Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[Chim]

my build.prop file (check attachment)

 

# begin build properties
# autogenerated by buildinfo.sh
ro.build.id=O00623
ro.build.display.id=V1.04_20180904
ro.build.version.incremental=1536040226
ro.build.version.sdk=26
ro.build.version.preview_sdk=0
ro.build.version.codename=REL
ro.build.version.all_codenames=REL
ro.build.version.release=8.0.0
ro.build.version.security_patch=2018-02-05
ro.build.version.base_os=
ro.build.date=2018年 09月 04日 星期二 13:48:45 CST
ro.build.date.utc=1536040125
ro.build.type=user
ro.build.user=decent
ro.build.host=Android
ro.build.tags=release-keys
ro.build.flavor=full_x970_t10-user
ro.product.model=M20 4G
ro.product.brand=Teclast
ro.product.name=Teclast
ro.product.device=M20 4G
# ro.product.cpu.abi and ro.product.cpu.abi2 are obsolete,
# use ro.product.cpu.abilist instead.
ro.product.cpu.abi=arm64-v8a
ro.product.cpu.abilist=arm64-v8a,armeabi-v7a,armeabi
ro.product.cpu.abilist32=armeabi-v7a,armeabi
ro.product.cpu.abilist64=arm64-v8a
ro.product.manufacturer=Teclast
ro.product.locale=en-US
ro.wifi.channels=
# ro.build.product is obsolete; use ro.product.device
ro.build.product=x970_t10
# Do not try to parse description, fingerprint, or thumbprint
ro.build.description=full_x970_t10-user 8.0.0 O00623 1536040226 release-keys
ro.build.fingerprint=KTE/x970_t10/x970_t10:8.0.0/O00623/1536040226:user/release-keys
ro.build.characteristics=tablet
# end build properties
#
# from device/mediateksample/x970_t10/system.prop
#
#
# system.prop for generic sdk
#

rild.libpath=mtk-ril.so
rild.libargs=-d /dev/ttyC0

# MTK, Infinity, 20090720 {
wifi.interface=wlan0
# MTK, Infinity, 20090720 }

# MTK, mtk03034, 20101210 {
ro.mediatek.wlan.wsc=1
# MTK, mtk03034 20101210}
# MTK, mtk03034, 20110318 {
ro.mediatek.wlan.p2p=1
# MTK, mtk03034 20110318}

# MTK, mtk03034, 20101213 {
mediatek.wlan.ctia=0
# MTK, mtk03034 20101213}

#
wifi.tethering.interface=ap0
#

wifi.direct.interface=p2p0
#dalvik.vm.heapgrowthlimit=256m
#dalvik.vm.heapsize=512m

# USB MTP WHQL
ro.sys.usb.mtp.whql.enable=0

# Power off opt in IPO
sys.ipo.pwrdncap=2

ro.sys.usb.storage.type=mtp

# USB BICR function
ro.sys.usb.bicr=no

# USB Charge only function
ro.sys.usb.charging.only=yes

# audio
ro.camera.sound.forced=0
ro.audio.silent=0

ro.zygote.preload.enable=0

# temporary enables NAV bar (soft keys)
qemu.hw.mainkeys=0

ro.kernel.zio=38,108,105,16
#ro.kernel.qemu=1
#ro.kernel.qemu.gles=0
#ro.boot.selinux=disable

# Disable dirty region for Mali
#debug.hwui.render_dirty_regions=false

ro.sf.lcd_density=320

# Enable Virtual Display for hwc
debug.sf.enable_hwc_vds=1

# performance
ro.mtk_perf_simple_start_win=1
ro.mtk_perf_fast_start_win=1
ro.mtk_perf_response_time=1
# disable ipo for development
sys.ipo.disable=1
ro.romtool.custom_build_version=true
ro.romtool.time_12_24=24
ro.romtool.homepage=www.teclast.com
# NavigationBar Button (hide & screenshot)
ro.navbar.hide=0
ro.navbar.screenshot=0
ro.mtk_default_ime=com.google.android.inputmethod.pinyin.PinyinIME
ro.settings.netspeed=0
persist.sys.timezone=Asia/Shanghai
ro.product.device=m20_m3k1
ro.fota.device=m20_m3k1

