Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[Jon]

Hey first post I have been keeping an eye on here I sometimes get critical error and it will reboot I have the black usb3 and Windows 32bit not sure if I can send it back to be rectified ??? Every time I reboot I have to eject and reinsert my 128gb Samsung memory wifi is terrible works best over a 2.4hz wifi don’t know why and the power button no longer locks the screen 1 tap shuts down and volume up is screen shot  not volume and volume down now opens ctrl alt del window

[tmoyashi]

Hey guys, my Hi10(V300) successfully booted into Marshmallow 🙂  (sorry for ugly pic)

You may want to prepare

• the latest android-x86 image (android-x86-6.0_20160129.iso) (from here) — kudos to Chi-Wei and his team!
• Android x86 Easy Installer by ExtremeGTX
• USB3.0 thumb drive(>= 4GB)
• USB keyboard & mouse

After the installation, open EFI/Android/grub.cfg and remove “_64” (from “android_x86_64”).

Some of the important features(such as eMMC, wifi and battery status) are not working , so Kazama-san’s method is still better yet.

However, thanks to developers, we already have drivers for wifi & bluetooth in the Linux kernel (may be, the touchscreen driver is also available?).

In the near future, our Hi10 will be the beast!

 

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[Anonymous]

I was browsing around on android-x86 and noticed there was a newer x86 Android testing ISO marshmallow dated “2016-01-29”

http://sourceforge.net/projects/android-x86/files/Testing/

I downloaded the ISO and placed it on a 8GB USB stick using rufus to create a bootable USB.

It worked on the Teclast X16 Pro, I was able to fully boot up into the GUI.. the built in Teclast X16 wifi device ( Realtek RTL8723BS ) wasn’t detected, I used an older asus wifi USB device to get internet on it.. the builtin bluetooth does in fact work so you can get internet on it that way via your mobile phone or bluetooth on any PC (even a $1 USB bluetooth dongle device shared on a PC will work)

The touch screen didn’t work though..

After trying the latest Ubuntu, Remix OS 2, with out getting much without significantly changing kernel boot options etc I was in fact happy to see this ( android-x86-6.0_20160129.iso ) load up as well as it did out of the box…

Here are some photos, not much I know as it was in the dark….

[Daniel]

@jakob-rasmussen No I havent done a benchmark. And now my ssd has borke down so Im waiting for my new one to arrive later this week I hope. I will run a benchmark when I have installed it.

Im looking forward to see what you have to say about the wifi-antennas. I too was thinking that there might be a chance to solder on a usb wifi dongle to the pins on the motherboard. I hope the four pins are easy to work with.

[Anonymous]

Has anybody who opened their tablet  checked Wifi antenna sitution? Is there a missing, dangling antenna cable. At the very least my hope is to speed up the wifi performance. Also, is it final now that one can mod this for a full USB port so that we can use microUSB for full time charging?

[robert wisdom]

