Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[chacuavip10]

I just reinstall window 10 Pro (USB boot), but then i realise that it didnt recognize the intergrated wifi and some other thing. I just download the 5.9 Gb firmware on the Cube download, how can i install it?

[Daniel]

Ahh, OK I think I understand now. Unfortunately, the usb-head you see is just an empty “frame”. It has no function on the wifi-card what so ever.

[Jakob Schmidt Rasmussen]

..

as i understand it wont work this ac600 wifi dongle, after you have peeled the materiel off and resoldered the pins to an old usb cable.

that old usb cable ‘ sometimes there is some inner cirquit on on the cable at the head under the platic..

you could try to take the original usb-head from the ac600 i can see in the picture laying solo, and see if it will work if you connect the wires to the orig.pins there.(to conclude if the board is fried, or its down to the wires, or perhaps the used usb-cable that is the corpriate & the sinner for not working.)

 

 

[Daniel]

Great tip, l´ll make sure to try it later

Me on the other hand, has really hit a speed-bump with the usb-wifi-thing. I wanted to try to solder on a regular usb-cable to the dongle first, just to try how it worked (see picture). And for some reason, when I plug it in the PC, I get a error message saying that this usb-device is malfunctioning and does not work.

But I have tried to do the same thing on 2 flash drives and a crappy no name usb wifi card. And them all work flawlessly. And it makes me really frustrated because I dont know what the diffrence is. And I dont know where I might get some help to solve it either.

Does someone know why it doesnt work or maybe give me a link to a forum that is more focused on electronics and soldering?

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[robert wisdom]

Hey guys, I have no problems with my hi8 pro.  It works great.  Its a little slower than I thought it would be.  I have 12 or so tablets, this being the slowest, up to a surface pro3. I have a teclast x98 pro, onda v919 3g dual os, dell venue 11 pro 7130, lenovo miix 2, surface 3 (non pro), 2 2013 nexus 7s, 1 2012 nexus 7, bestbuy unbranded ub-15ms10.  Bought most broken and fixed them.  They all work perfectly and I fine tune their performance and operating systems, most have 2 or more OSes.

Anyway, I’ve dealt with a lot of bioses and installation of operating systems.  This one is no different.  The files I downloaded from the chuwi forum contain the bios.  You don’t need to ship it to china, lol.  You do need an otg type c cable and a wired or wireless keyboard and mouse.  I use a wireless keyboard and mouse, I have tried several, they all work, they all have usb dongles.  I’ve tried a microsoft set, logitech, tronsmart air mouse/keyboard combo, cheap chinese touchpad/keyboard combo (about the size of my palm.  I haven’t tried a wired version.  OK, so you connect the otg, then I connect a usb 3.0 4 port powered hub (that actually charges the tablet too) to the otg cable, then the wirless dongle, then the usb flash drive you are going to create.  You are going to make a DOS bootable usb flash drive and put the files contained in the download that pertain to the bios and its installation.  Then you’ll run the command to initiate the bios flash from within dos.  You need to set the usb drive to boot in the bios as well.  You will be able to enter, and navigate in the bios with the keyboard.  After you upgrade the bios, you will install the intel flash tools and flash the android rom through the flash tool, selecting the json file provided (which will provide the necessary instructions for the intel flash tool to flash the android rom and write the partition table and flash the recovery, kernel, bootloader, etc.

Beware, you are going to loose all data that is currently on the tablet when you convert over to dual boot.  After you successfully flash the android rom (which has to be flashed first, because its efi loader isn’t recognized by windows, i.e., if you flash windows first, then android, the android flashing will just wipe windows out) you will install windows with the provided image in the file.  Basically its windows pe, with a windows wim contained within.  The windows pe installation basically has a script contained within it that essentially gives the windows installation instruction to NOT format or overwrite the android partitions contained at the (virtual) beginning of the disk.  After that, you’re done.  There is a tool in both android and windows that will allow you to boot into the other OS.  You will also have the option after the initial bios screen to select the os you want to boot into.

