[Rene]

It isn’t needed imo, the tablet has got decent cooling, where the back of the CPU cooler is directly touching the large aluminum case, which acts like a giant heat spreader. From the tests Chris ran, no thermal throttling was applied, no matter how hard it was pushed.

[Rene]

Thanks for reporting, i’ll test it on mine. I was testing a new lens on my xiaomi Yi camera and noticed a gap in the reality of the colors, perhaps it was the screen afterall 🙂

[Rene]

Charging is somewhat slow; but with a best case scenario; battery is ~10000mAh, charger 2500, CC/CV charging charesterics of the used LIPO cells make it hard to get it topped off in 4 hours; this would mean the charger would run at 2.5A for 4 hours, which is not the case. At about 80-90% of the capacity the battery reaches the 4.2V limit, and the full 2.5A will be throttled down to maintain the 4.2V (hence the constant voltage/constant current charging)

Now, what interests me is why Chuwi is claiming ‘which adopts 3A fast charge technique; which shortens the charging time by 20%’ (which is correct, since 3A is 20% more than 2.5A)

BUT… The included charger is 2.5A…….. So with the 11000mAh battery, this should take more than 5 hours to be fully charged.

[Rene]

LOL! Too funny Marc. Perhaps you are right, but since I didn’t shoot any pics I think it’s pretty worthless to the most of us. Perhaps I’m obliged to open it up again and shoot some pics.

About the sound; mine is suffering from it as well. I think it depends on the temperature of the motherboard/hardware; sometimes it’s silent at 25% and sometimes I hear it. Mine suffers from it too. I switched it on, with the back off; it’s a tiny coil that’s reproducing the sound from my observation. (must be the switchin frequency that’s audible through a resonance of that coil) I ran a simple RTA measurement on my (i)phone (the nowadays used mics are pretty good in terms of linearity) It shows the frequency is about 14/15khz (not too accurate, I’m using an Audio Technica app that’s freeware with a relative course 30band representation of the audio-spektrum) I could do a better measurement, but it’s obvious it’s there. It’s producing roughly 17db of that annoying sound. (with a fully assembled enclosure) (noise floor I pick up on the phone is about 15db on that particular frequency), so it shows a 32db. (not calibrated in any way)

Since it’s (most likely) that coil (hard to determine the location of the sound, even with the back off) it might help to get a drop of thin CA glue on it and use some accelerator to shut it up for good.

The bad thing is; during the day I like it to run at 50%, with relative more noise. At night, I tend to run it at 0-9% (most quite time of the day) and I hear that beep.. It’s like watching a CRT monitor with a high level of white in the image. Brings me back a few years in history.

[Rene]

I opened up mine to solve my unstable wifi, (windows 10 version) and had a peek at the touch hardware; it was covered with a kaptop tape with a large X, when taking of the kapton tape, it revealed the GT9110.
This confirms the change in hardware. I didn’t had a camera at hand, so you must take my word for it.

 

I opened up mine to solve my unstable wifi, (windows 10 version) and had a peek at the touch hardware; it was covered with a kaptop tape with a large X, when taking of the kapton tape, it revealed the GT9110.
This confirms the change in hardware. I didn’t had a camera at hand, so you must take my word for it.

WiFi is doing fine now; There where a few things wrong;  the wire was hard-pressed on a capacitor on the mainboard, damaging the isolation, and the antenna itself was damaged by a notch from  a clamping mechanism on the shell (acting like a scissor, biting two pieces from the antenna) I soldered them together again and routed the cable correctly, covering it with kapton tpe. Since a long cable is used for wifi, i also took some isolation from the  outer core, and hooked it up to the GND using conducive tape. (the back of the LCD is GND)

Result! First I didn’t get anything above 15mbit/sec and upstairs it was as low as 2mbit/s, it’s now showing a 30-40mbit/sec and a decent 8-15mbit/sec upstairs. I notice no difference with bluetooth enabled or disabled.
I’m using a router with DD-WRT firmware, so I can monitor the quality of the signal; there is no drop in quality when BT is enabled.

Sorry for the lack of picture. Getting the ‘creak’ out of the shell is easy too, just use some thin double-sided tape or thin foam (i used the latter) Just put it on some strategic points. It feels way better/more solid when it’s not creaking.. 🙂
Opening the tablet; T4 torx, and I used a guitar pick-like (the thick blue ones with a thin edge)
when holding the tablet in landscape position, like you would normally use it, start in the right upper part., work your way to the upper left, then through the left, (where the mainboard is located) to about the half of it. Now start to open the right side to the bottom. lift the right side gently from the rear, the left bottom side will now unhook and you can just take it apart. (no wires)
When assembling it, be careful with the bottom docking plug. It protrudes the shell, so it needs to be put in place first. And be careful with the volume rocker/on-off button on top. it just snaps back together.
Result! First I didn’t get anything above 15mbit/sec and upstairs it was as low as 2mbit/s, it’s now showing a 30-40mbit/sec and a decent 8-15mbit/sec upstairs. I notice no difference with bluetooth enabled or disabled.

I’m using a router with DD-WRT firmware, so I can monitor the quality of the signal; there is no drop in quality when BT is enabled.

Sorry for the lack of picture. Getting the ‘creak’ out of the shell is easy too, just use some thin double-sided tape or thin foam (i used the latter) Just put it on some strategic points. It feels way better/more solid when it’s not creaking.. 🙂

Opening the tablet; T4 torx, and I used a guitar pick-like (the thick blue ones with a thin edge)

when holding the tablet in landscape possition, like you would normally use it, start in the right upper part., work your way to the upper left, then through the left, (where the mainboard is located) to about the half of it. Now start to open the right side to the bottom. lift the right side gently from the rear, the left bottom side will now unhook and you can just take it apart. (no wires)
When assembling it, be carefull with the bottom docking plug. It protrudes the shell, so it needs to be put in place first. And be carefull with the volume rocker/on-off button on top. it just snaps back together.

 

[Rene]

Sounds like you have the option to go for dualboot! What’s your serial? (is it with the traditional ’10’ in the number)?

[Rene]

No problem Brad. I tried to create a backup of the tablet using 3rd party tools, and after recovery it was unable to boot properly. I was more than happy to find out recovery was possible.

And yes, nowadays the line between being paranoid or realistic is becoming thinner by the day.

 

 

[Rene]

Brad, your question strikes me as odd. This thread explains how to restore your tablet if you bricked it or damaged windows to a degree of not being functional anymore. Or to do a complete fresh installation of windows, if you just have the urge to do this.

so benificial, yes. Not working vs working tablet.

if you have a perfect working tablet,  share your time with family and friends, rather than to install the very same drivers and the very same os  with the very same results as before the operation.

it won’t be twice as fast, neither improve the wifi quality.

 

[Rene]

That pwm noise: wouldn’t it simple be a poor quality coil?

[Rene]

Brad: What files are you exactly referring to?

[Rene]

Please make an how-to on opening the tablet, I think many people would benefit from it.

[Rene]

When using it in a relative dark enviroment, i like to run mine at 7-9 percent. It makes this noise too. Very annoying.

[Rene]

I also have got a terrible slow/poor internet experience on the HI12. Webpages are slow to load.

 

Don’t know if this happened after the reload of windows or if it had this behaviour before.

[Rene]

You could also try to contact fasttech? Their support is pretty good.

[Rene]

Yes, I noticed the very same thing..

[Author]

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