Search Results for 'cloning'

[dungho]

Sell Emv software cloned cards atm paypal cashapp @Vaild.Work@ Chip Cloning  Cvv Dumps Track 1&2 with Pin, atm skimmer, paypal transfer

[Nerekan]

6 months ago I upgraded ssd to SSD WD Blue SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 WDS500G2B0B (500Gb), no problem, I recommend

I used Acrinis True Image for full drive cloning  (win10pro)

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[Andrej]

I just wrote a little review of this procedure but my post disappeared, don’t really understand why… Not going to write it again, all I’m going to say is that I can confirm that Giovanni’s tutorial worked for me and that I managed to clone emmc to ssd successfully with the Jumper Ezbook 3 pro v6 (July, 2018 from Gearbest) once the bios was unlocked. I even formated the emmc drive to use it as slow storage with no issues at all. I used Mini Tool Partition to do the whole cloning and had absolutely no problems with it.

[Andrej]

Hello guys, for what’s worth I thought maybe I should post my very recent experience with Giovanni’s tutorial and how everything worked out for me with my Jumper Ezbook 3 pro v6 (bought on July, 2018 from Gearbest).

First of all, what I intended to do really was clone the emmc drive to the 240gb m.2 ssd I bought from eBay (brand name called “Oscoo”, been using it for about a year now, got it recognized straight away without any issues whatsoever). I was really afraid to do this cloning on the Jumper specifically because, after extended search and reading thoroughly in this forum and other places, I found out that lots of people were having cloning problems with the locked bios that caused Windows 10 to not work properly anymore. So in order to do a proper clone, the first step is to flash the unlocked bios Giovanni posted to us.

I found out what version of the bios I was using in the bios menu itself, using the date as reference. Mine was the Date 02/01/2018 16:10:57 Ver 3BANS010 Jumper10x.P8.WP3132.NHNAUHL02 one.

Second of all, indeed Giovannis tutorial is, at this point, a bit messy for someone with poor technical background in TI, like myself. Some of the instructions were really confusing, specially because as of now you don’t really have to do anything other that flash the provided unlocked bios our good friend provided.

That being said, once you find out what version of the bios you’re using, all you really have to do is download the correct one, along with the flashing tools (password = techtablets) and skip to step 2.5, called “Flash”.

The only tool you’ll really need is inside the AFU folder, and that is the AFUEFI one (AfuEfix64.efi archive inside the AFUEFI folder specifically). Just ignore all the other programs and tools. Also, be sure to have a usb drive with the original bios and the custom bios plugged in at all times during the process. Giovanni states that in the tutorial, but this is crucial, absolutely pay attention to this critical detail.

From that part on, instructions are understandable, although a little messy and oversimplified, but worked fine for me.

Bottom line is, once I flashed the unlocked bios (be absolutely sure to pick the correct one or you might lose your laptop forever), I can confirm that cloning went as smoothly as possible (I used MiniTool Partition Wizard, the very BEST free program for this in my humble opinion), I managed to start Windows 10 from the SSD after tweaking the boot order in the bios and even removed the emmc from the boot priority list altogether. Not a single problem occurred. (On a side note, it’s worth noting that the AOMEI Backupper program did not recognize my ssd for cloning, but the Mini Tools Partition did, keep that in mind).

When I was sure that Windows 10 was fully functional, up and running from the m.2 ssd (no Control Panel meddling was needed, just set the boot order properly with the ssd as number 1 and remove the emmc from the priority list), I then used again the MiniTool Partition Wizard to wipe the emmc and set it up as slow storage. After restart, everything was fine, wi-fi card was working properly, trackpad and Windows 10 in general were doing great, even with the newly created emmc storage drive being used solely for backups!

Power limits are unlocked and TDP is set to 9w by default with the unlocked bios, processor runs at 2099mhz on all four cores mainly. The Jumper logo is removed from the initialization screen and I have absolutely no problems with it, definitely recommend it for anyone who want to do a proper cloning to ssd with the Jumper Ezbook 3 pro!

