[Wylver]

This is the EFI Shell.

Happened to me a couple of times as well.

You have to enter bios and re-set the boot order, then everything should be alright.

[Wylver]

The new one you chose should be working in theory.

[Wylver]

Before you are going to spent money on it, the charger won’t work.

Wrong standard.

[Wylver]

The second one from Blitzwolf (Banggood link) should work because it has the exact specifications I stated before: 15V 2A “PD”

 

The other one from Ali will NOT work because NO PD and only Quick Charge.

[Wylver]

I did the same thing Chris mentioned in one of his videos.

Disabled the “Turbo Boost Short Power Max”

and increased the “Turbo Boost Power Max” to 15W.

This way you can make sure that the processor and IGPU stays at max clock provided good enough cooling.

Although i can still run into thermal throttling by doing synthetic benchmarks.

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[Wylver]

no

[Wylver]

For charging over USB C you need a charger capable of PD (Power Delivery) specified at 14,5 or 15V at 2A or higher.

Quick Charge is a Qualcom standard (mainly cellphone processors) and thus not compatible.

[Wylver]

You have booted into the built in EFI Shell, not a big deal.

Go into the Bios and switch the boot priority to Windows Boot Manager and you should boot to Windows again.

 

(type in “reset” and hit enter to reboot from the shell extension)

[Wylver]

Sounds like it fucks up your boot manager.

Did you set the right boot priority?

Try the standard Windows Media Creation Tool instead of an iso.

 

[Wylver]

I’ve done my thermal mod and want to share my process, the materials used and my experiences with it overall.

First let me post a list and links to the materials and tools I used:

15 x 15 x 0,5 mm copper shim
20 x 20 x 1 mm copper shim
plastic prying tool for phones/tablets (blue)
100 x 100 x 0,15 mm adhvesive thermal tape
100 x 100 x 0,15 mm thermal pad
Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound
Rubbing alcohol: 99% isopropylic alcohol for cleaning all contact surfaces

 

I want to start by saying that it was a breeze to open the tablet using the prying tool. The lip to insert between the two pieces is very thin and because of the broad tool it is easy to apply the right amount of pressure, plus it is made of plastic to protect the contact materials.

I’ve used two different sized copper shims which I attached to the existing aluminum heatspreader using the thermal tape, for further refernece look at the provided pictures. The big one I taped to the indentation on the cpu side of the heatspreader where the original thermal pad has been. The smaller one was taped to the cover side of the heatspreader where the little recessed area is. 15×15 mm is a little to big for the recess so I had to file down one side of the copper shim by 1-2 mm.

I went for the Noctua thermal compound because I have had good experiences with it in the past and because of the very simple application. My application method of choice for this thermal mod was a rice sized drop on the processor without smearing it all over the place.

Afterwards the thermal pad was cut down to the size of the heatspreader and applied on top of the heatspreader (cover side) after that one was screwed back in place.

Using the mentioned materials the tablet went back together flush and I cant see any pressure spot on the casing or the display, that means you can safely use a 1 mm thick shim on top of the processor if your method of fixation isn’t too thick.

 

And now to the results: (pictures for reference)

I shaved of around 16°C from the Tj-max temperature of 100°C and went to 84°C.

The testing method was the intel XTU GPU stresstest for 10 minutes and 10-15 min of small FFT torture test in Prime95. No more thermal throttling and during the GPU stress test the gpu frequency was at a constant ~800MHz.

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[Wylver]

Here is my benchmark on the Transcend 256 GB ssd with comparison to the original Foresee.

And for good measure I have also thrown in a benchmark score of the Netac P500 64 GB micro sdxc card.

 

Do we happen to have any reliable benchmarks for those ZTC and Mydigitalssd superboot drives?

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[Wylver]

-disregard double post-

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[Wylver]

Why not use the Media Creation Tool from Microsoft?

I don’t see the point in an image file if I can get a brand spanking new install?!

 

[Wylver]

I just did a clean reinstall on monday and mine activated imidiately after the install finished and I conected to the Internet.

Also no problems whatsoever with any drivers (especially not camera), using the supplied drivers from this site’s download page from Chris.

[Wylver]

Thanks for your work, highly appreciated.

I still kind of prefer the default setting.

The default one seems to be colder while your profile is warmer. Colours seem to pop a little better on your profile, but with some drawn wallpapers I tested I didn’t like the skin tone. I’m well aware that these were virtually created and the artist may have used wrong colours to begin with.

Afterwards I compared some photographs and came to the conclusion that for me personaly the default setting seems to have more contrast and therefore appears a little sharper.

I acknowledge that I have no clue about colour calibration and how to determine colour palette coverage but in side by side comparision I liked the default setting better.

[Author]

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