I’ve read all pages of this thread and I still can’t get my Hi10 working. I have a SINGLE Boot version with blue usb 3.0 port. I can boot any linux distro with nomodeset without onboard WiFi working (I changed everything I could in BIOS, got files from hadess github) and I managed to boot twice Ubuntu with i915.modeset=1 instead ofquiet splash and I couldn’t boot it anymore even doing everything the same way (one boot with nomodeset and then boot with i915.modeset=1). I’ve tried to update i915 drivers while using nomodeset (and using USB WiFi) but it said that they were up to date. I wanted to edit /etc/modprobe.d/i915-kms.conf but I don’t have this file.
Anyone mind helping me?
What happens when you try to boot from a Live-USB with Linux Mint 18 Cinnamon 64bit? That is the version most people have had some success booting with.
I’ve read all pages of this thread and I still can’t get my Hi10 working. I have a SINGLE Boot version with blue usb 3.0 port. I can boot any linux distro with nomodeset without onboard WiFi working (I changed everything I could in BIOS, got files from hadess github) and I managed to boot twice Ubuntu with i915.modeset=1 instead of quiet splash and I couldn’t boot it anymore even doing everything the same way (one boot with nomodeset and then boot with i915.modeset=1). I’ve tried to update i915 drivers while using nomodeset (and using USB WiFi) but it said that they were up to date. I wanted to edit /etc/modprobe.d/i915-kms.conf but I don’t have this file.
Anyone mind helping me? 🙁
Had my Tbook 11 updated and WiFi dissapeared. My bet is that since it’s a USB device some deepsleep causes the USB to go off and thus the WiFi is not detected anymore or something like this but… I have no way to fix it or test this asumption. A WiFi dongle over USB works… but I want my internal WiFi back!
Any help will be appreciated! Thanks!
Yes managed to do it last night. Downloaded to a USB stick and created a bootable drive from the iso with Rufus (http://rufus.akeo.ie/), pointed the installer towards my micro SD card and then after the first stage of install (purple screen) unplugged the USB on the orange screen and plugged into power and left for a few hours as seemed to be slow on the orange screen. Been working well today, am now having wifi issues though but going through drivers at the moment (was working fine earlier). Suggestions of driver version greatly received… If any of above is unclear let me know and I can try and expand.
Hello, thanks for your answer.
You have a X80 Pro then?
The driver where you found them?
Maybe you want a backup of the original drivers of the wifi of my tablet?
Yes managed to do it last night.
Downloaded to a USB stick and created a bootable drive from the iso with Rufus (http://rufus.akeo.ie/), pointed the installer towards my micro SD card and then after the first stage of install (purple screen) unplugged the USB on the orange screen and plugged into power and left for a few hours as seemed to be slow on the orange screen.
Been working well today, am now having wifi issues though but going through drivers at the moment (was working fine earlier). Suggestions of driver version greatly received…
If any of above is unclear let me know and I can try and expand.
Buy a micro sma laptop antenna for mini pcie cards, cut the plug and solder that to the pcb wifi connector. You can find them on ebay and they have a much larger area for improved signal. Make sure you place the antenna near the top. on the metal rear housing is not a good idea, the metal alloy inhibits the signal and results will be poor. Or find a TP link micro USB wireless AC adaptor, open it up and remove the PCB and solder it to the inside of the USB 2 port.
That’s exactly what I ordered 🙂
Buy a micro sma laptop antenna for mini pcie cards, cut the plug and solder that to the pcb wifi connector. You can find them on ebay and they have a much larger area for improved signal. Make sure you place the antenna near the top. on the metal rear housing is not a good idea, the metal alloy inhibits the signal and results will be poor.
Or find a TP link micro USB wireless AC adaptor, open it up and remove the PCB and solder it to the inside of the USB 2 port.