I hope this little “review” of the process can help those who are afraid to do this procedure on their own and would like to thank and congratulate Giovanni for taking the time and effort to make this available to all of us, since support from Jumper is virtually non-existent.

Cheers from Brazil!

[Brad]

After cloning my emmc to a m.2 ssd.  WiFi, Bluetooth and camera not working. I downloaded the driver packs from Jumper, and this site, but when i try to update through device manager, it sees it, but tells me that the external backing provider is not recognized.  i wiped part of the emmc drive, following instruction here, when i rebooted the devices had the yellow triangle next to them. please help or point me in the right direction. please and thank you

[Patrick]

I’ve been considering it, but not done so far. The device manager says its SATA so not NVMe. Albeit being SATA in the M.2 form factor. It appears the maximum upgrade currently is 2TB in this form factor, which would be a nice size for the i35. But it does cost almost 40-50% of the full cost of the machine itself. 🙂

Of course if you do decide to upgrade it. Make sure you clone the new drive in full including the hidden partitions containing the OS provided by the i35. I’ve managed to extract those hidden partitions to put separately onto a thumb drive in case of a catastrophic drive failure. In theory this should allow me to recover the i35 setup and OS to a new drive. But I would probably recommend cloning wherever possible as it’s a faster and more efficient way to upgrade the SSD drive.

[Anonymous]

I recently bought a SSD Western Digital WD Green M.2 – 240GB for my Jumper Ezbook 3 Pro. My laptop didn’t recognize it (only via disk management) and after a failed cloning of windows to it I was unable to even see it via my disk management and device manager also. I send it back and they replace it with the same product. I still can’t format it, I can’t have it like a normal drive, when it was allocated I create a partition for it (the entire disk), but now its just RAW.

Can I do something about it? I ll provide further information if you ask.

[Actionable Mango]

John edward wrote:

I refuse to pay for “Free, easy and fast tools” just to discover they don’t work too.

There’s no reason to pay for the pro versions. The required features are in the freeware versions.

They worked fine for me. If they didn’t work for you, there are several other free methods for cloning and changing partition size. For example someone mentioned using Macrium Free.

[Callum]

Take it back – just tried cloning the disk using Macrium now back to square one! But with the new driver…

If anyone has any suggestions it would be much appreciated.

[maurizio]

Hello everyone!
I first tested Crucial mx500 250gb unfortunately is not recognized by the bios, it works as storage and can be used as main disk cloning windows from emmc and at that point choose it as a priority disk from bios.Io I also made an attempt with Samsung 860 but that behaves the same way. Writing and reading files of both perfect. I was wondering if you unlock the bios (02/01/2018) the situation can improve and proceed to an installation on ssd clean from bios?Thanks

[Luca]

Nino, I did a clean install of windows 10 (1809) from USB stick (via windows download tool) after two weeks of trying to solve ‘cloning issues’. Everything went smoothly, all drivers installed themselves during the installation <b>process</b> and actually it was advised to me by Acer support team which I finally decided to call (I’ve just bought Swift 1 laptop).  Finally I have one system, one EFI and a corresponding recovery partition created by Windows (on SSD). And eMMC is only used for storage by me. If I want to restore it to the initial state (which I doubt) I have a system image from two weeks back (eMMC).

 

TIP: During the installation process just delete all partitions shown to you (they will be made as unallocated) and then choose your SSD drive from the remaining eMMC and SSD unallocated disks’ spaces as a destination of OS you are installing. Windows will make EFI partition and then recovery partition on its own (in the order EFI 100MB, OS xMB, Recovery 500MB). After booting to Windows you won’t see your eMMC drive in Windows Explorer as it will be unallocated so you may want to initialize it in Windows’ Disk Manager.

 

At least it all worked for me!

[Luca]

Hello! I have similar problem though less dramatic. I have two windows 10 (one eMMC and one cloned on SSD). Boots to SSD every time alright. Everything OK, BUT: after restarting it gets stuck (black screen lights under keyboard). I can successfully shut down and then start but not restart.

