Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[Chupa]

in real power off, no memory is retained no power used except for the on off circuit what is next to nothing
In hibernation the memory is written to the ssd/emmc what needs no power to retain
in sleep mod there is trickle power used to keep the memory alive

BUT you can activate charging through the usb port when the pc is off and then power is used and drained even if nothing is connected.
same is for wake up on lan or wifi

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Sebastian]

Hi!

I’m looking for some powerful  yet reasonably priced surface clone.

I’m photographer and that’s my main area of concern.

Now I have powerful stationary workstation, but I’m looking for new mobile computer. I have cube iWork 10 ultimate, but atom has just not enough power, so I’m using it mostly to theter images through wifi, yet even in that it’s not good as battery can’t withstand longer shoots and even plugged in it charges slower than uses battery.

On the other hand whenwi need more computing power i have my old lenovo y580, but it’s bulky, heavy  has very low quality screen and is in quite bad condition after years of lugging it around with me.

So I’m looking for alternative that would be as powerful as plausible, to be able to handle big raw files from time to time (only in special cases, my main photoshop machine is my stationary workstation, but on trips etc. To get samole images quickly), has big battery and charges quickly (no more usb 2.0 charging!) and is light and is tablet, so I can use it as screen while shooting (that’s not up to discussion, only detachable keyboards, no notebooks/laptops).

I was looking at Voyo vbook i7 plus, as it looks like everything i want and is really good priced, i don’t see it anywhere on this site. Has anyone used it?

But 8gen coffee lake U processors look great, especially like 8559U, but I don’t see any “Chinese” devices with it, and surface, or other “western” brands are out of my budget. Is there chance, anyone has any info, to get something like this voyo only updated with 4 core 8gen i7?

Thank you very much on advance for your answers.

Best regards,

Sebastian Wnęk

[Andi]

Ok, i try to explain:

Before you try to boot from USB, i have to warn you about the black screen you will get if you follow my instruction!

If you don´t have a Micro HDMI cable to a TV Set, you won´t be able to restore anything, if something went wrong. You also Need this HDMI Cable to make your Settings in BIOS. If you have a Cable, connect it to a TV Set or other HDMI Input device and try if you get Picture of your Pad. Not only from Windows, also from the Bios Screen.

If this works, you can go further.

Enter Bios (hope you see it now on your TV Set:-) ). Go to Chipset – South Bridge – OS Selection. In here there should be “Windows”. If you´re unsure, here is my 2nd Warning: Changeing this item will dark your Screen an the Pad, only HDMI will work. I choose here “Intel Linux” to boot Grub from a USB Stick.

By the Way, installing a Linux. Android, Remix OS from USB works fine, but to get back to useable Pad, you have to switch the OS Selction back to Windows. This is the only Way i found to boot with Screen on the Tablet. But other´s (non Win)OS may then no more boot. ( I spend many Day´s on it)

This Tablet seems only to Boot from a EFI Loader. MBR Loaders hang up at boot.

The only way of Dualboot i managed by now is by the newest Android X86 (Oreo)and it´s Grub Loader.

But theres a Little Bug with WIFI, witch isn´t easy for me to solve. (Realtek RTL 8723 Bug with Antenna selction). You don´t have Wifi. But a nice Grub Loader which boot with Setting in Bios OS Selection “Windows”.

P.S. Disable in Bios “Quiet Boot” , “Fast Boot”, and set “Setup Prompt Timeout” to 3s. You have then 3 sec. time to select Boot OS by Pressing “F7”.

Good luck. If you brick your Tab, please don´t make me responsible for it. (The Jumper Bios is merciless).

 

 

[fewt]

It can, I had High Sierra on my Cube i7 Stylus, and used it as my backup Macbook until it died a few weeks ago.  Some of the challenges you’ll have with the Mix Plus are going to be the Intel WIFI not being supported, having to patch your DSDT to enable battery status reporting, adding a fake ethernet device for the app store, etc.

You can find compatible USB WIFI adapters on the internet.

If it’s as close to the i7 Stylus as I expect it is, you’ll probably want to use VoodooHDA, and set up a custom pin config for your device for audio (the native patches, and AppleALC kexts will have issues with resuming from sleep), you’ll want to use VoodooI2C for touch and pen input, RehabMan’s ACPI Battery Manager, and NullEthernet.

There are how-tos for all of the above on tony mac etc.

