Search Results for 'usb wifi'

[Chupa]

ask for a refund and buy a tiny usb wifi stick for 2$

or open up and have a  look, post a pic

there is a tiny chance the underpants gnomes stole it …

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

I cloned the 32GB eMMC from a HP Stream13 with WinToUSB onto a 64GB Sandisk Ultra Fit.
Then I put the Sandisk into the USB3 port of a Jumper 3S and change the boot menu to boot from USB.
47 seconds later the windows 8 from the HP was running on the Jumper and except for adding a USB wifi stick on the USB2 port on then right side of the Jumper. The 2 $ generic N card was instantly recognized and activated.

In the first minute I show the HP and the Jumper side by side booting. Than at 1.01 I show just the Jumper with the complete process from inserting, changing BIOS, booting, running programs and killing the OS by removing the USB stick.

The track pad is working, sound is working, the USB ports are working, all without installing any drivers.
The HP installed browsers are working as are the portable apps.

You see the basic information of both computers which show identical data, except for the difference in hardware.
You also see that this is no fake when I pull the Sandisk out of the Jumper.

enjoy

But if you try to get the intel display or processor drivers (the around 20 little intel driver for all the intel goodness) or anything what is a windows driver – forget it.
This is as far I got with one months of research and trying out the craziest things. The N3450 is blocked inside and outside for win 7 and 8 – 10 only.
But it was fun to see what is possible.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

try a simple micro wifi usb stick

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

your bios (locked or not) will only recognize a proper uefi partitioned ssd with windows 10 or linux correct installed. any wrong prepared ssd will not show up in the boot selection!

So mostly your ssd is not defect, it is just not prepared the proper way.

Because a bus is a bus it has comply to certain standards, there is no Jumper special version what required special cards.

I spend a few days to educate myself and made enough mistakes, but that is what you have to do to understand what works and what not.
I am still learning how the “boot anything from usb” works, so far I made a lot of mess (windows 7) but also some progress. I got a image of win 8.1 from a HP Stream to run  on my jumper, with sound , touch pad, wifi, usb and all the programs what the HP was running.

Sometimes you just have to jump in and try…

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

As nice a full metal case is, it is also a Faraday cage

So inside antennas need to be mounted where they at least have a chance to get a bit of a signal out.
I once got for my Galaxy s5 a nice aluminum frame, so glass in front and plastic in back.
It took me a while to figure out that this slim frame was the source of my very bad GPS reception.
Same happened with an identical frame and a Note3.

So a very simple solution is, disable the internal card via device manager and get yourself a tiny usb  wifi stick.
You know the fun you always having when you do a new OS install and a standard intel chip wifi  modul does not install. So not going to the internet and not collecting a working driver. For that situation I got a 2$ usb wifi stick. plugged it in and windows installed the driver within a second. Then I could got to the internet and do a driver download for all the no shows.

The 2 good things an external wifi has, reception and security,  if you unplug it – no internet connection.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

and if you think M$ does not find a way around that hack, well they do. But hey instead putting 5 min work into a permanent removal program you can download, they offer your this solution:

download 5gb, install, wait what crashes and what works and then you have 10 days to uninstall.
ARE THESE PEOPLE INSANE?

p.s. we have another reminder who pops up every few minutes already in the work.

WINDOWS 10 male ware (we install things what spy on you, record every sound in your house, know every file you have on the computer and every page you been), ransom ware (pay with your own money on your metered connection for our mistakes)….

Well yesterday I got win on a stick, a 8.1 version and copy from my HP Stream running on my Jumper from USB. Sound, mouse, wifi etc works.

 

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Ageatis]

Chupa wrote:

UHM – is there a pictured guide for a blody beginner who never done any linux at all, because this all sounds Chinese to me. I mean there are so many apollo lakes out there with people running some linux distro (see that word I know) ,with just minor differences in maybe the trac pad or the wifi modul. Isn´t there a simple usb dump what is simple to install for simple minded people like little ol´me?