Did you get it working correctly? Mirek’s doesn’t mess with the windows partition, unless you mess with the mirek’s batch file to include repartitioning or reflashing the bootloader.  Anyway, First, I use rufus to make all my bootable images, except if its related to flashing hard drive firmware, then I use winimage and use the .img extracted from the .bin (long story). You have to install android first (no matter what, unless you only want to run windows). Don’t use mirek, it doesn’t install the bootloader, use the stock one posted in downloads on techtablets. Use the intel phone flash tool and use the stock rom’s json file. It will install the bootloader and repartition the android side. After that you can install mireks. you don’t need to mess with the bios much. I’ve actually got everything to install without messing with fastboot. after you install android, then use rufus to create a bootable image of gparted. Then you boot into gparted, don’t do it through the direct boot in the bios, just put the otg cable in, connected to your usb hub with keyboard and mouse AND BOOTABLE GPARTED USB. When you boot you will see an option to boot into android and “W”, the “W” is the gparted drive, select that. If you don’t get the dual boot menu, hold down the up volume after you see the initial bios screen for a few seconds. Then you’ll get the dual boot screen and boot into “w” or gparted rather. In gparted you are going to have an unpartitioned space and to the left of it 3 small partitions, then the android data partition. Resize the android data partition, I set mine a 7gb, then move the 3 small partitions to the left of the newly created unpartitioned space. You won’t be able to move the one called “persistent” though. You will have to mark it as “clear” in gparted and apply. Then move it, then mark it back as ext4. Then you will have one contiguous free space to install windows to. Its important to do this BEFORE you install windows. If you do it after you install windows, it will perpetually run chkdsk every time you boot into windows, if you can deal with that, then resize after you install windows, lol (probably tell i’ve been through this procedure about 20 times).
Ok, now you can install windows. I put windows 10 enterprise, which is now up to version 11102. Ive tried so many different ways to get windows on without messing up android, it has been difficult. You cant touch the first 10 or 11 or maybe 12 partitions, (I forget). I found a chinese installer that you can use to customize the windows installation. If you need it, or maybe just a link to it let me know. After I customized the installation and put my version of windows (enterprise 11102) I wanted to install through the customized windows 10 PE auto installer, in which I converted the original .iso into a .wim, then I split the .wim into install.swm and install2.swm, which the customized windows 10 PE auto installer script called for.  I had to use a windows 10PE 10565, because the earlier version wouldn’t complete the newer installation of enterprise.  I booted to it through the usb and the “w” in the dual boot menu, and it went through the installation great, except it rebooted at the end, when I wasn’t paying attention, and installed it twice, lol. I unplugged the usb the second time, before the reboot started. Everything works perfectly now.

Hope this helps and leads to more answers than questions, lol:)

You can use just windows 10 pro and the windows 10 image found on this site, you can just make a .wim out of the .iso and split the image with powershell into 2 .swm.  Just make sure you use the 10240 version of windows 10 pro and paste it into the image found here.  It has to be, because the window PE included in that version won’t install a new version.  You also have to use 2 .swm because its a dual boot tablet, there has to be essentially 2 images on the installation. That what the chinese tell me anyway.  You’ll see the windows installation script run diskpart, to verify the android partitions are there and it will make sure and lock them and install windows after them.

Anyway, ive got mireks 3.0 at like 16gb and windows at 41gbish.  You can install other versions of android too, i’ve messed around with cm13.1, the android x86 version, but I can’t get wifi working.  I’ve also triple booted miui, the latest version that just came out, well, today, lol.  I don’t want to take anything away from this site, but I’m a moderator on another chinese site, lol and they have a ton of more information regarding just about everything with these chinese tablets.  Here’s a tidbit about the new miui rom that came out today: 2016-1-29 19:10 (their time)
AlphaBate
link: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1i4yEGoX
scratch:
1. update to MIUI 6.1.21
2. official repair:
clock: stopwatch FC, alarm clock FC
3. Increase: millet video, millet browser
4. The power unknown ~ ~

you’re going to need the password to download the file, I can’t give it to you, but I’m sure, with the power of google, you can locate this particular site, because, well, it is the official teclast forum site for the company, lol.  Get used to google translate, :).

[robert wisdom]

