Search Results for 'cloning'

[Chupa]

maybe you are doing it wrong, I never had a problem, why not try it my way:

 

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

Lots of Jumpers having problem cloning the emmc to the ssd. (never the ones who were s***t and got a 3s what has a 256GB SSD already installed)
That might because you do an inside cloning.

Try an outside cloning via the USB3 port and an adapter, you might have more luck this way. I never clone inside – never had a cloning problem.
Afterwards change the boot sequence in the bios to the USB drive.
Should work OK.
The rest is explained over and over here in the forum.

If the Jumper still gives you trouble, you can just velcro the little case with the ssd inside to the backside of your screen and boot from your USB SSD.

hope that answers your question Pascal.

The case is around 6 Euro plus shipping
USB 3.0 to M.2 NGFF B Key SSD Adapter Card External Enclosure Case Cover Box

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

migration is simple, put ssd in an usb adapter and connect to pc,  install the mini tool program, start, choose mini tool.

click on migrate OS to SSD choose the new drive, if it does not show up format with ntfs first and try again.

click on the Apply checkmark (top left)

click OK to pre-selected choices.

The pc might to reboot and finish the copy in dos mode (automatically)

just wait for a time and the cloning is done.

stick the ssd in computer, go into bios and change from emmc to ssd boot sequence.

If it boots remove boot partition from emmc and use emmc as backup storage.

If things fail, clone ssd back to emmc, change bios boot order and do whatever feels right. Beer, hammer, window or just live with it.

picture shows the UI where my 256 is cloned onto a 512GB

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

OK Kingspec 512GB came, sadly other seller did not ship the usb3 to m.2 adapter, but I ordered also a m.2 to SATA adapter and I have enough USB3 SATA enclosures, so I put the 512GB into the SATA adapter and the SATA adapter into the USB 3 enclosure.

Used minitool partition Wizard free to clone the 256GB onto the 512GB and now I have 270GB free and not below 40GB.
Cloning took less than one hour including swapping everything. The 512GB booted without any bios visitations.

My USB3 to SATA to M.2 combination maxed out at 130 RW and not a over 500 RW, maybe that is the max what the USB 3 port can provide, will check when USB3 to m.2 adapter arrives.

How does the Kingspec 512GB compare to the fast Foresee 256GB what is build in my Jumper 3S?

Nearly identical and that tested with a half full drive what normally is a bit slower than a near empty drive.
524 / 520 to 556 / 507

what I noticed is that the Kingspec 512GB has much less parts on it than pictured on the Kingspec website. You just see the upper part of the card on my photo, but there is nothing below, so 2 big chips and a lot of little things and that´s it. I decided against getting a short 2240 512GB because I read that Chris has some speed problems with the shorter Kingspec 512GB, so I hoped that more space to mount things results in hopefully more speed and I was right in that assumption.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[lito]

friends, I will share my experience about it, I took a couple of months with the v.4 and all good until I decided to improve it with an SSD, Kingpec brand of 128 GB and that’s when the headache began …

I will tell you what works for me, exploring among many possible solutions:

1.- install the ssd

2.- go to the disk manager (right button in the start menu)

3.- make the creation of the volume on the disk ssd (this is very simple, they go to the disk ssd as it appears in the image and they give it to create a new volume …. then accept, accept and accept.

4.- Once the disk is created, it will be recognized by the operating system and the UEFI, from now on we will have two options, the first one is with macrium, we can make a cloning towards our ssd (my favorite) and the other option is perform the installation of windows 10 from scratch in our SSD (step 5).

5.- to install the operating system we must create a USB bootable unit and start it from the UEFI, as usual, if you decide to install windows 8.1 or lower must perform the process of the bootable unit with the rufus program, what we should have in account with this, is to place the option of “partition gpt for uefi”. if we do not do this, windows will not start.

6.- So far I am using windows 10, because when changing the O.S. I still can not resolve the issue with the drivers since the touch panel, the screen and the sound stops working. (So ​​far, I managed to rescue the drivers of windows 10 and reinstall them in windows 8, but windows crashea.

I hope you serve this info.

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[lito]

friends, I will share my experience about it, I took a couple of months with the v.4 and all good until I decided to improve it with an SSD, Kingpec brand of 128 GB and that’s when the headache began …

I will tell you what works for me, exploring among many possible solutions:

1.- install the ssd

2.- go to the disk manager (right button in the start menu)

3.- make the creation of the volume on the disk ssd (this is very simple, they go to the disk ssd as it appears in the image and they give it to create a new volume …. then accept, accept and accept.

4.- Once the disk is created, it will be recognized by the operating system and the UEFI, from now on we will have two options, the first one is with macrium, we can make a cloning towards our ssd (my favorite) and the other option is perform the installation of windows 10 from scratch in our SSD (step 5).

5.- to install the operating system we must create a USB bootable unit and start it from the UEFI, as usual, if you decide to install windows 8.1 or lower must perform the process of the bootable unit with the rufus program, what we should have in account with this, is to place the option of “partition gpt for uefi”. if we do not do this, windows will not start.