 

Hi @Chupa

The first distro to try is Linux Mint. Very similar to windows but with all linux feature.

Other things to know is difference between drive naming (I mean C: D: etc in win that become something like sda sdb sdb1 etc in  linux).

Than what grub (or other bootloader) is.

Known that you can try installing your distros (not all are working atm. I’m trying to manage kali now) 😀

On ezbook 3 you need to follow some easy steps greatly described in the guide from @baxtex in this post #75601

[Chupa]

UHM – is there a pictured guide for a blody beginner who never done any linux at all, because this all sounds Chinese to me.

I mean there are so many apollo lakes out there with people running some linux distro (see that word I know) ,with just minor differences in maybe the trac pad or the wifi modul. Isn´t there a simple usb dump what is simple to install for simple minded people like little ol´me?

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Chupa]

I got my 512GB Kingspeck (without the k but I could not resist, it´s a German joke) and after a simple outside USB3 cloning the 512 went into my Jumper 3s and the Foresee 256GB went away. Today Homer Thomson with the gigantic memory of 4/32GB got his upgrade.

Reading of all the problems  the Jumperianer having in getting their emmc cloned and working, here is how it went with Homer.
Removed the bottom, removed the cooling metal. Took a picture of the stellar work to nearly find the processor when placing the themo pad.
Circling on the picture where I put new thermal pads, the cooling metal was screwed back and the plastic for the m.2 2242 was removed (one screw and loosen the cable to slip the plastic off. The screw for the 2242 was removed and on the thread was a piece of ductape stuck.Then the 2280 m.2 Foresee was stuck in and fixed with more ductape. On top of the cooling metal were several stripes of thicker cooling pads (silicone type) installed to connect with the full metal back and also where the door for the ssd is was the same thick thermo transfer sillicone pad installed to connect the ssd with the case.

Oh yes and I unplugged the battery at some point when fiddeling inside the pc.

Feeling lucky after everything was screwed back I just started Homer to see what surprise was waiting for me.

Now remember there are now 2 bootable mediums inside one original and one from another computer with mostly similar specs.
waiting
waiting
TADA!

Homer booted from the SSD without me even being near the BIOS.
All my programs were there and everything was running …
OK on closer look there was one driver missing in the device manager and Windows was not activated, also my wifi was on strike.
Now where was my driver dump?
Hmm, I am sure getting old lot´s of CRS syndrome (Cant Remember Shit).
So reboot, enter BIOS tell Bios please boot from EMMc – done.
Double Driver makes a backup, reboot, enter BIOS tell Bios please boot from SSD – done.
Double Driver makes restore, as usual 1 driver fails (it´s an Intel, who cares) – reboot.
Everything works, wifi, the precision tablet (worked even before the Double Driver  restore) and all my little programs. Even Windows activated itself -uh oh, should have taken that hint.

So how fast is my 500/500 SSD now in this new computer – well would you believe 500/500.

Did I fiddle anywhere , NO just what I wrote here and everything works with programs what are installed on another PC I even got rid of the Creators Fall since my Jumper had just Creators what I prefer.

And now back to the uh oh. If you recall from earlier posts my Windows is general set up to NOT update anything. With the help of ShutUp10 and ather nifty programs you can make windows behave like you want. Now with activating itself windows also deactivated my block telemetry and do not  update anything and also I am on a metered wifi connection.
That bloody windows deactivated all my settings and plastered over my whole screen: do not turn off we are just regaining ownership of your computer.
Hell NO.
Disable wifi, run ShutUp10 see what all is again enabled, disable all again,  check installed programs, find several sneaked in windows trojans (with best wishes from microsoft), remove and check installed updates, grrr – found you suckers,  delete.
Had to do some of it 3 times including setting wifi back to metered until win 1703 now behaves.