#
# ADDITIONAL_BUILD_PROPERTIES
#
ro.treble.enabled=true
persist.sys.dalvik.vm.lib.2=libart.so
dalvik.vm.isa.arm64.variant=cortex-a53
dalvik.vm.isa.arm64.features=default
dalvik.vm.isa.arm.variant=cortex-a53
dalvik.vm.isa.arm.features=default
net.bt.name=Android
dalvik.vm.stack-trace-file=/data/anr/traces.txt

# begin fota properties
ro.fota.platform=MTK6797_8.0
ro.fota.type=pad_phone
ro.fota.app=5
ro.fota.oem=jintaiyi6797_8.0
ro.fota.device=M20 4GM3K1
ro.fota.version=V1.04_20180904
# end fota properties
ro.expect.recovery_id=0x1658697fcfee6f901d76a1c3b8a61cc7b21545e5000000000000000000000000

[dufus]

Hi all new here,

Received my cube tday and turned it on went to activate screen went off, when I turned it back on it had a message about setting up for y organisation… anyway to cut a long story short I managed or more to the point fluked starting it to the bios I then put my usb stick with windows 10 pro on it and go it to install ya I said except I have no Wifi as it can’t find any wifi or other network, also there is No camera either so I must need drivers. I have some windows drivers that my friend had for there onda tablet would I be able to use them?

Reason being I am on wireless internet with a plan Of 8gigs per month so I don’t know how I would download any others.

Thank you for taking the time to read this any suggestions at all will be appreciated.

[Fabio]

Hi guys. Hi know this is a topic that you had discussed a lot of times, but I need some more “specific” help.

As title, the wifi on this laptop it’s just horrible, absolutely garbage. It frequently disconnects, it’s slow, poor range etc.
But my main problem is that it totally hang and lose connectivity when the laptop it’s base on a surface… I must lift it with something on left side for make the wifi work again (bad, but works). I did some tests… Put laptop on a table / surface during a download, speed goes WAY down or just totally hang, if I raise it, download starts again at full speed…
I did open the back of my Ezbook 3 pro, antennas are connected good, cables are ok… Maybe the cables or the wifi card touch the alluminium body when faced on a surface? Should I try isolate it with foam or something similar? This sh** is getting me VERY angry and nervous… Plus, cause I did open it and modded for fit an standard m2 ssd, I can’t even use my warranty…

Oh yeah and of course, it’s impossible use the left usb because as soon as I connect something to it, wifi die. Should I buy an X4 and destroy this thing? lol…

Any hint? It’s not my main notebook, it’s for my father, and I really need he can use it without problems…  Thanks

[Greedo77]

Nick wrote:

Yeah it really sucks that the battery is so bad, and the whole laptop is good for traveling etc…if it had a usb-c i could charge it with my powerbank… hmmm so i should order 2 of these right? https://es.aliexpress.com/item/L552-3-7V-6000mAH-4212078-PLIB-Polymer-lithium-ion-Li-ion-battery-LG-cell-for/32531318879.html?shortkey=b6JBfMny&addresstype=600 These are the ones you have installed also?

I ordered those and fitted them at the weekend. Running great so far, still at 52% from the 1st charge and ive used an hour or two every other night (showing 6hr 18min remaining).  And also just had the Win10 April update force install.  I had set my wifi connection to metered to try to prevent any OS updates (as everything was running fine), but all seems good so far.  So you can try and get a refund but they will ask you to post the laptop back to them, so just push for a partial refund, i got $30 from Geekbuying and bought 2x batteries from aliexpress which totalled about £17 including shipping.

[Chris]

Hi Chris, sorry for the delay, work got the better of me.

Thanks for your suggestions, I booted from a Linux Mint distro as you suggested, and WiFi did not show up (although Bluetooth did). I guess this means that my Intel 3165 is well and truly dead (a moment of silence please). I guess that I’ll just have to bring this little Frankenmonster to work though, since everything else works fine. You should see how ridiculous it looks with an USB hub, wireless presenter, wireless mouse, WiFi dongle, Micro HDMI, and USB-C charger connected all at once — like it’s on life support.