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Tablets: Hi12 dual boot & MediaPad M5
Phone: Xiaomi Redmi Note 5 (Global ROM)
PC: Dell G3 15 1050 Ti undervolted & repaste
Desktop PC: AMD Ryzen 1700, 16GB RAM, 512GB 960 Evo, Gigabyte 1060 6GB
Hello Everyone,
Hi,
After having the read Chris’s Review, by the way I completely admire his work, because of him gave me the courage to buy this tablet. I don’t like Chinese tablets after a bad experience with a Onda a few years back. I previously owned a surface 3 atom x7 notebook and was very disappointed by its performance , SSD and touch screen glitches. I bought my cube i7 book last week. In almost everyway it is better than the surface 3. There are 4 problems I have with this tablet and I found a solution to 3 of them.
- Battery life
- Heat output
- Palm Rejection
- The Depth of the USB-C and usb 3 Ports.
I will address 1 and 2 now as they are the same solution. I have extended the battery life of the notebook significantly thus curing the system by these steps. The Core M has a relatively low clock 900MHz. It does have turbo boost which gives it almost a 40% boost. This boost comes at a cost of heat and also battery. I did two things. I used the Intel extreme tuning utility. And I configured the power control of the CPU via power options in windows.
- Download and install Intel extreme tuning utility.
- I made these adjustments aka undervolting and disabled a few boost features. (NOTE You cannot disable Intel Turbo Boost Technology I dont know why i have a workaround for this i will show later.) I changed the Processor Core Voltage Offset to Minus -70.00000000 mV which also changes the Voltage of the Cache to match automatically. Then I Disabled The Boost Short Power Max. I then Changed The Turbo Boost max to 4.000W and the Turbo Boost Time windows to 4.00 Seconds. After that on the side panel choose Graphics. For the Processor Graphics Voltage Offset i set mine to Minus -72.0000000 mV.[(Note the Mv Undervolting you choose varies alot. Each cpu and gpu is different. Even the Same models different vary. You must find how much you can undervolt. you might go further than me or less than me its a lotto. You will know that you went too far when the tablet hangs or shutdown. But don’t worry after you turn it off and on intel will have detected the crash and reset the defaults and just keep experimenting until you found your sweet spot.) After you have done these settings i recommend a stress test. At least 20 min of each cpu stress, memory stress, and cpu stress. If it goes without a crash your settings should be good. This alone will increase battery life and less heat. The stress test is on the left bar of the program.
- Now i wanted to go further. So what i did is i right clicked the battery bar on the bottom and clicked power options. on the balanced power plan click change plan settings. after that click change advanced power settings. Click Processor Power Management and then extend the system cooling policy. Change Plugged in to passive. After that hit apply. Now in the same menu of Processor Management find maximum power state. Change on battery to 65% Which after i did my experiments and found that the windows kernel doesn’t let the cpu go over 0.89 GHZ at this percent which means it is a little below the 900mhz clock, the cpu original clock. Thus in practice means that Intel turbo boost not kick in meaning its disabled. For Plugged in i used 85% for less heat. (Some additional knowledge about this option in most desktops if you want to easily disable turbo boost just adjust the percent of the maximum processor state to 99% It won’t go over its own clock BUT This Doesn’t work on outcore M for some reason so i overrided by finding the sweet spot for this maximum power state percentage to 65% which doesn’t make the processor go over 0.89GHZ.) After this setting i stressed it for 30 min. The CPU never went over 0.89 and the temps toped out at 59c . After that i opened the game dota 2 with native resolution the cpu package heat topped at 83c degrees (Due to GPU adding more heat.) The game was for over 50 mins.
After this adjustment i charged the battery to full and tested these modifications with these settings.
I did a video loop test of 1080p of star trek looping. With 25% brightness and hit the battery saver, which is available if you hit the battery icon on the bottom. Wifi off
The video ran for 9hrs 12 Min and battery Left at 2%
The next Day,
I did a day of websurfing and office working you know my typical day with word power point and Youtube. With 25% brightness and hit the battery saver, wifi on. I did have a 5 min break two times and a 40 min break to lunch which i put the tablet to sleep and took this time out of the test as it doesn’t count. I used my smartphone stopwatch.