Believe me Bill Gates and his software was bad, I know I am fighting with this shit since it was named IBM DOS. But 10 is pure evil, Facebook style.

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1981 soldered my first Sinclair computer 1K, tapedeck * 1984 build and sold IBM clones 8Mhz, 512K, 20MB HDD * 2018 messing with ultrabooks

[Ss25PoCo]

Hy, thank you for your answer.

I actually found a solution that is good for me and increases a lot the wifi speed.

 

I bought a wifi usb adaptor for 10€ on a local store and it solve my problem.

 

I boght a Dlink DWA-131, but i’am sure that for the same money or some more you could buy something better.

Like i said, my problem are solved.

 

Regards

[José]

thanks i don’t have anything plugged into my usb ports… i might have to buy one of those cheap usb wifi adapters tho…

sorry for the delayed response but thanks again for the sugestion

[Hualalai]

Pros:

1. Wonderful, fully laminated 2560 x 1600 panel.  An “A-” compared to the Samsung Galaxy Book 12 panel (A+) and Tab S3 panel (A), and equal to the ASUS Zenpad 3 8.0 panel (A-), but a strong “A” among Shenzen panels.  BD transfers (VLC) to MP4 play without stutter using XPlayer.
2. Value… probably the best bang per buck at MSRP in the budget 10″ tablet world.  The “best value” position in the 8″ budget tablet world goes to the Chuwi Hi9.
3. A little lighter than my deceased Teclast X98 3G (583g), with much better performance (other than lack of SIM).  The claimed weight of the T10 is 543g, which is a lie.   The T10 weighs (on my digital scale) 567g.  Build quality is better than that of the X98.
4. Bone stock Android 7.0.0.  No bloatware whatsoever.  No Chinese apps whatsoever (other than Teclast OTA Update).

Cons:

1. OTG works, but lacks ex-FAT support.  Paragon (USD 5.99) will make an 128GB ex-FAT uSD card work via OTG, but not in the uSD slot.  [ -0.5 ]
2. Cannot make Samsung or Patriot 128GB uSD in the uSD slot work as internal storage, native or with Paragon.  Teclast marketing claim of native support for 128GB in the E3C6 series, since the T10 does not recognize ex-FAT natively, and ex-FAT (or NTFS) is needed for any SD size above 32GB.  If you put an ex-FAT uSD card of <=32GB in the uSD slot, the OS will tell you the uSD card is corrupted and needs to be “repaired”… which means reformatted as FAT.  BG says that Kingston uSD “will work”… IDK if that is internal storage only, T10 formatted. [ -1.0 ]

First wifi connection was initially unstable, but “forgetting” the troublesome SSID then re-authenticating gave me a stable connection.  Two more SSIDs authenticated fine and were stable, 2GHz and 5GHz.

Transfer speeds are USB 3.0 (2008, not SuperSpeed aka 3.1 Gen 1) between PC and T10.

Be very careful when removing the top sheet (cover) of the screen protector, or you’ll pull up the screen protector itself… bubble city.  I immediately replaced the stock screen protector; the stock one is the thinnest one I’ve ever seen:   moving my finger around the panel caused rippling.  (TIP:  Buy packs of three, 15″ screen protectors and cut to size unless you really want tempered glass protectors (in which case, you must buy die-cut protectors).

Since this tablet won’t have personal data on it (movie playback only), I don’t really care about the slow fingerprint reader.

SCORE:  8.5  If Teclast had been honest about “128GB support”, the score would have been close to 10 for budget, 10″ tablets.  It would need USB-C 3.1 Gen 2 to get a 10, however.

My unit (from Bangood, 12 days, order to delivery, air parcel register) arrived with adaptive charger and cable.  No OTA updates yet above Android 7.0.  Out of the box, the Android Security Update is April 05, 2017.  See also https://forum.xda-developers.com/general/general/teclast-master-t10-thread-t3722138

Recommended apps:  Total Commander, XPlayer, GBoard.  I could not turn off keyboard sounds using “Android Keyboard”, the default keyboard app. but I could with GBoard.  Plus, I run GBoard on all my Android devices since it switches between CN, JP, and KR input methods easily, and has swipe entry.

