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Teclast F7 Plus Copper Heatsink Mod. A Must If You Want to Tweak Power Limits

Teclast F7 Plus Copper Heatsink Mod. A Must If You Want to Tweak Power Limits

The Teclast F7 Plus review has been out for a while now, it’s one of the best if not the best Gemini Lake laptop. And one with 8GB of RAM  unlike the Lapbook SE which has only 4GB. Thermals under the stock TDP (Power Limit) are perfectly fine, but if you’re like me you always want to push the absolute maximum out of your tech. Then this mod here which I’ve been doing for years is a cheap and simple way to boost performance. It involves two things, increasing the power limit in the bios and so we can take advantage of more power thermals need to be improved so it will not thermal throttle under the new power limit. And a copper shim and thermal pad of 2mm thickness is the best way to do this.

The guide is below and while it’s easy enough to do, it’s not recommended for those that have never opened up a laptop or PC. There is still a very small risk something could go wrong and render that Teclast F7 Plus dead. Do this mod at your own risk! The Teclast F7 Plus is on sale here.

 

 

 

 

Video tech reviewer and tech blogger. I have a huge interest in the latest tech, tablets, laptops, mobiles, drones, and even e-scooters. Active in the tech community since 2008 days of the Omnia i900 Windows phone. Samsungi8910omnia.com, Samsunggalaxysforums.com founder from way back.

7 Comments

  1. Ok, I did the thermal mod, world great, Soni decided to run heavy load and stress test it , making the wattage isn’t limited to 6 watt.For the first 5 seconds all good, 11-14 watts, after that it drops back to 6 watt and stays there . I’ve also noticed in gaming it’s not going over 6 watt much, where as with the older F7 it would stay at. 9w and over. Thermals defo unlocked in the bios, anyone know why it is still throttling ?

  2. Hi , my F7 plus should be here next week and I already have the copper shim and heatpad. On the video you say you will also need a software mod , as well as unlocking the themals in the bios , to improve gaming. Where do i get that software mod and is there any vids or anything to show you how to do it ?
    Thank you

  3. STATIC ELECTRICITY FEELING question (bonus mod question):
    Hello guys 🙂 this week, I’ve received a gray F7plus device from Teclast official page in Aliexpress (manufactured jan 2019 – Pre-configured Win10 account set in March.). Everything seems opitimal no second-hand. ++HOWEVER, when plugin-in the charging cable, there is a light static feeling on the metal case (i suppose that’s why the keyboard side is plastic).

    > Has anybody with a F7plus noticed this issue? Any solution? Or worst case, any good plastic film/case to cover the laptop without temperature concerns? Please note i haven’t opened the case at all so far.
    > While unscrewing the laptop, any static leak/contact spot to fix ?

    >>> regarding the mod, how thick should be the copper shim? (.8/ 1.0 / 1.5 / 2.0mm?) and whould you rather apply Grizzly Kryaunaut or Conductonaut ?
    tkx xx

  4. Hi Chris, do you think a thermal pad of 2.5mm thickness is still fine or is it too thick? It’s quite hard to get a 2mm one here in New Zealand that doesn’t require shipping from overseas.

  5. My teclast f7 plus will arrive next week, I will then implement the heatsink mod. Since I already have the laptop open, you can see the SSD in the video on the lower right and it looks like there is room for an 80mm SSD. Which SSD type do I need? Unfortunately it won’t be NVMe, will it? Because I have one at home. Is that a NGFF Wifi card under the heatsink in the top left corner? Looks a bit smaller than usual. Would this also be exchangeable? With my Jumper Ezbook 3 Plus one was soldered and had very bad signal receiving. I would also like to change it.

    • Have you had any answers to your questions since you received the laptop?
      IMO and from the videos I had seen, the wifi card seems to be soldered to the motherboard. Did you expand the storage in the end?

      • The wifi card is soldered, you can’t replace it. However, the signal strength is better than in my Jumper EZbook 3 Plus, but not as good as with an older laptop having the intel 8260 and another notebook having the intel 8265 inside. Replacing the SSD works fine. It is a SATA SSD, not an NVMe. I have the 2280mm SSD with 256gb now.

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