Any question, let me know.  Its pretty self-explanatory.  I’ve help a lot of others within other forums for installation and configuration of the other various devices I have.  I have to admin one thing though, the surface 3 pro, dual booted with the march 1, 2016 release of remix OS is amazing!  Its super fast, everything works, rotation, touch, wifi 2.4 and 5.0, the correct resolution, the keyboard and mouse, the battery meter (acpi), the video drivers, sound, bluetooth, the frickin stylus, the windows button on the display, the sd card slot, display turns off when I close the cover.  I have root, the playstore, select-able OS at boot and the installation was a breeze, just download the file in windows and run it, the executable does everything after you select a couple of options.  I’m getting close to 170k on antutu without any tuning of the kernel or drives or even a swap.  Its blazingly fast!  Kodi on it is virtually instantaneous when selecting items and launching movies or tv shows or whatever.  I do have 150 mb connection though and can easily attain maximum throughput with the 5.0 ac band.

This particular tablet was obtained to geekbuying.com.  They had a 1 week sale a few weeks ago and I bought it for 78.99.  I thought it was a good deal, and being that I have other cherry trail tablets, I thought it must be much faster than its baytrail-t counterpart.  Well, I’ve pretty much squeezed every mhz out of it and its barely 5% faster than the previous baytrail gen in the cpu department.  The gpu is, well, much faster, about 40-45% faster than the baytrail version, but I’m really looking for cpu performance because I don’t play games on devices with integrated gpus, or laptops in general.  I have 15 or so desktops, all very fast, and I prefer to game on them on my 12 foot projector screen with multiple monitors on either side of the screen.  I went for the 5th gen intel i7 5820k as opposed to the 6th gen because, well, it blows it out of the water.  I can easily set my base cores (all 6, 12 if you include hyperthreading) at 4.2ghz on water cooling, of course, with turbo set at 4.6ghz.  Minor voltage adjustment, just for stability and I run 16gb 2400 mhz ddr4 on a gigabyte ud4 x99. I edge out a non-overclocked I7 5960X (8core/16thread) cpu on all benchmarks (at least all the ones that are less than 6 years old or so) and I simply smoke a i7-6700k cpu by a long shot, like 50% faster on the majority of benchmarks.  I did the research before buying and found that the 6th gen intel i7 were simply inferior to the 5th gen.  Kinda funny, but that happens sometimes in the cpu world.  I’m running 3 r9 radeons, (with this cpu I only get 2 16 lane pci express and 1 8 lane pci express channels, but oh well,  the 5930k and 5960X both get 3 16 lane pci-express channels (on the same motherboard, or any motherboard for that matter), but honestly, the performance difference isn’t noticeable, even gaming at 4k resolutions with all the detail setting maxed on any current game and, the 5820k has the highest overclock head-room of the 3 by far.  I’m easily 1ghz over stock and its running perfectly, with absolutely zero glitching, artifacts, blue-screens or memory corruption.  Its completely solid as if it were running at stock frequencies.  I’ve pushed up a few 100 mhz higher, but I don’t feel comfortable when gaming when a cpu reaches 80 degrees centigrade.  I barely reach 70 degrees (even when really pushing it with either gaming or high def video editing/encoding) with the settings i’m currently running, and its super duper fast.  I put remix on it too, but its just not the same without a touch screen, but it does run blazingly fast.

Anyway, sorry for boring everybody, take care, and don’t look too deep into this tablet, its inexpensive, fairly well constructed and runs at a respectable performance level.  I have on that is over 4000, as far as the last 4 digits of the serial.  The documentation states that you shouldn’t flash this particular bios on a tablet label 2000 or under.  I have read of a few guys who did it anyway and only 1 had an unfortunate result (bricked).  BTW, backup your bios embedded windows key (if you care and don’t kms) as the bios flash wipes it out.  I, on the other hand, replaced the version of windows contained in the provided windows PE installation with the version I prefer to run (can’t stand home edition, its missing too many essential components), and modified the script accordingly with a valid installation key.  Its pretty easy to do.