Did you get it working correctly? Mirek’s doesn’t mess with the windows partition, unless you mess with the mirek’s batch file to include repartitioning or reflashing the bootloader. Anyway, First, I use rufus to make all my bootable images, except if its related to flashing hard drive firmware, then I use winimage and use the .img extracted from the .bin (long story). You have to install android first (no matter what, unless you only want to run windows). Don’t use mirek, it doesn’t install the bootloader, use the stock one posted in downloads on techtablets. Use the intel phone flash tool and use the stock rom’s json file. It will install the bootloader and repartition the android side. After that you can install mireks. you don’t need to mess with the bios much. I’ve actually got everything to install without messing with fastboot. after you install android, then use rufus to create a bootable image of gparted. Then you boot into gparted, don’t do it through the direct boot in the bios, just put the otg cable in, connected to your usb hub with keyboard and mouse AND BOOTABLE GPARTED USB. When you boot you will see an option to boot into android and “W”, the “W” is the gparted drive, select that. If you don’t get the dual boot menu, hold down the up volume after you see the initial bios screen for a few seconds. Then you’ll get the dual boot screen and boot into “w” or gparted rather. In gparted you are going to have an unpartitioned space and to the left of it 3 small partitions, then the android data partition. Resize the android data partition, I set mine a 7gb, then move the 3 small partitions to the left of the newly created unpartitioned space. You won’t be able to move the one called “persistent” though. You will have to mark it as “clear” in gparted and apply. Then move it, then mark it back as ext4. Then you will have one contiguous free space to install windows to. Its important to do this BEFORE you install windows. If you do it after you install windows, it will perpetually run chkdsk every time you boot into windows, if you can deal with that, then resize after you install windows, lol (probably tell i’ve been through this procedure about 20 times).
Ok, now you can install windows. I put windows 10 enterprise, which is now up to version 11102. Ive tried so many different ways to get windows on without messing up android, it has been difficult. You cant touch the first 10 or 11 or maybe 12 partitions, (I forget). I found a chinese installer that you can use to customize the windows installation. If you need it, or maybe just a link to it let me know. After I customized the installation and put my version of windows (enterprise 11102) I wanted to install through the customized windows 10 PE auto installer, in which I converted the original .iso into a .wim, then I split the .wim into install.swm and install2.swm, which the customized windows 10 PE auto installer script called for. I had to use a windows 10PE 10565, because the earlier version wouldn’t complete the newer installation of enterprise. I booted to it through the usb and the “w” in the dual boot menu, and it went through the installation great, except it rebooted at the end, when I wasn’t paying attention, and installed it twice, lol. I unplugged the usb the second time, before the reboot started. Everything works perfectly now.

Hope this helps and leads to more answers than questions, lol:)

You can use just windows 10 pro and the windows 10 image found on this site, you can just make a .wim out of the .iso and split the image with powershell into 2 .swm. Just make sure you use the 10240 version of windows 10 pro and paste it into the image found here. It has to be, because the window PE included in that version won’t install a new version. You also have to use 2 .swm because its a dual boot tablet, there has to be essentially 2 images on the installation. That what the chinese tell me anyway. You’ll see the windows installation script run diskpart, to verify the android partitions are there and it will make sure and lock them and install windows after them.

Anyway, ive got mireks 3.0 at like 16gb and windows at 41gbish. You can install other versions of android too, i’ve messed around with cm13.1, the android x86 version, but I can’t get wifi working. I’ve also triple booted miui, the latest version that just came out, well, today, lol. I don’t want to take anything away from this site, but I’m a moderator on another chinese site, lol and they have a ton of more information regarding just about everything with these chinese tablets. Here’s a tidbit about the new miui rom that came out today: 2016-1-29 19:10 (their time)
AlphaBate
link: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1i4yEGoX
1. update to MIUI 6.1.21
2. official repair:
clock: stopwatch FC, alarm clock FC
3. Increase: millet video, millet browser
4. The power unknown ~ ~

you’re going to need the password to download the file, I can’t give it to you, but I’m sure, with the power of google, you can locate this particular site, because, well, it is the official teclast forum site for the company, lol. Get used to google translate, if you’re going to be on that site.

