[Chris]

This works perfect for me.

Charger is 65w and does a range of voltages (stopping me from forgetting and pluging into my phone).

OUTPUT:  5V 3A,    9V 3A,     12V 3A,    15V 3A,    20V 3.25A

https://amzn.to/3dDomN9

[Chris]

Kike wrote:

I’m sorry. I have bought a TECLAST F5 too and now it’s my fifth USB HUB that is not compatible with my Laptop. Two of them are UGREEN and they don´t work either. I am 1 week looking for one compatible and I still could’nt find it.

Seriously, why not just use the micro usb port. I use it with my hub, works perfectly fine.

[Chris]

Tasio wrote:

Does anyone else have a Teclast F5 for a year or so and didn’t suffer from the swelling issue? I like this laptop but the build quality is low and I’m afraid I could expend some money replacing the battery and run into the same or a different hardware issue soon so I’m not sure what to do.

Just got mine. I have to disagree, build quality is awesome. I find people are just to heavy handed these days. All batteries of these type expand, due to heat, over charging, etc etc.

My two year old Ezpad 6s Pro, did exactly the same thing. It was pushing my screen out from front. Being an engineer, I expelled gases.  I DON’T RECOMMEND ANYONE DOING THIS, UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING. AS IT CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS!!!!

Think main issue, the EZpad 6s PRO battery, is hard to find. Plus the ones I did find. Im sorry are way to expensive. I use my Ezpad for work as my main work station. So its always plugged in (unless Im, viewing a schematic on it). With my F5, I unplug it once charged and then run it down to around 20% before charging again.

 

[Chris]

I bought a DogFish 120GB SSD. First drive died after 1 days constant use. They replaced it and been using replacement nonstop for 9 to 10 hours a day.

I have gone a bit nuts on my pimping of my 6 PRO. Did the Shim mod (x2) and the SSD install, now im going to remove shims and attempt to fits the worlds smallest fan into it, :). I have some good speed at moment, but want to push it further. As with shims, highest score I get in benchmark is 550+. This is alot better than stock of 379 – 400.

I did promise pics and stuff, so this time, I will take loads of pics.

[Chris]

You have altered boot order in BIOS?

EFI is one of the options as first boot device.

[Chris]

Benjamin wrote:

Chris wrote:

Every time, 10 secs in wifi dies. Disable bluetooth and wifi comes back.

I’ve not noticed something like that yet. I tested a bluetooth file transfer from my phone over bt to my pc and apart from the download speed beeing cut in half (from 10MBps to 5MBps) I didn’t notice any connection losses. But I’m using linux, but this confirms thaf the hardware is able to handle bt and wifi at the same time. But I don’t have an Xbox controller to test with, so it might be different depending on the device. Is your wifi completely dead or is it just to slow to strean the xbox diplay data?

 

Correct, completely dead. Physically says there is no interent connection. Even though its still connected to my network. Im not using XBox controller, Im using World of Joystick to make PC think BT controller is Xbox controller. However even when not using WOJ app, issues still happen.

Search on the net, say its a very common problem / complaint. So maybe there is something different in drivers or way windows handles things.

[Chris]

Benjamin wrote:

Chris wrote:

Have to say thank you to Benjamin. I used your drivers and the drivers from the jumper site to create a fresh fully updated recovery iso. Just installed an 120gb SSD, so testing iso on that, all good so far. Only bad news is, jumper must not have tested this tablet when connected to TV through HDMI. Sound is not working even with original drivers. So it wasnt the drivers I updated after all. I will edit recovery iso now to see if I can get touch working in boot.wim. As not every one has a keyboard. I could also do a touch screen A one too. Might help others do a fresh install. EDIT:- As Im testing. Im trying everything that caused issues in past. I have updated all drivers bar USB HUB (really Bluetooth chip) and Bosh Sensor. HDMI audio now works with latest drivers. Now with USB HUB, its mis-identified (if you allow it to be updated, it takes out Bluetooth chip and sets all devices attached to various other Bluetooth devices). This explains why a fresh install without drivers has, no wireless and any other device attached to Bluetooth chip. Apparently the BlueTooth chip is running USB3 HUB and anything attached to it. Will continue testing and tweaking until I have answers to all issues, I have experienced.