I apologize, (obviously, not in advance, lol) for talking your ears off (if there is more than one of you who actually read this, lol ((again))) and potentially, and inadvertently coercing your inner synapses to, most probably, slow to a state in which your boredom level either leads to anger or frustration, but hey, maybe you learned something, or maybe I need to, but at any rate, you can flash this tablet yourself, and you can modify it to dual boot windows and android.  I have, and would highly recommend it.  You and, btw, (this is it, I swear) boot into the 32 bit version of gparted, resize the main android partion, take the remaining available free space and combine it with the other free space contained at the end of the disk to reduce the size of the android os.  You will have to mark the “persistent” partition as empty in gparted in order to move it to the opposite side of the newly created free space, because in its current state it is immovable.  Once moved to the correct side of the newly created free space, and after the other movable ext4 partitions are on the correct side of the free space and the 2 free spaces are now one contiguous free space, you can then mark the “persistent” partition back to ext 4 (which it is anyway, but gparted doesn’t recognize it as such) and you will now have however much more free space you decided to amputate from the android side, to install a “larger” sized windows 10, uh, installation (for lack of a better word).  This is getting into a little bit more complexity, but with a 32gb drive, 16gb just isn’t a whole lot of room to install windows, and I don’t do much with android other that say, “hey look, I got this one to run both OSes too”.

OK, I’m done.  Take care and may the force and a bit of luck (with a side of an effective serotonin re-uptake inhibitor), be with you (I really have to seek professional help with my addiction and obsessively compulsive overuse of the parenthesis, ((last lol, I promise:))).   My novel is complete, thanks for reading.

[Divergent Droid]

As long as the unit works and has power, this 4 gig mini can compete with the Big laptops with the right accessories.  I’m curious to see what others are buying to accessorize your tablet. To me, there are main 4 things this tablet needs (aside from  keyboard and mouse)  1) better battery, 2) better storage, 3)better sound, 4)Ethernet port – All these things can be added/fixed! – For on the go wifi I’d also add an external wifi dongle with built in directional antenna for picking up weaker signals.

My Picks include:

Battery – Chuwi comes with a 6000 mah battery. I will be using a 20000 mah external power supply to charge my unit on the go. 20.000 mah is enough to charge the unit 3 times between recharging the external battery. Such as this one for example (this unit not tested with Chuwi yet): http://www.amazon.com/20000mAh-Portable-External-Capacity-ExpertPower%C2%AE/dp/B00N4E84T8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457813993&sr=8-4&keywords=20000+mah+battery – make sure you match the power supply to the charging specs of your Chuwi Hi10 – 5 volt 2 amp.

Storage – The 64 gigabyte rom drive your Chuwi runs it’s Windows 10 from is so tiny it’s not good for much except running Windows. Years of Windows updates can clog up all of this space leaving you with none to do work with. You need more storage. What works great for me is my Western Digital Passport Ultra 1 terabyte external USB 3.0 hard drive. Really, I suggest folks have Two of these – one for storage and one to use to actually install all of your programs onto. This 2nd drive will be your main working drive along with the Windows 64 gigabytes drive. I have installed and can play games like Crysis 2, Halflife 2 FarCry 3 etc to this hard drive and they play great due to the very fast speeds of USB 3.0. Suggested type of external: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Passport-Ultra-Portable-External/dp/B00W8XXRPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457814618&sr=8-1&keywords=Western+Digital+Passport+Ultra

Sound – The Chuwi comes with tiny speakers that are facing the side and back of the unit thus you don’t get good quality sound to your ears in front of the device. Adding external speakers may be your thing. You can always use a good set of headphones for private listening.  For non private listening, good external speakers require power. I suggest you use speakers that will plug into your external battery power supply if you have one, otherwise the power plugged into your Chuwi will eat up the battery life you need to run the unit. Alternatively, you can try to find AA or AAA battery powered speakers which is preferable (for me) but hard to find. Perhaps something like these neat speakers that clip on to the top of your Chuwi screen: http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Wall-mounted-External-Speaker-Laptop/dp/B017RSSKY0/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1457815314&sr=8-45&keywords=mini+laptop+external+speakers  Again, remember to make sure you match the power requirements to your external power supply. The power supply I mention above has an extra port you can use to power your speakers as well as a port to charge your Chuwi.