About the WiFi cards, you’ve been very fortunate — I’ve been tinkering with PCs and laptops since the 90s too and have had 2 fail on me. One network card in a Lenovo laptop after 4 years of service which I replaced with little trouble (although I had to get someone to whitelist the card into the firmware), and this Onda’s Intel 3165 with only 3 month’s service.

[Chris]

Hi guys I got my Onda Xiaoma 21 in March of this year, unfortunately, the built in wifi (Intel 3165) has quit working about 1.5 months back. I’m wondering if any one else is facing this problem? The retailer I bought it from (China-based) provided a few suggestions to see if the device was disabled but I did everything he said and it still does not work. After that he just stopped responding to my request for return for servicing.

The wifi chip is built in and cannot be replaced. Under “Network Properties” in Win 10 the WiFi shows up as “Intel (R) Dual Band Wireless – AC 3165” and the status is “Not Present”. I suspect the root cause is that one time I shut the lid and put it in my laptop bag, but on taking it out a couple of hours later found that it had not hibernated as it should and was quite warm to the touch.

The  I’ve tried the following to no avail;

1.  Services.msc > Wired Config + WLAN Autoconfig — Both running
2. Installing the Intel drivers direct from the Intel website
3. Restoring to an earlier restore point
4. Resetting Win 10 (OS only) but this did not succeed there was an issue preventing it from completing (issue unknown)
5. Looking for the Wifi setting on UEFI but I can’t seem to find it.

I’m at my wit’s end and currently am using a USB Wifi adaptor but it’s not ideal because of the slower speed and lack of dual band (5GHz not available). Also 50% of the USB ports are occupied and I’m pretty sure it is draining my battery faster than the on-board wifi too.

Any suggestions on what I should do? Any help will be much appreciated!

[Chris]

Hi guys I got my Onda Xiaoma 21 in March of this year, unfortunately, the built in wifi (Intel 3165) has quit working about 1.5 months back. I’m wondering if any one else is facing this problem? The retailer I bought it from (China-based) provided a few suggestions to see if the device was disabled but I did everything he said and it still does not work. After that he just stopped responding to my request for return for servicing.

The wifi chip is built in and cannot be replaced. Under “Network Properties” in Win 10 the WiFi shows up as “Intel (R) Dual Band Wireless – AC 3165” and the status is “Not Present”. I suspect the root cause is that one time I shut the lid and put it in my laptop bag, but on taking it out a couple of hours later found that it had not hibernated as it should and was quite warm to the touch.

The  I’ve tried the following to no avail;

1.  Services.msc > Wired Config + WLAN Autoconfig — Both running
2. Installing the Intel drivers direct from the Intel website
3. Restoring to an earlier restore point
4. Resetting Win 10 (OS only) but this did not succeed there was an issue preventing it from completing (issue unknown)
5. Looking for the Wifi setting on UEFI but I can’t seem to find it.

I’m at my wit’s end and currently am using a USB Wifi adaptor but it’s not ideal because of the slower speed and lack of dual band (5GHz not available). I’m pretty sure it is draining my battery faster than the on-board wifi too.

Any suggestions on what I should do? Any help will be much appreciated!

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[Anonymous]

Hi @felince

Chris will have been referring to the Intel drivers (chipset, GPU, WiFi etc).  Yes these are updated via Windows Update, but not to the very latest versions for your hardware.

If you download the Intel Driver & Support Assistant on your laptop this will download and install the very latest Intel drivers which should resolve any issues you’re having, assuming they are of course driver related.

I have a cheap “iHaper” USB-C hub with Ethernet, HDMI and 3 USB 3.0 ports on it. In my case I can successfully use this hub for power delivery, HDMI, Ethernet and USB sound card all at the same time. The only difference, I guess, is in the vendor of the hub and the drivers. Hopefully the updates will help you!