The Wifi/Bluetooth combo chip is an rtl8723bu which is connected with usb2.0 internally.

Is that why bluetooth takes out wifi while using both at same time. Was steaming XBOX while using bluetooth joypad as XBOX controller. Every time, 10 secs in wifi dies. Disable bluetooth and wifi comes back.

[Chris]

To update. I bought 2 copper shims, decent thermal paste and some thermal pads. I pasted the CPU, put shim on top then pasted that and put heatsink on top. I then themal padded the recess and put second shim there. I also stuck copper (0.3mm) to back case (pushes against second shim) to help take heat.

I can now get up to 30 FPS on heaven benchmark, with temps holding at around 80 to 85 deg. Have to say, this tablet is very nippy. Faster than my old dual core 2.2 GHz laptop. So will be transfering all data from that to the tablet. Will be using it for work instead.

[Chris]

Have to say thank you to Benjamin. I used your drivers and the drivers from the jumper site to create a fresh fully updated recovery iso. Just installed an 120gb SSD, so testing iso on that, all good so far. Only bad news is, jumper must not have tested this tablet when connected to TV through HDMI. Sound is not working even with original drivers. So it wasnt the drivers I updated after all.

I will edit recovery iso now to see if I can get touch working in boot.wim. As not every one has a keyboard. I could also do a touch screen A one too. Might help others do a fresh install.

 

EDIT:- As Im testing. Im trying everything that caused issues in past. I have updated all drivers bar USB HUB (really Bluetooth chip) and Bosh Sensor. HDMI audio now works with latest drivers. Now with USB HUB, its mis-identified (if you allow it to be updated, it takes out Bluetooth chip and sets all devices attached to various other Bluetooth devices). This explains why a fresh install without drivers has, no wireless and any other device attached to Bluetooth chip. Apparently the BlueTooth chip is running USB3 HUB and anything attached to it.

Will continue testing and tweaking until I have answers to all issues, I have experienced.

[Chris]

I wouldnt worry. Its not ment to have a led. Infact, I have never ever seen a led to show its active on any device. Plus there is no where for it to shine through on case. Atleast not on mine.

Off topic. I see you have the official keyboard. Does yours leave silver paint of screen when closed. Mine is leaving paint from keyboard everytime I clean it off.

 

[Chris]

I get this, however no error. It just turned off completely after being in sleep for a while. I press power to come out of sleep only to be greated with a post screen. Doesn’t bother me, its not a fault with hardware.

[Chris]

Benjamin wrote:

Have I understood it right? you want to reinstall windows/do a fresh install? If you have a working tochscreen you can backup the currently in use drivers with a windows inbuils system command by opening cmd (Command prompt) with administrative priviledged and use “DISM /online /export-driver /destination:C:\path\to\folder” (see https://pureinfotech.com/backup-drivers-dism-command-line-windows-10/) My drivers should work for you in theory, but I would still backup and use your drivers for the fresh install. One thing to keep in mind is that Windows might only output an image over the microhdmi and not to the touchscreen when there is no driver installed and my tablet also crashed without the right realtek wifi driver(the one microsoft supplies reboots the tablet after 1minute or so).

Doesn’t work, I did a full backup as you described already. First thing I tried when I got it. I used to do alot of Linx Vision fresh iso’s with full touch support. I dump all backed up drivers into the image, so it can’t moan there is drivers missing. I do have a HDMI sound driver issue at the moment. Windows updated main driver and left the OED driver, it now complains. It cant start driver. After reading up, it appears both drivers are part and parcel and need to be updated together. However no matter what I did, it would not work. I had to disable it in Device manager.