I got 7hrs 34 Min before the battery hit 6% which i had to go out somewhere.
I consider this to be a complete success.
As for my Final problem I noticed that my cables that plugin to the usb-c and usb 3 ports fall out too easily after further inspection it seems the ports are quite deep within the metal chassis. Not very deep but not on the of the chassis edge like surface tablets. I didnt notice this until recently. I dont know if it came that way or if i some how pushed them in and will they get worse or they were already pushed in like that since I got it and will always be like this. Its not a real biggy. I just cutout some of the usb 3 and usb-c adapter cable rubber grip heads for more clearance and its fine. So I have this question anyone else experience this problem? And for those who are good techies who have opened this tablet up Is it possible they can move in at all if yes would it get worse?
I hope you found my guide useful fellow i7 book users. If anyone could tell me about these port depth issue would appreciate it alot.
Good Day.
After you used the Windows disk manager to shrink the partition you should have “unallocated” space as in this pic (black bar colored rectangle to the right): http://i.imgur.com/bc2vkK5.png
Then you should save and exit and boot into Linux to run Gparted. If you created something with that unused space in Windows, go back and delete it. It should be unallocated, which is an easy way to locate it later with Gparted. That’s the method I’ve always used… also because if you subsequently perform a Linux install the installation program will detect/locate that unused space and allow you to install there “alongside” your other OS(es), aka multi-boot. So in other words, if you want to install Linux in that space you don’t have to run Gparted at all because the installation program will do it for you. Just run the Linux Mint install from your Live-USB boot after having freed up that space using the Windows 10 drive manager.
Btw, today I had something got corrupted on my HD, and LM18 would not boot after the Grub menu choice, displaying errors, and prompting me to run “fsck” (like Windows chkdsk command). I ran it, and accepted all defaults and answered yes to all prompts, and it fixed everything and I was able to reboot and everything seems to now work OK again. Just FYI, it’s always good to keep a Live-USB handy that has WiFi working if you ever need to get internet access to get help resolving some problem. I didn’t know what ‘fsck’ and the error messages meant at first but I muddled my way through it.
Hi,
To answer your questions best I can having used both.
1. Yes both charge when in use, but if you game and have the brightness at 100% the Atom will loose charge. THe i7 Book charges much quicker via Type-C mine can charge at 14 Watts and very quickly.
2. Yes it can from the MicroUSB and dock ports.
3. It’s not much lower 1920 x 1200 on the iwork10 Vs 1920 x 1080 is barely noticeable the difference. The i7 Book screen is one of the best 1080p panels I’ve seen and it was good enough to be used in the Microsoft Surface Pro 2. It’s also much brighter with better colors I feel.
4. Its more than twice as fast the i7 book, the Atom X5 Z8300 is much slower but it can handle light tasks. Edge works well for youtube. But if you plan to use Chrome, the Atom’s don’t handle it very well and you get stutters with 1080p 60fps videos in Chrome. 4k clips in Chrome is very choppy on the Atom.
On the otherhand the Core M3, plays 4k Youtube or 1080p 60fps in Chrome with ease. Also the dual band wifi is much quicker and BT mice and keyboards don’t slow wifi like on the iwork10 with it’s wireless N realtek. I have tried to use a Z8300 as my main device and it works well, but when I need that extra bit of multitasking and power I always end up going back to a Core M tablet.