IMO, Chuwi will need to price the Hi9 Air below $300, and support (i) 256GB ex-FAT or NTFS and (ii) US/EU LTE bands, to sway buyers in the 2560×1600 10″ market, esp. those that don’t mind using a smartphone to provide OTA Internet.

I hope my T10 lasts longer than my X98.  Teclast has certainly gained ground vs. its Shenzen competitors in value and quality; longevity remains to be seen.  Chuwi’s Hi9 has moved past Alldocube, and the Hi9 Air will lengthen the lead.  Teclast will need to move past the MTK8176 class to stay close to Chuwi.

[Kris Backs]

For anyone that had this issue, I’ve seen it elsewhere but never saw a workable solution for my phone(s). Basically on both an old Xperia Z and on an Axon 7 I could not connect to the RC component of the Mi Drone. I was able to connect with USB however.

Simply turning off the data for the phone did the trick. Turning data back on afterwards seems to do no harm, but I’ve yet to try this while in the field… The temperatures are still a bit low for the batteries.

I hope this helps someone.

Kris

 

[Kris Backs]

I need to followup on this thread because I’ve got the goods now and I’m fairly impressed (with Xiaomi AND GearBest). Due to the Chinese New Year, my package sat for two weeks untouched. I had planned to purchase from Banggood this time because I had one or two less than stellar transactions with GB. However the prices rose daily and instead of purchasing, I began kicking myself for not taking the plunge when the prices were actually quite a large amount less. That’s when I reached out here.

Chris G. – the stand-up guy he is, offered a great coupon which brought the price into my range. Without too much hesitation I ordered the Mi Drone 4K along with the protective blade guards as well as the Gimbal handle.

I expected all this to arrive with the sun another month down the road. I was delighted to find that, not only was it fast, DHL didn’t hold it hostage (avoided the US I guess).

All told I am really digging the gear, but have one issue. Connecting to the WiFi is not working correctly. I get the error ‘please connect to relay WiFi’

I have an old Xperia that does connect to the gimbal handle, but not to the RC unit.

My Axon 7 won’t even do that. Plugging in the USB tethering option works fine however, well enough that in my upstairs studio it manages to get a strong connection to GPS having left the props off I had an “All systems are go!” moment.

Does anyone know how to get beyond the WiFi connection issues I am having? I’ve seen others on other forums asking the same question but the answers simply aren’t there.

BTW, I’ve read some people wondering what comes with the unit re: USB or WiFi dongle, blade guards etc.

At this time, GearBest lists their contents as including  1 x Quadcopter ( Battery Included ), 1 x Transmitter, 1 x Camera, 1 x Charger, 1 x English Manual.

What I received was not quite the same;

No instructions whatsoever (oops, correction. I did receive a well laid out, though slightly breifer version of the English language manual which I had downloaded and printed needlessly)

WiFi Dongle

USB Dongle

North American plug battery charger. I fully expected otherwise as I thought I saw it listed as a CN plug.

To wrap up – very happy with it. Anxious for better weather, hoping to overcome this WiFi bug soon.

Thank you Chris for your help purchasing this- I must reiterate that supporting this site is important, I’ve tried however and clicking the Paypal donate buttons only take me to PayPal – no specifics on the recipient are shown and the transaction stalls. Help me help you :-}

Sincerely

Kris B.

[Fabio]

Same problem with my v6… Left USB randomly disconnect, plus, when I have a device connected on left USB, my wifi seems stop work… I mean, it still say I’m connected to it, but browser won’t load any page etc…

Any hint? I bought this laptop for my father, I don’t want so many problems, especially because we have only 2 usb ports… And one it’s used for mouse…