[Daniel]

I was looking quickly at the USB-ports while I had the backplate removed. And from what I saw, it didnt look impossible to solder on some new wires to the usb-pins on the motherboard. If that is possible, then I might be able to fit a usb wifi-dongle in the tablet. I will investigate it more when I open it next time when I install my 4g-modem

[Anonymous]

Peter wrote:

A liitle update to charging issue: i bought several cables (22AWG,18AWG) and all i could get in the tablet when turned on using blitzwolf charger was around 968 mW according to battery bar. I even got a new micro usb charger 5V and up to 3A and the most i got was 1440 mW and it varies from 528 mW (which is normal charge rate with all other cables and chargers i get when tablet turned on) to 700 mW to 968 mW and to 1008 mw, basicly everything from 528 to 1440 mW. Interesting thing is when i plug charger into tablet it shows 528 mW and than it goes up to whatever number it gets in couple of minutes. But the Windows battery icon shows the same time of charge left no matter how much the input is according to battery bar. Does anyone has simmilar experience with charging their tablet and what is charging input you get in battery bar when tablet turned on. It really bothers me this slow and painfull charging when tablet on, so any comments or suggestions are much appreciated.

I get about the same thing as you Peter. Here are my results at 85% charged, 25% screen bright, Wifi on, BT off.
On battery 650mw discharge at 25% bright. 800mw at 50% bright

Stock TC charger and cable……………………….960 mw BatteryBar charge rate. Without inline meter.
The cheapo usb amp meter I have says I am drawing 1.5 A at 750 mw charge rate on BatteryBar.

BlackBerry PlayBook 1.8A 2 wire charger……………1,120 mw

I noticed that at 25% bright, if unplug the charger it goes to 50%.
With the meter I also noticed that if I just giggled the cable a bit the amps went down and it took a few minutes to go back up again.

Max

[Lupo]

Hello, the latest version of Linux Mint is working well on Chuwi Hi10 (Intel Atom x5-Z8300 Cherry Trail) tablet, the dual boot Windows 10 / Linux Mint installation is pretty easy.

I have published detailed instructions here

What hardware have been tested and is working OK:

• USB system is working perfectly, you can attach and use any USB hardware: WiFi cards, Ethernet adapters, you have got full access to the 3G / 4G Mobile networks via attachment to a Android phone and USB tethering.
• the original Chuwi keyboard and touch pad are working OK.
• you have got full access to the main flash drive on the tablet with the UEFI and the Windows partition.
• you have got full access to your memory card in the Micro SD card slot.
• Bluethoot system is fully functional but a driver have to be installed manually after the Linux installation.

What is NOT working … yet:

• the integrated WiFi card – there are third party Linux drivers available which can be used, I have made few tests but still not able to use it.
• the sound card – still haven’t made attempts to set it up.
• the touch screen isn’t working.
• the display can’t be rotated even manually … you can use it in portrait mode only. This is a problem if you have a original Chuwi keyboard 🙁 I’m using Linux on my Chuwi Hi10 tablet now with this USB keyboard an mouse but have purchased this USB keyboard and this stand also.
• the battery is not detected by the Linux OS.

P.S. The Linux black screen problem after boot is very easy to be fixed, just use the instructions in paragraph 6 / 7 here

[SwanS]

Hi, Fran,

mine is V200 (i.e. broadcom wifi and black usb3 port).

[William]

I love nearly everything about the X16 except the subpar wifi reception.  I want to use a wifi dongle to get over that one hump I have with this tablet but I have no idea how to look into the build to see what chipsets are built into the android version it is using.  I know many older ones have drivers for specific chipsets that are plug and play.  Any one have any insight on how to dig into the build to get the built in drivers so that I can buy the right dongle and fix this up.

 

Thank you!

[Lupo]

In this posting I will describe step by step how you can use the latest version of the Linux Mint OS 17.3 on the Chuwi Hi10 Tablet

(Check the edit at the bottom of this post and the report here about Chuwi Hi12 and Linux Mint 18 Cinnamon)

In general there are few different scenarios for using the Linux Mint on the Chuwi H10 tablet:

1. You can boot the Linux Mint from a USB flash drive an test it – this will be described in the second post.
2.  You can install easily Linux Mint on a separate partition on the main flash drive of the Chuwi Hi10 tablet and to use the tablet with dual boot OS: Win 10 and Linux Mint – this process will be described step by step in the third post.
3. You can install Linux Mint on a separate USB flash drive (USB disk) but the Linux OS will be slower then the main flash drive installation method.
4. You can install the Linux Mint on the Micro SD card BUT the Chuwi Hi10 UEFI firmware (BIOS) don’t have access to the SD Card and you are NOT able to boot from the Micro SD card directly. You probably could fix this problem if you make a small partition (around 50-100 MB) on the main flash drive and mount this partition on  /boot  directory during the Linux Mint setup process.