Chris | Admin
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Hey Guys, I thought i would write up a tutorial on how i did the installation of Windows 10 on my Chuwi Hi8 Tablet, Please note that i do not take responsibility if break/damage your tablet. Please note I have upgraded Windows 8.1 to Windows 10 in order to Activate my product key thats aligned to my Microsoft Account, once the upgrade is complete and the product key has been activated it was then a clean installation was performed, I strongly suggest to upgrade first before performing the clean installation. I hope this helps 
——————————————– Hardware Wise: OTG Cable 3 Port USB Hub 8Gb USB Flash Drive (fat32) USB Mouse & Keyboard USB Wireless Dongle 6Gb Minimum HDD on the Tablet is required ——————————————– Software Wise: Windows 10 Media Creation Tool – Download the correct version suited to your PC not the Tablet https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 Rufus – create bootable USB flash drives for both 32 & 64 Bit OS’s https://rufus.akeo.ie/ Double Driver – Add this to the Bootable USB with your http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/double_driver.html Chuwi Hi8 Win 8.1 Drivers Doubledriver (82.7 MiB) & Chuwi Hi8 Touch installer (71.3 KiB) http://techtablets.com/downloads-drivers-roms/ ——————————————– The Upgrade: (Upgrades the OS from 8.1 to 10 with an Activated licence): Download Windows 10 Home 32-bit version (Supported for you Tablet) via the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool, this may take a while depending on your internet connection. Whilst your waiting for this to download, have a look at how much space is left on your Tablet as you will be needing at least 6gb in order to install the upgrade, for me i didnt have anything important on the device so i decided to run the recovery and bring the device back to factory standard and making sure it was activated under my Microsoft Account once again without doing all the updates. Soon as the ISO has been downloaded, Plug in your USB to your PC and run the Rufus app on your PC selecting the Drive that your USB stick is using then click on the small image on far right bottom of the page that looks like hard drive with a CD on top and wait about 10-30 mins for this to complete. Once completed, fire up your tablet, plug in the OTG adapter and plug in your USB hub with your keyboard/mouse & USB connected. Once in Windows, go to Windows Explorer and run the Windows installer and follow the prompts, you do not have to download the additional updates just yet as this will contribute to additional space to be taken from your tablet. Keep clicking next and then let the Tablet take its course in the upgrade procedure, this may take a while to do… Soon as you have logged into Windows 10, you will need to check your Product Key has been activated if it is your good to go. ——————————————– Clean Installation: (Clean installation, Deleted Partitions Edition only if Windows 10 is activated): Power off your device Connect the USB Installer, Wifi dongle, USB keyboard and mouse to your USB Hub/OTG Cable to the Device. Power on your device and hold down the “ESC” Key when you see the CHUWI Logo, this will take you to another menu then select “” Choose your Language / Region then click next, then the Product key screen may appear, if so then click skip. For Clean installation click “Custom Installation”, this will enable you to select the partition and wipe it or otherwise do what i did and delete all the partitions and create a new one (this will give you a total of 29.8gb), the installation process will take about 30+ mins to install. Once the install has been completed Windows, Log into Windows using your Windows Account, then run Windows Updates and reboot. When you have rebooted, Run “Double Drivers” application from your USB and then select the folder “Chuwi Hi8 Win 8.1 Drivers Doubledriver” and then click on Restore, during this process Windows will display notifications asking you to install drivers that have not been signed by Microsoft for Windows 10, just keep clicking install and once complete, then reboot the Tablet and then run the windows update to check your drivers once again.. And your done! ——————————————–
??? please help me with bluetooth i nver get lucky inztalling almost all available driver
I had read bits of these 14 pages before – when someone linked to a particular discussion – now I just read 1-14. Wow. Clarifications re. just-acquired dual-boot Chuwi Hi12:
- Changing “quiet splash” to “nomodeset” causes a verbose boot and something like a 800×600 configuration – the reason for the change was so that the settings from a USB boot could be modified?
- I then read that “nomodeset” blocks the functioning of screen rotation and touchscreen – is that correct?
- I read that rather than “nomodeset” one might use “video=1920×1200@60” – does that also allow settings changes to persist when booting from USB – and make screen rotation and touchscreen possible?
- Does the driver change to get wifi working require Linux Mint (or other Linux) to be installed or can it be loaded from the USB stick?
- If I use gparted to free 20GB from the 44.12GB NTFS partition and set it as ext4, are the driver changes, etc. to be saved there?
- I have a 16GB USB 3.0 small stick that I could dedicate to the OS and related files (e.g. apps) and a 32GB Class 10 UHS-I microsd for portable data – what is the advantage of loading Linux Mint on the tablet – speed, to free up the USB port, or ??.