6.- So far I am using windows 10, because when changing the O.S. I still can not resolve the issue with the drivers since the touch panel, the screen and the sound stops working. (So ​​far, I managed to rescue the drivers of windows 10 and reinstall them in windows 8, but windows crashea.

I hope you serve this info.

 

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[Ralph McIntosh]

Howdy

bought a 128 GB Transcend SSD and used Transcend Scope to clone the MMC. Backup patition of te MMC wa snot cloned but that was clar.

After cloning automaticly the F7 shut down and after new start it booted from SSD, no issues.

But now the MMC is missing. If I use windows drive tool I can see it but it is offline due to a signature conflict???

I there a way to activate the MMC to use it as storage space.

[GarethRossUK]

I’ll be uploading it soon trying to find a host which is fast but also no single file size limit I’d like to upload as a single file. The clone created not a single ISO but a folder with some files inside. I can only assume this is correctly created by FileZilla as it passed verification.

 

What I did notice between the clean install vs factory install at least for me is that with the factory install I never found the USB port on the right side to be faster than USB 2.0 while the port on the left is functioning as full speed USB 3.0 this was always the case even before cloning I’d only seen full speed from this port when it was on the clean install from the Windows 10 support page installation. Why is that?

At least I know its not a faulty port but probably a driver issue, perhaps if someone can please copy all the USB drivers from a clean installation I can then check against what I’ve got.

[GarethRossUK]

While I also remember I had a nightmare with the setup till I tried this!

CloneZilla: Writing the clone to the SSD be sure the drive you want to send the clone to is internal if it is external I kept having it get stuck and lock up. As soon as I moved what I’m cloning to as the internal and cloning from as the external I didn’t get stuck.

To create the ISO can I write to any storage or does it have to be an SSD?

I do see a ZIP option? I would only recommend clonezilla any other software had failed me at different stages and clonezilla is the only one to have worked for me. <b>AOMEI Partition Assistant</b> is what I used to extend the partition by merging after the clone was written to the designated drive.

[GarethRossUK]

I got the clone working!

It’s a factory image probably the same method on a smaller scale at the factory. Complete as if it were out of the box installation!

This image is formated for a 128GB but with the correct partitioning software you’ll be able to merge patitions to recover and use the full space available to any larger SSD you wish to use.

CloneZilla bootable image via a livelinux USB thumb drive.

2242 M.2 Enclosure any even very cheap will work but check reviews before buying.

The clone only takes minutes to write from the clone, I tried other cloning software and only had problems CloneZilla worked first try no errors except one that never repeats itself and can be ignored just by clicking restart. Even the factory origonal non cloned SSD had this error on first boot after a clone was made from this!

Now I plan to release the image but I’m not sure of a few things.

How to release a shared cloned image of this?

Will the image contain the Windows OEM Key?

Is it legal to share?

Can I compress this image to about 22GB the used Windows 10 space and all the empty space be compressed or will it be stuck at 128GB ?

What’s a reilable host to upload the origonal image too? I’ve got a dependable connection I can upload 5GB and hour with so hope this isn’t any bigger than 22GB and I can get it online before tomorrow.

 

Questions that you may have:

Is it safe to use? Yes it’s nothing more than what you will find when first switching on the F6 Pro for the first time.

Whats included : Windows 10 Home version 1703 uses OEM key, from BIOS?(I believe)

Language files are as they were out of the box! I found the OS install from the support tool were missing most language options found in the included setup.

Drivers? these are as they were none are updated and chinese language files are still present for example the Magic Mic and intel 615 graphics driver is from a year ago! Update this as soon as you start.

Can this image be used for larger SSD? Yes this is exactly what I did but you will need an extra step after the setup process is completed.

Does this restore tablet mode? Yes it does even durring the initial Windows 10 setup process this function is seen working.

Does the System screen in control pannel contain the origonal information? Yes this is recovered you will have all the support and logo information.

 

[GarethRossUK]

It’s not the drivers but it could be the configuration within the registry.

 

I’ve found a possible way to clone the factory installation of Win 10 OS from the new F6 Pro I’ve got here, clonezilla has a bootable image that is designed for cloning so if I boot with clonezilla on the new F6 Pro and overwrite the external 128GB Teclast SSD with the data of the new F6 Pro SSD data I should be able to create a compressed zip file containing the factory data. This will allow us all to clone the factory install files back to the SSD that is missing the boot data and all problems will be resolved.

 

Now that’s if this enclosure works I can have a working image file available for everyone tonight. I thought I’d have to buy two new enclosures but after finding clonezilla I’d only need one enclosure and if the one I’ve got doesn’t work I’ve found one on Amazon that is confirmed by others to work for cloning bootable Win 10 images.