With jumper, its odd. Backed up drivers don’t work, you get the ghosting effect others have mentioned. So there must be some type of configuration done when full driver package first installs. As we are only backing up INF, Im guessing its only part of the driver. Lynx used to have a GT file in the Windows folder.

I also found that a fresh install caused problems with WiFi. It appears the WiFi is attached to the USB hub. I used driver updater to grab all the latest drivers and once it installed the usb controller drivers, all devices attached to that hub were screwed. Even going back to original driver didn’t help, as it had already changed alot of devices to something else. So only option I had, was to go back to my original bloated install and update to lastest version from there. This time avoiding the USB driver and touchscreen update.

I did ask jumper directly for drivers, as I can’t get them from that stupid site the put them on and they completely ignored me. I got more help from the reseller I bought it from.

[Chris]

Ok, Leaving it on defaults seems to give fastest results. Running benchmarks, its gives best score than when messing with it.

I have also taken it apart to see if I can fit a 2mm heatsink. Unfortunately, there is no room. However I did spot a factory blunder. The copper screw holes are not soldered in, so 2 were not attached. This caused heatsink to raise and not make good contact with CPU. I will resolder and test again.

EDIT:-

After resoldering screw holes and adding another thermal pad. I found that disabling CPU option in DTFP config gave good results.

I found that untweaked, my bench mark would average 11 to 13 FPS (SCORE = 280). After tweaking, it climbed to around 22 FPS (SCORE = 453). CPU holds at around 90 degs, dont even notice it throttling. I will buy some more thermal pad and 2mm heatsink. See if I can get it to go faster.

[Chris]

Benjamin wrote:

josip wrote:

for some reason it still doesn’t work for me. I’ve tried flashing bios with american megatrends bios application and tried installing those drivers by manually replacing them in system folder. nothing helped ?

I would advise against copying the driver directly into system folders, that never worked for me! You can’t be sure if it actually uses your new driver if there is more than one driver installed (which is very likely if you have been experimenting with drivers for the touchscreen). Instead, use the device manager and select under HID-Devices->”KMDF HID Minidriver for Touch I2C Device”->(rightklick)”update driver”->”Browse my computer for driver software”->”Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer” (Note: there you can see any drivers already installed for this device) ->”Have Disk…”->select the ini-file of the driver and windows will load your selected driver for this device immediately. I had a wrong driver installed and after selecting the right one the touchscreen worked right away, no restart requiered. So if my driver should not work just try other ones and test them the same way. (i would guess that there are only two touch panels that jumper uses for the ezpad 6 (s) pro). And please don’t brick your tablet with dangerous bios flashes, they will not help you with your touchscreen, all issues come from this kmdf driver / a wrong version. You could also open your tablet (at your own risk, will void your warranty but I guess Chinese warranty is a joke if they can’t even offer you device drivers) and look at the connector of the touch screen and find out which model if is. See: https://imgur.com/R0Gcepj Another possibility is to install the bosch accelerometer driver version a and after that version b and see if the rotation is 180° inverted. The autorotation will be 180° inverted with the wrong one. But I would try my driver and the other one for the a-touchscreen which I saw somewhere here in the forums first. EDIT: Attached touch and accel drivers for model a+b (not 100% sure on model a as I can’t test if those drivers are working)

I have b version touchscreen. As I backed up whole MMC before actually booting windows when I got it. I was able to go back to as new and it all worked.

So I wonder if your drivers will work on my 6 pro, I can then create a fresh up to date windows 10 install.

josip wrote:

thanks benjamin. my drivers are same as yours although rotation still doesn’t work for some reason. its kinda late and i just came back from work so i’ll try to figure out what’s next to delete to make system functioning ? cheers for all the help, you saved everyone on this forum, or atleast on this thread

 

Check if its greyed out or missing in notifications. I found that some times after updates or fresh install, it would disable the services and reg values for rotation. I had to manually enable it in reg etc etc.

[Chris]

TDP in bios doesnt work. If its set to anything other than 6, it takes what ever wattage it wants and ignores wattage value you set.
So it ramps up to 25 watts and shuts off.

[Author]

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