[Anonymous]

primo wrote:

hello i’m new to the teclast forum and I’m also planning on picking up either the teclast f6 or f5 which is on presale at the moment. My question is about the ssd used to boot windows 10 if you replace the stock ssd did you also have to clone win10 to your new ssd. thanks again.

I bought a WD 2TB SSD, M2 2280 size. I also got a “ribbon” extender, with the intention of mounting the SSD inside the laptop right beneath the SSD slot. Unfortunately it didn’t go to plan. The SSD fits in the  space perfectly, however the ribbon connector is taller than the laptop!

If you wanted to replace the internal SSD then you’d need to either:
1. Get an external enclosure for the new SSD, then use some disk cloning software to copy the contents of the 128GB SSD onto your new SSD via the external enclosure.
2. Download and burn a Windows installation media to USB drive, fit the new SSD, then run a fresh install of Windows onto your new SSD.

I have resorted to using a good quality external SSD enclosure, and a short (10cm) shielded USB cable to avoid the “USB 3 noise” problem that kills WiFi. Pics attached. It’s not very noticeable and quite practical.

[Andi]

Hi Filippo,

Maybe you can check, what Wifi-Hardware you have. You don´t have to have the same Hardware as me.

mine is using Realtek RTL8723B over USB2.0.

Driverdetails are:

Realtek Semiconductor Corp., Date 25.12.2017, Version 1030.25.701.2017.

it uses rtlwlan.sys and wifibus.sys.

From other Systems i know, that sometimes Energy save modes disconnect the wlan, reconnect may end in error. perhaps you can try to deactivate Power saving of the Wifi.. But only a idea.

Also it could be, that Bluetooth Connected to your Jumper makes error, because RTL8723B is a shared Hardware for both.

At this time, i don´t more suggestions, hope you can solve your Wifi.

 

[Chupa]

I have a funny phenomenon that when I put a longer usb stick in the usb3 port my wifi looses signal.
remove the usb or put it on short cable extension or hub restores the wifi

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

i did  a software wifi range test post here what might be of some help
another simple solution is a tiny usb wifi stick
got a cheap N at ali 2$ and it works instantly on different notebooks because it uses a standard windows 7-10 driver what is included in the win isos
plug and play was never easier and instant

and if you run out of usb ports look at my fixed mounted extenders

remember
Chupa sees all – ouch where did that stone came from
Chupa hears all – will you please speak up
Chupa knows all – he knows a spy named Google and friends
Chupa smells all – only if I have a migraine

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[lations]

Paolo wrote:

Yes, I’m 100% sure. I was nearly purchasing an external wifi antenna for the frustration I was in. To roll back first uninstall the pro-set wireless software, then go to device manager, go to the Intel dual band wireless AC-3165, select driver and click on “uninstall device”. Finally, Win will install the first driver.

I was in a room poorly reached by the wifi signal, and the rollback gave me a boost on the connection. I’ve also used my Android phone as an external wifi antenna via USB and it worked great wen the last driver 20.06 was installed. But now I don’t need it anymore.

Just to confirm, you let windows install a driver? You didn’t use the driver from the DoubleDriver dump

[Paolo]

Yes, I’m 100% sure. I was nearly purchasing an external wifi antenna for the frustration I was in. To roll back first uninstall the pro-set wireless software, then go to device manager, go to the Intel dual band wireless AC-3165, select driver and click on “uninstall device”. Finally, Win will install the first driver.

I was in a room poorly reached by the wifi signal, and the rollback gave me a boost on the connection. I’ve also used my Android phone as an external wifi antenna via USB and it worked great wen the last driver 20.06 was installed. But now I don’t need it anymore.

[lations]

Chupa wrote:

BUT you can activate charging through the usb port when the pc is off and then power is used and drained even if nothing is connected.
same is for wake up on lan or wifi

If what you’re saying is actually correct, then this might explain the power drain issues that we are having while it’s turned off.

What are all the settings that affect this, and where can we turn them off? Is it just the 3 things you mentioned? I believe the usb charging thing is in Windows somewhere, and the wake on lan/wake on wifi things are in the bios? No? Where are they?