[GarethRossUK]

I’m wondering can I clone the SSD from the new unit that hasn’t had it’s preferences set so it’s fresh out of the factory, would it matter which type of storage it was cloned to? I’ve got a spare 200GB MicroSD card can I clone an SSD to a MicroSD and then clone from the MicroSD back to a different SSD if I got a working bootable clone would this possibly work?

I would release this image file public as it’s out of the box so to speak factory cloned image. A clean factory clone would be an asset for future upgrades I believe we are missing something important. Searching for this specific device from device manager I find a only others having a problem without a solution. I still think its a power setting but until I or anyone can access a factory copy of the Windows 10 install used we are unable to check.

Did anyone else find in System < Control panel – that information is missing like the Teclast Logo and support information?

The Windows 10 key is in the bios, I can only assume they do cloning at the factory too. The enclosure however I’ve got at the moment doesn’t appear to be creating successfully working Windows 10 images but I can’t keep spending on trying to find one that would work. Also for others to apply this clone you’d need an enclosure to clone onto the storage.

[GarethRossUK]

I too have this same problem after moving to a new hard drive to increase capacity. I did a clean install via the USB tool for Win 10 install, I tried cloning the hard drive and no tools worked I got close with one install but ended up with a blue-screen.

Now I do have another F6 Pro but this unit is for sale and I don’t want to enter the setup process otherwise the new owner wouldn’t be buying a new notebook from me. I could find a way to try cloning again from this new drive it will be a fully clean image. I don’t know how the right way to clone as I didn’t have any luck with it before which is why I resulted in using the install tool from the Microsoft website. I tried three different cloning programs and the closest I got to a working clone still resulted in a blue-screen and wouldn’t proceed.

I can only think this like the speaker issue is a power setting. Anyone with a working unit if they can check the power setting for the base within device manager. The screen is power as D0 which is always on while the base is D3 which is off. Now I think the default for the base is what is behind this perhaps but I couldn’t find the power setting to change this in regedit. Since the screen still rotates but the keyboard being folded isn’t detected I think this is why this isn’t functioning. I may try this on the new unit to check but I’d rather wait to hear back from someone with a working unit already logged in and able to check the device manager for the base.

D3 = OFF

D0 = ON

Check anything you’d like in device manager for this

 

regedit – 5175D334-C371-4806-B3BA-71FD53C9258D – I think this is the directory but I dont see any power options. check this in the properties for the driver then property drop down list see driver key and power data.

Like I said I’m sure anyone who has this working probably sees the power data for the Kionix KXCJ9 3-Axis Base will probably confirm its D0 if its D3 even just after folding into tablet mode I would be surprised. Now how to clone the values for this if I am correct, since it isn’t in regedit unless elsewhere that wont be easy.

 

Now another way is if I find a way to make a fully clean and working clone we could all install from that and it would be like out of the box with the setup screen and languages ect.

[Chupa]

found this info on the ali kingspec reviews:

“SSD Capacity: 512GB

the seller told me the SSD uses Micron or Intel brand of NAND flash. In fact the SSD I received uses SpecTek brand of NAND flash. According to SpecTek NAND Flash Part Numbering System, Grade and Product Definition -AS = Full Spec for SSD (100%) -AL = Full Spec for USB/SD and low end SSD (100%) -AF = Full Spec for low end USB/SD (100%) -AR = Relaxed Spec (see Functional Density) -HP = Single Plane, half capacity -S5 = Partially tested, est yield of 50% -S7 = Partially tested, est yield of 70% -S8 = Partially tested, est yield of 80% Grades -AS and -AL NAND flash may be used for SSD. Grade -S8 should not be used for SSD. The SSD I received uses Grade -S8 NAND flash. SpecTek and Micron are two different brands, even though SpecTek is owned by Micron Technology, Inc. Micron Technology, Inc. uses SpecTek brand to market substandard products.”

***

“512GB
Be aware! This SSD has very low quality! Stay away if you are not restricted to use a M.2 2242 SSD. 1. The NAND is down-graded MLC NAND (Spectek S8 level), and shouldn’t be used for SSD. If you go to Spectek’s website and search for the package code, you will know. 2. The controller is MK8115 which also has a low quality. It doesn’t even support LDPC code so you need to expect a short lifespan of the SSD. As mentioned by another buyer, this controller is also unstable! Low-quality NAND + low-quality controller = very unreliable! The seller pays $2 for each “good” review. That’s how the rating becomes very high.”

***

“512 – Seems not compatible with Jumper EZBook 3 Pro. Cloning of EMMC took more than 20 hours and still unable to boot up. Clone possible only with a M.2 to USB 3.0 adaptor (30min). Transfer rate is only around 1mb/s and booting up is very slow. No response from Kingspec regarding this problem. Ho Kwok Weng”

***

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Young]

After clean wipe of the SSD and re-cloning of  windows 10 image from eMMC to SSD,  Bios detected and it worked.

 

Read Speed of  450 MB/s vs 170 MB/s.   OS is a bit faster.   I still get  lagging texting when typing in words on YouTube, search box.   I guess just limitation of Jumper EZbook?   🙁