Ethernet port – Chuwi Hi10 doesn’t come with an Ethernet port. While at home you can get faster speeds and save some battery power by using Ethernet instead of the built in wifi. For this, I suggest a 3.0 USB Ethernet port. Yes, they make 3.0 USB Ethernet ports! Ethernet is faster than Wifi but not faster than USB 3.0 thus you will get all of your home ethernet speed without the slowdowns. Since in my case, I am using a 3,0 USB Western Digital external hard drive, I elected to get a 3 port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet port such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457816145&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ubs+hub+ethernet (has 4 ports total, 3 USB and 1 Ethernet) This way I can use the external hard drive and the ethernet both through the 3.0 USB hub and the Chuwi 3.0 USB port.

For Boosting wifi – is the – External Wifi dongle with directional antenna – You’d need both the dongle and the antenna such as seen here:

Dongle: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-Adaptor-Compatible/dp/B004Y6MIXS/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31OywCLDnvL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0V162F50Z65EJJ095NA3

Antenna: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-Booster-High-Gain-Antenna/dp/B003ZWPRUI/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457816495&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=alfa+directional+usb+wifi+antenna

Lastly, I don’t think you could go wrong with a tablet case such as the Case Logic VNA 210 – Small enough to fit your Chuwi and roomy enough to carry all your accessories. This one was my choice. http://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-10-2-Inch-Netbook-Attache/dp/B002STX2ZG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457816858&sr=8-2&keywords=case+logic+vna

Thanks for reading my post, I look forward to your accessories ideas.

[dlink377]

Chris G wrote:

Same issue as me then, just my USB 3 flash/pen drives will work. But any HDD with a USB 3 OTG it will not power it the light flash blue but it never shows in . At least the USB 2 ports on the dock work jsut fine. Very disappointing, that and the poor speakers are the two only faults of this otherwise wonderful little 2 in one transformer style tablet. Now we know why Cube only included a USB 2.0 and not USB 3.0 Micro to USB adaptor! Wondering if these setting may help?

USB Harddisk doesn’t work for me even when connecting to USB 2 port or USB 3 with USB 2 OTG.

Speaker is horrible, but I can live with that. I plan to use this on the field when installing network and CCTV system, which only can be done using Windows and Ethernet is required. Need a computer that I can throw in the tool bag, that I will not care about scratches.

Does the USB harddisk work using the keyboard dock?

I plan to buy a USB Wifi Nano and install it on the dock. The wifi on the tablet is just not gonna make it if I want to install CCTV system. Too many dropped packets and broken packets, even my router repeatedly logged “Disconnected, extensive packet loss” and “Data from unknown device”.

Edit: Now the USB 3 doesn’t work at all again. I think I gave up to run USB 3 on this tablet.

Edit 2: I changed the setting XHCI to Disabled. Now USB 3 it is working again. Harddisk still not working. Will report again if this works, since before the USB 3 works randomly.

[dlink377]

I own this tablet for few days already. I bought it on TaoBao directly from CUBE shop.

Performance wise, I think it is just okay. I am constantly using it for chrome, but definitely you can see it sometime will slow down. Having 4G of RAM definitely helps the performance of memory hungry chrome. Office will work without problem, but free 1 year Office 360 is not included (it is included in iWork8 last year). I haven’t try to do programming on the tablet, since the screen is so small, so I prefer to do programming on my computer.

Never tried Chuwi, but I do like the full sized port. I bought this because I want to use the dual boot version. Windows 10 is not friendly at all for touch user. You might prefer to use Android if you want to use it as tablet mode.

The windows partition size is 41.6GB, with free space after installing necessary apps such as office and updating it is around 19.7GB. Probably just because I install few more apps that I use such as codec pack, firefox and chrome, torrent, and one or two small games from Windows store to try the gaming performance.