All scenarios are working pretty well and you can use almost very well the power of the Linux Mint OS on this fast tablet hardware. The Linux OS is working much faster than Windows on this hardware if Linux Mint have been installed on a separate partition on the main Chuwi Hi10 flash drive.

What hardware have been tested and is working OK:

• USB system is working perfectly, you can attach and use any USB hardware: WiFi cards, Ethernet adapters, you have got full access to the 3G / 4G Mobile networks via attachment to a Android phone and USB tethering.
• the original Chuwi keyboard and touch pad are working OK.
• you have got full access to the main flash drive on the tablet with the UEFI and the Windows partition.
• you have got full access to your memory card in the Micro SD card slot.
• Bluethoot system is fully functional but a driver have to be installed manually after the Linux installation. The Bluetooth driver is this one: https://github.com/lwfinger/rtl8723bs_bt use the instructions in the readme file.
• WiFi card is working OK, more information here: http://techtablets.com/forum/topic/linux-mint-on-a-chuwi-hi10-tablet/page/6/#post-39937
• The display can be rotated with the new beta video driver i915, which have to be installed separately
• I’m using a external USB sound card, because the internal one isn’t working yet …
  It’s plug and play in Linux ?  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-sale-white-USB-2-0-Virtual-7-1-Channel-Audio-Sound-Card-Adapter-sound-cards/32351638008.html

What is NOT working … yet:

• the sound card is not working, but you can purchase a external USB sound card, it’s working perfectly this way.
• the touch screen isn’t working.
• the battery is not detected by the Linux OS.

Whay I’m using Linux on Chuwi Hi10 Tablet? 🙂

• Well, I’m using mostly (98-99% of my time) Linux OS for the last 17 years …
• I’m not OK with the fact that Windblows 10 OS send many parts of my personal data from my tablet to the M$ servers when M$ decide so.
• I’m not happy with the fact that in Win 10 i CAN’T switch off the windows update service.
• I have full access to such a grate software like: Darktable software for RAW Images editing and the Kdenlive video editing software
• Have such a Powerful and Secure OS like Linux on my small and light weight but powerful Chuwi Hi10 tablet 🙂

I’ll record and publish here also a short video demo of both types of set up.

EDIT 03.07.2016

Destry wrote:

Today I installed Linux Mint Cinnamon 18 full release on the HI12 Dual Boot with no installation issues. Did a complete disk wipe and install. Got wifi working. Still working on sound and touch screen. Resolution: 2160×1440 @ 59.95hz What was strange was 2 weeks ago when I used live usb of Cinnamon 18 beta, touch screen worked. That was before I wiped the drive though..

[Raymond Velden]

Youtube video

Chuwi Vi8 Plus Review.
Introduction.
This tablet. the second windows 10 tablet that I am reviewing on this site. Is the follow-up of the older Chuwi Vi8 dual boot tablet with windows 8.1 and android. The reason this one is worth reviewing is that its has the latest on-board specifications.
Price and specifications.
For the moment of writing this review the price is $91 at gearbest. The specifications are as follows

CPU: Intel Atom x5-Z8300
RAM: 2GB
ROM/STORAGE: 32GB
SCREEN: 8.0 inch 1280 x 800 IPS
OS: Windows 10
BATTERY: 4000mAh
Dual cameras
Bluetooth 4.0
HDMI + Headphone +USB C + TF

Design and build quality.
Well. there is no doubt about the design and build quality of this tablet. It looks and feels very high end to me. And it looks a lot more expensive as it actually is. Here are some pictures for the eyes.