With the i7 Stylus I even had built in WIFI working, but it was a Realtek device not Intel.  The only thing keeping me from replacing the Stylus with a Mix Plus is the Intel WIFI.

[Marcos Filho]

Actually, my tablet have an issue with wifi connection, i not be able to turn on wifi (when i click to turn on wifi never finnish the process) and i will try use a wifi USB adapter under Windows, so im stuck here and can't use my devices internet…

[Torbjørn Røstelien]

first off, i have owned this:

Teclast x98 dual boot, (i was dumb and wanted to update bios etc, almost bricked it, sold it with no working 3G and camera and sdcardreader.)

Pipo w6s 3G very good tablet, still works, sold it to my friend.

Lenovo tab 3 pro plus, it was good but i got greedy for storage and sold it and bought a Lenovo tab 3 PRO 64gb with projector wich was so CRAP i irritated me by using it and finally sold it 5 days ago to some dumbass like myself.

So, here i am, no tablet and having a MSI gaming laptop in my bed is not a ideal thing.

I have been searching the last 5 days NON STOP looking at rewiews, video, prices (wich are not so big deal actually).

But i really wanted something fully laminated, with LTE, with a usb C or at least a usbport, i dont need keyboard, i need high resolution preferably 2K and a tablet that can stream netflix in 4k or a “official” tablet that wont just get SD quality because its from china.

I have a 128gb sdcard that i preferably want to have exfat so i can have bigger files, but the streaming part are the most important.

I need a tablet that have a beautiful display and a deasent wificard that will read my files from my NAS and stream them without hiccups and also be able to have UHD. preferably.

So, i have somewhat narrowed it down, the Chuwi hi9 air with LTE but a microusb charger (puke) and i have no idea if netflix will allow it to stream and store uhd or HD from them.

Or i can go with teclast t10 master and not have LTE wich i can live without, but i preferabkly want a tablet that can have the netflix and very good battery life and screen.

Its driving me crazy.

Dual boot, why not? but i prefer android as im not sure about netflix and windows. And i like android. well..

Anyone with a idea or suggestion or can make me look into a different tablet or something??

[Jeff]

Ferguson wrote:

I read in some forums that this problem is a bios issue, not windows issue. It’s common in other tablets (chuwi, etc.) https://forum.chuwi.com/thread-3250-1-1.html Currently, I’m testing a bios setting (go to bios, Chipset- southbridge – SCC SDIO Support-> disabled; default setting: ACPI Mode). For the momment, it is working for me (android & windows). But, be very very carefull touching bios settings. Other forums recommend SCC SDIO Support and SCC SD Card Support settings in PCI Mode (default: ACPI Mode), but in my case, windows was fine without issues, but android was not working well (random restarts)

That disabled built-in WiFi & Bluetooth on Android and Windows. When I tried PCI mode  on both, Android did indeed keep crashing, WiFi on windows was slower (worse reception) and I had to enter AP passwords again.

Then I tried SCC SDIO back to ACPI, and SCC SD Card to PCI. Android wouldn’t recognize the microSD as anything but corrupted. I rebooted, reinserted, even formatted another microSD, but all failed. Right after I rebooted with a different microSD card, it went straight to BIOS and I can’t access either OS anymore…

I was thinking of trying your settings with SCC SDIO Mode for WiFi set to DDR50, would that finally work for both Android and Windows? Anyways, I was going to restore from a disk image, but using my recovery USB requires me to boot from Windows first… Thank again regardless, are you from the Chinese forums?

*I only have 1 boot option in BIOS (UEFI: Built-in EFI Shell)… I’m screwed aren’t I? The internal disk speed was suspiciously slow.

[AG]

I had the same problem of missing wifi device on a 3S after latest Win 10 1803 update.

Open Device manager, expand bluetooth, there was a generic bluetooth adapter listed, right click update driver. The wifi card is both wifi N + bluetooth device, but seems to be picked up as bluetooth only.

Use this driver from microsoft catalog update for Win 10, choose “Realtek Semiconductor Corp. – WLAN – Realtek RTL8723B Wireless LAN 802.11n USB 2.0 Network Adapter “.  It should be the AMD64 bit driver, not 32 bit (click the name to see details of the driver).

https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=802.11+n+WLAN

Download the CAB file, extract using 7zip to a folder, then in Device manager, Bluetooth – Update Driver.