I have few problem that I personally find:

1. SD Card Reader has bug. On android it frequently disconnected randomly and reconnected again. On Windows, most of the time it just don’t work at all. You must use old Class 4 card. I bought Samsung 64GB EVO+ and it only worked for first day. I changed to cheap 8GB class 4 memory card, and it works without problem.
2. USB 3.0 most of the time will not work. You can use USB 2.0 without problem though. USB Harddisk will not work at all (you can use USB Y cable, with power from external source).
3. Android performance is not really up to my standard. The android is fine, but any 3rd party apps performance is quite slow. My old Note 8 is faster.
4. It drains battery too much when sleeping. Both in Windows and Android. Around 1-5% per hour. Even worse in Windows.
5. WiFi is not stable. The infamous Realtek SDIO Wireless chip is installed. The speed is around 1MB-3MB, and it constantly drop even I am next to the router. If you use it as web browsing only, there is no problem.
6. There is no stylus support that I know of. They do provide some cheap looking pen that mimic touch that not even work at all time. There is also no palm rejection.

Probably even more, since I only use this tablet for few days.

However, I still believe this is probably the best for 900RMB+ class tablet out there. The aluminum body is very nice and good quality. Screen is okay and very high resolution. Chuwi is nice, but it is plastic body, which I don’t really like.

I bought keyboard dock for additional 300RMB, which is quite expensive, considering the tablet itself is 980RMB. I haven’t receive the keyboard yet, they just sent me the tablet.

[Daniel]

Yes I have. I mean, I would still try to solder on the usb wifi-card so I might as well keep this one.

Yeah, I really hope I works. I broke the sim-card-reader so l´ll try to replace that one as well. Even thought I dont think I will be able to replace it, but we´ll see…

 

I guess no one have found out the actual size of the charging-connector?

[mrobi]

Is the inbuilt Wifi chip USB2.0 like in i7?

[julien]

Hello,

So someone resolve WIFI issue ?? I’m using a usb dongle WIFI, waiting for a solution from CHUWI

Cheers

[Daniel]

Ok, thats enough. Just drop it, both of you. We´ve had like 32 pages without any trolling. So just knock it off!

 

I have received my aukey ac600 wifi card. I have just ordered a new soldering station, after that, I will try to solder on the usb-wifi to the tablet and see what the speeds will be like. And for me its extra crucial that it works since my built in wifi no longer works

[Anonymous]

I gave the new version a spin. I installed in resident mode. The screen is rotated 90 degrees, but it does work now.

As posted the dpi default is almost unusable. Had to get out the magnifing glass 🙂

It seemed much slower than when I had it running on the hdmi with the last version. It seems to be choking on the retina screen resolution. No gpu support for cherry trail seems to be the issue here.

No wifi, no sound, no screen rotation, no touch. The dlink usb wifi adapter that worked with the last version did not seem to work now? Def not ready for prime time on the x98 plus, but it’s progress!

Max

[Arévalo Frutos]

I think I am fixing it! I have thought that Ihas only disabled the power from the usb devices so I have made a cable with an external power to the tablet and it has made a signal with a wifi antenna. When I connect only the energy, the light of the antenna is off. When I connect the energy and the data cables with the tablet turned off, it does not light, but when I turn on the tablet the antenna is turned on! I will try that with a keyboard and I’m going to post the results 🙂

[Hans]

I took some photos from the outside and also opened the tablet. I wanted to search if it possible to connect power somewhere inside. Sadly it is not easy to figure out, there are no obvious test points. Somehow I would need to fiddle around at the USB-C connector.

The mainboard looks to be glued onto the screen. There are two screws, but they seem to offer some support for the connector. There are pins for a second speaker. Around the Realtek sound chip there is place for a few other ribbon cable connectors, I don’t know what they are for. Next to micro SD slot there seems to be an unpopulated slot and an area around it. I think this could be a place for a SIM card plus mobile data modem. The R+ R- pads have no connections, there is no component to attached to it.

At the top there is one WIFI antenna and two unused mounting spaces. One could be for example for an ambient light sensor. If Chuwi would relocate the speaker e.g. to the top or the other side, I would be possible to have a bigger battery inside.

I would love to see what is under the cans, but I don’t want to risk damaging it. The smaller contains the WIFI chip, the antenna is going there. The bigger one must be the CPU + some interface chips + eMMC.

If someone wants to donate me their faulty one, I can do a full teardown and post high-res photos.

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