The size of the tablet is actually between the old Chuwi and Cube iwork8. 
Inputs and outputs.
Where my old Chuwi had some mini HDMI problems. This one worked instantly. But the most intressting thing about this device is the USB-C connector. 

I am still not sure if this is an advantage or an disadvantage, One of the advantages is that its an upcoming standard of connecting devices. And a lot of cables will be USB C very soon. Its reversible so you can never put it in the wrong way like an micro USB or normal USB adapter.

The disadvantage is that it doesn’t come with an OTG cable meaning you can’t use your old OTG cables to connect your mouse or keyboard either. You need to buy an new one.

As for the camera and speakers they seem to be exactly the same as the older chuwi and iwork8. Nothing to talk home about. Check this review for more information
Screen.
The screen of this device is like much other 8 inch windows tablets. an 1280 x 800 IPS screen. however. this screen is definitely less then its competitor iwork8. It has an clear yellow tint if you hold it next to the cube iwork8.

The yellow at the top is the chuwi plus.

Because of this. the cube iwork8 is also brighter.
Battery life.
For this I’ve made an new test benchmark myself.

This test goes as follows, The tablet is charged to 100% battery and the latest version of chrome is opened along with task manager and Batterymon.  Youtube replay will replay the nyan cat video for aslong as it can. meanwhile every 10 or so seconds. an log is updated on the device to keep track of the current battery percentage. The screen is set on about half of the brightness or an bit lower or higher matching the previous tested tablet as good as possible. The CPU most of the time seems to get around 12% usage.

The following are the results.

I think playing video for about 4 to almost 5 hours. is an pretty good result. You can see the plus model does have the best time versus battery capacity ratio.
Performance.
The performance is actually pretty disappointing. The flash storage. which is very important in devices like this. Is about HALF *click* the speed of the original model and the iwork8. This means programs and windows will load noticeably slower, 

The CPU is the same model as the one on the iwork8 and therefore has almost the same performance.

Its strange to see the Vi8 with the older CPU getting the best scores. Because the base clock GHZ is lower as the new CPU’s.

For the WiFi I found out the speed is very variable from about 35 to 72 Mbits per second. As long as you are in the range of your WiFi router. It should be good. However I found that range to be quite disappointing. It only barely reaches 1 floor higher before losing connection on the 3th floor.

Using the Chuwi Vi8 Plus
Using the Chuwi Vi8 Plus starts out very nice. The default language is English and the setup asks if you want to change it at the very first time you boot up your device. Its very easy to setup and doesn’t come with any bloatware at all. Just an link to an website.

Connecting this device to your screen could turn this into an small desktop computer. Like the rival tablets. However with USB C and without an OTG cable. You are forced using Bluetooth to connect your mouse and keyboard to your tablet. I’ve found my keyboards not working properly and I’m not jet sure if this is the fault of windows 10 or the Chuwi hardware. Like you can see in the video above. my keyboard strokes had some delay and seem to “hang” sending the same character over and over again.  The tablet however did NOT lag. It had no performance trouble looking at task manager. its purely the Bluetooth.  The yellow tint on the screen is not something that would turn me down from buying this tablet because you wont notice until you hold it next to another tablet.

The tablet does feel an bit warmer as the others holding in the hand, But nothing special or extreme. In my next review I might temperature test on all devices and check for sure. Be sure to read next time 😉

Overall using this tablet feels pretty solid because of the battery and easy setup. This is an device any user can handle unlike the iwork8 witch came in Chinese and had problems changing language.

But the downsides of this device make me rate this an average

6.5/10 

You can buy the tablet around $91 here: Chuwi Vi8 Plus.

[Russ Dyer]

same wifi drops on my Later 64 Bit model with blue usb port. Ended up getting a usb ac600 wifi adapter which works well.