“Browse my computer”, “Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer”, “Have Disk”, browse to extracted files, then OK and scroll through the list of available device drivers, select “Realtek RTL8723B Wireless LAN 802.11n USB 2.0 Network Adapter”.

Mine is showing version 1030.26.801.2017 from 31/01/2018.

Restart computer and you should also see “Realtek Bluetooth 4.0 Adapter” auto installed in device manager – bluetooth, and the WLAN device in Network Adapters.

 

[Chupa]

If PC comes from factory 95% of the time everything is OK and running.

You never update a new pc with anything before you do the following:
you never allow an internet connection on the first run (to get the newest updates)
you check first with the device manager if everything works properly.
than you create a restore point
then you backup all your drivers to an external source
create a rescue device if possible
then you should create a complete image from the boot drive via USB3
Tedious I know, but one hour spend now will save you many hours later!

Activate your wifi and directly set to metered, deactivate wifi and restart.
Now install all the essential monitor programs you already downloaded all the programs and have them on a usb drive. Read Jumpers diary there you find all the information
The same goes for all the programs you want to work with, have them as a offline install version on your usb drive.

Now you turn on wifi and check if everything works. monitor if anything downloads in the background without asking you first!
Remember, Windows 10 is not your friend, it is the big bully what wants your lunch money and gives you trouble.
It will have all computer do exact the same with the same programs and the same setups, in short it wants you to be easy to manage since it knows what is best for you.

If everything runs satisfactory, you do the transfer to SSD, switch in bios to new boot sequence and it should work.
This is now a new drive, so create your first restore point.
Check if everything works.

NOW you can remove the metered setting from wifi and let MS to what they love to do, take control of your pc.
OR you choose my way and try to keep as much control over YOUR pc as possible.
OR find your own way.

And regarding just flashing your bios, in over 30 years working with computers (mine and from others) I never once  flashed a bios.
You might think you know what you are doing, but you do not know what in your pc just might a bit different than in the one who´s bios you now flash on your pc.
Remember: Specification can be changed without notice.

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Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

i tried for 5 months to get 7 or 8.1 working, it is blocked hardware side from intel  and forced driver incompatibility. save a lot of time and read my posts regarding win  7

Please keep in mind that the Apollo lake is build for win 10 only.
Even in my Bios is a win 7 OS option it is not possible.
The intel hardware has some build in nasty surprises what you can counter by external usb devices (wifi, bt, soud, touchpad/mouse etc.
BUT your main problem is the Graphics driver

Do it like I did, prevent windows from updating anything, then rip out everything what bugs you and put a win7 OS look and feel over it. This way you have a modern OS working under the hood with win7 handling, no spying, no telemetry and I never saw even a single advertising or had a single crash because of unwanted remote installation.
I tried all the other  ways, for the Apollo lake this is the best workable for me, since I am back in control ans not MS. (see link below)

 

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

Please keep in mind that the Apollo lake is build for win 10 only.
Even in my Bios is a win 7 OS option it is not possible.
The intel hardware has some build in nasty surprises what you can counter by external usb devices (wifi, bt, soud, touchpad/mouse etc.There are very few people who got it working but just a certain distro under just a specific Jumper version.
If you want to linux, shop for an ultrabook with linux installed already.

Or do it like I did, prevent windows from updating anything, then rip out everything what bugs you and put a win7 OS look and feel over it. This way you have a modern OS working under the hood with win7 handling, no spying, no telemetry and I never saw even a single advertising or had a single crash because of unwanted remote installation.
I tried all the other  ways, for the Apollo lake this is the best workable for me, since I am back in control ans not MS. (see link below)

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

usb wifi stick
1.50 at ali more at your local shopping center with a computer section

Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[John]

I want to install/configure an Android/Lubuntu combination on my Tbook 11 so as to have a responsive portable computing environment that isn’t full of spyware that I can use when traveling. The original Android environment works well enough so that I might leave it alone, but I need to get rid of Windows and install Lubuntu for when I need to use it as a productivity machine.

Following the Linuxium HowTo and using the isorespin.sh script to modify Lubuntu 18.04 LTS, I was able to make that happen the first time without any big problems. WiFi worked out of the box. No touch, but Lubuntu wasn’t designed for touch, so no matter. The original Android install remained in place.

Next, I tried to reinstall Lubuntu after Android was removed and this worked fine too. I even installed LineageOS (CM-x86-14.1-r2), formerly CyanogenMod, from Android-x86.org in a dual boot configuration and this too worked like a champ (though I didn’t spend much time with it, so, for example, I don’t know whether the touch screen works). But this combination seems very promising.

