]

Just a suggestion, go here and make sure it’s not a software problem first:

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/14106/windows-10-troubleshoot-black-screen-problems

[George G]

1. Quick fix – turn off quiet boot in the BIOS and you will then see the American Megatrends BIOS boot screen instead. No Chinese characters.
2. Quick fix – two options: right click on the screen and select Display settings, then advanced, then color calibration. There’s a built in calibration tool. Alternatively, Intel includes a color calibration tool along with their graphics driver. Using option 1, I was able to almost completely eliminate the bluish tint by just dialing back the blue one notch. I hope this helps.

[George G]

@Kalle

It boots faster, but I didn’t notice a huge difference in speed either after installing my SSD. It probably depends on the size of the file.

It was still necessary though just to get the extra storage space. 64 GB is not enough.

[George G]

Could it be that Jumper cheaped out on the latter versions by using a single color LED for a charging indicator instead of a multi-color LED?

Another example: they substituted a cheap eMMC (BWIN 4.5 spec) when they went to the precision touchpad and SSD hatch in v4.

[George G]

Scroll to the top of the page and look in the Downloads section on the far right hand side of the page.

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