(Before, I tried wiping emmc and it loaded successfully to ssd but some devices as WIFI or touchpad stopped working and reinstalling them did not work. So I restored emmc from back-up image. Also before wiping SSD system warned me that it is using some information from emmc. It it was right.)

 

So my questions are:

1. Why the problem with restarting only? Shutting down and then starting windows works fine (always boots to SSD).
2. What information (SSD) successfully cloned system is using from eMMC? Can I fix it anyhow?
3. Pascal, did Chupa’s advise work? Have you tried cloning via adapter and did it change anything?

Will be grateful for some advise as this switching from eMMC to SSD really frustrates me;)

[Luca]

I cloned Windows 10 from 64GB to 120 SSD (4 partintion with Recovery as the last) using both EaseUS and M.Reflect then used Minitool Partition Wizard for extending system partition.

HOWEVER it is not possible for me to use eMMC purely as a storage because apparently “system” still uses some information from eMMC <span style=”text-decoration: underline;”>even though</span> it boots to SSD alright. That’s why I had to clone twice;) (after wiping eMMC I restored it from back-up image).

After wiping eMMC after the first cloning, I indeed booted to SSD, no problem, but my devices such as WIFI, touchpad and some others didn’t work. Installing drivers did not help as there were drivers already installed. Reinstalling them etc. didn’t help. Something else was wrong and system failed to access them (yellow triangle with exclamation mark under device manager). ALSO: before wiping eMMC I was warned by system (booted to SSD!) that system  is using eMMC and there will be some problems.

Also: having two windows 10 (emmc and ssd) I confirm that there is no such option under System/Advanced setting/ as “Other OS” there is only one “Windows 10”.

And everything would be perfect even with having two windows 10 installed, if not for the problem of restarting the computer, it won’t go. Shutting it down and then starting it works fine. Boots alright to SSD as a main system drive (I changed booting order in BIOS only once after cloning). Also apps and updates and everything uses my SSD as it should. But it is far from being perfect because of restarting failure and probably more issues will come up soon…

 

SO, THE QUESTIONS ARE:

1. Why the problem or impossibility to restart computer? Shutting it down and then starting goes OK.
2. MORE IMPORTANT ONE: What information computer is using from eMMC that you cannot just wipe it after successful cloning???

I would appreciate anyone with expertise to explain this to me and not only to me as there are lots of folks like me who followed the promising route of cloning eMMC to SSD only to be disappointed or not perfectly happy;).

[Chupa]

agree with the sandisk model but not with the rest.
windows can and will use the extra memory, it just has to be setup correctly

second, if you have a slow emmc, chances are cloning the whole emmc to the usb and the make it the primary boot drive will make the pc faster since most fast usb3 outperform slower emmc.

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[De Panda]

Received the Teclast F5 2-in-1 two days ago and been quite happy with it. As confirmed by pretty much all reviews you can’t fault the build quality and value for money.

Yesterday I decided to install a fresh copy of Windows on the SSD from USB and it all worked as expected. In order to make best use of the 8GB memory I installed a 64 bit copy of  Windows 10 Home  and it got activated with the BIOS embedded key without any issues. All hardware drivers were auto installed and there are no yellow exclamation signs on device manager either.

Unfortunately from this point the tablet mode auto activation with the auto disabling of the keyboard/touchpad stopped working. I’ve spent hours and hours to no avail and being a relatively new device I’m unable to find any references to this issue on the web either.  The closest I could find was the same issue happening with the Teclast F6 after a fresh install of Windows and both the problem and the fix are documented here: https://techtablets.com/forum/topic/keyboard-and-touchpad-not-disabled-in-tablet-mode/page/4/

After going through this thread I applied the potential fix (copy HingeAngleService.exe to Windows/System32 and append registry key) but perhaps being being a different model inspite of having the same sensors this did not work on the F5.

So far I’ve been spending hours and hours trying to fix this so some expert help would be much appreciated. Even if I could find a cloned image of the factory SSD I’m happy to use it. Being overconfident (which looks quite stupid now) I didn’t bother cloning the existing SSD image before the reinstall.