Everything seems perfect … except for one small fly in the ointment: I need to have a USB keyboard connected to the computer to effect an F7 selection method of which OS to boot. This isn’t exactly what I was aiming for. I have the magnetically attached keyboard and keypad designed specifically for the Tbook 11 (which are properly detected and which work properly under Lubuntu 18.04 LTS), but they aren’t seen at boot time, so can’t be used for this purpose. Alas, without the ability to effect an F7 style selection of the OS to boot, the Tbook 11 enters a reboot loop that can’t be exited, and which makes it almost impossible to turn off using the power button. There is a real risk of draining the battery completely.

What I want is a means to select the OS based upon an on screen menu and either a touch (I know this is asking for a lot) or using the volume + / – button. An acceptable fall-back position is for it to boot only into Android if no USB keyboard is available.

The problem seems to be with the UEFI BIOS. (For UEFI purists, I know, that it isn’t a BIOS, but for the rest of us BIOS only means the code that first runs when the computer is turned on). It maintained a boot entry for Windows 10 even after that OS was long ago removed. Likewise it maintained a boot entry for Android even after it had been completely overwritten. I tried removing these entries from within the UEFI BIOS, but they reappear. I then tried using efibootmgr in Lubuntu and was able to remove the Windows entry and make it stick. But, Android still mysteriously comes back after a reboot. I installed refind (which seems to work perfectly), but still need a USB keyboard attached to boot into it using the F7 method. That makes refind’s functionality beside the point.

What seems to be happening is that the boot entries stored in UEFI are backed up somewhere, perhaps in a non-volatile RAM (and hopefully NOT hard-coded), and upon booting, these backup copies automatically replace those stored in UEFI after modifying them using the UEFI BIOS, efibootmgr or refind (and probably any other software). When the UEFI BIOS can’t find the boot files indicated by those boot entries, it generates a momentary flash of an (unreadable) error message and then reboots. The cycle continues forever.

Has anybody else seen this problem? Is there a solution? A work-around (besides carrying around a USB keyboard)? I haven’t been able to find anything on the web.

Thanks for your help.

[Chupa]

After I misused the 256GB m.2 in and out an external USB3.0 case for a lot of screwing around with different windows versions back in my Jumper 3S I finally gave up on win 7 and 8 since it is blocked by intel and MS.

In the end the 256 went back to the usb3 case, the 512 went back into the jumper, the whole thing was cloned again and installed back into the Thomson. When I read my post how Homer reacted last time, booting direct in to the m.2, this time was different.
Booting was into the eMMC and had to be corrected in the boot order.
This time the windows copy had even some more things disabled, windows did behave as it was still in the Jumper.
Everything worked, was activated and did not screw around in trying to update anything.
The only thing what went into an endless boot loop was GTA V, but since the 2 processors in the Thomson can barely cope with the absolute minimum setting  It is not important and will get into the dumpster.

I worked for a couple hours with the Thomson resting on a blanket and after 2 hours the processor temp was 40C and the usage 2 watt. With the light dimmed to 25% the whole battery usage was around 4. something watt.

The Thomson SP-NEOX13.4GR32 is now 3 months in light use and mild tempering, has been open around 10 times to screw around.
The battery is still without any wear, I learned a bit more about him, like precision touchpad, dual ac wifi. The antennas are placed under the palm rest and result in a drop of 8 to 15 db when the keyboard is used , you see good when this happens.
It is still no problem for the lousy 3mb wi-max I am getting but I am getting all 3mb constant.

I absolutely love the matte IPS screen but not when too much direct sunlight is all around, the matte surface acts like a diffuser and the screen is just not bright enough to counter this situation.  In normal room situations just not my bright winter garden with the sunlight full frontal in the morning through 6m2 glass the picture is fine, even comparable when I had my fist Samsung Galaxy 5 OLED experience.
So over all when I read all the Jumper trouble (happily my 3S seems a different breed) I am glad the Thomson is there to pick up where the Jumper will leave off in kind of something happening.

 

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Need Help?
1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[maximms]

I am experiencing the same problem btw. I got my laptop in late February (v6). After a month, the WiFi adapter disappeared as described above.

WiFi stick does solve the problem though both USB ports are occupied now (mouse + WiFi). Not good at all