- I’m still unclear about the resolution to the touchscreen challenge – is that still unresolved?
- I don’t see an place in the Linux Mint 18 Control Center to toggle-on screen rotation … am I looking in the wrong place?
Thanks! David
1-3. I don’t know; ask @Destry or @Jesus via private message and/or here
4. Should work on USB if you have a live-USB stick with enough space reserved as “persistent” when you setup/burned the USB stick (btw, which app did you end up using to create it?)
5. What I’ve done is use the Windows partition manager to “shrink” the Windows partition to free up space, then Gparted to create a new partition and format that space as the default Ext4. This partition would be chosen for installation (where everything gets stored) once you decide to install to HD, if that’s your choice.
6. Yes, speed primarily, and reliability. Eg., bump USB stick and it unmounts in middle of using it. Over-use of removables wears out your connectors faster… they become looser, etc.
7. Don’t know what you mean. Changing screen resolution is simple and has nothing to do with the touchscreen driver. In Chris’ LM 18 video he changed the screen resolution during live-boot.
8. Linux, except for Ubuntu Touch is not explicitly made for tablets (yet) and I don’t think there is any such control. If you go look at the custom distro that @jesus created (XJubuntu) you’ll see he did lots of tweaks to get things like screen rotation and on screen keyboard working better/well. There may be some other Linux distro’s that do some of these things. I don’t know. I just re-read @jesus’ page here where he said more things work and are improved in the 4.4.6 kernel (LM18 uses 4.4.0). What I would do is this: 1) upgrade the LM 18 kernel to the latest kernel (4.7) and then if the WiFi is still not working then 2) build and install the Realtek rtl8723bs driver. You should be able to do both of those as a test even from a persistent USB live-boot, before you decide to install. Then from there, you can try to figure out how to get other stuff working. See @Destry’s thread on the LM forum for how-to’s.
AnonymousInactive
I had read bits of these 14 pages before – when someone linked to a particular discussion – now I just read 1-14. Wow.
Clarifications re. just-acquired dual-boot Chuwi Hi12:
- Changing “quiet splash” to “nomodeset” causes a verbose boot and something like a 800×600 configuration – the reason for the change was so that the settings from a USB boot could be modified?
- I then read that “nomodeset” blocks the functioning of screen rotation and touchscreen – is that correct?
- I read that rather than “nomodeset” one might use “video=1920×1200@60” – does that also allow settings changes to persist when booting from USB – and make screen rotation and touchscreen possible?
- Does the driver change to get wifi working require Linux Mint (or other Linux) to be installed or can it be loaded from the USB stick?
- If I use gparted to free 20GB from the 44.12GB NTFS partition and set it as ext4, are the driver changes, etc. to be saved there?
- I have a 16GB USB 3.0 small stick that I could dedicate to the OS and related files (e.g. apps) and a 32GB Class 10 UHS-I microsd for portable data – what is the advantage of loading Linux Mint on the tablet – speed, to free up the USB port, or ??.
- I’m still unclear about the resolution to the touchscreen challenge – is that still unresolved?
- I don’t see an place in the Linux Mint 18 Control Center to toggle-on screen rotation … am I looking in the wrong place?
Thanks! David
Well… seems to be a little problem.
In android, when screen off the operating red light on the keyboard stays on and there is a considerable battery drain during night. I think that is the keyboard because wifi was off and previous keyboard has no night battery drain…
Same problem with a USB small pen which is connected to tablet and powered on even with tablet off.
Maybe some settings in bios could solve both problem disabling power to usb and or pogo pin while off or while screen off??
Thanks
Try this page from @Destry who has Linux Mint 18 working on his Hi12: https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=223426&p=1178079#p1178213
F-7 key gets into boot menu to boot from live usb.
Also, by clicking on @Destry ‘s name on the LM forum you can follow his other posts on how he got WiFi and other things working. cheers, -Brad-
[EDIT] Quickref: his Wifi post is here: https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=223722&p=1178498#p1183902
